TheStig

Good stuff.

Here's 2 additional good tips:

(1). Jam the brake lever fully depressed / pulled. As it closes the path for fresh fluid to pass through the master cylinder this stops all the brake fluid leaking out of the reservoir and means you can easily bleed fresh fluid into the line before re-fitting the banjo bolt. Much easier & less time consuming than letting all the fluid out and starting from a system full of air. 

(2). Use a fine brass brush on the end of a dremmel to clean the recesses where seals are located. It'll take off any gunk without scratching the surface. Much easier & better results than trying to scratch the dried up crap out with a toothpick, etc.

Ah yes, sorry - I must've been seeing double!
Anyways, I'm sure you've seen it, but there's an underslung kit available for the hawk that might work on VFR's too. Something I shall research more: http://www.hawkgtforum.com/forum/forum/honda-hawk-gt-bros-discussions/general-discussion/25919-hawk-forum-custom-made-parts-thread

Fantastic looking hawk you have there anyways - congratulations.

Excellent. I learnt something new today. Thanks!

Looks better with the sprocket carrier flipped too. Currently working on a similar conversion, although I'm temped (sorely!) by Dymag carbon wheels - which is the main reason for the conversion...
BTW, the Bros / Hawk swingarm looks a lot like the VFR750's as far as brake mounting is concerned. How did you make the brake underslung?

That's a nicely done Hawk, indeed. Did you turn the NC35 sprocket carrier around the wrong way? Looks better that way, gives me further ideas for a project in motion. Thanks for the idea!

You probably don't want to be stretching your cables. You can buy 3 inch longer cables for your VFR from www.convertibars.com - just go to the VFR750 kit's section and you'll find them there. $59.95 I think... I bought a set last week.