hvfrdave

How the hell, people get 12,000 miles out of a motorcycle tyre beats me, I think the PR4's in the wet are really good, but millage, cupping on the front tyre starts at 4,000 miles, and at that point the rear is just starting to square off, which at that point I change the tyre anyway. 4,000 max for me.

Same. But I try to remember people commute on these things, and buy twinkies at the store. Mine is only used for aggressive sport riding so my tires never last that long. I just replaced the tires on my VFR and I think the last set was 2XXX miles. The rear was shot, and the front was cupping.

I agree, I normally only get between 2-2500 miles out of a rear tyre, but I have to admit, I did get 4,000 out of a PR4 rear tyre. But I did not have the same feel as the Dunlop, give me grip over millage any day.

How the hell, people get 12,000 miles out of a motorcycle tyre beats me, I think the PR4's in the wet are really good, but millage, cupping on the front tyre starts at 4,000 miles, and at that point the rear is just starting to square off, which at that point I change the tyre anyway. 4,000 max for me.

Go round corners more

(I'm joking, I'm joking!)

You obviously don't know me.

How the hell, people get 12,000 miles out of a motorcycle tyre beats me, I think the PR4's in the wet are really good, but millage, cupping on the front tyre starts at 4,000 miles, and at that point the rear is just starting to square off, which at that point I change the tyre anyway. 4,000 max for me.

As I said on another forum, I think you have been out in the Sun too much.

_{My Yorkshire sheep shaggers riding buddys over hear in Canada call my Viffer a couch}

Well do you know, there are the one's that talk about it, and there are the one's that can actually do it, regardless of what name or model is on the motorcycle.

you cant beat a bit of right wrist action can ya Dave

Well it certainly served me well over the years.

As I have said many times before, the T/Control on the VFR1200 is pants, compared to everything else out there. I would rather trust my right wrist than that antiquated system.

Snap their hands off, at that price. And yes I agree, I would ask for a new set of tyres. See what you can negotiate on the deal.

No John, it does not matter which model you have, but its only some bikes that suffer with this, I personally have not had a issue with mine, I tend to remove the pads every 4,000 miles, and give the pistons and callipers a good clean, seems to work for me.

Don't worry, not my first large capacity bike...but thanks for the heads up :)

Any ideas on the calipers? I'd rather swerve creating yet another thread....I'm wondering if the binding is just the 2010 model that's affected really

Hi john, thanks for the heads up, what the fook happened there I don't know, but you could be right on your first thought. What I was trying to print in the first place was. On your first test ride, just hold on, because you will have a lot more get up and go. But be careful on our cold and greasy roads, its maybe not the best time of year to feel the full potential of the Z-bomb.

It turned up today, I'll plug it in tomorrow as the weather is due to pick up and see how it goes.

Did you mean to put something in reply there matey? haha :)

While I have you, can you confirm if the caliper seizing issue is a year specific issue? If I can pick up a later model pair of calipers, I will - can't be arsed constantly cleaning the calipers and spraying them down with various mixtures to try and keep the most important part of the bike from killing me randomly.

Either you've gone mental or you need to click the little switch to go back to BBCode Mode! This happens to me on occasion, I quote someone and I can't type anything.

It turned up today, I'll plug it in tomorrow as the weather is due to pick up and see how it goes.

Did you mean to put something in reply there matey? haha :)

While I have you, can you confirm if the caliper seizing issue is a year specific issue? If I can pick up a later model pair of calipers, I will - can't be arsed constantly cleaning the calipers and spraying them down with various mixtures to try and keep the most important part of the bike from killing me randomly.

It turned up today, I'll plug it in tomorrow as the weather is due to pick up and see how it goes.

Got to agree with that, Sheene could do a lot more than just ride a bike very well, he had loads of self belief, personality, and most of all charisma. Not like most of the top riders these days, a right set of miserable bar-stewards. well maybe one exception, Rossi.

Why oh why be concerned about the corrosion, its only surface rust, the problem with the shaft is the UJ, nothing else. Blimey if you think that's rusty, you should have a look underneath a British car, if you think that props bad.

So, can anyone give me a yes/no answer then - will the Z-bomb at all fuck with a/f ratio - as far as I'm concerned it's just telling the bike it's in another gear, so should be of no consequence. Right?

The Z-bomb, was one of the first mods I did on the VFR1200F, way before I de-cated the bike. The Z-bomb did not and does not interfere with the fueling. The Z-bomb transforms the acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, as I have said many a time, by far the best value for money modification you will ever spend on your VFR1200.

I did a valve check at 17,500 miles, no problems, all within tolerance.

Is it a terribly difficult job to perform? Do I need to set aside a whole day and 10 hours, or am I looking at a pre-superbowl maintenance check?

Checking the valves themselves, is the easy part. Its all the work you have to do, before the valve check, that takes the time, then you have to reassemble the bike after the valve check.

The fueling on the later bikes, are far better than the fueling on the 2010-11 model. Honda addressed this by modifying the header pipes, and also the fueling map. The later model also has more bottom end, not a lot more, but enough for me to notice. The later model also runs a lot smoother at low revs. I would still fit the Z-bomb though, it would certainly give you more get up and go.

z bomb doesn't do anywhere near what the Reflash does.....i've tried them all....

suit yourselves......i thought the same thing, being that i had the z bomb and Z-Fi on my 2010 for 30,000 mile, i felt, well at least i'll have the gear position indicator back...i didn't think the overall difference would be much.....i was shocked by how much better the bike functioned overall with the reflash.....but...suit yourselves

For fook sake, the Z-bomb only does what it is suppose to do, and that is to override the restrictions in 1st and 2nd gear, it is not a fuel module. The Guhi re-flash is a totally different kettle of fish. Instead of knocking the Z-bomb, how about having like for like for fook sake.

There is nothing wrong with the Z-bomb, as I said earlier.

i've ridden flashed and unflashed back to back.....the overall rideability is greatly improved with the reflash....on/off throttle response is perfect....it's not about the power....it's about perfect fueling.....stock is nowhere close

the z bomb is a bandage.....

the reflash is a cure

Do the same thing, though. So hardly a bandage.

How much are Z-bombs in the UK? I can't seem to find a price, only US$ prices on Ebay

I use to give a lot of advice on this forum, but for what ever reason, it was thrown back in my face, so I just don't bother as much now.

On the gear indicator display, it only shows 3rd 4th 5th and 6th, but its not really a issue, you still have the neutral light indicator, I have never found it to be a problem.

Is that just with the Z-bomb?

Yes, with the Z-bomb, but its the best value for money, you will ever spend on the VFR1200.

On the gear indicator display, it only shows 3rd 4th 5th and 6th, but its not really a issue, you still have the neutral light indicator, I have never found it to be a problem.

As already been said many times before, this is not over, by any means, As regards to Rossi kicking Marquez, after watching the footage over and over again, Rossi pushed Marquez away from him with his Knee and thigh, a natural reaction, which I think most of us would of done the same thing. However Rossi's biggest mistake was letting his mouth go before the race, all that should of been sorted between both Honda's and Yamaha's Management, and if need be Dorna. I am really concerned for both riders safety, when the season kicks off, [pardon the pun].

Whilst I have been tempted by the re-flash, I am still struggling to find a reason to do it. As you imply yr going to do, get it, ride it and then make decisions.

I'm with you on that one Skids, the only advantage of the reflash over the Z Bomb is the gear indicator working properly , so it's a lot of money and a risk in posting your ECU just for that.

The beauty of having a separate fueling module is, you can always adjust the A/Fuel to whatever Air Filter, Exhaust set up you have, by either downloading another map to suite, or preferably getting a Taylor made map on a dyno with a technician that knows what he is doing.

I guess the why they(MotoGP officials) would not let Honda release the Honda telemetry . Come on boys face the facts.

http://www.motorcyclenews.com/sport/motogp/2015/october/honda-data-shows-crash-caused-by-rossi-kicking-marquez-brake-lever/

Yes I have also read this, but that still does not prove that Rossi Knee applied the front brake, not forgetting of course that all Motogp bikes have a front brake protector.

I don't believe this sh*t is still going on, how can anyone come up with such a stupid statement, that Rossi put Marquez's front brake on, get a life for fook sake.