Dae

I'm assuming 2012+ VFR engine will work in a 2010 model. Sad fact about VFR models, not a big seller around the globe, only 36 VFR1200 (F & FD) sold since 2010 here in Korea. Selling is not an option here in Korea, anything over 50,000KM (motorcycle) is considered scrap metal.

Happy 2017 to all.

I have 2010 VFR 1200 FD and have over 200,000KM on it so far, only rode about 2,000 KM in 2016. There is nothing wrong with the bike but with this much mileage, one never knows when the engine may quit.

Would a 2012 plus engine fit work on the 2010 model? I was just curious for future reference. 2012 model has traction control and larger fuel tank.

I purchased a 2016 Yamaha FJR 1300 and am glad I kept the VFR, for me the VFR is far superior for my riding situations.

I guess that the Korean market gets the European destination bike. It has mud flaps, heat shield on the muffler and all the body panels match up to one color. I have 5 owners manual in different languages. 

Took Delirvry of the 2016 FJR today, it took them about 4 hours to assemble the bike. Had Piaa dual horn, taller windscreen and Givi rack installed. It was almost start of rush hour and now have 2 miles on the fjr. 

A friend of mine has a 2007 Triumph Tiger 1050, he only has 5,000 miles, obviously not a daily rider. Depending on how much you ride, look for the freshest/newest you can get hold of, rubber degrades over time.

I haven't had any charging issues and have volt meter installed, always shows 14.2-4 volts while the engine is on. Yes my shaft drive failed at 93,000Km back in July of 2013. Had the recall done earlier this year and Honda has reimbursed me about $2,000 dollars for my troubles. As far as valve adjustments done it twice,I just handed my keys to the mechanic and he said valves were done. I'm not technical enough to know, even if someone explained it to me. Both times when the valves were supposedly adjusted, I had the throttle body cleaned along with new spark plugs, yes the bike did run better after the service. Can't tell why the bike ran better because of valves or other service that was performed at the time. I will take delivery of Yamaha 2016 FJR 1300 today and will watch them unbox/uncrate it. I will keep the VFR, how much could I have gotten for a bike with 200,000KM and I have sentimental feeling after riding it all these years. I feel VFR & FJR is different enough that I will alternate riding the machines. I will post photos later on this week after taking delivery of the FJR. Many thanks for informative tips, I have learned on this forum.

I have been in the USA for the past 5 weeks and looking forward to riding again back in Korea. When I get back to Korea, I will add 2016 Yamaha FJR 1300 and will alternate riding between the two machines.

I reached 200,000KM yesterday, VFR has served me well. Changed cam chain tensioner & chain, started making slight rattle on start up. The chain did not stretch very much. I will be getting 2016 FJR 1300 and will alternate riding between the 2 motorcycles.

My PR4s went on yesterday. Got 8163 miles out of the OEM Dunlops. Probably could have gone about another 500 miles.

And those PR4's came off today. I got 16540 miles out of them. Replaced by another set of PR4's. Great tires.

How much tread did you have left at 16,540 miles and what tire pressure were you running to get that kind of mileage? I'm on my 2nd set of PR4 and thought 12,000 miles was good.

Been there with you, bent my rotor on Katana 1100 back in the 90s. You can get a rubber cable that attaches to your disc lock and attach it to your handlebar.

ConerCarver, you have a good point about water drainage. No matter how waterproof MC clothes are, in heavy rainfall it always finds the weakest point and at times get wet. Weak points examples neck, sleeves, jacket not long enough etc.

Why oh why be concerned about the corrosion, its only surface rust, the problem with the shaft is the UJ, nothing else. Blimey if you think that's rusty, you should have a look underneath a British car, if you think that props bad.

I just don't want there to be corrosion. Starts to make weaker points in the shaft, more prone to cracking

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Yeah...surface corrosion so roughly -0.005 mm tops...this has to have a negative effect of your power and handling...-50HP rouglhy...uhmm....

Photo of the new one?

Pg. 3 post #24 (new part number)

At page 3 post #24 there is nothing. New part number where?

On post #23 there is the photo of a shaft identical to the old one.

In Europe Honda is stating that the new shaft is still not produced and they are installing the old one on bikes that have problems.

Yep, on German forum the reckon they already had a new version installed...but in other countries in EU Honda said - no new model before March.

The guy from page 3 had the OLD one installed - he cant have a new one as it was not even manufactured yet...as he posted that a month ago.

Not possible, sorry...

I said nothing about power loss. I'm saying fracturing of the shaft under pressure. I've seen a lot less do a lot of damage in my field of work, so let's not argue this. All I'm talking about is preventing this. I don't care how infinitesimal the pitting is, I want it corrected and prevented.

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I had mine done yesterday. I never looked under the bike but can now see where water may enter into the driveshaft. The driveshaft cover has small gaps between the swingarm and the cover itself. Maybe I will use duct tape around this area to prevent water from entering this area.

Come to the Netherlands............

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Word of warning... Timmay did swag of a female police officers blouse years ago, so do check the "content" carefully before committing.... :-)

I want to move to Netherlands, oh wait I'm only 5'11. When I see flight attendants from that part of of Europe they seem 6 foot +, I have no chance.

Some of you are scaring people from visiting Washington D.C. Any city in the world can be dangerous at night but during daytime you would be perfectly safe visiting any parts of District of Columbia.

I have Sena 10C, which has all the features of 20S but adds a camera. You can record phone conversation or music while recording video. The only negative is that it sticks out more than the 20S but it doesn't bother me. I like that both of the Bluetooth shows settings on Iphone and one can change settings on the phone.

Yesterday, I went out to start the bike, but I all got was series of clicking sound. Headlight was bright as well as the instrument panel. Took out the original battery (5+ years old), and took some measurement with a battery tester, using the AGM setting.

12.5 Volts, 100 CCA and state of health 53%.

Bought the same Yuasa battery from the Honda dealer, cost $140 and took some measurements.

12.49 volts, 250CCA, State of health 100% and 80% state of charge out of the box.

Put the new battery on the trickle charger and fully charged it, all the measurement went up except state of health but didn't record what the numbers were. After installing the battery, I don't remember the starter motor spinning so fast. Maybe my battery was the culprit of stalling issue at start up. The battery never gave me any symptom of getting weak before and always measured above 12.5 volts and it was a hard fail, I'm glad it failed at home.

Thank you Swimmer for those kind words. I tried to start the bike today and it idled fine from a cold start, maybe it was a one time thing. If it happens again I will try the negative battery disconnect before taking it in for service.

Honda Korea called today and apologized for any discomfort that I experienced from the shaft drive failure and said they will reimburse me fully including tow fee. Honda representative left me his name, contact phone # and email address and told me to call him if I had any questions. As mentioned in shaft drive post, mine failed in mid 2013. I sent him photos of the failed unit on my bike and they want to have a copy of payment I made thru my bank account to get the reimbursement.

I will try to go out for a ride later on this week, currently too much black ice, don't want to risk it.

Thank s to everyone for suggestions and kind words.

VFR 1200 DCT

Temperature in the Parking Garage 38F, After starting RPM is too (700) low and the bike dies. I took it out and bike died a few more times until 2 bars, in the temp gauge. I have a DCT model and can't open the throttle to raise the RPM in stopped condition. After it's warm up the bike idles fine. When I started out riding this morning the outside Temperature was -20 Celsius (-4 Fahrenheit). I noticed that after -4 Celsius the thermometer just shows two dashed line (- -) and doesn't read out temperature number.

What could be some of the cause for low RPM and bike dying on startup? I wish I had a manual bike in this condition at least that way, I can twist the throttle to keep the RPM up.

Sorry dude you have had a lot of problems out of this bike. I believe I would unload this bike (trade it ).

I have 187,397 KM currently and for the most part has been trouble free. I had two failure propeller shaft and brake light switch. With this kind of mileage who would buy it, maybe U.S $2500. Back in 2010 I paid north of $25,000, it makes more sense to just keep it, until it's ready to go to motorcycle heaven. I know I'm suppose to have used high octane fuel but only used 87 octane due to the limited availability once you leave major city limits. It runs great except for low rpm start up, hopefully Honda technician will diagnosis the problem.

Most likely a bad ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) - the computer uses the value from the sensor to calculate cold start enrichment.

Thank You.

VFR 1200 DCT

Temperature in the Parking Garage 38F, After starting RPM is too (700) low and the bike dies. I took it out and bike died a few more times until 2 bars, in the temp gauge. I have a DCT model and can't open the throttle to raise the RPM in stopped condition. After it's warm up the bike idles fine. When I started out riding this morning the outside Temperature was -20 Celsius (-4 Fahrenheit). I noticed that after -4 Celsius the thermometer just shows two dashed line (- -) and doesn't read out temperature number.

What could be some of the cause for low RPM and bike dying on startup? I wish I had a manual bike in this condition at least that way, I can twist the throttle to keep the RPM up.

I should have kept the failed shaft drive but tossed in the trash last year. I hope the dealer let's me into the work area and see if I can see if their is any difference in the new unit.

Mine failed over 2 years ago and cost me $2000 in repair cost, I wish the recall came out earlier.

I just got my recall notice, in it there is a provision and form for owners who have had theirs repaired to get reimbursed. Check that out. Of course my notice came from American Honda, so you will have to get the notice and reimbursement form perhaps from the dealer who sold you the bike.

I contacted Honda Korea, they said shaft propeller should come into dealerships in Korea starting in Mid February 2016. I will get reimbursement for any work done to the shaft drive prior to the recall.

Korea only sold 36 VFR 1200 F & FD before taking out of it's lineup after 2012.

First of all hallo to every one !

New guy here, owned 3 vfrs so far, the advice found here was invaluable when I ran into technical difficulties, big thank you.

The heated gloves / grips issue:

I use both.

When temp is above 5 degrees C I use the grips and a relatively good pair of winter gloves.

Not sure about other models but my heated gloves are a bit thicker and they don't give me a very good feel for the controls.

When the temp is below 5 and going for a longer ride then I tend to use the heated gloves.

Personally I'd try first the heated grips and if you want more heat then try the heated gloves as they tend to me more expensive also.

Hope this helps.

Ps

I've really enjoyed reading the Scottish winter post, funniest thingies read today :)

Agree. Heated grips just don't cut it for me when temps are below 40F (~5C) and the ride is longer than 30 min. Heated grips are way better than nothing, but below 40 for any length of time I use my Warm&Safe (aka FirstGear) gloves, love them. Heat all over, not just on the palms.

Warm n Safe gloves heats only on the finger nail side ( top of the hands where you're exposed to all the wind. If you have wiring on the palm area, it would eventually break and leave you with no heat. Just came back from a 1 hour ride on my scooter -7C here in Seoul, Korea. I have both heated gloves and grip and I was toasty warm. If I use heated grips only, my hands will freeze due to the exposed parts of hand in the wind but with heated gloves it's all good.

Dae, there's no mention of mileage being a factor in the Australian recall paperwork so there probably wont be in the Korean either.

Are you going to ask about refunds for previous failures?

I should clarify that I had 1 U-Joint failure. In the recall notice, it states that I can get reimbursement for work done relating to shaft drive unit. Motorcycle.com has a good description and illustration on what parts failed in the driveshaft.

http://blog.motorcycle.com/2015/12/30/manufacturers/honda/2010-2013-honda-vfr1200f-recalled-for-driveshaft-issue/

This is my original post back in 2013.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75671-failed-final-driveshaft/

I just received my recall letter from Honda Korea. The recall is good for 5 years, recall starts on 2-15-2016. I have over 187,000 KM, could I be denied due to high mileage? My Shaft Drive failed (U-Joint) over 2 years ago and If they replace it with a new unit this will be the 3rd one.