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fastbroshi

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Posts posted by fastbroshi

    Fuel petcock filter is trash. How to replace?

    in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's

    Posted

    After some more looking, it appears the '97-'98 Blackbird petcocks have an identical base to the VFR's.  The outside is much different, but compare the base in this link to the base of my petcock above:

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16950-MBB-642?gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAr8eqBhD3ARIsAIe-buMLcc0849cy69Jp2TGBxd2vogww_dy_pZGjRKI8oVmf-6V9_jvsQKoaAlwaEALw_wcB

     

    I'm convinced the filter for this petcock would work, but I can't find a separate one just yet and I don't want to spend over $200 to test my theory.

     

    Does anyone have a spare carb'ed Blackbird petcock just lying around?

    Fuel petcock filter is trash. How to replace?

    in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's

    Posted

    On 11/11/2023 at 1:18 AM, Dutchy said:

    On the 4th gen (never owned a 3rd gen) this switch is located under the tank, so unlike the VF500F's (which is on the LHS of the tank and has ON//OFF/RES), you only switch the 4th Gen's to OFF if you want to remove the tank.

     

    NRP in the UK sells

    https://nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/search&search=vfr750

     

    The inlinle  "strainer" you could replace with an external filter, or leave it out altogether.

     

    Dutchy, I will look at that petcock and verify if it interchanges.  If so Honda needs to update their parts diagram supercede #!

     

    My current plan, if the VF500 version isn't viable, is to break off the remaining filter plastic, leaving just the base.  This appears that it will still seal when seated properly with a new o-ring.  I'm going to take some stainless pipes and cut them to length to mimic the height of the plastic filter's cylinders.  Cut windows in them and cover with stainless mesh, epoxy in place.  Mate the pipes to the plastic base with epoxy, being careful to not mount too deep and keeping total height in mind.  Cap the pipes with stainless plugs.  

     

      If I had a lathe I wouldn't have to use the original plastic base and just turn it out of stainless, drill two holes for the tubes, etc.  But I have no practical lathe experience either lol.

     

    On 11/11/2023 at 9:12 AM, jefferson said:

    Attack of the ethanol demons.

    Precisely.  The bike hasn't had a full tank ran through it in over 5 years.

     

     

    7 hours ago, JZH said:

    The petcock is interesting.  I'm not 100% sure about the 4th gens, but Honda used the same petcock on all 3rd gens, whether they had the US-style "no reserve" or the ROW's remote reserve switch (but no low fuel light).  (The "MT4" on the strainer tube suggests that the part is the same across all 3rd and 4th gens, however.)  The difference at the petcock was in the knob used: the US-spec knob goes from OFF to ON, with RES being blocked. 

     

    The difference between ON and RES is simply which inlet is directed to the petcock's output.  But that only works when the OEM fuel strainer tubes are fitted, which make the ON inlet effectively a couple of inches higher than the RES inlet within the fuel tank.  So, on non-US-Spec bikes, when the switch is ON and the fuel level drops to the level of the ON inlet on the strainer tube, the engine sputters--prompting the rider to turn the switch to RES (ideally in one swift move without breaking stride)--which then allows the RES inlet at the bottom of the tank feed the remaining fuel in the tank to the carbs.

     

    US-spec bikes only use one of the inlets (the RES, which is the lower one), which means that if your OEM fuel strainer tube falls to bits all you really need to do is fit a strainer/mesh to the RES inlet on the petcock and you'll have "full US-spec" functionality again.  Or don't fit anything and rely on your fuel filter?  (Not what I would suggest!)

     

    However, the petcock itself might be past its prime, but it can be rebuilt using common o-rings.  Drill out the two rivets and tap the holes for M4 (I think it was--whatever is smallest that allows threads to be tapped).  NRP in the UK sells dedicated rebuild kits, but any o-rings (which fit) can be used in a pinch.  Unlike earlier petcocks which use special-sized seals, this model only uses round ones.  With some trial and error, and a good selection of fuel-resistant o-rings in different sizes, you can rebuild these petcocks to again function perfectly.

     

    Ciao,

    JZH

    Thankfully the o-rings appear to only seal the on/off knob's shaft.  Those are not leaking.  After I cleaned out all of the sulfur looking powder, I was able to verify it still seals properly when turned off and flows when on.

     

    '97 VFR, carbs overflowing after rebuild

    in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's

    Posted

    Hey guys, I'm trying to verify I have all my hose connections in the right place, but I'm not sure what this one is?  After looking at the manual I think its an atmosphere vent?  If not, what is it supposed to connect to?  After a bit of cranking my carbs are overflowing a bit and I'm not sure I have them all connected correctly.  Not sure if I'm going to have to take them back off to verify my floats are moving.

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    AYrVlTFl.jpg

    My Uni filter just crumbled, more or less

    in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's

    Posted

    Hey Guys,

     

      My '97 has been sitting for a while and I decided to get it running, seems the carbs were a bit clogged and it wouldn't start.  Popped them off, checked the bowls, cleaned out the jets, etc.  Got it to start again after I got it all back together.  I warmed it up on the choke, and after I took it off it would run, albeit a little rough.  I figured she just needed to clear her throat.  I let it run a little while longer and shut her off.  That was 2 months ago. 

      Now keep in mind I've not started her up for 6 months before and she was able to clear the phlegm and get running while after I topped off the battery. 

      I went in the garage last week to get her started and she would only run on choke.  I thought, hmm surely they can't be clogged again?  There was no junk in the bowls that may have been disturbed to clog anything back up (I wiped them out real well before disassembling). 

      I go back in today, resigned to the fact that they need to come off again.  Lo and behold, after I got the airbox apart I got to looking at the air filter and the damn thing would come apart from rubbing your hands on it.  I oiled it down with what was I thought to be the right oil, but maybe I went applied it with a  heavy hand?  Anyway, not sure if that's ever happened to anyone before.  This bike was running a bit hot the first couple years which has since been addressed.  But surely the heat couldn't have been that bad that it compromised the filter like this?  I don't know. 

      Luckily there were no chunks missing that may have been ingested by the motor.  Just an fyi on my experience with the Uni filter.

    4Th Gen - What Size Are The Taillight Ground Spades?

    in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's

    Posted · Edited by fastbroshi

    My friend pointed out I had a taillight out and upon inspecting the bulbs were ok, I found a broken connection on one of these on my '97 750. Anyone know what specific size I should get at the store as a replacement? Thanks in advance guys. I really need the bike to be tip top for the trip to Barber's this year.

    Here's a pic of the broken spade.

    Dream Big,

    Tim

    [/url]">http://http://s412.photobucket.com/user/fastbroshi/media/NCM_0053_zps7705bbda.jpg.html'>NCM_0053_zps7705bbda.jpg

    God, what a sound! Thanks VFRD

    in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's

    Posted

    I read that you had to do the carbs multiple times with the Simple Green. I've had a lot of success with it over the years soaking for about an hour max, then scrubbing, dunking a couple more times, rinsing with water, and blowing all the orifices dry with the rubber tipped nozzle (pressurized via compressor of course). The jets are the usual culprits, given how teeny the orifices are.

    LED turn signal help NEEDED

    in Electrical

    Posted

    please get rid of those resistors.they make having leds totally pointless.

    You say to get rid of them but U dont say why or what to do instead?

    There abouts to you think i should try to install them before or after the relay...in the front or rear signals???????

    Coderider is on a 06 and i beleive they have different light setups. Not sure his will be much help.

    Lots of folks change to led's not for the aesthetic, but to save some amperage they're using. With older bikes like my CB550, changing to leds can save several amps over the stock bulbs which is pretty signifigant. On the newer bikes not so much. If you get the led's and wire in the resistor, you just cancelled out any amperage savings you would've had with the bulbs alone. Using the led rated flasher can fix this, I THINK.

    Name that shock

    in Suspension

    Posted

    So did you figure it out?

    Yes, I started comparing shocks that were listed as 929 and 954 on ebay, turns out this one is a 954, and wouldn't be suitable to the 4th Gen from what I recollect.

    Clunking in Front end

    in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's

    Posted

    I was able to get in there and work on it today. Looks like the bearings were in fact loose. After I took off the top triple and the top nut was just sitting there, I could spin it with my fingers. Is this correct? I spun it off and tightened up the bottom one a little and put the top back on. Put the triple back on, slid the legs back up in there and torqued everything down. Took it for a ride around the block and the clunking is gone.

    I'm probably going to get some tapered bearings for in the future just in case. Thanks for all the replies fellas.

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