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Roebling3

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Posts posted by Roebling3

  1. If you go to the ironbutt site I believe they have links to fuel tank fabricators who specialize in motorcycles, including adding a 'spacer'.

    The FJR mentioned earlier may have been *John Ryans'. His fuel tank was similarly modified.

    Years ago I used a bladder cell inside the tank bag. Tubing to the non-pressurized side of the fuel return line (not a VFR). IIRC it carried a bit more than a gallon and was enough for a frequent trip @ the time. the bladder didn't need a vent. A laptop provided pressure. A hemostat was the valve..

    A really long time ago I extended a bmw airhead tank by cutting the original tank straight down ~3" behind the fuel cap and within an inch of the bottom. Then horizontally back over the fuel taps, then straight down again. With another matching tank I adjusted the cuts to make the final tank ~ 3 inches longer. It worked well, and looked 'factory', but was not worth the headaches.

    We each assess our risks. I would not use a fuel tank as a push bar for the next fool that rear ends me.

    *If you've not heard of John Ryan You'll find information on the Iron Butt site regarding John's many record setting long distance motorcycle trips.

    October 13th marks the date that John, riding his FJR, was hit from behind and killed. A rather good book was written about John by Melissa Holbrook Pierson. It is titled; "The Man Who Would Stop at Nothing". ca 2011 w.w. norton & company. Ms. Pierson also wrote; "The Perfect Vehicle". ca 1997. again w. w. Norton.

  2. Metallican525, others: I believe Hondas' and other manufacturers concern regarding the re-use of bolts is relative to bolt stretch under prescribed torque values. when used the 1st time the bolts are resilient and in many instances do not need thread locker or lock washers. When bolts are used the 2nd and subsequent times they harden and no longer provide the inherent tension of a new bolt. Good fortune, R3~

  3. I used a 2L fuel bladder in the tank bag for a night time run I did occasionally. Fuel was either not always available or I would rather not stop. Connecting the line from the bladder to a 'T' on the return fuel line to the tank, after the back pressure valve worked fine. A Hemostat was the on/off. My lap top in the tank bag, did some pressurizing. After ~100 miles open the Hemostat. R3~

  4. I'm late in here. Has anyone suggested looking through the Iron Butt website? I believe there's a link to 1 or 2 companies with stock models and custom work. The FJR mentioned was perhaps the late John Ryan's. At his services yesterday there was a serious contingent of Long Distance motorcyclist's, plus a commensurate number of custom tanks. BTW: 2 very good looking 5th Generation VFR's were there.

    When I used to run longer miles, in the dark, a 4 liter fuel bag in the tank bag with a lap top pressurizing it, worked great. I tapped into the unpressurized side of the fuel return and used a hemostat as a valve. Good fortune, R3~

    BTW: That 'thing' carrying flammable liquid and hanging off the back at bumper level, scares the beejeesus out of me. And a fuel tank at tail trunk ;level is hardly better. You don't ever want to be in a liquid fueled fire.

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  5. There are many brands and sources for Cyanoacrylate glues. And there are many types: ranging from industrial grades to those approved for surgeries. Thin, water like versions cure fastest. Thicker versions cure slower. There is even a flexible version. Beware of toxic affects and less than desired reactions when used with certain materials. It seems to react/cure fastest when contacting powders and dust. i.e. sanding or sawdust, 'baking soda'. You will typically find the cured CA surface much harder than surrounding material. IIRC CA glues were invented by Eastman Chemicals div. of Eastman Kodak, perhaps in the late 60's. I think it was called Eastman 610? Search www.bsi-inc.com and Frank Tiano Enterprises. Good fortune, R~

  6. I put the aluminum pegs on my 5G. Couldn't believe how inexpensive they were @ H-D. IIRC < 40 bux the pair. You're aware you need to do a bit of metal removal on the new pegs so they will be at a proper angle? I also had to shim the Uly pivot holes. The bore is larger than the VFR pivot pin diameter. You can get the proper tube sizes in aluminum or brass. I sleeved 2 tubes, one inside the other, to get the best fit. The tube can be found at hobby/craft shops and some hardware stores. Good fortune, R~

  7. Stainless Steel wool is what you need - regular steel wool will just rust away in a day or two.

    I've not tried this but heard it's very good in terms of sound mellowing and long term endurance:

    http://www.anvilfire.com/sales/k_index.htm

    Another source for high temperature insulation material is McMaster-Carr. www.mcmaster.com

    Wrap your headers? Pack your exhaust can? Wrap your turkey fryer for off season work? B~

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