Ryanme17

I want to congratulate everyone on their decency and maturity, 7 pages of pictures before everyone got to see my underwear (Man, I'm glad I wore underwear that day!)

awesome. thanks for the tips! I have one more question though.

Where do you guys actually connect either like the straps or the cargo net. like what do you hook it to. I havent actually tried for myself yet, but just looking around I didnt see much to hook it to.

There are plenty of places to strap a cargo net to. Grab handles, mounting hardware for your hardbags, footpegs, etc. If you don't see any place for it, you aren't looking.

But I don't understand where you're strapping stuff to if you already have a tailbag. If it's a motorcycle specific tailbag it will already have it's own mounting system and it will occupy your tail section...

I wouldn't recommend pushing them. Those tires go downhill FAST.

Yoshi,

There will be a 15yr old waiting for you.....

Just hang in there ;-)

Dutchy, they have to be 18 over here in the United States...

Dave, if you take that route you'll be tracing my steps. I'm currently in Newport... Watch for back-ups between Berea and Corbin, and some construction on 25E. Kind of slabby. My choice would be to head South first than take yhe Dragon in. Just be careful because 75I S is closed at the TN border.

I'm trying to make plans now, whether I should go to Franklin tonight or not. Is there a group ride tomorrow morning?

616 970 4745

I'm arriving a day ahead of my reservation (and the room I'm splitting with Chuckster). Anyone want to split a room for tonight to save some cash?

I'll be in tomorrow!

Should be identical.

I've had good luck with the Yuasa battery that is for the ST1300. It is a bit smaller, and has more cranking amps. Others have had good luck with other battery brands.

Here's another twist to this topic: Nickel Plating.

That's an interesting idea! If anyone is interested in learning about metal coatings and corrosion resistance, here is an interesting article:

http://www.byo.com/stories/projects-and-equipment/article/indices/20-build-it-yourself/1149-metallurgy-for-homebrewers

It was written in reference to a brewing environment, but applies to all metals.

Here's the opening paragraph to whet your appetites:

"Corrosion

All corrosion is basically galvanic (that is, related to electrical currents that are induced when two metals are in contact with an electrolyte). While this statement may be an overgeneralization, it helps explain how and why corrosion occurs. The electrochemical difference between two adjacent metals creates a battery. If there is an electrolyte present, such as water or beer, then an electric current will flow and the more active of the two metals will ionize. These metal ions will readily combine with oxygen to form oxides or other corrosion products. Corrosion can also occur between two adjacent areas on the same piece of metal, if the presence of dirt, a chemical or a scratch can make the two areas seem electrically different from each other."

Now, back on topic...

Am I the only one who thinks making a bike harder to see is a bad idea?

Snakeskin? I just had a heart attack!

Those covers look alright, but need some paint. Anyway of getting screws with heads that are flush with the plate too?

Just gives it that cleaner look.

My 2 cents

I can paint them red. The material is so thin counter sunk screws wouldn't work, maybe one size smaller.

How about just sticking them in place? No screws at all.

Any suggestions?

Just one.

Check it again.

Many things can contribute to a single fill-up giving a bad mileage result.

Probably the most common is operator error, either in the math or not filling the tank to the same level for each time.

This seems likely to me. With only a 5 gallon sample, it's easy for your data to be off. You should average your readings over several fill-ups to be sure. If you filled it all the way to the neck one time, and didn't the next time it could be off. Or one pump was less accurate than another, it's easy to be off by 30%. And maybe you got bad gas. Maybe you're used to 100% gas and you got an ethanol blend.

I thought the quickshifter was activated by using a pressure switch mounted inside the shift lever mechanism? Having to push a button to quickshift kind of defeats the purpose, doesn't it?

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that the quickshifter only works with the PCIII.

From the website:

Bundling with Power Commander

Each Dynojet Quick Shifter Kit includes instructions and software that activates your Quick Shifter through your Power Commander III USB.

http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/products/quickshifter/powercommander_quick_shifter.aspx

The Michelin guy I've talked to at the track has always said 30/30 cold for his tires. However, I don't think he'd approve of using PR2's. While they are very grippy for a sport-touring tired, they really aren't designed for a high-heat application like a trackday. If you don't push it you'll be fine, but you'll be conscious of not pushing your tires and having less fun (unless taking it easy was the plan).

I would recommend calling the organization that is setting up your track day, getting in contact with their tire guy, and see what it would cost to have some more track-appropriate tires put on. A call can't hurt, and neither can a little caution.

Leather is always better than textile.

Are we talking 2011 TMAC pics?

Do you ever get the feeling that you are thread killer? It's like being the last one picked in a school yard ball game.

Mike,

This thread has died and been resurrected enough times that I'm not sure you've killed it. Each time it's resurrected I reflect back on it after however many months have passed. I am not yet convinced that you might not resurrect this thread yourself with tales of you out riding again. Even if it's only on a closed course at slower speeds.

Though I was uninjured (and therefore can't even begin to imagine what you've gone through these past few months), there were times I almost quit riding, but I am glad now that I stuck it out. I'm not ready to give up on you yet.

Hang in there. It's too soon to talk about riding now, but take it one step at a time. First the bathroom, then the world.

If you find this, please post it up. Maybe even pin it?

What are your thoughts on the headlights, are they bright enough?

Am I missing something? Did he change the headlights at all?

It doesn't reallly get much better than stock headlights on 6th Gen VFR's.

Another year later and I'm 10 times the rider that I used to be. It seems like a lifetime ago that I was so nervous and twitchy after the accident. I'm glad I had people's advice to take it slow and to work on technique. It was that working on technique that made me a better rider.

If I could go back and do it all over again, I would have done a track day sooner. I'm sure that would have made me a more confident (and less twitchy and therefore safer) rider. But hindsight is 20/20, and maybe I needed that time to work on technique before doing a track day. The Lee Parks Course, and going to another TMAC really made a big difference.

Not bad, but use $4,400OBO as his starting price and bargain from there.

I would not recommend the Pirelli Angels. I have had good luck with PR2's, however. I liked the original Road Attacks, until the PR2's came along and gave better grip and longer life.

Also check that it's not the side kickstand switch. Doesn't sound like it would be the problem, but something to check that follows the lines of the problem anyways.

This was my first thought when reading the thread title, but it could be the clutch switch as well.

Yes, any decent shop will have plenty of experience working with ABS plastic. Every car nowadays has plenty of plastic--almost always over the bumper, and this is the first part hit in an accident.