snoman181

I can see where this is going. Next will be a revival of the thread on how to keep the "boys" cool and comfortable under the tight padded bicycle undergarments. :goofy:

ps - let us know if they hit your fender while riding...

my concern exactly! great idea, but no matter what i do, my forks dive to with about 1/2" to 3/4" from hardstop, so i think i would hit those lights.. :fing02:

I agree. I have a set of HID lights that I was planning on mounting in the same fashion, but after taking some measurements with styrofoam and twist ties for safety, I realized that they would be crushed on the first hard stop. Worse, I would probably lose my lights and my fender.

I decided to mount them off the front fender bolts instead. I have all the hardware, just waiting until I get time to mount everything.

This is the jacket I bought

THis is the convertible jacket.

These are the pants I got

Convertible pants

Lookin' a little ghostly, judging from those pictures! http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/style_e...lt/rolleyes.gif

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/style_e...lt/rolleyes.gif

OOPS! I'm a dumb ass! I cut and pasted the wrong link!

I've edited it now. Thy this one:

Visor Scratch Repair and Prevention

I have an old visor from my Shark helmet with a few scratches, and one area in particular that's seemingly scratched beyond repair. At $79 a pop, I figured "What the heck, let's see what I can do." After all, I've already bought a replacement, so I have nothing to lose.

I started with a variety of plastic polishing compounds like Plexus and Novus with mixed results. I also tried a couple of products from my local bike shop that were guaranteed to "permanently and invisibly repair scratches in visors and windshields." Again, it's better, but not yet good enough that I can ride without looking through an annoying area that's a constant distraction.

Then I came across this:

Visor Scratch Repair and Prevention

I plan on giving it a try this weekend. I'll let you all know how it works out.

Unfortunately, I don't have any true "before" pictures, but I will take a couple of snaps of what I'm starting with and show the final results.

Anyone else tries this or have any other suggestions? I'm game to try anything on my old visor!

So here's the stuff I use:

RainX

I've used it for cars like the MG with notoriously poor wipers and had great success. It simply causes the rain to bead much like it does on a waxed surface, and the combination of the dispersed water droplets and increased run off improves visibility dramatically.

Perhaps the best solution would be a combination of RainX and a simple improvised backhand wiper.

Wow, that must have been a hassle mounting them upside down... shoulda check out Kanadian Ken's other product line... (mighta been before your time Skuut) :fing02:

Snoman, sorry it wasn't more helpful, but I am working on those templates for ya. :unsure:

Hey Seb, no worries! We've been getting nothing but rain here in Ontario pretty much on a daily basis. So far the viffer's only been taken out for short trips and bi-weekly washings. Gone are the days when I used 2-wheels for daily transit regardless of the forecast. I'm still interested in the templates whenever you get a chance.

Back on the topic of foot pegs, I've decided to look at a couple of sets of Buell pegs. N006.1AD (for XB models) and N0520.1AD (LH) & N0521.1AD (RH). Odd that the former are sold as a pair and the latter individually. It appears from my research that the only difference is the 006 pegs are positioned a bit further to the rear when installed. For the price, I may get both sets and then decide which I prefer.

Just to clarify, I'm not uncomfortable when I ride, but I seek to be more comfortable if possible. Make sense?

I'll provide more info after my trials and perhaps a set of spare pegs for sale.

Are there any standard geometries or measurements to determine the best ride position? I know the answer is probably "whatever makes you the most comfortable while still allowing full access to all controls in case of URH (Unforeseen Road Hazards - Includes inattentive cage drivers)." The reason I ask is that I installed Helibar risers last year and found they made a huge difference to my comfort due to the change in ride position. I am 6' tall and have been considering lowering the foot pegs. I don't feel terribly uncomfortable or fatigued after long rides, but I am curious to know if lowering the pegs would provide a more comfortable ride position.

Since there's probably no real way to find out other than to try the mod, I'm curious to have the opinions of the members in this community. If the consensus it to lower, then the next question is "how much?"

Are there any kits out there that provide a range, or are they all fixed distance, meaning you have to make the choice of how far to lower the pegs before ordering the kit?

Any recommended kits?

Thanks!

Troubleshooting 101.

First, you have to figure out if it's the light or the wiring. It the 2 lights are actually both single filament, and one is activated for the tail light and the other for brake light, simply swap light bulbs and see if the problem moves from tail light to brake light. If so, replace the dead bulb. If they are dual filament bulbs, you will be able to see 2 filaments when you look at the bulb. Often you can tell which one is burnt out just by looking closely at the bulb. Same is true for single filament bulbs, BTW. Hole it up to a good light source and give it a GENTLE shake. See if the filament moves or vibrates like it's not attached ot anything. If so... dead bulb.

If you get through the first part and the problem doesn't move from the tail light to the brake light when you swap bulbs, suspect wiring or contacts. sometimes a bit of moisture can get inside the tail light area and corrode the contacts. Make sure the contacts are clean and not full of gunk (anything like green or black that looks like powder or mold is BAD. It's not actually mold, but corrosion. Go to your local parts store and get some contact cleaner. Give it a spray and clean it up as best you can with several cotton swabs. Then get some emery cloth (sandpaper for metal), tear a small piece off, and GENTLY rub the contacts until they come up clean and shiny. You can also use a scratch or chip repair pencil made for paint chips on cars. Your local hardware store or auto supply place should have one. More expensive, but easier. Probably $10 as opposed to $2 for just the emery cloth.

If that doesn't work, go buy yourself a circuit tester from your local auto place. Don't get anything too fancy unless you plan on doing a lot of electrical work in the future. The low end devices are about $10 or $15 dollars and look something like a pencil with a light on one end and a metal spike coming out of the end with a wire and an alligator clip on the other end. Make sure it's compatible with the voltage supply on your bike. Usually this is 12 volts, but some older bikes are 6 volts. The light on the tester is usually just a flashlight bulb, so it will probably work on a 6 volt system, just won't be as bright. When you get home with your new tester, touch one end of the tester to one contact inside your tail light and the other to the other contact (usually one contact is at the bottom of the socket and the other on the side of the socket. Check both the tail light socket and the brake light while you press on the brake. Make sure you try both the rear brake and the front brake. Sometimes they have individual switches and you may be able to trace it down more quickly if it's a faulty switch.

If you've got this far, you should have been able to trace it down to either a brake light problem or a tail light problem and eliminated the possibility of a faulty brake switch. Next step is where things start to get messy. Do the easy step first. Check your fuses!! I've spent many hours tracing down a wiring problem before just to find it was a faulty fuse. DOH! Look in your owner's manual and try to see which fuse is for your brake circuit. Often it's a separate fuse just for that circuit. If so, replace it, but don't stop there. Fuses don't usually just wear out. They blow for a reason. Look at all your wiring to the tail light and break light to see if there's any obvious wear on the wires. Look for any spot that it's pinched or rubbing against a frame member or shape metal. Anything that looks suspect should be investigated closer. If you find a spot where it's damaged, put some electrical tape on it and you should be good.

The process can be tedious, but is really not that difficult. The other option is to let a service tech or mechanic do the same thing for about $60 per hour. As a side benefit, you get to learn more about your bike if you do it yourself.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck!

Like the tag line says... :fing02:

Where's the "low mileage" thread? I searched, but didn't find it. LOL

My '07 has 1600km on it. (1000 miles)

To be fair, I only had it for about a month last year before winter set in. Summer's just beginning here in the Great White North. Let the fun begin.

The inverted-tip causes the LEDs to emit a broad beam which avoids "spotlighting" the gauge face near where each bulb is located.

I don't think you would have any bright spots anyway. Interesting that if you look at the spec, you'll see the bulbs you chose have the narrowest beam pattern of all possible configurations. Only 32 degrees. I was more interested in the colour. I've just ordered some LEDs for my RWB 6th gen, and I ordered 2 different sets to compare colour and brightness. I'm planning on cluging up a dimmer when I do the surgery.

Of course, I'll do a write up with pics for anyone who's interested.