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Posts posted by mrmatt
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Welcome and congrats
Have you tried to start it? If it were me I would probably get too excited and charge the battery and see if it will go. You'll need to flush the fluids (clutch, brake, coolant, any old fuel, oil) but you might not even need to clean the carbs if it will start, if it runs rough then some Seafoam or something might clean it up (although, giving the carbs a good scrub will ensure a good running bike).
The carbs are a little tricky to get on and off, especially if the rubber boots have hardened up from sitting in the weather and being 15 years old. I think I usually set the back first and then the front, sometimes a rubber mallet if handy (or real hammer and a block of wood, be careful what you hammer on). Have any questions just ask, lots of folks here to help you out
Good luck, I love these bikes and have 2
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I might add to remember to keep yourself in a position where you can be seen, and know whose blind spot you're in. I was riding up to an intersection on a 4 lane highway that had the left turn lane filled with cars. I was in the left lane and my light was green but it occurred to me that no one turning left (coming from the other direction) could see me because of the line of cars. I thought of it just before I entered the intersection and sure enough there was a small car right in front of me, fortunately I was able to brake and swerve left around the back of their car. Ride like you're invisible but also give everyone the chance to see you
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Very nice, I have the same dream of putting an RC45 body on a 4th gen. This is as far as I made it though:
DSC02149.JPG
The subframe I'm planning to go with a CBR900 which is a much lighter aluminum one (not pictured)
I was having some problems with the clutch cover hitting the body, I finally got tired and chopped it out. I'll have to revisit that area to clean it up
DSC02150.JPG
Headlights are from Aztec8, I tried some CBR900 ones but they looked too small for the opening
then I switched back to the stock body so I could have something to ride...
Hopefully I can get back on it this fall, maybe do a couple engine mods too (hmm, scissor gears?)
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I'm interested in this as well, I've fitted a Triumph eccentric/hub/axle and Ducati rim to my '95 and just had to get someone to trim and rethread the axle and place some spacers to align everything. The Triumph axle will work with a 4th gen VFR hub (spacing is a little different), so I bet it would work with a VFR400 as well. If I can get an NC30 or 35 hub/sprocket carrier I can put it on my project bike and tell you if it works
Update on the NC30 carrier:
Found one and the mesh matches up to the Triumph axle, but it too far out to fit. The VFR and Triumph have the knurls/mesh close to the swingarm at the base (swingarm side) of the cush/sprocket carrier, but the NC30 sprocket carrier has the knurls at the top. I'll get some pics when I can but right now I don't think this route will work.
Still thinking though...
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Just saw the latest Motorcyclist has a blurb on the 1200 and VFRD got an honorable mention on the power derestriction of 1st and 2nd
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If I remember right I think member JamieDaugherty recommends a stiffer spring for the 929 in the 4th gen, send him a PM as he is very familiar with this swap
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Keep them all together on the air intake plate. I think if you just soak the whole rack in some carb cleaner you should be good, some like 'Gunk' for this, but you'll have to get a bigger bath for the rack to sit in. Let it soak for a while and then blow each part out with an air compressor
Also, make sure you keep the needles and jets from each carb separate from each other so you can reassemble them to their respective carbs
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Check out member hondarv4's gallery and threads here, I think he's fabricated one up for his project
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Also I seem to recall seeing someone having used the Triumph parts but that might be with the whole eccentric and spindle from a another bike. That would of course give you the choice of single nut wheels so many of us want.
Hey, I know that guy
(or at lest one of them)
DSC01792.JPG
I used the complete rear drive from a Triumph Speed Triple (all of the single sided swingarms from triumph have the same part numbers though) so that included ecccentric, cush, spindle, brake caliper and bracket (I bet you could swap some different calipers in if you want). I had to get some machining done on the axle to make it work, but it was just chasing the threads down farther and cutting off the extra length. One 5mm spacer was used for the wheel alignment and one 2.5mm spacer was used for the cush drive side. Works pretty well for me, and now I can fit any 5.5" Ducati rim on my VFR
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I'm a big fan of the 4th gen, but for a touring focus I'd agree and say the 5th gen is what I'd look into. For me these are the + and - for each
- all have known R/R issues
4th gen
+ carbs (I know, but I'd rather deal with a mechanical fuel problem than an electronic bug)
+ gear driven cams
(+ looks awesome)
+ price
- parts availability (hard luggage may be a little harder to find)
- rear tire size may not be in stock (170 rear)
5th gen
+ parts availability
+ common rear tire
+ gear driven cams
+- cheaper than 6th gen, more than 4th
6th gen
+ factory hard luggage
+ parts and aftermarket accessories availability
+ can be serviced at a dealer (most will only service bikes less than 10 years old)
+ ABS option
- more complex engine (cam chains, vtec, only really comes into play if you service your engine yourself)
- most expensive
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Yeah, axle slides out first on the right side, then circlip and caliper bracket (also right), then the eccentric can slide out the left side.
One thing that might help is to brace the swingarm against something, when you're 'tapping' the end of the axle with your hammer I bet you're getting a lot of movement in the rest of the bike, you need that force to go directly to the axle/bearing surface. If you can put a rod/2x4/beam from the right side of the swingarm to a wall or something then you can put a lot more force to the axle with the same 'tap' at the end.
And keep the penetrating oil on it, and maybe just work on it with many smaller taps to try to vibrate the axle free. Eventually it has to give...
Another thought, examine the surface of the axle that sticks out on the left carefully, if it has a build up of corrosion then it would keep the axle from going anywhere because you are then trying to shear off the corrosion which is pretty hard to do. Sand/polish the surface lightly to get any of this off and it might help
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The caliper is out of the way and the axle and bearings rotate fine. The bearings are still OK, there is no play in them and I want to keep it that way. I have used some heat to try and work it free but not much as don't want to ruin the bearing seals. I will replace the dust seals.
It seems the inner race of the roller bearing is frozen solid on the axle.
I guess the only thing I would know to try is some solvents and heat, but it should come straight out, the circlip is only to keep the caliper bracket on the eccentric
Good luck
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Many, many hours sanding, painting, sanding, painting, sanding, painting... I put about 3 coats of primer, 7-8 coats of red, 5-6 coats of clear. To finish I wet sanded with more and more fine grit (up to 2000) and then polished/buffed it by hand. A ton of work and I messed up on a few spots, but I was proud of it when I was done
Finished
Painted the detail by hand
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I think this is very good advice, try cleaning up what you have and add stainless lines to see if that's what you're looking for. Other than that I would think mixing in parts from a 636 would be more difficult than grafting on a complete front end, because you'll run into stuff that won't match up like axle length, axle diameter, brake rotor diameter, centerline spacing for rotors and wheel, etc. A complete front end would make sure that the brakes will line up with the wheel and you just have to think about where it attaches to the bike.
If you want to try some brake swapping then you might want to look at some VTR1000 parts, since they are Honda it's more likely that the parts will be interchangeable
Good luck
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I don't think upside down forks on a pre veefalo VFR are a good idea:
(that just made me cry a little)
Welcome, there are a lot of threads on the subject, I think the complete Fireblade (CBR929/954) front end are the most common and are a direct bolt on since the steering head bearings are the same as the VFR, you just have to think about the position of the fork tubes in the triples to account for trail. This is what I used on my '95 and was fairly straight forward. For my next project I'm fitting a 954 triple with a '06 R1 forks/wheel/brakes but for this I'm having to space the wheel 2mm on each side because the triple is 4mm wider than the R1 triple
Good luck
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Thanks for the info. This winters project is all about the rear. I was wondering to cut down on the cost is it possible to modify the original header to allow duel cans and put a bend to reroute it under the seat? Or is this something that I should start over from scratch with?
Welcome
I think that's what several have done with the under seat exhaust, just take the outlet where the stock muffler hooks up and make something that will slip onto that. 929 shock is recommended over the 954 since it is closer in spring rate and the reservoir will not get in the way. There's a member here who will refresh the shock for you too and put the right spring rate etc, I think he's pretty reasonable and does a good job. Then you just need to get a spacer to go above the shock since it is a bit shorter
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Thanks for the replies, I thought that was the case. I'm getting it for my 4th gen build which will probably have the fuel pump in a different location, as well as for a Hawk GT that I'm having to relocate the fuel pump (because of a subframe swap with a 748 :fing02: )
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I'm looking for some tubing to use as a fuel line (from tank to pump to carbs) and have come across a couple types. One is SAE 30R7 rated (~$1.3 per foot) and one is 30R9 rated (~$7.5 per foot), is the only difference the PSI rating (50 vs 100 psi), and can I use the first one with the lower rating or do I need to spend 7x more on tubing?
Descriptions I've found on O'Reilly:
$1.29 per foot
Multi-purpose hose for use on fuel lines, PCV and EEC systems, and for fuel return hose connections on diesel fuel injection systems. Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel and gasoline blends of ethanol, methanol and ethers (up to the legal limits allowed by the EPA).
Reinforced construction. Nitrile tube. Temperature Range: -40 degrees F (-40 degrees C) to 257 degrees F (125 degrees C). Oil resistant cover resists the effects of high heat and ozone found in engine compartments. Meets SAE 30R6 and 30R7. Also known as Safety Stripe® II Fuel Line/PCV/Evaporative Emission Control Hose.
WARNING: Do not use for pressure lines on fuel injected engines or for cooling system applications. Use Multi-Port Injection (MPI) hose for fuel injection applications. Intended for use with fuels where MTBE concentrations are no greater than 15% by volume.
$7.49 per foot
Recommended for clamped hose applications on all fuel systems, including fuel injection systems. Not designed to replace coupled hose assemblies on fuel injected engines. Approved for use with leaded and unleaded gasoline, diesel fuel and gasoline blends of ethanol, methanol and ethers (up to maximum concentrations allowed by the EPA) and 100% methanol or ethanol.
60% fluoroelastomer liner resists permeation and alcohol. Oil resistant tube combats heat. Polyester braid reinforcement increases strength. Oil resistant cover resists heat, ozone and abrasion. Meets SAE 30R9 requirements. Temperature Range: -29 degrees F (-34 degrees C) to 257 degrees F (135 degrees C). Intermittent Maximum Working Temperature: +302 degrees F (+150 degrees C).
Note: Intended for use with fuels where MTBE concentrations are no greater than 15% by volume.
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Well, I kind of started over with the project and got a different 4th gen so I could have one to ride and one to build, and working on a different bike project all together, and getting engaged, so I haven't been able to work on this one lately. But I have been improving my skills of grafting new subframes to different bikes :ph34r: (I'll have some pics soon on a different thread)
I'm hoping to get some projects out of the way so I can continue, I started a second thread for the build up of the bike here, so I might combine the two threads, not sure.
But I haven't forgotten!! Soon I shall triumph and have an awesome street bike!!
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Thanks for checking SEB, appreciate it.
Any idea how that compares to the 05 R1 forks you're bolting up?
I prefer to use parts I know going in will work, but cheaper options are always welcome :)
I'll let you know about the R1 forks when they get here on Friday. :wink:
A quick run to the garage with a tape measure (Seb can check my work)
04-06 R1
Top of cap to top of axle: 714mm
Axle: 22mm
Top of cap to center of axle = 725mm
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Anyone attempted the swap using CBR1000RR (06-07) forks or know of a reason they wouldn't work? The length looks to be right and they come stock with the spring rate I need, saving me a step and some coin. This is new ground for me so I appreciate any guidance, hints, or smacks people are willing to share.
Not sure, as long as the length is fine then I bet they'd work, I'm pretty sure they have the same offset (left to right), but the stem to fork center is different than the 929/954 (front to back). I'm going with the R1 front end with 954 triples for my current build (yeah, my garage is a mess...)
DSC02313.JPG
Let us know what you come up with for the oil radiator, I'm still struggling with that part...
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Just about all of the CBR and VFR models use the same upper and lower stem bearings, so the 929/954 is a direct swap for the lower and you don't have to worry about matching bearing sizes or switching stems. I used the 954 upper and lower since I get the gullwing upper so I have more room for fork height adjustment (and I know they work together).
Most triples are interchangeable (within fork diameter sizes) so you can mix and match the upper and lower, however they did change the offset for the CBR1000RR so that triple will not work with a 954/929 lower (tried it). Not sure about the newer CBR600's. Sounds like you'll be fine with the 954/SP1 combo, I think some here have that setup but I don't remember what the differences are from the 954, I think its only the gullwing design but not sure...
Good luck
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Great work Kel, I agree that there might be something better for the front signals, they look a little small and delicate compared to the rest of the bike, anyplace to mount some flush ones?
That paint looks amazing
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Strongly suggest you get one of these.:biggrin:
[media]
I've seen that video 10 times and still can't help watching it again - amazing
my vfr project frankenVIXXER :D
in Third and Fourth Generation VFR's
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Looks great, is the wheel from a 955 as well?
Keep up the good work, if you go without the side panels I vote for no bellypan, or at least not the VFR one, looks much too big