DDO-VFR

ZG touring for the cold weather and back to stock when it warms up. The touring screen takes the wind off my shoulders and reduces long distance fatigue somewhat. I've got to keep my head up as high as possible to keep the buffeting to a minimum. (5'10" 170lbs.)

On the flip side the stock screen allows upper body support due to wind pressure.

Overall I prefer the stock, but after a COLD tour around Newfoundland the first year I had the bike I added the touring screen for early season touring.

Brian

Yes - the fan moves air from the outside of the fairing through to the area in front of the engine. IMO the auto-shutoff at around 30 mph or so would be trick feature and big plus for such a kit.

This is confusing to me. My fan blows air from underneath the fairing to the outside of the fairing. It pushes air through the radiator rather than pulling air through the radiator. If I am reading your description correctly, it is going in the wrong direction.

Ah not the 'wrong' direction, but rather the 'opposite' direction of the natural flow during riding.

Brian

OK, I updated a few of the tire models and zeroed out the poll numbers to get a fresh start in 2011.

PM me or post here about tires that you think should be added or deleted from the poll.

I also deleted most post older than early 2009 to keep the thread more current!

BR

PS let me know of any tire you wish added to the poll.

It might be splitting hairs, but the PP/PR2 (or 3) combo FTW...maybe put it as its own line on the poll? Otherwise if I vote for both separately it skews the results.

Brian

I used the recommended Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, a Honda filter and a new crush washer. The oil was a little pricey @ 37$ Cdn for a jug of the stuff at Wally World.

Brian

And that is one reason I have mine done by my dealer.

I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think the filter, oil, and crush washer came to something like $48+.

Having it done came to about $54. I didn't think I wanted to mess with it, possibly bust some plastic, maybe screw up a few fairing clips and still have to dispose of the old oil and filter for $6.

I hear ya...I think I saved 10-15$ doing it myself. What I did save was driving to the shop, waiting an hour or two until they got around to it, and then having to stay a couple of hours later at work to make up for the time I missed. The bonus was a brief moment of pride at a job well done.

Brian

Well folks, I finally did it...I actually changed the oil myself, as in didn't pay someone. I hadn't up to now because of laziness, figuring it was easier just to bring it in. Using the 'BR method 355' it was as easy as pie. The secret recipe is the oil filter socket and a 7" long, 1/2" drive extension. Following BR's instructions, I was done, putting the tools away in 30 minutes. Turns out it is WAY less hassle than bringing the bike into the dealer and waiting around.

So I'm living proof that VFRD works. I used the recommended Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, a Honda filter and a new crush washer. The oil was a little pricey @ 37$ Cdn for a jug of the stuff at Wally World.

Now to clean and lube the chain for umpteenth time...

Brian

I'd hoped for a better outcome, but I'm gonna miss the ride this year, mostly due to obigations at work, and if I was gonna piss off my boss the weather had to be a sure thing. So all things considered I had to let it slide. I'll cross my fingers (and toes) for a window of good weather for the Saturday ride.

Place safe!

Brian

Looks like the routes are a go.

Raise your hand if you need the routes pm'd to you, I will send .gdb files.

If you tweaked the ones I sent, I'd like to see what you ended up with.

Brian

I'm still trying to work out a few kinks to be able to make it this year. Is it okay if I'm a last minute addition?

Pat,

We're really hoping it works out and you can join us! Joe & I will gladly share our room... I don't think they have rooms with 3 beds but they did say they had "air bed" avail if we needed... that is unless Joe doesn't mind you spoonin' with him... then in that case you won't need the "air bed"! Your call!

And ya, what's with the Canadian connection?

Any word from Poncho, Tumbles & crew or DDO-VFR? It just won't be the same, eh?

Take off eh...

I can't commit either way until next week. Life sometimes gets in the way of my riding! At this point it is still 50/50. Good weather (dry) will definitely make it hard to stay home (tires are approaching end of life, so riding in seriously wet weather will be dubious).

BTW, last year I plotted out Seb's routes into Garmin .gdb format. If it helps, I can do it again, but I haven't noticed anything posted on this thread. If it isn't already done and somebody PM's me a route (google or whatever) I'll give a go again.

Brian

It just dawned on me that you'll probably be changing your oil more frequently.

Can you get in there to clean the glass?

Why would he change his oil more now than before?

The silver ring you see in the pic is fastened to the cover with all those small screws, and is sealed with a large o ring. The ring can be removed and replaced in just a couple minutes.

I'm guessing it might not look as cool if the window is covered in brown sludge

What sort of oil would you use anyway?

Brian

Most (if not all) torque/hp runs on dynos are done with full throttle (come to think of it why would one do anything else), but what it would be really interesting to drive the 2-4 valve conversion at normal throttle openings to FEEL the difference in the bottom end. It's the responsive feel to minor throttle openings that really impress (to me). For example my 750 Shadow had less peak torque than my VFR but what a great push at initial throttle openings....

My hunch is that the light throttle grunt and the lower noise are the prinicple reasons for the VTEC (might even throw in pollution in the mix, if I was guessing...come to think of it I AM guessing.... ).

Brian

Ahh yes...brighter bulb syndrome....

For the sake of this discussion, I'll assume you are staying with Halogen type bulbs.

The long and the short of it, the brighter the bulb, the shorter the life.

I know some people may disagree but as I understand it ALL incandescent bulbs run hotter the brighter they are. So if you want more lumens (light) you have to burn more power, which means more heat in that tiny, itsy, bitsy little filament. So those 'extra bright' bulbs (Silverstar et al) don't last long because they reduce the filamet resistance slightly to burn brighter (and hotter) and as we all know lifespan is ferociously tied to heat in all things electrical and mechanical.

After saying all that, I think running 100W units in place of the standard 50W (I thought H7s were 50, H4s are 55W) will result in lotsa light but at a cost of extreme operating temps around the bulb and local wiring, not to mention taxing our 'fragile' electrical system.

A little off topic but 210W of running lights is not enough for you (2x H4 + 2x H7)? Have you verified the aim of you lights? Each one is adjustable for left/right and up/down. Also remember if you change your pre-load the aim changes as well.

Brian

Now you have individual switches for 1st and second gear... Good idea I might do the same. It's probably advisable not to flip the switches when the bike is in first or second. Otherwise you could throw a fault code.

edit: a DPDT switch would also work.

Please explain what a DPDT switch is.

Thanks

Double-Pole-Double-Throw On-On switch. Like this one: http://www.thesource.ca/estore/Product.aspx?language=en-CA&catalog=Online&category=Switches+Switches&product=2750636

It is an "on-on" switch with 6 terminals. I think I might repair my harness wiring then install one of these under the seat tied into the wiring near the GPS for switchable power modes.

Thanks for the explanation. I prefer 2 single On-On switches.

Makes sense, gives you 4 options instead of 2.

Brian

First off...congrats to dutchgixxer for being what appears, on the verge of solving the lower gear power limitation. But would someone help me out here? I may have missed it but in all the reading of posts, I have not seen it addressed why the VFR1200 was detuned in the first place. Somewhere....in Japan...around some engineering table, the decision was made to do this. On a bike that is already at or beyond the maximum consumer price point, why did they elect for the added production costs of the sensors and what-not for this detuning? Was it to make the rear tire last longer? Was it to keep the front wheel on the ground? Was it to keep the rear passenger on the seat? Was it to prevent over-torqueing the shaft drive system? Somewhere out there is THE valid reason this was settled upon in that engineering room. I'm like everyone else in that there is a never ending desire for more power but before I snipped or jumpered anything on my brand new bike, I would have to understand what was on the minds of the people that built it that way. I understand rev limiters and I understand max speed cutouts designed in some bikes but this detuning in those lower gears is for some other reason. Please anyone/everyone give me your best guess as to what the reasoning might be. Thanks in advance.

I have derestricted the 1st and 2nd gear power limitations. I have made a simple scematic :

You will get falsh readings on the dash when 1st or 2nd gear are engaged.

I am busy decoding the serial link between ECU and dash.

To be continued

While this looks feasible in some respects, I would caution that unless you know what the I/O interface properties are, you may be violating circuit constraints which would then risk a blown sensor or worse. I offer the following scenarios:

1. Each output of the GPS is an open drain that is asserted Low (or simply grounded) for a given gear selection. Then tying 3 output wires together into one input as you have shown is a wired OR gate and will logically work.

2. Each output of the GPS is an open drain that is asserted High (or simply opened) for a given gear selection. Then tying 3 output wires together into one input as you have shown is a wired AND gate and will NOT work as all 3 outputs must be asserted High simultaneously which will never happen.

3. Each output of the GPS is a CMOS type output that is asserted High (i.e. actively driven high) for a given gear selection. Then tying 3 output wires together into one input as you have shown is a definite circuit rules violation as the output that is attempted to be driven high will be actively countered by the other two outputs which are actively driven Low, thus causing a near direct short to the supply voltage and maybe a fried GPS.

Perhaps you've already found that it does work as shown, in which case scenario #1 is most likely true. If it doesn't work, then beware of scenario #3 which could end up costing you some $$$ to fix.

Good luck in your efforts, I wish I could do the same but the DCT control needs to know the actual gear selection otherwise it would be constantly trying to downshift below third and never finding it.

Did you see that youtube video of the kid that throws down his brand new gixxer as he guns it out of the dealership? Rear wheel just spins out like the tire was made out of plastic! Then down she goes...

I saw a video of the VFR1200 being driven by a journalist at a japanese track way back at the initial release and he spun out the rear wheel...saved it, but still... I have a feeling 'if you don't know what your doing' the torque at the rear wheel will bite you in 1st or 2nd gear in this new VFR1200, so Honda played it safe. That's all they needed, all kinds of stories about it being a 'dangerous' bike. I think that is why is has been restricted...poor man's traction control.

Brian

I feel for you 295 pound Vifferisti regarding weak suspensions (166 lbs and still counting). But more than the suspension, it's sad that you can't feel the acceleration that some of the lighter riders are lucky enough to experience.

If my bike 06 weighs 700lbs with me on it, assuming 100HP (7lb/HP), then a 295 lb rider would need a 118HP motor to get the same kick...

BI

OH I get it...that's why you're all screaming for a 150HP, 450lb 7th gen...doh!

Five months ago, just about the time Garmin released the Zumo 660, I came across the Zumo 450 for $350 (brand new but on clearance from a trusted reseller). The 660 was the "new" version of the 550, but it, too, lacked the full functionality of the 550, but nearly the same price.

My 450 was roughly half the price of the 550/660, but lacked two primary functions:

1. Bluetooth

2. XM radio *capable*

Finally, the 550 included the car cradle. I managed to snag one for $60 on eBay.

I decided that it wasn't worth TWICE the price to be able to use my Blackberry and a wired or BT headset with the Zumo. Further, the near double the price meant you could buy a separate XM radio antenna/add-on (several hundred bucks MORE than the price of the 550).

As far as auto-routing, uploading routes from MapSource or Google, tracking, waypoints, yada blah etc., it does everything the 550 and 660 does that I want in a GPS.

And being a waterproof motorcycle-specific GPS, it was the perfect fit for upgrading my GPS V.

It's been a gem since I installed it on the bike. It came with the motorcycle cradle, as well as the 1" RAM ball mount. I had a 1" ball mount for the other end (the exact dimension between the two upper bolts for the gas tank, might I add), along with the 3" stem. Wired it up with the included motorcycle power cable, and I was done in about 15 minutes.

Ain't life grand :fing02:

I am looking for a GPS that can be hooked to a computer, ride planned out on computer, then route transferred to GPS. I could care less about a GPS that gets me from point A to point B. I want a GPS that leads me on a cool ride that I have mapped out. Do these GPS's do this? Was at the Dragon last month and a guy on a Harley said he had a zumo and could go on a site where he could program any route he wanted into his zumo. Now that would be a cool GPS. The one that you could program to take you to the middle of nowhere.

YES, this Nuvi 550 allows you to create and upload routes. The software to do this comes with the Nuvi. Well, it doesn't actually come 'in the box', rather you have to go to the Garmin.com site and dig around a bit. Once you find your way around, when you try to download map/software updates, you have to first register your device, and create a user account. It's not really that difficult if you're the slightest bit computer savvy. With the Garmin software MAPSOURCE it is quite simple to create routes and once you're done you upload it to your device. The FULL map database resides on your computer, so everything that your Garmin can see/detect, is available to you when you build your custom route. The custom route is developped by stringing 'waypoints' together to build the overall route. If I remember correctly the Nuvi 550 is capable of 10,000 waypoints. So if route planning is the defining feature in your purchase, make sure the model you buy can store lots.

The Nuvi 550 is essentially the same as the Zumo 550, EXCEPT the Nuvi doesn't have Bluetooth. Somehow +600$ :angry: for Bluetooth didn't seem worth it...

"take you to the middle of nowhere"...I've been there too many times already, :blush: that's why I bought the dang thing :laugh:

BI

I have been half looking for a 550 myself, currently using an older GPS V. Where did you get it for that price in Canada??? Even Costco wants over $300 CDN.

I lucked out. On a whim I walked into Best Buy to 'window shop' as well as browse their current crop of GPS's. Lo and behold they had the 550 on liquidation for 279CAN. I had sort of set my sights on a 550 and figured, what the heck, I had not seen lower than 349CAN (at Costco) up til then.

Since then, when shopping for my mount and such, I found the Nuvi 550 listed for 329 at GPSCITY.CA. Once you factor in the 12$ shipping, it gets real close to Costco in price, but you only pay federal sales tax, so here in Quebec that saves you 7%.

This morning I updated the software and map (free map updates for 61 days). It takes quite a while....zzzz... I booted up Mapsource and uploaded a test route and it worked great. I went for a ride and the computer lady is real patient, try as I might she always finds me a way back to the planned route, which is more that I can say for me on my various excursions using paper maps. :blink:

So I'm all setup for my annual 'Great Ride'. I'll put the planned routes and discuss in another post.

I hope this info was useful, and will speed up the search for some of you that are considering a GPS mod.

ciao

BI

What is the part # for the Ram mount and where did you get it, i'm looking for a mount for my nuvi200. I've been using the suction cup on the tank, but don't like it. I am heading to the gap in august and want to get set up. Thanks for any info you can offer.

I ordered at GPSCITY.CA, but they also have the same thing at GPSCITY.COM

RAM-B-149Z-GA32U (28$CAN) mount kit and

010-11143-07 (21$CAN) power cable kit.

As I said in original post, the cradle with the cable kit is a better design than the one included in the mount kit. You can order the parts in the mount kit (without the cradle) separately, you'll save around 5$ overall.

BI

Well I finally sprung for a GSP (Garmin Nuvi 550, for 279 CAN$), and RAM mounting kits.

The Nuvi 550 comes with the cigaretter lighter charger cable, but I didn't what to jury rig that on the bike, and besides, I wanted to keep it for car use. Of course it also come with a suction cup style mount which needless to say is not ideal for a bike. I found a RAM mount and power cables at GPSCITY.CA. I ordered the RAM-B-149Z-GA32U (28$CAN) mount kit and the 010-11143-07 (21$CAN) power cable kit. Odd thing is that the cable kit only comes E/W a mounting cradle. Turns out it was a blessing because the cradle with the cable kit is much better thought out.

It has a dummy plug for the USB cable plug when the GPS unit in not in the cradle,

it has a backing plate to keep the connector from coming loose when the GPS unit is installed,

you can install the GPS into the cradle with the USB plug already in place,

and the locking mechanism is a neat cammed lever, so you don't have to fight with bending plastic.

The cradle that came with the mount kit did not have any of those features.

The power cable is equipped with the charger, a fuse, and the USB plug (and a noise suppression inductor). It was exactly the right length to reach the mount.

Here are a few photos to illustrated.

Too bad it's raining now, well I guess that goes without saying 'cuz I'm sitting here writing this stuff...just as well, I have to figure out how to upload routes anyway.

BI

+ 1 on eureka tents, is a mid-priced but great performer

tell me black 06 from quebec how you like your yellow eureka w/the vestibles?

model ? and rate it on a scale of 1-10 please. This is a goodie I think.

I carry a bivy like HS only in a quick ride, its my emergency tent..its a eureka, its never been out of the box, its my sleep in a ditch, sos tent. I am not clousterphobic (or a good speller) but IMO a bivy is great when you need it, but I like room for my gear and changing into my pjs, so a 2 man tent is the smallest for me, this vestible idea I must check out...remember this is your hotel room you spent a hard earned $13 per night for. Bike camping is way different than cager or backpacking, kayak camping, I do all types of camping so lots of gear to adjust for vehicle I decide to take, my F-150 is like a room at the Hilton to me.

BTW, after a poll was taken most of VFRD likes hotel stays, not the ADVrider group, I like a hotel on weekends or 3 days out.

Going to the summitt meet, camping on the way, Indpls to CO , then some, anyone doing that trip? doug

Looking through the Eureka website, this looks to be the closest to the model that I have, which I bought 2 years ago, cuz the the cheap-ass Walmart (20$) version leaked like a sieve the first night it rained (was in Nova Scotia at the time). Word to the wise, DON'T buy cheap stuff because you end up with...well...cheap stuff :huh: I think I paid 160CAN$ for it...actually 180$ once I add in the Walmart crapper. Don't regret it.

http://www.eurekatentscanada.com/products/...e=1∏=25

Apex 2XTC Plus, 2 person tent.

On a scale of 1-10, I would rate it a 9...why not 10 you ask? ...nothing is a 10...but that's just me.... :cool:

BI

Here are few photos of loaded bike and typical campsite setups. In 3 summers, my brother and I probably slept in a hotel/motel 3-4 times...one of them being at the annual Catskills ride. For awhile there (at Catskills) it was looking like I was gonna regret not packing the tent...

The waterproof bag on the back seat holds the tent, sleeping bag, ground sheet, air mattress and mini pillow. Most the the room is taken by the -5C rated sleeping bag. Re. sleeping bag...no I'm not nuts, most nights on the Newfoundland trip it was between 3C - 8C.

The tent will sleep two easily and has two vestibules to cover all the hard cases. Great when it's raining and you need to get something out of your bags.

What you will find with most tents is that the poles (when folded of course) are around 18" long and as a result will only fit in your top case. If figured, since I usually ride solo, why not use the back seat.

BI

Please move if neccesary.

Several people have contacted me on how I made my extra srorage unit. I thought it easier to just do one how-to.

Brilliant!

Just a reminder boys and girls...make sure anything stored there can take the HEAT...

Isn't that sort of like getting silicone implants? Looks a bit better (personal taste I know), but you know it's not real. :laugh:

Sorry, the meds are wearing off.

DDO-VFR

-55C, holy crap! When you looked out the window, did you see a flock of Emperor penguins?

Excellent report. Just out of curiosity, what were the totals...time, $$ of products, etc.?

Brian