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Loftust last won the day on January 7

Loftust had the most liked content!

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About Loftust

  • Rank
    Factory Team Rider

Profile Information

  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • In My Garage:
    02 Fi/VTEC Hybrid
  1. Looking good! The bike that it is...I couldn't possibly comment on the bloke in the picture!
  2. Hello from England

    Welcome! Maxton in Cheshire refurbed my forks. It wasn't exactly cheap, but they do feel very good
  3. Thanks - it's pretty nice riding it whilst summer is here too!
  4. Yep - you need your glasses Gareth Those figures are at the rear wheel too. Engine figures are supposed to be ~ 12% higher due to losses in the drive train.
  5. Thanks, and here you go:
  6. I've been riding the bike over the last few weeks to give it a shakedown - the fuelling has been WAY off and there has been very little power with the VTEC ECU, unsurprisingly.On Friday however, I took the bike to Dynotech near Basingstoke, who spent a good 3 hours sorting the mapping out, and it now pulls like a freight train - really strong.All of the jerkiness and hesitation has disappeared, and the bike is now much better to ride, although the sag definitely needs sorting out, and a corbin seat wouldn't go amiss.Having adjusted the chain as well yesterday (one or two tight spots ) I found that there was a bit of a clonking noise at the rear wheel. Fearing it was the hub bearing, which is new, I set about removing the rear wheel to take a closer look, only to find out that all 4 wheel nuts were loose!!! I can only imagine that heat cycling during the dyno runs had something to do with it, but needless to say, I'll be keeping a very close eye on them.I also re-adjusted the forks wrt yokes to the OEM spec as the turn-in was too sensitive. Managed to scratch a fairing infill panel in the process though, so that'll have to get repainted
  7. rear seat cowl

    That is a good point, and one I hadn't considered.
  8. rear seat cowl

    Errrmm...why would you want to have the handles fitted as well as the cowl? A pillion cannot sit on the cowl!
  9. Bike not Charging.

    Yep, that's dead.
  10. Bike not Charging.

    OEM seems to be the general preference, unless you happen to know of a reputable company that does rewinds. Pattern stators often don't last, although there have been some exceptions. If you remove the stator, you will be able to see if it has failed or not - it'll be a blackish brown colour in one particular area, apparently due to a lack of oil. That said, I'd check for resistance across the wires, as well as voltage. It should be less than an ohm. It's also worth seeing if it's shorting to ground or not, so go between each wire and ground to check for continuity. I'm not sure what the service manual says about how many volts you'd expect to see at the stator, although you may need to rev the bike to ~2k RPM to get a decent reading; the important thing is to have equal readings across the wires though. How close are you getting to 20v AC? 20V AC RMS (DC equivalent, when smoothed) is 14.14 volts, so this is pretty much you'd expect to see this at the RR output if all is well.
  11. What was Corbin thinking?

    And there I was thinking this was a thread about Jeremy Corbyn
  12. No worries Being able to feel movement is a precursor to greater wear that is noticeable by other means, and will eventually lead to total failure. The bearings are surprisingly easy to replace once the swingarm is off. The Service Manual and Haynes should tell you how to do it, although I recall merely using the right size socket and mallet to drift them out/in. Have a good look at how the bearings are seated in the swingarm before removal, particularly how far in they need to go in; there are no stops as such. You'll need new seals as well - take a look at Lings/cmnsl etc for the part numbers. Multipurpose grease will suffice when packing the new bearings - take a look on youtube for the best ways to squeeze the grease in there...you'll definitely need some latex gloves! IIRC, one of the bearings is a needle roller and only needs to be liberally lubrictaed rather than packed like a conventional bearing.
  13. Applying grease will only temporarily 'fill the gap' where there is mechanical play. There are a number of bearings that could be culprit, but I'd start off with those at the front end of the swingarm, although where the play is should be identified before disassembling the back end.
  14. I just use a Polish man
  15. Pipe/Exhaust advice

    It's likely that the nuts that hold the pipes into the heads (front in particular) will be corroded. Spray them with some plusgas a number of times over a few days prior to removing them, in order to prevent the studs that the nuts fit onto, from snapping. It's quite likely that the studs will be removed along with the nuts as well, but that's ok. It's not a particularly difficult job (a bit messy) - if your pipes have a nut and bolt that hold the collector onto the underside of the bike, this is a bit fiddly to undo/tighten up. When installing, the trick is to fit everything loosely, then tighten up a bit at a time.