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I think I have only sold 4 bikes? So... ~45.

My list is short: 1986 VF-500F red/white/blue, bought new 1986 FZ-750 red/white/blue, bought used around 1990 after someone turned left in front of me on the 500. 2004 VFR800 Italian red, may she rest in pieces. Lowside into a concrete barrier at ludicrous speed. 2008 VFR800 sword silver (dark grey metallic), still have it 2007 VFR800 Anniversary R/W/B, still have it There were pics of all of these on VFRD years ago. No clue if any still exist here. I'm a V-4 addict, though I did enjoy the bigger FZ after having the little 500. Sold it to help pay bills when my first kid was born. There's also a TTR-90 in the garage but my kids are grown now. I've got get it running again for the grandkids.

Have you balanced the Starter Valves? Also, De-PAIRing will help with throttle smoothness. HTH

Decat by itself won't do much. A better, catless header will make a difference, primarily because all aftermarket headers are build according to 98-99 spec with bigger primary header diameter. When I installed black widow headers I felt a big difference in the midrange performance 7-9k RPM. Aftermarket air filter like K&N might net you a 1-2hp improvement. Beware there are two versions of K&N, one with a bigger and one with a smaller filtration area. The bigger one will make more power. The smaller one is made smaller to provide the same airflow as stock filter but with the benefit of being cleanable and reusable.

With the honey comb cats that they have been using you would be hard pressed to gain one to two hp at the rear wheel, as for the air filter the same thing only you would be decreasing the life of the engine because all of the high flow air filter are a gauze design which do not filter the finer particles which will wear on cylinders rings and bearings. Just keep a clean paper filter in it and enjoy the power that it comes with, if you want to add some more power and improve the drivability, get the Sabsteef reflash, that will make more of a positive change power wise and make the low speed drivability 100% improved. Regards, Kent

I have a CBR F2 front wheel, actually complete 91/92 F2 fork, but plan to match the 1990 CBR1000f fork inner tubes whit the F2 outer as I have a 1990 CBR1000F fork as well around.

I received some second-hand radiator hoses on Tuesday and so was able to properly fill the cooling system for the first time, which also allowed me to run the engine up to fan cycling point. It sounded great and there were no leaks! Unfortunately I now have a check engine light which is telling me I have a wiring fault in an O2 sensor. Closer inspection shows nicks in both sensor wires where the bent radiator crushed them, so I ordered some more second hand parts for those (sigh) from Boontsra in Netherlands... I'll be pulling the forks apart this weekend and seeing what joys reside within. I am hoping to just clean the seals without replacing them but that will depend on what I find. I also placed a reasonable order with Webike Japan for some OEM fasteners and a mirror, plus second hand levers and muffler shield; a bit spendy but the best I could find.

I kicked off riding in 1982 with a new CB125T, my dad agreed to pay for half so he could limit me to 125cc. I had other ideas and sold it about 6 months later when he was overseas and bought a CB250RS single, then followed that with a new CB400NC, a second hand CBX400F and then in 84 a new VF500F, which was my first V4. I traded that on a new CBX750F because I obviously needed more power, but sold that when I went back to Uni and bought a VF400F instead. I took a second hand VF750F for an evening "test ride" and crashed that doing stupid stuff and had to buy it, and fixed it up back to new(ish). The camchains and tensioners crapped out and as a poor student I decided that was not to be repeated so I traded on another new VF400F. In 87 our local importers offered surplus US-spec VFR700Fs for cheap so I bought one and then another about 12 months later. I was young and foolish and hated it when the new wore off... I bought a new VFR400 NC24 in 89 and kept that for about a couple of years then traded it in 91 for second hand 86 VFR750F. In 96 I needed something new (again) so bought a Suzuki RF900R and kept that all the way through to 2014 due to the arrival of kids. That's one of them on the back below... In 2014 I bought a well-used and well-loved 99 VFR800, then somehow caught MBD and had to buy a VTR1000F because it was too cheap on the local auction site. In 2016 I did that again and bought a dead 1990 ST1100 and nurtured that back to health and long rides. 2018 my wife thought she wanted to get into scooter riding so we bought a new Vespa 150 Sprint, the feeling passed and she never followed through. In 2019 I fancied a bigger better ST so sold the ST1100 and VFR and bought a 2009 ST1300. In 2020 I fancied another project and bought a terrible wreck of a SilverWing scooter and bodged that back to health and half decent visuals, and sold the Vespa. Then my best mates got fancy new wheels (Tuono V4 and Z-H2) in 2021 so to keep up I sold the ST1300 and bought a 2017 Yamaha MT10SP which I still have. I also sold on the SilverWing and the VTR1000 at that time. Later that year I missed my Vespa and bought another 150. Then it was project time again so I bought another 86 VFR750F and nursed that back to proper condition, and sold it on in 22 to fund the purchase of my second 99 VFR800, which I still own. Later that year I decided I needed another tourer and bought another ST1300, which I still own. March last year I decided I needed more Vespa so I sold the 150 and bought a 2020 GTS300 Supertech, which I just sold a couple of weeks back. In July I spotted another "its too cheap" bikes and bought a 2009 VFR800, which I still own. I just bought another project bike, a 2015 VFR1200F which was an insurance write-off but seems to be solid under the scratches. For those paying attention, the 1200 will be my 27th bike owned, and my current fleet is the two 800's, the ST1300, MT-10 and now the VFR. Amazingly, I am still married to my original wife! While depreciation is a terrible thing when you are the first owner, buying and selling used bikes hasn't been financially burdensome at all.

Latest pic of the play bike since it didn't load for some reason:

In order of appearance: '87 ZX600: Got it in '98 partial trade for a '72 Mazda B1600 with a Ford 2.6 V6 swap. Sold it in '09 after I finished the bodywork/paint. '93 GTS1000. Got in early '09. Crashed it on the track 10/09. '98 VFR800. CA model. Rode the shit out of it. Multiple long trips, and track days. Eventually retired at 80K due to cracked heads. It had gotten too hot too many times. '97 VFR750 track bike project bought from a member here. Never finished, and sold with: '94 VFR750. Bought in 4/'14 as something to ride while I fixed the broken gears in the '98 trans. Had 125K on it when I bought it. Rebuilt the carbs, and the Yoshi muffler. Rode it to Colorado. Zero issues though I did eventually replace the R/R with FH020HH. Sold it with 136K. '99 VFR800 CA model used to be my girl's bike. She decided it was too much for her to handle anymore. I knew it's history, and had installed all the fancy suspension bits. '99 VFR800 48 state model. Bought from a Navy guy in San Diego off this site. Had some goodies on it that got transferred to the above bike. Some goodies from the '98 got transferred to this bike.

I'll echo Skids advice too. "Pair" system need to go, not supported by any sensors so every component can go, ensure to seal off the single vac hose that it runs off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123367974207 If you don't have em already, treat yourself to some Vac gauges (dial type) no need to spend silly money which can be matched to each other via screw on dial face, avoid the way overpriced (Morgan Carbtune crap) can't be calibrated. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/395122458071 I can see you've some kinda sports exhaust can fitted, once starter valves are set correctly with vac gauges, it'll run better with decibel killer removed. Never bin the OEM steel headers, they cost a fortune & can't be bettered on performance by aftermarket systems, if they're scabby underneath, treat em to a sandblast & high temp barbecue paint, aftermarket stainless might look shiny shiny, non perform like OEM headers. Flapper system in airbox lid can go too, vac unit twists out of lid like a bayonet bulb affair, bit of Duct tape over hole keeps water out or rivet a bit of alloy or stainless sheet over it, plastic either needs removing or self tapper it open, don't believe the tinterweb hype about free horsepower removing airbox cold air inlet snorkel, it's bollox, motor will run better with it fitted, all engines runs better on cool air. Avoid jet wash, high risk of water ingress into airbox, even with flapper fitted, more so with it removed, plus its bad for chains/bearings etc. Re: Brake pad rub, harder the pad, noisier they are, some amount of front pad drag is normal, spin test em, excess drag will stop em dead, normal drag, they'll spin half to a full spin or so, rear has transmission drag so it won't spin much anyway, judgement call really, front calipers might be overdue a strip/clean, polish pistons & new seals, if in doubt ask a bike mechanic to take a butchers for ya. Linked braking is pretty good to be fair, it's a bit marmite for some, personally I like it. 2nd master cyls on left front caliper are prone to water ingress/corrosion, have a nosy under rubber boot, avoid puncturing it, any rusty sludge type schmoo, it's shagged, they whole left caliper should easily pivot forward by hand & under braking to apply rear brake, a quick check to highlight a faulty 2nd master cyl is get a helper to spin rear wheel on centre stand while u manually pivot left front caliper up/forward, it should apply rear brake, if not it defo needs a full strip/clean, rear caliper might need some love too, avoid cheap brake kits, stick with Tourmax, they're the best available OEM quality from Japan. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/velofoxuk Let us know how you get on bro 👍

Hi all, My son and I will be in Franklin, NC from Thursday,09/25/25 through Sunday, 09/28/25. We should arrive Thursday afternoon @ 4:00 pm. We will be staying at the Microtel in Franklin. We are leaving Villa Hills, KY on Tuesday, 09/23/25; heading to WV (overnight). Next morning Wednesday, 09/24/25, picking up BRP and heading to Boone, NC (overnight); Thursday, 09/25/25, on BRP from Boone to Cherokee then onto Franklin. If you can ride a section or want to meet in Franklin, NC, let me know. Cell: 859-466-2174. Thanks, Bill Mersch, aka Mister Bill

Your bike will start fine with no alternator or RR fitted or functional. It's called a constant loss system and you would be able to ride until the battery voltage drops too far and the systems start to shut down, I used to get about 30-45 minutes out of an FSC600 scooter like that. Lights shutting off when you press the starter is normal as the starter button is linked in the switch pod to do just that. If the fuel pump primes when you switch on, but the starter motor won't turn, I'd be looking at the main fuse at the starter solenoid or the solenoid itself. You can jump the big terminals at the solenoid and that should turn the starter motor over in any case, at least that will tell you if the starter motor is healthy.

What front wheel are you going to use?

Yes, indeed, decided to do the 41mm fork conversation anyway. Thanks for the info, don't know if I will need the steering lock, bike will be ither garaged or near me on a ride.... But now I want it together as orginal one more time and ride it a few times before tear it apart

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Threw in a brand new full charged battery, still getting just a click with all the lights and the dash turning off. Could this be the dreaded RR issue?

Looks like a 41mm prep kit and some rear ride height. Nice. Keep in mind, you will have to remove the steering lock bracket from the frame to use that upper triple clamp. If you want to retain that function, source a 1988/89 VFR upper triple. Dimensionally they are same, but the ignition mount is angled for the frame bracket. They are def not as good looking though.

A box of part's has arrived I will be busy next winter

Have you ridden the bike with appropriate mufflers for any kind of comparison?

OMG really. i had no idea there were plugs for those holes ! 😃 hondas refinements thought out from step #1

1st and second seem fine 3,4,5 just dont pull all the way...top speed is only 160km...im going to say its only running on 3, theres a tick as well so one of them isnt getting fuel is the way ill lean on the issue......for now....{starts great .no choke, idles fine} thanks for bouncing ideas around with me.