All Activity

Rider sag is the total travel including wherever the bike sits when unloaded. So you need to unweight the suspension and measure the position e.g. of the fork top and the rear axle, to a fixed point above. I just measure from the underside of the triple to the top of the dust seal, then fit the cable tie and gently sit on the bike before resting your full weight on it (but not bouncing), then measure where the cable tie got pushed to. You will need a helper to measure at the back. The total travel at both ends is 120mm so something like 35mm would be good in the front and back.

Thanks for keeping this going Miguel. Sometimes, about once a year, we need a little reminder to jump in but always happy to, and appreciate the work it takes to keep the site running.

I just picked up one of these, no relationship to company just a happy customer. https://getslacker.com/ I've got a few bikes in the garage too and makes setting sag easy, or finding out you need stiffer springs. Dave Moss has some good videos also: https://davemosstuning.com/

Thank you guys so much for your input. First, to give you an idea of my weight: I weigh ~ 200-210 lbs and I usually carry a tank bag and a tail bag which have basic cookware and day trip stuff, so lets say they weigh an extra 30 lbs all together (10 for the tank bag, 20 for the tail bag, say). I think the state of my suspension at both ends was on the very "soft" side so I have taken the following steps. Front was over 3 lines showing. I am at just over 1 line showing now. According to the cable-tie method, I have just over 3 inches at max pressure (that I can exert on the forks by my weight/pushing), and just sitting on it, ~ 1.5 inches. I kept adding compression, but this did not change these numbers. Even if I turned a few more turns, they stayed at 3 inches and 1.5 inches. This is curious to me, as to whether it is normal or not? In the rear, I added compression by going from the 2nd least compression setting (factory setting I believe), to position 4. My rebound was out a few turns, and I have turned it in now to be about 1 turn out from fully clockwise. My rear sag just me sitting on the bike is 1 inch. I'd appreciate inputs as to whether you think I am moving in the right direction....and thanks again!

Dropped the bike off today at Honda to get the front wiring harness recall completed. Should have it back within a week. I’ll keep the thread updated to see if that fixes my issues.

lol! Sorry I missed this. Dropped the bike off today at Honda to get the front wiring harness recall completed. Should have it back within a week. I’ll keep the thread updated to see if that fixes my issues. I have low confidence this is gonna fix all of my wiring issues so afterwards I plan to take it to “Motorcycles Unlimited” here in Houston. I spoke to Patrick, the owner, and he seems pretty confident that he can fix it. Just excited to get this thing on the road.

Hi Lorne, Thank you for your donation of 50.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Welcome! Post up some photos! We like photos!

Greetings all, Just picked up a 2003 VFR with 6.5k miles on the clock, haven't been riding in 7 years, my previous bike was a Hornet so decided to stay honda for the return to 2 wheels. Bike had a stack of service history and All MOT certs over its 21 years, even though it has only done 6500 miles. 2nd obvious issue on the way home was the tyres, the first was the way it behaved below 3000rpm. Starts first time and very smooth until up to temp, then it's idle is a little lumpy, sounds like it's about to cut out every few cranks but never actually does, not terrible but could be smoother,.... I think So based mostly on posts I have read on here the things to tend to are possibly gummed up injectors from sitting with old fuel in the tank, or starter valves needing balanced or both. It had a leaking fork seal after an 80 mile ride home, but also invoices for new seals replaced 3 years and about 200 miles ago. The very small leak stopped after 100 miles of riding so probably dry seals just caught in time and hopefully just need to keep an eye on it. I did a very dumb ass thing ....I neglected to check the date codes on the tyres before purchase, by about 5 mile into my trip home, I was just getting used to riding a bike again but definitely noticed a harshness to the ride. A moment of squirreliness from the rear on two very medium slow speed turns and I checked the dates. Rear tyre almost perfect, looked like 500 miles on it , it was 15 years old. Front tyre was 9 years old. Got some mid range sport touring on today and it's the single biggest upgrade experience I have had in 35 years of driving anything. I can 100% attest that absolutely perfect looking 15 year old tyres are like ice skating compared to fresh rubber. I will hopefully have more to contribute to the forum , loving the vfr 800 so far. Sincere thanks to all the posters to this forum, so much knowledge stored over the years on this great motorcycle its hard to come up with questions that haven't been covered. So..... You guys literally made me do it!

Just posted my brand-new never-installed 6th Gen passivated header with extras in the classifieds here. I never got around to installing them, and now I’m selling my RC46, so time to find the headers a new home. Located in Portland, OR. Willing to ship.

For sale is a brand-new never-installed set of handbuilt performance headers (based on TBR’s design) that were part of the famous group buy on this forum coordinated by sfdownhill and Duc2V4. I bought these from another forum member a few years ago for $930 (what he had into them) and never got around to installing them. I am now selling my RC46, so the headers are also up for sale. These are the passivated version (a surface treatment that enhances corrosion resistance from what I understand) and they are beautifully fabricated! There’s a wideband oxygen sensor bung on each bank and at the merge you could use for tuning. Comes with two sets of copper gaskets, stainless threaded plugs with sealing washers for all the bungs, two exhaust springs, a clamp for the connection to the midpipe, and a SebSpeed center stand stop…everything you need for a tidy installation. Asking $800 OBO. Located in Portland, OR. Willing to ship, send me a PM with your address if interested, thanks!

One of the greatest-ever do-it-all bikes for sale. This 2006 VFR800 Interceptor ABS gobbles up the miles, tackles the twisties, runs across town, can haul a passenger, can haul luggage, can go on tour, and delivers an epic V-4 soundtrack while doing so. Fairly upright ergonomics, decent wind protection, minimal vibrations, and aftermarket seat and suspension plus a torquey and willing powerplant make it a comfortable ride as well. I'd love to keep it, but I've currently got two cars, one truck, five motorcycles, and I just bought something new, so I need to thin the herd and make some room in the garage! Located in Portland, Oregon. Clean title in my name. I'm the second owner. Asking $3250 OBO for forum members. The good: Runs and rides great 85,500ish miles, so you know it hasn't been sitting for an extended period. Just remember that higher-mileage bikes don’t get to be high-mileage by being unreliable or having problems! One-off custom Leo Vince titanium exhaust Nearly-new Daugherty Motorsports custom suspension set up for 225-240 pounds. This fork/shock transformed the bike! Sargent double saddle Solo cowl cover, removable Tinted windscreen Bright PIAA headlight bulbs Frame sliders Lots of tread on the Michelin Pilot Road 2CT tires Newish water pump Cam tensioners and regulator/rectifier replaced under previous owner only a few thousand miles ago. Comes with three oil filters and new sintered EBC brake pads I have a magnetic tank bag and expandable tail bag I'll throw in as well. You can pack a surprising amount between the two. The opportunities: Throttle/fueling can be slightly jerky when cold. Tires have good tread but are old Small gouge on left side of fairing, with mediocre touch up paint Small Paint scuffs here and there commensurate with age/miles Brakes will need pads (included) and a flush in the near to mid future Standard test ride terms; available with cash in hand; you drop it, you’ve bought it. Willing to help with delivery within 150 miles of Portland, OR. If you arrange shipping, I am willing to help on my end to meet/load. Thanks for looking; please send me a PM with any questions or to discuss further.

What are the spring rates, your weight, and your sag #s....damping settings would be userful also. We can help!

You most certainly removed the aluminum plenum prior to removing the carbs. Are you working with a Service Manual?

Yes

It's good I last year didn't ride on whit the wheel whit the Pirelli Sport demon after noticed the small cut in it! As it then felt deep and it sure was, a not sharp screwdriver and plop, hole through! So tire off and in the trash. Then as no tire on the painted wheel I had to patch up the wheel that is on the RWB RC24 As mounted a rear reflector as polish the tank as plastic Reason, a classic inspection tomorrow afternoon! Fingers 🤞 it goes well

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of 100.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of 100.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Damn it... thank you

Hi Skids, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Not to get personal but are you a bigger lad? If the jarring gets worse with the damping backed out then it sounds like you may be bottoming out the suspension? Put a cable tie on the fork leg and you can check how much travel is being used. At the back look at the damper shaft and bump stop for evidence of how much travel is used. The steps to take are 1. set the preload to get about 1/3 travel when you settle your weight onto the bike, at both ends. 2. At the front...you're done. At the back set the rebound adjuster so the suspension bounces back from being compressed quickly but without overextending. On my bike that is around 1 turn out from fully clockwise. The stock fork setup isn't the best but can be made much more controlled and compliant with weight-specific springs (I use 0.9kg/mm) and some changed damper parts. I use Gold Valves but other brands are available. Stiffer springs can offer a much improved ride over stock, which sounds counter-intuitive but generally works.

They are amost certainly the fuel supply pipes as they lead into the float bowl area would feed the float valves.

now time for forks stubborn bastard didn't wanna come apart.... i used duplicolor wheel paint+wheel clear for the sliders, rustoleum trim&bumper on the protectors, and 0000 steel wool and mother's mag polish for the pipes (plus some jb steelstik sanded to 1500grit to fill in some pits, but don't tell anyone) back on its weight for the first time in a while (ignore the backwards wheel, it's gotta come off again for paint and tires anyway) reinstalled exhaust, throttles, and airbox (what a pain that was) and my "shop" is now empty again