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It’s painful when the issues are partly electrical too. But this is a good lesson to me, always disregard what other people say when it comes to maintenance and verify things yourself, don’t be afraid to ask for help… and don’t trust a lousy frenchman! I hope to be up and running again soon, but im sure it’ll be awhile. If anyone has ANY leads for an engine i’d be very appreciative. Cheers!

The rear tire was skidding, it did it before when I didn’t get enough momentum when bump starting so that’s just what I figured for the most part. As for the engine turning over I guess I was mistaken. I plan on taking this engine off the bike and tearing it down, and maybe finding a donor engine I can run for a season or so while I rebuild my engine, that way I don’t miss a season or two. The best way to learn something is to get so far into it you have no other option!

I do not know off hand of any aftermarket alternative for 6th gens. But if I were to go down this road I would check eBay first. If no luck there, there are plenty of dirt cheap universal radiator fans on Amazon. I would measure the stock fan's size and then shop for something sized similar with airflow direction I want.

Sorry to hear your news. You have a major project in front of you. Sorting out dead engine issues on a neglected bike is difficult, time consuming, and intimidating. And getting advice from experts on VFRD can be intimidating also, but you have handled it with grace. Best wishes, please post an update in the future, hopefully a spring ride pic north of Ottawa.

That was really the only explanation for why the starter would spin up fine on the bench, but draw massive amps when trying to turn the engine. I had my suspicions too, but thought for sure you had verified the engine turned over (easily). I take it the rear tire was skidding when you were reporting it wouldn't bump start? Sorry dude. Take the time to find a used engine in my opinion.

Welp, it’s finally been figured out. The motor is seized. I had my suspicions leading up to it, but ended up being a combination of electrical issues and the engine being seized that were causing the symptoms I experienced once the bike died. They said they found copper in the oil, even though I drained the oil after the bike died and I didn’t see any fragments or shavings, but I guess I could have missed something. Anyways, they want over 3+ hours of labor at $180/hr to tear it down so im just going to take the bike home next week and i’ll tear into it myself over the winter. Any advice for where to source a rebuild kit (if there even are any) or a new engine? I’ve looked around on Ebay and Facebook Marketplace but I haven’t had much luck. I want to thank you all for your insight and advice, I guess I should have been more thorough in my diagnosis. The bike died after only 20,000km in my ownership (I bought it at 40,000km and got it to 60,000km) with regular services (Oil change, airfilter, brake pads, fluid flushes, etc) every 5-6,000km’s. Till next time lads! Cheers!

I agree, not trying to throw parts at it. The fan was initially stuck which caused the first couple fuse pops. I replaced the fan blades because it was lopsided would get stuck on something. Couple days later, fan worked sometimes and and sometimes popped a fuse. Tested the fan switch, it was not operating correctly per the service manual, so I then replaced replaced that too. Everything working fine for a couple rides; now it's popped a few times due to me needing to use it as a source of transportation. In summary, 3 things have failed in this system so far: Fan blade was lopsided and getting stuck (fixed), Fan Switch was no longer grounding at correct temperature (replaced), now fuses are popping with a seemingly working system (I assume the fan motor is damaged due to the first failure). Ill bench test the fan to verify that is pulling too many amps, but regardless I would need to replace the fan motor. Do you know of any replacements I could use outside of the OEM part number that's not $300? If I have to buy it then I will, just wondering if there's another drop in replacement I could use or pull from a salvage yard.

Maybe not do it like that... 🙃 The RC30, of course, had a factory LHS exhaust, so left and right exhausts should be possible, but I also recall that the RC30 exhaust pipe incorporated a crimped section to clear the SSSA. A bit of a compromise was required, I guess, to make full use of the SSSA and allow quick tyre changes? Ciao, JZH

My 2004 VFR800A is having a major facelift and components upgrade for a custom bike exhibition next year. Intending on using a Motogadget M-Unit between the ECU and the lights/indicators/switchgear etc. Would love to know if anyone has already done this for a knowledge swap. Thanks for your attention Colin.

Happy Thanksgiving!

It drives me nuts doing twin exhausts on these. The extra weight is just bonkers. And what does it do for performance? Meh. No thanks. I apologize for my terminology. ^ A bike came to my shop. Someone had the same intentions, albeit misguided... *PLEASE DO NOT DO IT* 20250712_113725.heic 20250712_113732.heic

JB Weld's been on sale for yrs here in the UK, u can buy it just about anywhere these days, if it works for you, that's great, I can defo see the benefit of having some in stock, even if it's just as a temp repair option, or even a permanent repair, dunno if I'd fancy some as a coolant sealing repair tho. My old man used to be a coal miner for the NCB in the 60's/70/s/80's, his garage shelves were stocked with the original stuff (Belzona E-metal) u couldn't buy it back then, it was crazy expensive to produce, money was no object for the NCB back in the 70's, u can actually buy it now, still crazy expensive.

My bike had the universal green coolant when I drained the system (not sure what the factory used from new?), but I plan to use the blue colored Asian variant when the time comes to refill the system. I had good success with that coolant variant when I replaced coolant on a 1800 Goldwing I used to ride. Distilled water is $1 a gallon in the supermarket, so absolutely no reason to cheap out with tap water.

Gaz is technically correct, and in a perfect work his method is definitely the way to go. One of the million revelations about coming to the US from the UK was this cheap and amazing product called JB Weld that can fix almost anything. 🙂 JB Weld wasn't available in the UK when I lived there 30 years ago, but I quick google search tells me it is available through limited distribution channels, but not in every hardware store like here in the US. I'm cautious by nature, but I will sleep well at night with the JB Weld repair. I will also keep an eye on this area for a good while once the bike is back on the road.

People have used JB Weld for this kind of thing for years. It works great. I wouldn't worry about it one bit.

This is the way. I've done it the other way. It was a PITA. If you're just doing head gaskets you won't need to touch the rear wheel/swingarm

Don't just throw parts at stuff. Repeatedly installing new fuses IS NOT TROUBLESHOOTING. I had the fan fuse pop on a 5th gen. An item had gotten up in the blade spin area wedged in the radiator fins and was occasionally stopping the fan in its tracks, popping the fuse. Sixth gens also have side mount radiators that would invite debris into this area. Inspect the fan spins freely by hand with the bike off. Remove the fan and bench test it with an inline fuse holder and 12V source like a car battery.

Personally I wouldn't rely on any kinda filler on such a vital sealing surface, last thing you need is a severe coolant leak, could potentially end in a crash, coolant n tyres don't mix. I'd have stuffed rag in water ports & thread holes & block sanded it back to a uniform surface, cut a small bit of wood, wrap 400 wet n dry around it, use engineer blue or a sharpie ink marker works ok to ensure its blocked flat, sand a bit, paint it, sand it, paint it etc, you get the idea, keep at it until all the pits are gone, run a tap thru threads too for good measure, blow out swarf & Bob's your Auntie. Refurbed no end of stat housings & engine casings this way, you're only removing a few thou of material. O'rings don't seal well on pitted surfaces, bolt off joint will likely be pitted where O'ring sits, I'd future proof it, fully coat O'ring in Hondabond/Yamabond or similar on assembly, just allow it to go nearly dry before bringing surfaces together, Torque set bolts (M6 into alloy is 10N.m), leave it a good 24hrs before adding coolant or running motor, sealant needs time to cure, it'll probly never need to come apart again in your life time. Ensure you use correct alloy engine specific coolant, either buy pre-mix of self mix raw coolant 50/50 with distilled or deionized water, never use tap water, full of minerals that'll crystallise & gum up water ports & rad.

Always impressive to see pictures of VFR with its engine out. That’s some work. I need to get over my illness so I can ride, maybe this weekend. I enjoy the older Honda’s from the 2000’s, incredibly well built machines.

Anybody know some swappable radiator fan motors to replace stock? Part number is 19030-MCW-D01 for 6th gen. Buying new is ~$300, and that's ridiculous. Diagnosis for future references and documentation: I keep popping my 20A fan switch fuse. I tested fan switch to ground and harness and both are working, so figure its my fan motor that's pulling too many amps and causing the fuse to pop. When I first bought the bike I realized the fan wanted to spin, but was stuck (I could hear the fan motor whining). Couldn't pull the fuse so unfortunately I had to ride it like that. I've gone through about ten 20A fuses and a couple 25A, they are essentially one time usage. Once I plug in a new fuse, the system works properly. Go for a 20 minute ride, come back, and fuse is popped. Pretty sure the fan motor is toast. Bike: 2008 VFR 800 (6th gen)

The RC36-II actually has a pretty decent header system on it compared to the RC36-I chamber. I installed the later system on my 92 and def realized gains. That being said, I would absolutely expect some gains from one of the Tyga full systems over stock if the carbs were properly jetted to take advantage. But if the drop dead good looks of that system combined with the heavenly noises it is going to make is enough to make you happy... fucking go for it. Please let me live vicariously thru you. I don't remember any reviews of anybody here, or over on VFRW, doing this. GODDAMM

Considering getting a Tyga left exhaust for my R36 2 Any owners here done the same and if so how have you got along with it? Am guessing there isn’t a huge difference if any in performance? For me its mainly the noise and the looks that appeal

You can remove the heads in situ. You can't drop the engine on an 800 easily due to it having a pivot less frame, you have to remove the swingarm & cushion, so there is nothing left to support the rear of the bike! Unless you rig up a prop under subframe or suspend it from above. The bare engine on its own is approx 75Kg, so be careful if moving it on your own, best to have some help.

This would be the first blown VFR head gasket I've ever heard of. Curious to see what you find... Ciao, JZH

Much more confident in water integrity after filling the pock marks with JB Weld.