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Found 8 results

  1. You want to upgrade your 6th gen with some 8th gen parts? Well here's your chance - totaled 8th gen going up for auction - https://www.copart.com/lot/39805397 It's seriously scraped but the damage does not appear too bad. If you win the auction I'll purchase the subframe
  2. I bought this VF500F earlier this year as a project bike and my second ever motorcycle. I have been working on making it look better and work as it did in the '80s(while modernizing where I can). I thought I was buying a 1985 VF500F, but have since found out from the MTO history documents that it is an '84. Its got 56 thousand km on it, but it runs and it was cheap. I have been told that one of the previous owners restored it using a few donor bikes and based on the frame paint and what not I'd say it has. I have been taking it apart and learning how it works so that I can fix up anything is out of date or falling apart. It has been fairly straight forward so far using guides and chatting with people on this forum, but I have a few questions and am looking for general advice. I've been thinking about the exhaust on this bike for awhile. The bike has some sort of upgraded 4-1 exhaust on it and I think I've identified it as the Hindle 4-1 pipe. It shows it's age though. There is rust pitting and an odd cloudy texture on the metal. How do I resurface the pipe? Also, the can that was on the end was a SuperTrap, but its kinda broken and I'd like something lower profile too. I have been considering leaving the end open as a straight pipe, except the end of the pipe is messed up and has an adapter bolted straight through it. To fix this I want to remove the end bit of the pipe and fab my own stainless side exit. Would this be viable? Will it mess with the tuning too much? I am aware of the carb jetting I'd need to do in order to make it work and I can do it. All that I've been reading from GAZ's topic about building his own pipe has put me off though. I'd also like to know what having this pipe means compared to stock. Besides the exhaust I am open to advice for things to fix. So far my list of things to do looks like this: Tires Repainted wheels Lights Speedometer Redone seat Chain and sprockets Wobbly clutch lever(How do I fix this?) Carb sync and clean Carb jetting Mirrors I am going to link an album of pictures here for the pipe. http://imgur.com/a/RmqqA P.S. - I am not keeping the original look of this bike, but I am a huge fan of the engineering behind the VFR series and I've wanted one of these since I first got into bikes. If anyone in Ontario needs red plastics or stock parts I can hook you up. This is an ultra-low budget D.I.Y. build, since I'm 18 and in school(before anyone suggests super sonic builders who can do it for me). Why is mine red?
  3. I like lists, i like sharing lists. I also like to get feedback on work or addons to do. Would love to get replacement mirrors with that 'memory click' position thing like modern bikes have - But would need to pretty much be bolt on and go. Even better if they have built-in indicators. I'm mostly restoring or improving bits around the bike right now; Older bolts are being replaced with OEM parts, some of the weird green-ish ones are being swapped out with stainless versions and/or being upgraded to a caphead. DONE new OEM front spindle bolt new OEM front mudguard bolts new handlebar bolts new OEM fairing bolts new OEM rear sprocket nuts new OEM rear wheel nuts new OEM rear wheel locking nut new tank bolts delete airbox snorkel disable flapper valve add MRA Vario touring screen add Stomp grip pads new mirror bolts modify undertray - remove document tabs add USB socket new front fork pinch bolts paint buffed sealed and waxed paint rear sprocket paint forks Fit bar risers (AMAZING difference) TO-DO touch-up bracket holding speedo and replace nuts and bolts replace bar pinch bolts replace protruding bolts near grabs with something smaller replace fuel cap bolts with new caphead clean and spray around front engine area behind front wheel replace carbon heel guards Disassemble parts under top yoke and clean replace calliper bolts w/ caphead rear sprocket washers engine bolts (6x32) x22 - replace visible only w/ stainless caphead get paint chips and scuffs fixed ADDONS 350mm Delkevic high-line can Denali sound bomb (horn) (split version) R&G bar end sliders R&G crash bungs Pipercross air filter Wheels powdercoated Puig lever set Riderscan DID X ring heavy duty chain & sprockets Mirror spacers (20mm) Tank shield oxford heated grips (sports) Exhaust protector Yamaha R1 reg/rec (2004-2006) Must be MOSFET / FH Headlight protector Pilot road 4's reflective rim tape MCT suspension service CNC foot pegs Jollify carbon heel guards grippy seat re-cover + mod for lower angle Voltage meter
  4. Parts List

    From the album 96 VFR 750

    I've had some people ask what parts came from where. Aside from farkles (throttle lock, lights, ets), it's basically a 96 VFR (1) with some VF500 plastic (2), a CBR front end (3) and a SRAD GSXR tail section (4). So, 4 bikes. . . and some small stuff from other bikes.
  5. I thought I'd share my modifications progress so far. It's been a busy few days as all my new parts arrived this week, and my ride has been feeling the love. My mods so far: Two Brothers S1R Slip-on. Ventura Pack-rack & Euro-Rally expandable tail-bag. Powerbronze dark-tint airflow windscreen. LED Indicators front and rear (with 50W 6ohm load resistors) Designing a tail-tidy/fender eliminator with integrated rear reflector so as to be street-legal. Happy BikeDay, just picked up the new ride. Traded in my black Gen-6 for a black Gen-8. TBR S1R pipe, and Ventura rack fitted. Load resistor, front LED indicator, and rear LED indicator - all sourced from eBay. Stock (left) vs. LED (right). The orange reflection from the globe has been removed. I mounted the load resistors under the grab-handle frame using pineapple tape, in the locations circled. I couldn't find room inside the mirror housings for the load resistors - especially not if they get hot which is very possible on a 40┬░ Celsius day stopped in traffic. Instead I ran wiring down the mirror stalk and mounted the resistors on the dash/windscreen frame using more pineapple tape.
  6. Modified March 2012 - Outdoor

    From the album My Born Again VFR

  7. Modified March 2012 - Indoor

    From the album My Born Again VFR

  8. Figured I needed a place to capture the next few weeks of mods as I'm a total electrical noob and I'll be needing some help along the way. Got the bike in late Feb and so far I've completed: Signal Dynamics Wig Wag brake light modulator Signal Dynamics headlight modulator with new Silverstars Rim Wrap - silver rim tape (decided against the yellow) NEP Cruise control Fenderectomy with cool LED license plate light Grip Puppies grip covers (coming off for heated grips install) Started tankslapper install with tank protector strip only Hopefully, I'll get the mirror extenders shortly and finish the tankslapper install on the next warm weekend. Still waiting on the Chinese levers. Since it's going to be rainy for the next week or two, thought I'd get to the electrical stuff. On tap: Symtec heated grips with round toggle switch VFRNess with accessory bundle 3 switched, 1 unswitched Stebel Nautilus horn with wiring kit Lascar EMV1200 Voltmeter (think I want to paint the bezel black too) Any thoughts on the order of the mods? I was thinking: VFRNess - obviously Lascar - to be able to read the gauge as I do the others Symtec - same mounting location as Lascar (left black panel under clutch - must dremel/drill panel) http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/gallery/image/39915-vfr-for-sale-photos-010jpg/ Stebel - seems the biggest pain depending on mounting location and can ride without it if I get frustrated. Can this be done in a weekend and still have time for a set of tennis and church on Sunday?

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