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In My Garage:

Found 8 results

  1. Had a thought about using the 4th unused connection/terminal on the Starter Relay to Main Fuse A. This mod will share the load current through TWO terminals not just one and hopefully never cause the burning, high resistance connections so many owners have experienced. - Firstly Remove Main Fuse A. - Make up a lead with similar gauge as the existing Red wire, and crimp a spade connector to the end, the same type as per the existing ones, insert the lead into the spare hole of the Red connector. Splice/solder the other end onto the existing Red wire and insulate it. A good spray of CRC-2-26 electrical lubricant or equivalent into the connections would also help. - Re-Install Main Fuse A. Check out the two drawings attached. If you're not up to doing the mod yourself, any good auto electrician could do it for you. Sorry I no longer have a 6gen so can't provide better how to do it info or photos of the mod coz I've not done it! Cheers. Wiring as is. Wiring After Mod. The 4 Connections at the Starter Relay.
  2. My bike had to sit for a year while I dealt with family stuff, but I'm back at it. GRUM gave some great insight, and I've tried your suggestions. This was my latest status: - The problem seems to centre around the engine stop relay. With the key turned on, I get 12+ volts at three of the terminals: Black, Red/Orange and Black/Purple. I get 0.0 volts at the Black/White terminal. I also get 12+ volts at all three wires at the Engine Stop Sensor (BAS). This was GRUM's response: You appear to have established a faulty BAS, OR its wiring. As mentioned the BAS provides the Engine Stop Relay coil Ground via the R/O wire through the BAS to the Green ground wire of the BAS. Without this Ground line the Engine Stop Relay cannot energize. Your statement " I get 12v at all three wires of the BAS" should NOT be the case, the Green wire of the BAS is GROUND! In fact the same Ground wire the Fuel Pump uses. You should ONLY be seeing 12v on the BAS at the W/Blk wire in normal operation. With your voltmeter black lead ideally on the Negative Battery terminal and your red voltmeter lead probing the BAS Green wire you MUST see 0v. If NOT then unplug the BAS and make sure the Green wire is properly connected to Ground as it needs to be (continuity check to Ground). Irrespective of your meter results MAKE SURE the Green BAS wire is properly GROUNDED as this appears to be your Main fault. To verify your Engine Stop Relay works you can simply probe a temporary Ground wire to the R/O wire. With Ignition On you should hear the relay energize and hopefully your Fuel Pump Prime! As previously mentioned. You will NOT have any volts on the Black/White wire until the Engine Stop Relay energizes, that's it's job! So I got a brand new BAS and I still get 12 volts at all three wires (Green, R/O and WH/BL) I can only have two plugged in at a time or the fuse blows as soon as I turn on the key. I cut the Green ground coming out of the BAS connector and wired it straight to the frame with a new, heavier gauge wire to test it. An impedance check of the R/O seems fine. With the BAS connection undone, I cut the R/O wire before the BAS connection and using a lead wire ground it to the frame. The fuse blew as soon as I turned the key. Any thoughts?
  3. 2004 w/abs with 60000km (Canadian model). During brisk acceleration the engine completely loses power momentarily. It's an intermittent occurence, it's happened in first, second, and third gear. It's like grabbing the brake for a split second, enough to jerk me forward. The tach goes to zero and then comes back and it continues to accelerate. It seems like the bike momentarily shuts off. I did have one occurence where it completely died and I had to restart. I suspect a bad ground but I have no idea how to diagnose an intermittent ground issue like that. The FI light is not on nor flashing. It seems to be running normally in all other respects. Battery has good voltage and charges normally. The battery ground is good and the multi wire (20 pin) ground connector, which is grey on my bike and not yellow or orange, is clean and has good grounds. I have the vrfness installed and a Rick's stator and R/R which are almost two years old. The plugs are one year old. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  4. I started my bike this weekend and it appears that both of my headlights are out as well as the left side front signal. And, the "High Beam" indicator is lit up blue as if the beams were on but it won't turn off. Surely my headlights didn't both fail at once and cause this? Anyone?
  5. VFRSuperfreak

    Yuasa battery

    From the album: Service Items:Chain, Brakes, stainless chain adjuster &

    previous finally died, 4years + of service, report shortly
  6. Figured I needed a place to capture the next few weeks of mods as I'm a total electrical noob and I'll be needing some help along the way. Got the bike in late Feb and so far I've completed: Signal Dynamics Wig Wag brake light modulator Signal Dynamics headlight modulator with new Silverstars Rim Wrap - silver rim tape (decided against the yellow) NEP Cruise control Fenderectomy with cool LED license plate light Grip Puppies grip covers (coming off for heated grips install) Started tankslapper install with tank protector strip only Hopefully, I'll get the mirror extenders shortly and finish the tankslapper install on the next warm weekend. Still waiting on the Chinese levers. Since it's going to be rainy for the next week or two, thought I'd get to the electrical stuff. On tap: Symtec heated grips with round toggle switch VFRNess with accessory bundle 3 switched, 1 unswitched Stebel Nautilus horn with wiring kit Lascar EMV1200 Voltmeter (think I want to paint the bezel black too) Any thoughts on the order of the mods? I was thinking: VFRNess - obviously Lascar - to be able to read the gauge as I do the others Symtec - same mounting location as Lascar (left black panel under clutch - must dremel/drill panel) http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/gallery/image/39915-vfr-for-sale-photos-010jpg/ Stebel - seems the biggest pain depending on mounting location and can ride without it if I get frustrated. Can this be done in a weekend and still have time for a set of tennis and church on Sunday?
  7. 126 downloads

    This is a link to Electrosports comprehensive charging system flow chart, probably the best resource on the web for diagnosing a charging system issue, the file is a hotlink to Electrosports file on their servers.
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