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Sorry if this has been asked before but I did try searching. I live on the Central Coast, NSW Australia and I’m looking for recommendations as to where to have the valve service done on my RC80 vetec. I’ve heard the horror stories and was ripped off by a mechanic who said he’d done the service and charged me for it but I recently discovered he hadn’t. As a result it’s now way overdue. The local Honda dealer has only just got the Honda franchise so not keen on them as they’d have no experience. Happy to travel to Sydney or Newcastle. Thanks for any help 🙂

Hello All, Just struck a deal to buy a 15k mile VFR800 1998 engine for my old 5th Gen and toying with the idea of working the head a bit before spooning it into the frame. Was thinking about maybe polishing the ports in the head and recutting valve seats. Maybe even harder valve springs or something. I know now it will never be an R1 or Hayabusa but the engine will be out and these bits easy to access (famous last words!). Would you you guys just lob the “new” engine in or would you work it over a bit first? Also, any idea what this sort of work might cost and a good recommendation in England? Ideally in the Midlands. Bike is going to be a weekend toy with maybe two trips to the track per year. Got Rapid Bike Racing fuel controller to go on along with some airbox mods (ala Mohawk, Keef, OZVFR and CandyRed). Not really sure sure where to go with this just now... What would you do? Stray

Greetings - New to VFR and forum. I recently acquired a 1991 VFR. One owner, but came via another party so do not have direct access to past history. Bike is not quite as nice as Treestylist,... 70K+ miles. Did come with extra set of wheels and front float rotors (from 4th gen?), as well as a box of misc. air filters, oil filters, manuals gave some hope it was owned by responsible person. Also has a FOX rear shock, so thinking owner did have right idea in mind. Was a great deal, but had to buy - no ride. Had anticipated a complete go through. Had not anticipated bent fork tubes. I have now read through many past forums on suspension and looking for sage advise. I have new tubes on order with Frank's - Have all new bushing, seals, head bearings. Made a stem nut adjust tool so if anyone local needs to borrow can do. Have head reassembled but trying to find an ounce spring scale to adjust to the Honda spec of 1-1.5kg pull at leg. In tear down have discovered that this has RaceTech 1kg/mm springs with a preload made from a thin wall electrical conduit,...not to thrilled with that part. These may be on the stiff side as rider weigh in at 165, no luggage? It has RT compression gold valve with a set up for their "C33" stack - NO bleed hole? Not clear if the rebound piston is stock or RT? It has 10 17mm dia. x .01 mm shim stack. - NO bleed hole. Can someone explain what the bleed hole does as it seems to me that the top of rebound piston has a (by-pass) valve that would allow oil to be forced to the top side that can not go though the compression stack and therefore "Bleed"oil to the top side?? What would have been the result of this being used without the bleed holes? IT must have worked to some degree? I only rode it for a very short distance when loose head bearing (result of whatever happened to forks?) came to light. I did notice it seemed to dive badly on braking. Have called RT to see if they could provide original info from owners name,..They have name in record but no spec's. They are nice but answers are cryptic at best. They suggest that I order a complete new shim set at $60+ and with that get a new "code" to get set up for me. Not unreasonable but think that this set up could be close to correct. I just want to verify the rebound stack - my understanding is that if the rebound is still stock then may not be adequate for the stronger springs and be overpowered on rebound. What the logic is of the bleed holes and should I add these to both compression and rebound? How is it that no one seems to have put together a spreadsheet of RT data so we can do our own calculations? Would love to hear from 3rd gen owner who have RT set up and any clues of what works and what does not.

Is it possible to check/set my VF750s valve clearances without the Honda Camshaft Holder? What function does it perform? And finally, can I still get one from Honda (or aftermarket)? cheers ian

Hey all, Gee, another adjust or not thread. How exciting! Fifth gen with about 97k miles on it: Here's where I'm at. I have a few that are loose by +0.01 mm over max clearance, one at +0.02 mm, and the worst at +0.04 mm. Since they are loose and not tight -- no reason to pull the cams, right? On the tight side, I have one intake valve at -0.02 mm under min clearance, and one at -0.01 mm under. The latter is the inside intake valve on #3, which is a bear to measure anyway, so who knows. Oh, and unfortunately of the two that are tight, one is on each cylinder head. Naturally. Would you swap shims or no? I know, they're out od tolerance and I probably should. Just figured I'd put this out there. Thanks, Aram