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Good afternoon all, long time member but first time posting anything to this forum. I previously owned a 2006 VFR800 and loved it but life got in the way and it was sold to the next owner back in 2018. Fast forward 4 years and I acquired this 2003 VFR800 w/18k miles for a steal... because of this semi-sporadic noise in the engine: I replaced both the copper exhaust gaskets at the head as well as the silver collar gaskets in the mid-pipe area, then I followed the directions for rewinding/servicing the CCT but the noise is obviously still there. (Towards the end of the video you will see a little smoke from oily hands on the exhaust pipes, this is not coming from the engine.) Any suggestions on things to inspect or try before I go down the long road of sourcing a good used engine to swap in? Overall the bike is in really good shape for being 20 years old and was garage kept nearly all of its life. The only mechanical modifications are a Staintune slip-on exhaust, everything else is cosmetic. Thanks all!

Does anyone have a set of the VTEC slider pins that are needed to do the valve adjustment measurement on the 6th gen? I ordered a set, but they aren't in stock - and realized I should probably ask here - and possibly set up an exchange for them as they are rarely used, and not easy to damage. I'd be happy to pass the ones back-ordered, but since I have no date on when they'll ship and a bike apart in the garage, I wanted to ask if anyone could sell or loan me theirs to get the job done. Thanks from southern Maryland.

Someone asked if it's the exhaust valve that drops first in a VF500 engine. The answer to that is apparently. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/76067-cornercarver-got-better-head-than-me/ Maybe I should go for three in a row Guess I'll just start taking everything apart. Anyone want a VF500C with clean title, but missing an engine?

It's valve adjustment time for my VF500F. The bike has 28k and has never had a valve adjustment. I've been doing lots of research before I jumped in and being this i my first time attempting a valve adjustment I didn't want to F it up. Two feeler guages, clymer manual and special tool in hand, I gave it a first shot last night. Following the clymer manual, there are two TDC positions, front and rear on the flywheel, adjusting to a 1,4,3,2 cylinder order. Instructions state the intake and exhaust valves can be adjusted at the same time. I was finding I couldn't get a feeler under all valves, I adjusted the exhaust valves on 1, 4 and intakes on 3 and nothing on 2. So my question is do valves need to be loosened? Can they tighten over time? And can a tight valve be considered out? Thanks.

Guess I shouldn't expect anything else when you're getting sloppy seconds So many months ago, CC and MC made a big trip zigzagging all over delivering and picking up. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/blog/213/entry-507-a-tale-of-two-4th-gens/ (get on part deux!!) While he was here, I mentioned that I had a spare VF500F engine that I was going to cannibalize for parts. I was going to swap it in the VF500C, but I saw that an intake valve was broken. So we stood around and watched MC take the head that didn't have the broken valve for their own projects. Finally got around to getting a workbench for the new apartment. Took time today to take the other head off. This is about how things went. Get the valve cover and camshafts off. Hmmm...there should be a valve over there, and I shouldn't be able to compress that spring by hand... Well, the other pistons look pretty nice. Let me pop these heads off and see how the other set looks. What the...... I didn't really want to look, but I sort of had to... Screw that. I'll go work on the F2, and I'll start with draining the carbs. St. Patty's day must have come early. Guess that means it's beer o'clock. And that's how I make every project a career.

Alright team a quick question about Valve cover gaskets. Mine decided to leak very slightly above the cam chain tensioner on the back cylinders. (no drip on the floor just some dust collected and obviously a slight oil weep) So my question is can I simply open the cover and clean the gasket and sealing surface (no RTV or such added during the valve check) so i'm not sure why i'm leaking. Bolts torqued to book spec however I might try to see if they want to tighten slightly more. These gaskets run about 32 bucks a piece but the book doesn't mention replacing on the valve adjust. Therefore i'm wondering what the group is thinking. (The gasket looked in perfect condition upon removal and reinstall). Thanks for any help you guys can offer. I can post pictures later if it would help with the oil leak but I don't see any value added.

It looks very much like I am going to try and salvage both my VF500C and VTR250 engines. I have a spare VF500 engine with one head left on it for parts. So after I tackle the F2 and get it running I was going to switch back over to the VTR and see what the damage is. A new engine is going to be cheaper or close to buying all the tools, but then I'm still left with an engine in questionable condition that might need work in the end anyways. I don't have any of the tools needed to do it, so I figured I would ask around to what other people have or have used. I've seen some DIY stuff with C-clamps, and some of the Motion Pro tools which look really nice and have a price to match. Off the bat, I'm thinking I'll need the following. Leak-down tester Piston rings tools valve spring compressors valve seat guides Might end up needing a few other things, but those are the big ones I can think of. So please let me know what your experiences are and what you suggest. I'm all for spending some money on a nicer tool than a DIY solution that's a bit iffy to use. If the tools can carry over to car heads that would be even better.