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The handlebar switches on my 5th gen are pretty shot, so I bought replacements, but the throttle cables are giving me grief. Is there any way to get the throttle cables loose *without* involving the screws down by the throttle drum? I can't find my ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver and I'm afraid I might have already mucked up the head on the smaller screw. I can buy a new tool, but if I'm missing something clever, I'd sure like to find out.

Hello VFRD! I am new to riding and got a VFR800 8th generation from 2014 as second motorcycle. I bought it used with 5000 km 2 months ago and I have ridden it 6000 km with it in this time frame. The maintenance is soon due, at 12000 km. I was planning on cleaning it and doing some minor maintenance, with the agreement of my local official Honda dealer / garage. However, on Saturday morning as I was firing it up to buy some of the tools I would need for the maintenance, I forgot to remove the disk lock on the front wheel, which broke a small part of the front fender. I consider this a non event but who knows. After assessing the damage (none that matters, or should matter), I tried to drive away and a loud rattling noise made me reconsider it. While I do not care so much about cosmetics, I do not want to risk any damage on the engine. The bike starts without an issue and keeps a constant normal idle rpm. The noise starts as soon as I open the throttle, with or without a gear engaged, with or without the clutch being engaged. I have removed the fairing to try to hear more precisely where the noise comes from and hoping I would see something loose. Now that the fairings are removed, I think the noise comes from the right side of the bike, around the front right cylinder. Looking on Internet, I understand this might be the front Cam Chain Tensioner being worn. This seems very early at 11000 km. Could anyone point me towards a potential culprit and how to verify the hypothesis? Should I just go to the dealer and not touch anything? I might be wrong so if you got suggestions do not take all of my rookie analysis as solid. I will try to post a video with the issue at hand during the day.

Hi All, I've bought the Power Commander 5 and Auto Tune kit, and today have just installed only the PCV (ran out of time for the Auto Tune). I loaded a generic map just to see how it goes, but it's running way too rich. Smoke out the exhaust indicates that, and it wasn't happening all day yesterday before the install. I have noticed an issue with the throttle position sensor, which I tried to calibrate by powering on the bike (but not turning it over), setting the left side to what the current voltage read, then turning the throttle all the way up and setting the voltage to the right. It did help, but I noticed a weird flat spot at around 22%. Even thou I turn the throttle on evenly and slowly, it will go up to around 22%, then nothing for a while (I still continue to turn slowly) until about 90% open (I'm guessing based on how far my wrist has turned the throttle), and then all of a sudden it goes fast to around 100% fully open. Best to have a look at the footage I recorded, and bear in mind that my wrist is slowly turning the throttle and the voltage is jumping around a bit. Also, if you turn up the volume loud you could hear a weird 'buzz'-like sound at near 90% open, which it seems is the give way area to where it goes fast to 100%. Anyone have any thoughts on this I would love to hear them.

Hey guys, 95 viffer here with 25k on the dash. very recently got the dynojet kit installed and carbs tuned. was running like a wild horse. got it done by Dave Koban, the mechanic of the famed Britton 1000. few weeks ago the bike died at a red light. had to push start it as the start button did nothing. now every time I start the bike I have to crank the throttle even with the choke pulled. I've got the plugs replaced about 2 years ago - NGK iridiums. what givses??

I have recently taken delivery of the new VFR800E. It has had its first service. At low speeds (20-40), it has a very snatchy throttle response regardless of gear/rpm: really irritating as I need to use it for commuting to/in London as well leisure. Above 50 or so it is fine. I am a tad surprised because the demonstrator I originally took out seemed ok and I have read nothing in reviews about a fuelling problem. Is anybody else having the same problem? Is there an easy fix? I'm loathe to go down the Power Commander route (maps do not appear to be available anyway).

Maybe my memory's fading, but I remember my '02 VFR being fairly smooth throughout the throttle range. And he had ALL the electrical gremlins that were associated with the harness recall! Now I I have an '09 VFR - new to me in April - with (only!) 7200 miles on it. It starts quickly and runs pretty smoothly a lot of the time. Does the 40 mile round trip to work and back daily. But - when accelerating from a stop, or opening the throttle back up after it's closed, it often hesitates, then surges when it catches. Parking lot speeds just suck. At times, when I start it, I have to give it gas very gradually or it stalls, and this is more noticeable in the afternoon leaving work in 80+ degree weather than in the morning when it's cooler. We've sync'd the starter valves (and rechecked), marbled the pair valve, and replaced the plugs. The plugs had only 5800 miles of use, but looked like they had over 30k on them. Adjusted the wax motor, then returned it to the original setting when that made no change. Air cleaner looks great, battery is a brand new Shorai. It's had Sea Foam run through it for two tanks of gas in a row. The throttle cables were lubed with Dri-Slide. The previous owner didn't ride it much, but it was garaged and well cared for - When we sync'd the starter valves the first time, the vacuum line to #3 was not connected - at the time, the bike had 5500 miles on it. When we went through the starter valve sync, and the bike still had the air cleaner off, etc., the throttle was awesomely smooth, both times, and again today when we took it all back apart to see if we'd left something loose or disconnected. After everything's reassembled, the bike briefly runs really well, but then degrades. The hesitation, stumble, and surge come back. So - what are we missing? Maybe it just likes its tank in the air and the air box removed?

Right, I'm sure someone else has answered my query somewhere on the net, but for the life of me I can't figure it out. Forgive me too, I don't know too much about altering the power of a bike. I have bought a 2010 VFR1200F two months ago and finally got it out on a south tour of UK last week. There were two things that were bugging me a bit; 1st & 2nd gear power slump, and slight on/off throttle choppy-ness when in 3rd at mid range revs. I know the power slump will easily be fixed by a Bazzaz Z-Bomb unit, at the cost of the gear indicator being wrong, but I can't figure out why 'sometimes' at mid range 3rd gear (or higher, at times) can be a bit choppy. I figure that installing a Power Commander will smooth this out, but does having the Bazzaz installed give incorrect readings to the Power Commander? Also, I've done some interwebs searchings and have come to the conclusion that a Power Commander isn't going to do much at all without the bike going to a Dyno for mapping, which is too much effort for me. Or am I wrong, by installing a Power Commander and Bazzaz with a stock bike (but with the stock exhaust flap constantly open) smooth out the power range of the bike? If so, how does a Power Commander work in that way without having to go to a Dyno, how does it know what areas would be need to be corrected? Ah, also... I'm looking into replacing the stock air filter with a K&N when it's due. I'm guessing that's going to help a bit too.