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Showing results for tags 'rr'.
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Ok so if not really sure what's up with my luck, but it's pretty bad. I'll give you the run down in the order it all happened. Had electrical problems when I first got the bike, flickering lights, and generally bad behavior. So I replaced the RR with a "OE" I got off eBay and put in the vfrness, problem solved. I took the bike to the track, RR caught fire and took the vfrness plug with it. I replaced the plug and RR with Rick's electrical RR. Problem solved. Couple of weeks later the battery just keeps dying on me over and over and it just can't seem to hold a charge, figure the RR nightmare may have cooked the battery. So I replace it, Problem not solved. So I look around and find the pins in the RR plug are loose so I mess with them but the plug is trash so I replace it. Still doesn't fix it. The bike will charge cold, but once it gets hot it stops charging. Heat soaked stator, replaced that bitch. Seemed to be charging fine so I went for a ride, 10 miles in I have a dead battery. Seconds before rolling my bike off a cliff I decided to throw on the OE RR i originally took off the bike for shits and giggles. Jump started it, rode it home, battery at 12.9 volts, problem solved. 50 miles later, I have a dead battery once again. Are both the RRs I have toast? Am I being haunted by some electrical phantom, should I try another new RR? At this point I'm ready to just give it to some kid walking down the street... Thanks for listening, if you have any advice I'll take it. Miles
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- dead battery
- rr
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So i thought I solved my electrical issues with the VFRNESS and new RR. Last RR was junk and caught on fire, replaced it with a RR from wiremybike.com. After I spliced in the new plug and put in the new RR my battery started dying on me. It would take a charge but wouldn't keep it, got it load tested and came up bad, so I replaced it. Now with the new battery I have zero volts coming back to the battery from the bike. Think it's the stator? How can I test it? Thanks, Miles
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Hi friends hopefully some of you are up late. Today I hooked up a 6 wire RR, however for reasons listed later*, I hooked up the sensor wire (black), directly to the positive battery post. I've now stored the bike and gone elsewhere I can't bring it, and am worried that with this setup, either the battery will be drained, or the RR will be toasted as it's on a closed circuit. Does anyone know that the RR would be smart enough to have an open loop in the inside circuitry when it's not charging or otherwise receiving power from the stator? THANKS! PD: *My reasoning for wiring it this way: Placed on a light or brake line as suggested elsewhere, leaves the line vulnerable to a dead fuse in that circuit, which then would cause the RR to send a full 20+ volt charge. Also; the fluctuatio in a bulb line is about 1volt, I tested!, I believe this would cause the RR to constantly hunt for the right level in a wider range, overworking its innards.
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Anybody had any issues yet? I am highly considering a Gen 8 in the future, but don't want to be among the hordes of VFR riders who enjoy bulletproof reliability while standing by the side of the road waiting on a tow truck. One would think this issue is fixed in Gen 8? I will offer a free cookie at TMAC next year to any Gen 8 rider whose RR goes out .
- 61 replies
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- just curious
- fix it already
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I'm usually not too bad with electronics (I've had to learn), but this one has me stumped. A 2002 with 70k miles, new to me, a FZ-1 fuseblock with only the on board voltmeter connected. Now the stats: VDC at idle: 13.4V VDC at 5k: 13.0V I suspected either the stator or the RR. So I inspect the stator: Ohms between pins: 0.2-0.3 on all three Ohms to ground: no continuity VAC at idle: 25ishV between all three VAC at 5k: 80-90V between all three In the interest of full disclosure, I was never able to test the RR successfully on my 3rd gen. But the stator seems good except for the VAC at 5k. But the manual says nothing about VAC, so I don't know if this is in the upper range of OK, or not. And I would think if the RR is ok, then too much VAC should give me too much VDC. Input? Opinions? Am I right, wrong?
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I have had the usual RR - stator failure one too many times now so have just invested in the Mosfet RR from Roadstercycle.com, ne OEM stator from Honda and the VFRness from wiremybike.com. I'm not the best with the spanners but can follow idiot guides. What I need to know is, if anyone has fitted these and if so do you have a how to with pics/video? From what i can tell so far, the RR is not best suited to fit in the stock position, where have you fitted yours? Any photos or help appreciated TIA Moose
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Hi all, been a while since I've posted on here. Unfortunately I come with issues, not pretty pictures... (I'll post those shortly) So, after my RR started to melt and the bike started doing weird things at start up and on the road, I decided to upgrade the RR to a mosfet style RR and to do so I purchased the VFRness and the RR from wiremybike.com. so after a bit of work installing the new harness and RR, the bike started running and starting great. Now I have a different problem.... OVERHEATING! so during a few city rides in Toronto, Canada - both totaling about 45 minutes or so, and in very cool conditions (15-20C) the bikes temp gauge had gone up to the red mark, both times! I've never seen the bike run this hot. my fan comes on but seems like its on very late... Tightwad, who supplied the RR and the VFRness, has been quite helpful, but now we're both stumped. has anyone experienced anything like this? did I inadvertently fry something during install? crossing wires or something... what could have failed to give me this type of problem? what can I do to test? is there a coolant pump on the bike? maybe that has failed? thermostat coil somehow got screwed up and now turns on the fan way too late? so, I'm hoping that anyone has some suggestions for trouble shooting, so that I can start with.. then hopefully we can get to the bottom of this.. thank you all!! ps. as I promised, pictures attached... cheers!
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- rr
- electrical
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