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Hi there ! Following a wee accident, I'm taking the chance to cherish my VFR this winter. I thought the process of repairs and the painting might interest a couple of members. Please feel free to make any suggestion Cheers ! Here are the work done so far : Plastic repairs with hot staples, reinforced with fiberglass and resin at the back

Hello all, first post here. I've recently bought myself a 5th gen. I'm loving it, but there's a bit of work ahead in order to get 'er into the condition I want, so hopefully will be getting to know people over the coming years, it seems like the place to be. Anyway, on with my post... TLDR: Finding it difficult to take a fuel sample from a 1998 VFR800fi-w, and unsure about using fuel dryer. Thanks. I'd really appreciate some advice from those with experience of using "Fuel Dryer", and/or taking samples of fuel from the tank on a 1998 VFR800fi-w My situation is this: About 2 months ago I bought a 1998 5th Gen VFR800fi-w (I'm pretty sure it's a UK model if that counts). And so, I've taken a few rides out on the bike since owning it. Although I had never gotten the bike wet until last week. And when I say wet I mean around 20 minutes in absolutely torrential rain... quite a lot of intense water exposure for a short time. I got home after my ride, myself soaked, and parked the bike in the garage, dried it down, and called it a night. The next day the weather was fine and I thought I'd take another ride, I started the bike up and let it warm for about a minute, then put it in first gear and rode about 20 meters around to the front of the house. Now, one issue with the bike is that the petrol gauge does not indicate how much petrol I have in the bike at any time, it's always stuck flashing at one bar, even when the tank is topped up... and so, I switched the engine off and opened the cap to have a look to get an idea of how much fuel I had left, and when I looked I saw that around about 3 to 5 teaspoons worth of water had settled in the little moat under the cap. It appears that the overflow outlet hole is blocked under the cap, and so the water is unable to escape. My first reaction was to panic, and immediately assume that water had gotten into the tank along with the fuel. I have not turned the key in the ignition since, and pushed the bike back into the garage. I've spoken to a friend who has a fair amount of experience in general, and he seemed confident enough in believing that there would be no water in with my fuel, after asking about the condition of the rubber seal under my petrol cap. I told him that the rubber was fine, which it is. He told me that if any water had gotten into the engine, that I would have known about it already... and that there would have been a noticeable amount of objection in the form of spluttering from the engine. But I wanted to be 100% sure before starting up my long awaited VFR and potentially destroying the engine, and in researching I arrived at a few plans of action. 1 - Siphon and drain all fuel from the engine and refill with fresh clean petrol. 2 - Take a sample of the fuel to determine if action plan 1 is necessary. 3 - Add fuel dryer and top up with fresh fuel. So I thought that action plan 2 would be the best place to start... I'd see if I could determine if there was any water in the tank at all. This is where I ran into issues caused by my lack of experience. Through a conversation with ChatGPT I was informed that I should lift up the tank (no need to fully disconnect), and that there would be hose running from the fuel pump at the underside of the tank towards the throttle body, and that this hose would have a quick disconnect coupler. All I would have to do, would be to disconnect the hose at the coupler and switch the "reds" on, and collect the small amount of fuel that would be ejected from the hose that is intended to prime the fuel injectors before the bike is started. My problem is that there is no such coupler on this hose that runs from the fuel pump, and with this it seems like it will be more difficult to collect a sample. I believe I can't just take a sample directly from the tank because if any water has indeed entered the tank it will have sunk to the bottom of the tank, water being heavier than petrol. So basically where I'm at is wanting to take a sample from the tank, and any guidance or advice of a good way to do so would be greatly appreciated. I'm also a bit unsure of whether I should use fuel dryer. My thinking here was that if any water has gotten in, it may have just been a small amount, and I could run fuel dryer to deal with such a small amount. My VFR is a 1998 bike, and so I'm concerned that the fuel dryer could cause issues with older injectors possible. At the moment, I'm not eager to do anything until I know more about what is best. Has anyone had experience, good or bad, in using fuel dryer on older fuel injected bikes? Thanks for any help in advance. I'm real keen to get out again for a ride, but I don't want to hurt my bike in anyway. Best wishes all.

Hello all! I recently bought a 95' VFR750 basket case with the intensions on having a fun daily driver and to knock a bike off of my bucket list of 'bikes to own'. After purchasing it and getting into my garage to give an in depth look over, the thing is in VERY rough shape. The bike is in pieces (hence basket case) with every electrical connection disconnected from it's original place and no service history or proof of actual mileage. The wiring has been hacked up and eaten up by mice it looks like, over the years of sitting, and after pulling the plugs I found oil on them, one heavier than the others, which concerns me. Below are some pics of the bike after it was unloaded from the truck. I got discouraged after the in depth inspection of the condition of the bike, but after looking into several threads by other members, I am confident I may be able to get this one at least running/ road worthy. The title is bonded so not too worried about returning to stock or making anything pristine, so my plans are to make it into a 'street fighter', 'naked' build. My first trial with the 'Disaster' was trying to see if it would at least crank with the battery provided after having it sit on the tender over night. That did nothing... but keeping in mind the battery hadn't been used in 4-5 years along with the rest of the bike I wasn't too concerned. I then ripped a battery out of my other bike and tried that, and got nothing. After a night of more thread reading and a further look at the manual I had another set of things to check the next day. So this morning I checked the main connections to the battery, 30 amp fuse and starter relay.. that's when I found this.. After some short video tutorials on wire/ connector repair, and keeping my VERY small budget in mind, I decided to try and salvage/ repair the existing burnt up connectors the best I could to see if I could at lease get the bike to crank. I made the below repair, using my cheap Radio Shack soldering iron I purchased several years ago, but it gave out on me halfway through the joint. So that's where I'm at, I'll purchase a new soldering iron tomorrow and get to work repairing the rest of the connectors and wires as much as I can. The community surrounding these bikes seems pretty amazing, so I'm looking forward to anyone willing to offer advice and insights and seeing if I can keep another viffer on the road.

Hi all, I just got gifted a 99 vfr800f1 and it needs some serious tlc. Can anyone tell me if they know where I could get wire connectors for the alternator wire? The previous owner cut them off. I'm on a tight budget, so I was wondering if it would be okay to just Butt connect the wires, of would it be best to get a new regulator and alternator wire? I also found a small ring shaped item near the coolant overflow tan that I could use some help identifying. Thank you all! I have attached some pictures. Thanks again. I have been wanting a bike for years. My last was an ex CHP BMW 11rtp. and I'm excited to get back on two wheels! Thanks again for any help! Mike

Hello All, I am completely stuck here and need some help. I inadvertently engaged the linked brakes on my 2007 ABS while the front calipers were removed. The center piston, left caliper, deployed but was prevented from popping out by the brake pad. I know this piston is the one actuated by the LBS and connected to the rear system. However, for the life of me I can't get the piston back into the caliper to reassemble the bike. I have opened every bleed valve I can find as well as the rear master cylinder, the piston WILL NOT BUDGE. What am I missing? I have read and re-read the Manual as well the extensive DIY thread on bleeding the system. No luck. Please advise. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but, I am completely stuck. Thanks in advance for any advice, thoughts or tips.

The ever failing tail section on my 4th gen was repaired by one of the best. Here is a link to his video.

Hey all, I just joined so no pic or profile yet but I wanted to weigh in with my tale of woe. Loud crack then engine cut out. I could shift and clutch and rollin newtral but engine seized. Piston and rod cracked. Punched a hole in the crankcase between the cylinders. this was a 98 with 49K. I am getting a 2000 engine to put in and wondered if anyone has experience with this swap. ie., the catalytic converter and something about coolant hoses under the throttle body? Will my 98 ecu work? I'm anxious to get back in the saddle since riding season is upon us in the Pacific Northwest. Thanks for any help.

Slave clutch cylinder can not be removed after undoing bolts. Seems to bge glued by gasket. Any ideas aboaut how to loosen it without broken the aluminum cover?

Has anyone used this place in Encinitas, CA called Sole Performance to resole their Sidi street boots? It says MX boots, but I called and they do street boots too. About $115 inlcuding return shipping. He says they use a thin motocross boot sole that lasts longer. Being vertically challenged, I wear out the toe area of the soles pretty quick... Linky...http://www.factoryresole.com/