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Hi Everyone. Im in the midst of my very arduous VFR streetfighter build. . One thing that needed to be done was replacing the head gaskets after pulling the top end apart (some crud fell down the intake while removing the 20 something year old carburetor boots) When i received my new ones i noticed a small difference from the original. The stock part has a small restrictor in one of the oil holes - ive pointed it out where it is in this pic - The new parts however, have a full size hole , so im wondering why the difference? anyone know what this particular hole is? oil return/oil delivery? any info here would be swell.

Hi all. As mentioned in a previous post, my 2010 G7 is starting to get very hot. Someone has suggested to me that this could be a Swarf problem as this was a known issue in the 2010. Im currently at roughly 28000miles and had the oil & filter done in the 24k service. What's the best way to check if this is the case and what can be done about it. Cheers

I just had the 600 mile service completed on my 2014 VFR 800. I asked for full synthetic oil. The service invoice says they used 10W-50 Golden Spectro. The manual calls for 10W-30. I'm annoyed. Should I be?

Well, that was an adventure, but it took a few hours longer than it should have. At least I know how to remove the side fairings now! That is a lot of bodywork just to change the oil! Make sure you figure out how those little body panel clips work before you start. They are actually pretty cool but not exactly intuitive. Biggest problem, of course, is getting the oil filter off! I am NOT happy with whoever is responsible for that design! To make it much worse, the oil filter was tightened way too much. I had to use the Phillips screwdriver method to break it loose. How much does the Honda dealer charge to change oil? I Ann seriously considering it for next time...

Gents, front right hand pipe is loose around the metal corner pipe coming from the oil cooler radiator. Need to know best way to fix, if it just a replacement hose can you suggest the best places to order one. Or if a jubilee clip will suffice. Attached a photo for more detail,

was wondering what everyone suggest for just general maintenance as well as had a few questions too! I have a 1997 vfr and the previous owner had just water instead of coolant and I want to switch it to coolant: 1.) where is the coolant reservoir located? 2.) do I need to drain the water first or can I add coolant to it? what can I add to the gas I read once about something that can keep it from getting gunked up I'm going to be away from the bike awhile, a friend is gonna take care of it and run it a bit but i still just want to be sure! I'm new to this so literally any advice would help! Thanks!!

So I am still waiting for the rain to wash away the winter salt to ride my brand new 2014 8th Gen. I plan to change my oil at around 200-300 km then again at the Honda recommended first oil change kms. I like to give it an earlier flush. The dealers around here mostly carry 10W40 motorcycle oil and almost no one has the 10W30. I picked up a 4 Lt jug of Honda G4 10W40 for the first oil change. Then I read on many forums about if it is ok or not to use 10W40 versus the Honda recommended 10W30. Of course there are thousands of wanna be oil chemists out there with about the same amount of opinions. So today I called the Honda Powersports dealer and asked their service manager the question. He said funny enough the Honda factory tech was just in the shop last week and he asked him the very same. Honda Factory tech said it was perfectly fine to use the 10W40 oil. Who runs 10W40 in their 8th gen and anyone have any issues with it?

I recantly did change the oil on my 3rd gen that I got a fev months ago. Former owner had taken the bike as trade spring 2015 and the former(former) owner had clame that the oil was changed spring 2015 and only ridden a fev hundred kms befor the trade, and the one I did buy it from had ridden about 2000kms, and now before the oil change I did about 500-600kms. So way less than 3000kms. The oil I did take out of the engine did look like this: The reason I did change was becores the engine now and then got a nocking sound, like a car whit jamed hydraulic valve lifters. After the oil change the engine runs much smoother whit less sounds. So did the formerformer owner just tel storys or can it be he did use a wrong kind of oil (to thin and syntetic) that did act like a cleaner in the engine? The bike has 75k kms on the odo.

I have read a number of threads on oil and was hoping to utilize the impressive knowledge base on the forum for options on full synthetic oils and filters for my specific needs. In other words, I would like to know what the expert community would recommend given my situation. Some ideas, while still worthy of celebration for their own intended purpose, may be less relevant (ie, you only use the VFR to ride 10 miles on straight roads with no stops once a month for coffee or Great Grandfather Ulysses used brand X in his Ural with good results). No wars, please. I would like to find a reasonable combination of the following for my specific purposes: 1. MOST IMPORTANT - Long life between changes (6K-8K miles) - I would rather spend my time riding than working on the bike. I realize the interval becomes a slippery slope as it is extended and will probably not exceed 8K. 2. Little drop off in clutch / transmission feel as the oil ages / wears. I generally ride the PACE on twisty NC mountain roads but occasionally test the limits of adhesion in more spirited form with more gear changes and WOT acceleration than average. If shifting or clutch engagement feels like crap after 2K miles (or immediately after the oil is changed as I have read in some experiences), it doesn't matter if I can safely go another 8K. If I don't enjoy the ride due to clunky shifting or grabbing/slipping clutch, I have no use for the oil. Are there aftermarket clutch plates that tolerate these issues better? 3. Long engine / transmission / clutch life should be maintained. The bike should make it to 100K+ miles without accelerated wear of parts, all other factors being equal. This is all pointless if I need an engine rebuild at 60K (now at 18K) that could have been prevented. Again, I would rather spend my time riding than working on the bike. I realize VFRs are bulletproof and one could use suntan oil (credit: Kimball), but I would rather not test this theory under extreme conditions on the middle of the Cherohala Skyway. 4. A rare track day, maybe once a year, should not have significant detrimental effect, although I would probably change the oil sooner if this is added to the mix. I care very little about the following: 1. Price. I will pay 5-6x as much for oil / filter if there is no other way to attain 6-8K mile oil change intervals with minimal drop-off in function given my riding style. I am not looking to cut corners just for the sake of spending less. That being said, if the performance results are equivalent or nearly so, I would rather pay less. If it is cheaper to have my bike towed to the dealer for service with more frequent oil changes, that would also be a deal breaker. 2. Extra noises from CCTs, etc. I generally wear ear plugs and listen to music. The major deal breaker would be the noises indicate inadequate lubrication which will accelerate part wear. 3. What a specific oil or filter was initially designed for. If there is proof the oil does the job in the VFR via objective and subjective testing, I don't care if it originally was designed for cargo planes flying rubber dog sh*t out of Hong Kong. 4. Brand loyalty, humerous ads, beautiful women in ads, sponsored riders, etc. These things can be great, but I'm not interested in confusing oil performance for marketing performance. 5. The oil increases gas mileage or horsepower ratings. These are icing on the cake. Regarding oils: I have temporarily excluded non-synthetic or semi-synthetic oils due to generally lower mileage intervals, although will consider semis if there are major performance exclusions (as above) with full synthetic options. However, I know some riders have used semi-synthetic oils due to performance issues of full synthetics. If there is evidence otherwise, please inform. I usually don't ride in extreme cold weather below 40F, or in hot weather above 100F. However, I will pay a little more for an oil capable of these tasks, all else being equal. Regarding filters: I plan on changing the filter with each oil change. Some have written the paper filters begin to degrade after mileage / time passes. I will put 6-8K miles per year on the bike, so time is less of an issue than mileage. I have noticed that Purolator put out a synthetic version (PSL series) of its popular filter to minimize degradation over longer synthetic intervals (it appears there were some initial quality control issues of overspray and sloppy glue which have been resolved, hopefully?). There was also a warning on the Purolator website to not use the Pure One filters on motorcycles, although this seems questionable. Should I use a Pure One / PSL series anyway since it otherwise seems to be a good choice to fit my criteria? Since size does seem to matter, I was planning to use the 3.5 inch model over the 2.5, since it should be able to hold more waste debris. However, I am told this can be a bit difficult with stock EVAP parts still in place (how much more difficult?). Can I still use the lobster claw style oil filter grip or is the added length only a problem with the ratchet attachment version? Will I be satisfied with the 2.5 for performance and ease of installation? Sorry for another oil thread, and please be civil. If specific oils / filters are recommended, please include reasons that will satisfy or oppose the conditions above. I especially want to hear from BR and his 100K+ machine. If I can use the same oil in my BMW K12S, which is part of the reason I want a full synthetic oil for the VFR, all the better.

Hello people... I was seeing posts about wire extensions, so, I'm noob and I don't understand anything about this theme. I saw the work done for the mello dude (i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu37/ohioriver/Statorextensions1.jpg) and I think that I will can to do something similar, but I don't know how... :( My problem... I bought a pickup coil and wires are very, very short, and I will need to do wire extensions. My problem is that these extensions stay within crankcase, where exist motor oil. Can I do wire extensions in oil?! Is there problem?! If I can, could anyone help me about will can do it? What material will I need? Help me please. Thanks. Best regards.

Hey all, My bike: 1998 VFR. I hadn't checked the oil and coolant level in a while. So I followed the Clymer manual's directions, let the bike idle for three minutes, turned it off, and waited three more minutes for all the oil to settle. While the bike was running, the oil level was in between the marks. But as the three minutes went by the level went higher and higher until it was over the maximum mark, and there was only a sliver of clear space left (my viffer has a small window that shows oil level. The last oil change was around 500 miles ago, so I should probably get an oil change anyway. How concerned should I be about the extra oil? I heard too much oil can lead to foaming, which could cause serious under lubrication. How worried should I be, considering the oil must have been at this level since the last oil change, 500 miles ago. Thanks for the help Josh

Hey y'all, I have a '98 vfr and I was wondering if you have any tips on what I should do before I start riding it again regularly. New coolant and oil? Turn off the fuel pump to just crank the engine a bit to get the oil flowing? Any ideas are appreciated. Josh

So I just got a 1986 Interceptor 500, and I apologize for my ignorance, but I was wondering if one is supposed to measure the oil level on the dipstick when upright or when on the kickstand?

After finding and reading the How-To on oil change and coolant flushing posted here I decided to go ahead and get started learning my bike. First issue to come to light is that the fairing screws are in need of replacement. Second discovery, I didn't have any clips to remove so I need to find those too. Now, to the meat of my problem. After getting the fairings off, I was just looking at every nook and cranny. You know, the thing you should do before you buy a bike? I notice it is really greasy/oily, but discount it as maybe chain oil being flung around. So I look under the bike and I see that there is fresh oil seeping. Immediately anger level jumps to the point of irrational thought. I wanted this bike so bad I wasn't my usual thorough self and I may has seriously screwed the pooch. Anyway, here is the first sight when the fairing is removed: Move in a little closer: And a different angle: Needless to say, I stopped the oil change before it started. No use putting new in if the damn thing is going to be taken apart. I just stopped, took some pictures and came inside. I didn't even try to see if they were just needing tightened. I cannot move forward until I get some direction. I am a computer nerd for godssake! Any help would be appreciated. Paul

Sorry to bother everyone with a simple question, but I've searched the site and the web to no avail. What's the torque spec for the bolts that hold on the clutch oil filter cover on the DCT? I have the service manual for the standard clutch and it doesn't say. Thanks.