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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
Found 15 results
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As many of you may have seen, we have been able to successfully reflash the 2010-13 VFR1200 (F & DCT models) with fantastic results. We have acquired an 2006-09 VFR800 ECU and have begun the process of disassembling the code. What We would like to know is: Who might be interested in having their ECU reflashed to get rid of any restrictions (ignition timing, top speed limiters, rev limits, etc.)? What, if any, issues with the 2006-09 VFR800 that we may be able to fix with an ECU reflash (for example VTEC engagement RPM, fueling, surging, of other issues in the power curve)? With this information, we will know if it is worth it to proceed working with this ECU and market, and what items to find in the ECU. I would also like to know if there is anyone with this motorcycle that might be interested in letting us run it on the dyno to test ECU modifications (it will be worth your while). I believe that we are the only aftermarket company that has reverse engineered Honda's flashing protocol to be able to flash the Honda Keihin ECUs through the harness connectors WITHOUT drilling or cutting holes in the ECU. Thanks for your time! Don Guhl Guhl Motors 717-618-4212
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Hi, Just tried to start my 2001 & the FI indicator light came on, & stayed on.. with no fuel pump primer sound whatsoever. I'm not very techy, any ideas what it might be? Thanks
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Hi, Just tried to start my 2001 & the FI indicator light came on, & stayed on.. with no fuel pump primer sound whatsoever. I'm not very techy, any ideas what it might be? Thanks
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Hello everyone, Im new to this forum, and i had a question regarding the ignition system. I would really like to know how the ignition system works because i want to instal a custom iggnition/efi system(for now i want the ignition only) with vw coil on plugs. Now for this to work I was told that these system needs a cam trigger input in order to use it on a odd firing engine. Now is my question how does original ICM know when to fire in the correct sequence when the triggerwheel rotates twice when both cams rotate once, if i know how they managed to do this I might be able to imply this on the custom ICM greeting Connor -
Help request for VFR 750F RC36II ignition system and workings
Connorhvb posted a question in Modification Questions
Hello everyone, Im new to this forum, and i had a question regarding the ignition system. I would really like to know how the ignition system works because i want to instal a custom EFI with vw coil on plugs. Now for this to work I was told that these system needs a camshaft input in order to use it on a odd firing engine. Now is my question how does original ICM know where the camshaft will be if the tooth wheel that provides input for sensor wil rotate twice when the camshaft is rotating once. Or does the ignition run in a wasted spark. And perhaps how i would be able to imply this into the EFI. I hope someone can help me figure this one out. Greetings Connor -
The more I think about this idea, the more I like it. And I know it’s not foolproof. Nothing is. But! It’ll be nifty, and a little extra protection can’t hurt. I’ve seen quite a few bike stolen posts on my local Phoenix group. Some are trailered away, others, just screwdriver in the ignition. This could thwart that. Plus, I’ve got the tinkering bug. Anywho, I want to put a hidden switch inline with the kickstand switch and ground. It’ll be under a fairing panel, and only I will know of its existence. Plus all of you folks. This way, I don’t have to fart around with the ignition, and I can just add a little extra length to a ground wire basically. Then, hypothetically I can hear a would-be thief start it, and laugh hysterically while they stall repetitively and I walk out aiming for the chest. I've searched for security, kill switch and ignition. Not a whole lot. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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So I rode my bike into work and when I went to start her for ride home. Seemed like my battery was dead... no problem there’s a jump box... famous last words... I get bike started and ride home about ten minutes. Park. Next day go to start bike. No power. Smh look down and notice my harness from ignition and start stop switch are melted and grounded out... uh o... well it’s early spring and I had just put new tires on and recovered my saddle.... so I’m thinking I’ll band aid this and just re solder ... pull everything off start soldering then decide, maybe cheap is not the way to go... So I order an aftermarket ignition (still being cheap... fu*%&$) And put it and a used switch back on. Nothing no power lights at all.... Look at main fuse looks ok. Look through ignition info that came with it, realized that this ignition works w vfr but not wired/connected as such... unplug, finish soldering original toasty ignition. Plug in, Nothing... Well that was last year... Fortunately I have another bike so I was able to ride at least part of the season... (on my bike I don’t have a new set of tires on :(. ) So my question is.... 1.What might I have f’d up either by using a boost box to jump? 2. By shorting out with improperly wired aftermarket ignition 3. Other than main fuse any other fuses or electrical components I should test first? rectifier? computer? Thanks for any insight. Much appreciated! -
Hello every one sorry for my poor english I bought a vfr750f 1987 3 month ago,it was dissassmbled and the engine was off for about a year.no spark unit no ometers then I bought the spark unit from ebay and installed the wiring. ignition switch,clutch switch and nutral indicator works the the engine starts but it wont spark how can I make this engine run I want to use in on a buggy
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Hey everyone! 1994, 24k miles on the bike, completely stock except for a Delkevic pipe and a Ricks R/R. Had this bike for about 5 years now and gotten to know it fairly well - mechanically.... and for the most part, it's behaved. Electrically, I think our relationship is just now getting started, unfortunately.... Last rode the bike back in April after changing the oil and giving it a wash. My intention that day was to burn off the "treated" winter fuel in the tank. After the wash, I put the key in the ignition and nothing - no lights on the dash, fuel pump, nothing. Tried it with the spare and it worked. Warmed up for a few minutes while I put on my gear and off I went. During the ride it rode strong, shifted well and no problems whatsoever... until I stopped to stretch my legs about 45 minutes into the ride. I put the key in and again, nothing; tried other key, nothing. Tried turning the handlebars side to side, thinking maybe a kink in the wire...nothing. The only thing that lives is the clock. Checked all the fuses on the spot, including the 30A at the starter relay - all good. Towed back to the house. I haven't had the time to tear into the bike until now. It's stripped naked, including the top fairing (headlight) open and tilted forward. I've been searching the net and this forum as best I could and tried to make as much sense as I can from the schematic in the service manual, but I'm afraid I am a bit limited here, so I'm hoping someone here can help me through this... I've gone through some connections, and they all seem good and clean, but I know I need to approach this in an organized and methodical manner so I don't get all frustrated too quick... With your help, I hope to learn how to better read, interpret and understand wiring diagrams from this thread and face the issue head on, just like I've been able to do with the mechanical things in the past. I refuse to take it to a shop and my only riding buddy is only good for riding, not wrenching! From searching, I know that I need to start with a freshly charged battery, which I've got coming tomorrow in the mail (acid on the side). So I've got my service manual, a little multi meter and finally some time to put things right again and get back on the road. What's my first step? D
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This 750 is doing my head in I've now lost all spark to the (new) plugs, and I can't figure out where or why it's happened. I've been fiddling with my carbs a bit, but not touched electrics, and now they're dead. Was running, and didn't (consciously) disturb anything. I'm getting power to the coils (B/W side). Resistance across terminals is within spec, as is resistance b/w leads. Resistance across the pulse units is within spec. To test, I've replaced at different times both coils, and pulse generators with other good units. I've swapped a CDI unit from my 1000 in case that might work, but nup. I've run power to the coils direct from the battery (to by-pass the cut-out switch) - no change. Just as a curiosity, I noticed the Clymer manual says right-hand coil is 1-3, and the wire should be yellow and b/w, but both the 750 and the 1000 have this coil on the left. I'm missing something, but my brain hurts now, and I hope someone can give me a prod. cheers
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Hi, I need help. My bike stator and r/r died months ago. I replace stator and r/r similar to previous one and installed also VFRNess. It show charging only until I increase engine speed. Then it drop charging. I made a small test drive and end of that I got misfires. Engine not worked normally. I replaced r/r with mosfet one. Now it charging as it should be. But rear cylinders not work at all. I replaced front and rear plugs and colis, still rear ones not work. I measure, that black-white wire in coil plug got 0.04 to 5 V, front got 11-12 V, so I assume that rear should also get 12 V. I was able to test another bike ECU, still no change, so probably it is not faulty ECU. I measure right after ECU gray plug on yellow wire and got also very low voltage and it seems, that voltage for that wire has dropped over time. It was 3-5 week ago, now barely 0.05V. So far, bike starts and runs on 2 cylinders, yesterday night it didn't start at all. Any idea what could causing this? If ECU is ok, is it possible that some sensor (separately front and rear?) has died? Any other thoughts? EDIT: Figure it out. Yellow wire was wrong one. Low voltage there indicate some problems in harness. Reason for my problem was broken black-white wire in harness.
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Hey all, Had a horrible summer... bike was on the fritz non-stop. burned battery, ignition cylinder out of commission etc.. due to lack of time had to get the bike into the shop and they got it running.. then it burned another batery and stranded me at canadian-american border. misery. i even thought of selling it... (horrible). well, yesterday i went into the bike and was looking over it, and noticed that one of my spark plug wires has been nicked and the casing is damaged. i turned the bike on, ran my hand near the damaged wire and got a hell of a shock. it all made sense all at once! all the electrical gremlin-ness was probably coming from this wire intermittently shorting. my question here is, what is a good replacement for these? OEM? or is there a better option? Also, while i'm at it, should i just replace all the spark plug wires, all the spark plug boots, and the ignition coils? they're most likely original and 22 yrs old (!) any suggestions are appreciated! here's a little shot of it just for the hell of it! BIG upgrade in the Corbin, courtesy of Rob from Riverside - thank you sir! cheers.
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The Rapid Bike Racing Kit is now in production and available for all VFR800 VTEC models. Confirmation of 5th and 8th gen use will be made later on. The Rapid Bike Racing features self mapping through the factory O2 sensors. It has full ignition advancing control, Advanced 18 way adjustable Quick shifter control, Engine braking adjustment and RPM limiter extension of 1000 RPMs if requested. http://rapidbike.us/t/categories/honda
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hi all, so my bike went dead yesterday upon arrival to work. that is to say, that i rode it to work, no problem - started just fine, rode fine etc. then i parked it. it rained. i went out to go for lunch, as it has dried by then, and as i put the key into the ignition, turned to START and nothing happened. no dash lights, no headlight, no crank etc. checked the battery, reads 12.7 volts. jumped the starter solenoid, and it turns over - but wont catch as the key doesn't do anything. No contact. I checked all the fuses - all of them were fine - except for the 30A on the VFRNESS that I installed a year ago. I replaced that, thinking gingerly that it was the issue - and I was let down.. Is there anything else I should be looking at, before i get to sourcing a new lockset... as it seems that the issue is in the key cylinder itself... i should mention that the bike had some issues in the past with not getting contact on the first try, and having issues after rain with the same thing. any help would be appreciated.. thank you!
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I just received my Rapid Bike 2 Module Friday and installed it yesterday. I've got some pictures and information on it, if anyone is interested. I already started a thread on vfrworld and I will post up the details here too if any of you guys are interested. The Rapid Bike module is a piggy back computer like the bazzaz and power commander but it has way more features and allows 3 dimensional mapping of both fuel and ignition curves. My Ignition map My fuel map
