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Showing results for tags 'help'.
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First off I’m completely new here so I hope I’m going about this correctly and posting in the right spot. Ok so about 2 weeks ago I went and hit the triple nickel in Ohio (state rt 555) and on my way back I came out of the store and my fuel pump wouldn’t prime which has happened in the past but not for years after repairing the burnt fuse connection so I wiggled some wires and said a few prayers and got her to prime again but then it still didn’t want to start. Had to feed it some throttle to get it to do anything and still all it wanted to do was only barely stay running on 1 cylinder and I had to hold about half throttle just to do that. After letting it sit for another 10-15 minutes or so I went back out to try it again and voila magically it started right up and ran perfect for the 200 miles i had to ride to get home. Turned the bike off and restarted it with absolutely no trouble probably 5 or 6 times on the way home but now it hasn’t ran since, just wants to only run on one cylinder now and only with lots of throttle input to get it to do that. Smells kinda flooded like that raw fuel smell afterwards. Pretty sure All my grounds are good, I just went thru the ones under the tank and the harness recall has been done. Switched ECU’s also with no luck…. Any ideas? Seems like it almost has to be wiring related. ANY info/help will be GREATLY appreciated! -
I recently purchased a red 2002 VFR800 and I am absolutely loving it! It hides its age extremely well except for one thing (which tends to be an eye sore for me); the big outdated under tail exhausts. Another issue I have with my motorcycle is it is just no loud enough. I run with a Stain-tune cat back exhaust (without the baffles) and also have the stock exhaust. Now I know I can have a custom exhaust fabricated or use a more modern style rear exhaust setup (like repurposing a R1 or Ducati TOCE setup for the VFR) and this would fix both of my issues (make it louder and get rid of the dated look, but I am a university student on a pretty tight budget when it comes to throwing money on a bike. The alternative to this is running with a cheap slip on exhaust which comes out the side. The issue with this would be the gaping hole under the tail where the old cans used to be; this just makes the motorcycle look like something is off about it. What I am proposing is to get an affordable slip on and put that on the side, and fabricate a piece to go under the tail. I would fabricate this by first making a mold around the empty tail with cardboard, filling it with expanding foam, shaving it down to fit the bike, going over the foam with fibreglass, and finally paint matching with the Italian Red Honda paint. I could also have the fibreglass part painted at a shop if it would be cheaper. I have listed the rough price estimate and a getto mock of the final product (slip on not included in the mock up). I would love to get your guys opinion on this, the level of difficulty this would be, and if this is a pipe dream or something that is actually realistic and a good idea. Thanks. Cost Estimate: - Shorty Slip On Exhaust - $100 CAD - Expanding Foam - $10 CAD - Cardboard - Free - Sandpaper and Files - Free - Fibreglass Repair Kit - $40 CAD - Primer - $10 CAD - Honda Paint - $35 CAD - Clear Coat - $15 CAD - Total - $210 Motorcycle Mockup:
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I am located in the Greater Toronto Area and I am looking to sell both the stock exhaust and the Staintune exhaust for my VFR800. How much could I get for it? I would prefer a local deal so there is lower sick of getting scammed online, but I am open to also selling online and shipping it? I thought I would ask you guys before I post with a price that is too low or too high.
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I bought a project 1996 vfr750f last year and have been working on it steadily. After about a year I’ve managed to rebuild the top half of the engine, replace the spark plugs and ignition coils, replace the dead battery, cracked windshield, rebuild the carbs (twice), replace the tires, patch the cracks in the plastics using fiberglass and epoxy, rebuilt the brakes, sand and paint the exhaust, and replace cables and lines here and there. I’ve sunk so much money into this bike and I feel still like I’m getting nowhere. Now I’m determined to sell it... I’m hoping to get around 2000-2500 out of it because she still needs a lot of cosmetic work. But mechanically she’s sound. After browsing classifieds and eBay I began to consider selling the bike for parts (as much as it pains me to do so) because it looks like she’s worth more parted out than as a whole. Any suggestions? -
my lights won't come on the only lights what are on is the side lights and everything else works theres nothing wrong with the fuses or the switches or the bulbs there is no buzzing and today I ad to get a new battery as it was dead this morning out off the blue
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Been scrounging the forums for a couple hours now and have hit a bit of a dead end, hoping someone here might be able to fill in some holes in my research. I have the cbr gauge wired in for everything except for temp. The sensor(37760-MT2-003) on the bottom left of the vfr rad is to turn on the fan and I can just leave that as is right? (does it depend on the other sensor or will it just turn on whenever it wants to?) If so, is it the little gold sensor(37750-PC1-004) that screws into the temperature casing(19311-MZ6-730) that I have to replace? Now assuming those are both correct, do I need to buy a koso sensor or is there a factory honda sensor that screws in? Looks like it just has to be the right size/threading and have two prongs. Thank you! and much love to Fotomoto and everyone that contributed to his post. -
I recently acquired a 1993 VFR750. Little rough, but good price and figured it'd be a nice project bike. I'll link the thread that the previous owner posted trying to figure it out, but basically he let it set for a couple years, and when he got back to it, the ugly starter clutch was problem arose. After he replaced it, it cranked over fine, but no spark. Since then the ICM and pulse gen coils have been replaced, and we have both been through all the troubleshooting in the manual, and still nothing.
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Not sure if this is the right topic, but I bought new pulse gen coils and went to test them according to the manual, and apparently they test bad. I was hoping anyone with a running bike could take a minute and do me a favor by measuring the resistance on their 4 pin plug? Manual says to "measure the resistance between white/yellow-yellow and yellow-white/blue terminals." the resistance should be between 200-400 ohms, but both my old and new one are reading 300 on the first, and if im measuring right, no continuity on the second set. my problem is it appears that the second set is one wire from each coil, and there doesn't seem like there should be any continuity anyways. hopefully this made sense, and also should the coils be gapped from the pickups a specific amount?
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I bought this VF500F earlier this year as a project bike and my second ever motorcycle. I have been working on making it look better and work as it did in the '80s(while modernizing where I can). I thought I was buying a 1985 VF500F, but have since found out from the MTO history documents that it is an '84. Its got 56 thousand km on it, but it runs and it was cheap. I have been told that one of the previous owners restored it using a few donor bikes and based on the frame paint and what not I'd say it has. I have been taking it apart and learning how it works so that I can fix up anything is out of date or falling apart. It has been fairly straight forward so far using guides and chatting with people on this forum, but I have a few questions and am looking for general advice. I've been thinking about the exhaust on this bike for awhile. The bike has some sort of upgraded 4-1 exhaust on it and I think I've identified it as the Hindle 4-1 pipe. It shows it's age though. There is rust pitting and an odd cloudy texture on the metal. How do I resurface the pipe? Also, the can that was on the end was a SuperTrap, but its kinda broken and I'd like something lower profile too. I have been considering leaving the end open as a straight pipe, except the end of the pipe is messed up and has an adapter bolted straight through it. To fix this I want to remove the end bit of the pipe and fab my own stainless side exit. Would this be viable? Will it mess with the tuning too much? I am aware of the carb jetting I'd need to do in order to make it work and I can do it. All that I've been reading from GAZ's topic about building his own pipe has put me off though. I'd also like to know what having this pipe means compared to stock. Besides the exhaust I am open to advice for things to fix. So far my list of things to do looks like this: Tires Repainted wheels Lights Speedometer Redone seat Chain and sprockets Wobbly clutch lever(How do I fix this?) Carb sync and clean Carb jetting Mirrors I am going to link an album of pictures here for the pipe. http://imgur.com/a/RmqqA P.S. - I am not keeping the original look of this bike, but I am a huge fan of the engineering behind the VFR series and I've wanted one of these since I first got into bikes. If anyone in Ontario needs red plastics or stock parts I can hook you up. This is an ultra-low budget D.I.Y. build, since I'm 18 and in school(before anyone suggests super sonic builders who can do it for me). Why is mine red?
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Any help would be appreciated. I am looking for placement and install advice for the Gipro-X. Thanks guys.
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So, at the end of September, I crashed my bike. It hit a wall and took quite a wallop! The white paper connector tabs are broken. My question is, has anyone tried gluing these? The cluster is absurdly expensive used and all I actually need is the white backing plate. Any ideas? I don't know what kind of plastic it is, so I don't know which glue to use, or which kind of plastic to try welding it with. Thanks.
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Hi, guys, I'm not sure if I have ever posted here, but if I haven't my apologies. I have a 2000 VFR800 Fi-Y And my flexible PCB has finally died RIP. I have managed to re-wire the dash but am having issues with the Fi Light, I've used LED bulbs to replace the halogen bulbs but for some reason, the Fi Light is glowing, I've tried different resistors and LED Bulbs and i either get a light on Glow or no light. Has anyone here ever managed to re-wire the instrument cluster, can anyone shed some light (pardon the pun) on my issues.
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Hi, I'm in a pickle. I've bought a bike and rebuilt the carbs along with some other things. I've never even heard it run and I'm soooooo close to trying to crank it over (tuned it by hand and it moves smoothly). Read the full story here. I haven't had any replies about my recent issue so I thought I'd post it in this forum...I've got some pretty itchy feet to try and turn her over on my day off today. I just need to figure out how to get the fuel feed hose to attach to the carbs. It's so simple but as you can see from my picture I'm either missing some sort of adaptor/bridging piece (? 16199-MAL-505 TUBE ?) OR the previous owner has managed to lodge a piece of plastic connector into the feed hose. I would really appreciate a guiding voice here. I'm thinking of pulling the plastic part sitting in the hose out and just connecting it to the t-joint. It seems it would make sense but I'm far from a mechanic! BJ
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Hi all, I just got gifted a 99 vfr800f1 and it needs some serious tlc. Can anyone tell me if they know where I could get wire connectors for the alternator wire? The previous owner cut them off. I'm on a tight budget, so I was wondering if it would be okay to just Butt connect the wires, of would it be best to get a new regulator and alternator wire? I also found a small ring shaped item near the coolant overflow tan that I could use some help identifying. Thank you all! I have attached some pictures. Thanks again. I have been wanting a bike for years. My last was an ex CHP BMW 11rtp. and I'm excited to get back on two wheels! Thanks again for any help! Mike
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What is the (wire/sensor)coming from behind the digital readout??
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I own a 98 vfr8f1 I bought the bike running fine but wanted to clean and freshen her up so wanting to flush the antifreeze and in doing so now the radiator does not fill up but drains into the resivour tank proceeds to fill it then pisses out the over flow hose....bike doesn't seem to run hot fan kicks on as suppose to. What's wrong....someone please help
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Fuel, temp,mileage, clock does not show up when ignition switch is turned on. Someone help with some tech info to fix this issue.
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90 vfr750f fairing conversion to f4i fairings
90vfr750fRuff posted a question in Modification Questions
Guys I'm wanting to do the f4i fairings conversion on my 1990 vfr750f. I've seen it been done before with the f4i and the cbr 600rr fairings. I'm also wanting to do the dash conversion also from the cbr 600rr that's I've seen done before also. I was hopeing someone could show me pics of the process that has been done and the list of what was used to get it all to work properly. So if anyone has any information or a 90 vfr750f that they have done the conversion on show me ur projects. Let's start a new thread about this. Thanks everyone!!! $$$ -
The GDC 6G that we built last year has been plagued by an engine that will not start after a rain. We initially thought it electrical but found some water in the oil. We wondered about head gaskets as the engine has over 65k miles on it now. They are also good. We have been getting heavy rain this year in the south. We have tried to find an area where water/rain could get into the engien and hydro-lock it unsuccessfully. This past week we confirmed that the only cylinder that is getting filled with water is the left rear. We have fabbed up various brackets and gaskets to seal the COP's to the 5G heads and do not think that rain is getting in past the COP's. We have had the airbox off more than 2 dozen times to search for issues and have had the throttle bodies off half a dozen times to look for loose hoses. We placed the bike on a rear stand for the latest round of thunder storms to eliminate the thinking that leaning on the sidestand was somehow contributing to this. We have found no loose hoses or vacuum lines that could funnel rain into the cylinder. After a heavy rain the engine will either not move at all when the start button is pushed or (if the left rear cylinder is close to the bottom of the bore) the engine will turn for less than a quarter revolution and then lock. That is not enough rotation to pull liquid in through a vacuum line or loose hose even if submerged in a container of water. Any ideas or recommendations? Our next step if we cannot solve this issue is to put the 4G back on the road for commuting and remove the engine from the frame to start over. TIA
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I have had the usual RR - stator failure one too many times now so have just invested in the Mosfet RR from Roadstercycle.com, ne OEM stator from Honda and the VFRness from wiremybike.com. I'm not the best with the spanners but can follow idiot guides. What I need to know is, if anyone has fitted these and if so do you have a how to with pics/video? From what i can tell so far, the RR is not best suited to fit in the stock position, where have you fitted yours? Any photos or help appreciated TIA Moose
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So I am replacing fork seals and changing out the springs on my 97 VFR, right fork comes apart no problem. Left fork however, is turning into a nightmare. I used an impact wrench with a 6mm hex head bit and managed to strip the head out and the bolt wont budge. I've read that some people need to drill the head off and when you pull the fork apart the the remainder of the bolt should just unscrew from the damper. So those who have done this. What size drill bit? Did you use a hand drill or drill press? Should I just take it to a machine shop? Thanks, Gary
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Greetings from Ohio! I'm planning my next Great Lakes tour, this one being around Lake Michigan, and I would like some input from Chicago-area VFRD members. I'll be riding north through Chicago during my trip, probably on a weekday, and would like to know whether I should follow I-90 to I-94 through the city, or divert to I-294 to miss downtown traffic and exits. I-294 looks longer on the map (plus there is the expense of the tolls) but there seems to be far fewer interchanges. I'm not afraid to ride in urban areas, as I've done it many times, but crossing town in the suburbs with less traffic sounds more appealing than dealing with exits every 0.5 to 1.0 miles through downtown Chicago. Advice and opinions are very welcome here. Thanks in advance for the help!
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HELP!!! I have a few to me VFR. It has 50,000 miles on it, and the one previous owner, who babied it. In the mornings when I get up, I start up my bike, leave it in neutral, and let it idol for a few minutes, usually while I wipe off the morning dew. Over the last few mornings, it wont start up right away. I will set it on half choke to get it started, but as soon as it kicks on, I return it to the choke being off, and the engine cuts off. I'll set the choke on half choke and let it idol in half choke, but when i hop on to ride it, it will cut off. Once I get going on my way to work, and for the rest of the day, I have no issues. This only seems to be in the mornings, or when I haven't rode it in awhile. I'm sure I am doing something dumbly wrong, but here's the best place to ask. Thanks, Nick
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i bought a '93 VFR 750, and is interested in Streetfighting it, and has no idea what is compatible with my bike. I am open for advice and recommendation. I wanted to upgrade the Engine, but not sure if it is a good idea. and also i was looking at a few mods done to some bike http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/62316-my-3rd-gen-frankenviffer/ & http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/66272-my-modified-vfr/ and I am impressed at what they did. I will appreciate any help i get. Thank you in advance.
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I'm trying to replace my chain. Do I have to remove the huge bolt as seen in the attached picture to properly do it? (my current issue is that I don't have a big enough wrench) I watched this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMGxMxvUTV0 And it looks like he has everything taken off. If I do need that tool can someone confirm that the bolt size is 46mm? (That's what it said in the manual) Thanks!
