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2004 6th Gen Long story short: Bike stolen. sat for a year. replaced clutch slave gasket. flushed, replaced and bled DOT 4. Rides and operates fine until about 15mins of highway riding and then the clutch starts to slip. I drop a gear to accelerate and the engine revs with no power being put down. Is it time for a new clutch? and why does it just suddenly start happening after its all warm and toasty? i didnt want to pop it all open without consulting the oracle first. thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, First post, so hi to all, I have been enjoying reading the content of the forum and have recently purchase a 1995 VFR with 73,000km on the clock. I had one brand new back in ‘96 and have come to my senses and bought another one. I have been doing all the regular maintenance for a new to me bike but am having terrible trouble bleeding the clutch. I have blead about 1.5lt of brake fluid through using a compressed air bleeder ( I did do it the traditional way first with no joy), burped the banjo bolts at the master and slave (no air evident), raised the master above the banjo and tapped it to dislodge air while pulling the lever in slowly and letting it go quickly. I have gone to the extreme and removed the master and slave from the bike to try and bleed the system. If I pull the lever quickly, I get pressure and the clutch operates, if I pull it slowly, it pulls all the way in without engaging the clutch. I have covered the slave bleed nipple in grease (around the thread) to ensure no air leaking in through the threads. I have linked a video below, and I hope some kind VFR owner has some insight into what the heck I am doing wrong.

Hello guys! I noticed strange knocking sound when clutch is not under pressure. It is coming from left side of the engine, when sitting on bike. I recorded video, hopefully you can hear knocking. Does anyone suggest what to do? i heard that a lot of vfr have this knocking, but since this is recently purchased bike for me, I don’t know what to expect. thanks for your comments IMG_3110.MOV

I recently acquired a 2007 vfr800 abs, with at least 32k miles (the odometer inconsistently tracks miles) and I recently noticed an odd problem. When I'm at a stoplight, sometimes I rev up to 9-10k when in first gear with the clutch lever pulled completely in (like to launch or wheelie, or sometimes just for fun revs) and sometimes when I do this, the clutch will engage randomly for a split second which causes an ungodly lurch forward. I'm not really sure what's going on with it, it's done this ever since I started doing revs at a stop, I had the hydraulic clutch flushed (unrelated-but because the old fluid was dirty/milky) and it's had this problem before as well as after the flush, does anybody have any idea what's going on? A second (possibly unrelated?) problem I sometimes have is when I'm banging through gears, I'll get to 3rd or 4th gear, up to about 9-10k RPM, and the bike will seem to disengage the clutch and throw me into redline, I'll let off the gas and go back on it then I'm fine. I'm not really sure what's going on with this bike, but I was hoping somebody could help me.

I do not Beliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive it! All dressed up & no where to go. So pushes the bike (gen5) out the garage, fully kitted up ready for a shake down as not been on the road since last year. Selected 1st and felt like the bike tried to move then the engine stalls. So onto the center stand we go. 1. Check clutch fluid √ 2. Bleed each banjo √ Still no clutch😭 Switched engine in N, pulled the clutch lever & selected 1st appeared to be ok till I pulled the clutch again expecting the rear wheel to slow down, no slowing down. I wouldn't mind but it was ok yesterday as I gave the chain a quick lube whilst on the center stand. 😩 So put to bed till tomorrow. Time for a sulk. 😔

Hello All, Does anyone know how the clutch space piston size of our VFRs (and other Hondas) changes over the years? I know a few numbers: - 5th gen clutch slave is 35.6mm - VTR1000 clutch slave is 35.6mm (I’m assuming as same part number) - 6th gen clutch slave is 33.5mm - Oberon clutch slave is 38mm Not sure if all 6th gens are same across the years? What about 8th gen? What about other Hondas with the same type of slave? CBRs, Blackbirds, Pan Europeans etc? I’d like to fit a bigger piston slave on my 5th gen but don’t know which one (other than Oberon). As as an aside, if you’d like a softer clutch on your 6th gen you may want to try a 5th gen slave. You’ll get longer lever travel and more modulation. Best, Stray

Hello All, Can you please school me on the difference between different models’ clutch slave cylinders? Looks to me like the early 5th gen (‘98-99) are one part number and all other models are interchangeable. But they look identical to me! Is there a difference in piston size or something? Are they all interchangeable? Oberon make a trick clutch slave for 1998-99 models only. That got me thinking there must be a difference. Looks like the early 5th gen clutch slave is shared with quite a few Hondas, like rc51 and some mid-naughties Fireblades etc. I ask ask because I’m eyeing up a nice low mileage 8th gen unit for my 1998 engine. Just want to make sure it will work! Does the clutch cover change at all? Thanks in advance, Stray

I know it has been discussed before, but not to what extent. As we know, while slipping the lever out in first, the bike raises rpm from idle to help with starting. What is the mechanism that causes this? Clutch switch? or a switch perhaps actuated by the slave cylinder? I would like to know, because I would like to be able to go back to two-fingering the lever. I used to, on other bikes, but even with my average sized hands, pulling the lever back to touch my ring and pinky, the revs increase a 100 rpm or so. I do not want to be unnecessarily slipping the clutch, so I have long since stopped the behavior. That said, while in gear, there is no discernible push forward while in first, and tholding with just two fingers.

2015 VFRD with 1200 mi. After the bike warms after being driven a bit I have noticed upon release of the clutch, and rolling on the throttle my revs will not match my speed . It feels if something is holding the bike back-no matter the amount of throttle applied. I do have ASv levers, I have checked those for adjustment they seem to be fine. Maintenance is up-to-date. I do recall hearing just after the problem initially started the sound of two plates Rubbing together. I’m thinking it might be something to do with the clutch plates but not sure- any help is appreciated. I no longer hear that sound of that of any metal objects rubbing, brakes and chain are fine..

Hey all, I have a 2014 VFR800F which has had 20000km put on it since I bought it in May last year. The bike has been excellent to me except for a few minor niggles that I can mostly live with. The only one annoying thing that I can't live with is how heavy the clutch is. It's almost stopped me commuting to work by bike since I get to work with tennis elbow which escalates to a cramped arm by the time I get home. I'm happy to take the bike for long rides with the heavy clutch but sitting in Sydney traffic when commuting kills it. The clutch feels exactly like the other new VFR800Fs in dealerships and hasn't loosened up at all. I rode a bone stock 5th gen over the weekend and the first thing I noticed was how much lighter the clutch was. Is there anyway to make it lighter? A couple of people have suggested replacing the clutch slave cylinder with an aftermarket one but they all do agree the clutch on my bike is unreasonably heavy for such a new-ish bike. So far I've tried replacing the OEM levers with Pazzo long levers then I swapped them for the short ones which did not help. I've bled the clutch to see if maybe there was air in the line. I ended up buying the quickshifter to cut down on the time i have to pull back the lever too. I haven't had this problem on any of my other bikes.

Hi there Just wondering if anyone knows if an early VFR800 clutch slave can be used on RC36's? The part numbers are different, but that doesn't mean it won't fit and work properly. Anybody got hands on experience? TIA

Many have been following my Chinese fairings build thread found here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/81765-viffercrabs-chinese-fairings-build-thread/ But, that thread is a bit lengthy, and I've taken it off topic at times, but there's one part of it that I feel deserves it's own thread, just because of the awesome sauce of it. And that's this SebSpeed clear clutch window. Many of you are familiar with him, and his work, but I, being new to the VFR world was not. I'd actually never heard of such of a thing before in my life, but I've been out of the bike world for a few years now, focusing mainly on cars and family, so it's no wonder I was a bit out of touch on the cool things going on in the bike world. During my hunt for ideas for my custom job on the fairings, somehow I fell upon a thread or two that showed the SebSpeed clear clutch cover. The very first one I saw, I knew I had to have it. It's so just damn cool, I don't care who you are, the cool factor is off the charts. My VFR was originally purchased as something to just get me back in the game, and had a little curb appeal to it. At no point, did I think it was going to morph into a full-on rebuild, but alas, he were are. I sent Seb a PM on here, and he got back to me immediately with price, timeline and the confidence that he'd help me through uninstall and reinstall of the cover. I'm a confident wrench on a car, but I'd never as much have even take a fairing off on a bike before in my entire life. After doing the full faring swap, adding exhaust, and a couple other low skill mods, I felt like with his help, we could do this. He literally gave me a play by play on how to take the cover off, take the pressure plate off, and reinstall when I get it back. I can't tell you how many messages we've exchanged. Let's just say it's a lot. I know he's getting sick of me, but to his credit, he's never let on to that, and has been nothing but helpful. More than helpful if I'm being honest. He's been holding my hand through this whole thing. Means a lot to someone like me... The day (night) came where I was going to attempt to take the cover off. Not really having the exact tool needed for the final step (a rubber mallet), I was ready to give up for the evening. He took the time away from his family to exchange how-to pics, and exact instructions on how to get it off, using less than optimal tools. He taught me a trick on how to use a 2.5 sledge and a Playboy magazine. Well, it ended up being a kids Skylanders magazine, but let's just say Playboy to make it interesting. Sure enough, did exactly what he said and BOOM, cover is off. Pressure plate is a piece of cake, not much instruction needed there. So, in a box it went, and he was even nice enough to offer to have it and my pressure plate sent of to powder for me, instead of me having to do it on my time. Again, means a lot to someone like me... Some of these pics are in my build thread, but let's put em here too, for when that thread slows down and is relegated to page 15 from the home page, never to be seen again: And here's the replacement gasket you need for the cover... And a few short days later, he sends me this picture.... Look at that work! He's a skilled dude, for sure. So now, it's off to powder coat, and then back to me. Can't stress enough how awesome he's been from start to this point. A true pro, very patient with me, and even offering his personal opinion when asked, about color and finish. Will update...

I would like to have a SebSpeed modified cover, however, I am not willing to send in my original crankcase cover and not be able to ride [while the modification is being completed] or revert to stock at a later date. Therefore, I am seeking a donor case to acquire. I have not found a case from a 1994 - 1997 VFR750F [my bike is a 1994]. However, it may be that other model year covers may fit. I found this item, HONDA VFR750 RC24 FJ/K CLUTCH ENGINE COVER CASING, on the UK eBay site which visually looks like the cover on my bike but I can't find a model number for it. On the other hand I was able to find a model number for the gasket that mates to the above part. That gasket number is: 11394-MY7-000. Partzilla shows that gasket is used for the cover on my bike. So, does anyone know if the HONDA VFR750 RC24 FJ/K CLUTCH ENGINE COVER CASING will fit my 1994 VFR750F?

Hey Riders, i have a 2003 vfr800 vtec. I noticed today that my clutch lever now has more play than before. I also noticed even when I'm in 1st gear with the lever pulled all the way in, my bike still moves forward a little. Not sure if there's a cable or fluid that needs to be adjusted. Any help on adjusting this would be awesomely appreciated!

Shifting from 1st to 2nd has been spongy after 25k on my '03 VFR. Last week I got stuck between gears and had trouble finding first after rocking the bike. I hoped that replacing the stock clutch with a Barnet performance pack would fix the problem. That was a good decision and I can tell the difference immediately. However, I made the mistake of doing maintenance outside late in the day and got hit with a thunderstorm. In a rush to button up the bike I sheared the head off the spring bolt. DO NOT tighten it past the stop! It popped with less than a 1/8th turn--stupid me. The smart fix would have been to JB weld a smaller bolt onto the stripped bolt and back it out 15 hours later. I was in a rush to make a group ride the next day (mistake #1, 2, & 3) and drilled out the bolt to work a Ryobi spiral screw extractor into it--no luck. Then I tried the JB weld method--no luck. Then I tried using a left hand bit to back out the old bolt in reverse. No luck either. My solution was to cut 1cm off a new bolt and thread it on top of the old bolt (now a plug). I have about 1.5cm of thread instead of the stock 2.5cm for the spring bolt. Underneath is a plug half the size of the original bolt. If I want stock I'd have to remove the clutch center and drill it out from the back side. And I do not have the tools to unstake the center lock nut. For peace of mind, has anyone else used a fix like this (shortened bolt on top of sheared bolt)? I was concerned the sheared bolt might back out and get thrown into the gearbox. However, it looks like the clutch outer will keep the bolt from slipping through its threads in the clutch center--thus preventing any damage. Would you ride like this?

***UPDATE! SOLVED!*** I have a 99 VFR and as far as I know it has never had a clutch job done on it. At least not in my ownership. I just replaced some really REALLY cooked clutch plates with nice Barnett ones that I had soaking in oil for at least 30min before install. Also, the kit included springs and friction plates were also installed. When I start up the bike, everything is good, the bike only starts in Neutral and the clutch lever feels nice, but i cannot rotate the back tire with the clutch lever held in. Also, when I put the bike into 1st (lever pulled in, kickstand up) from Neutral the bike stalls and the engine cuts out. As far as I know, the clutch is spinning in its basket because with the handle pulled in i can gently pull the clutch shifter up and feel the basket rotating. Any ideas? I think I need to do a clutch hydraulic flush job, but if you know of something else, please let me know. Pic related, its a clutch plate that I took out (second from last) it is supposed to have plating on it. ***UPDATE! SOLVED!***

Hey guys, the clutch lever on my '98 5th Gen is suddenly feeling different immediately after I picked it up from a laydown on the grass. Went wide in a parking lot turn after hitting an edge trap, and it just slipped out from under me and plopped onto it's left (clutch lever) side. Wasn't very hard or violent, just some shallow whtie scratches on the left fairing. But the clutch lever, which looks totally fine and undamaged to my eye, felt much weaker. It takes much less effort to pull it in, until the last 1/4 of pull when it's at the handlebar, which is also the same place the friction zone has now moved to. It used to be the clutch would engage as I let the clutch lever nearly totally out. say 3/4 all the way out. Now that friction zone of the clutch is right next to the handlebar/grip, and the rest of the clutch travel is noticablly weak. It works, I rode it the few blocks home but it worries me that the friction zone suddenly moved. What could the problem be? 1. The clutch fluid is murky/brownish (although according to owner it was replaced last season), I've been told to replace it so maybe that has something to do with it? 2. Maybe some of the air in the fluid resoivour on the grip got into the piston or fluid line to the clutch when it was tipped over and the fluid was sloshing aroudn not where it normally is? 3. When the bike did drop I somehow accidently gave it a big rev before immediately shutting it off. Probably happened when the wheel lifted into the air (adrenaline of dropping the bike clouds my memories, you guys know how it is). Could that very short hi reving have cooked the cluth somehow? 4. Lastly there is an adjuster wheel on the clutch lever. I've played with it and it doesn't seem to have helped but maybe the drop somehow moved that? Thanks for any adivce or tips, I badly need it!! - Josh

My vandalized '91 VFR has been patiently waiting in the garage for some sort of activity for nearly 2 years. In that time, I was able to scrounge up all the missing plastic the (rat-bastard) intruder stole from me. I recently tested the waters on selling it but could only muster up interest to the tune of half a month's rent, including all the plastic. That said, I decided on a rebuild v2 project and keep the bike indefinitely as a weekend runabout, part-time commuter and loaner for my out of town guests. There is too much value and nostalgia in this bike to give it away so cheap. And I still love riding it. Unfortunately, I moved to a location where I cannot work on the bike in the garage. Fortunately, there is a shop nearby that offers storage and unlimited use of full service mechanical bays, including tools and machine shop (and mechanics by the hour!). I rode the bike there a couple days ago and am now planning the build. The good thing about bringing the bike to the shop is the monthly fee is a good motivator to make timely progress. The first phase of the project is to take care of some mechanical maintenance, straighten the mounting brackets damaged by the thief and size up the new body pieces. Phase 2 is all about cosmetics. I am not yet sure if I'll stick to the factory paint scheme or do something custom. Resale value is no longer an issue so custom is looking a bit more enticing. The maintenance items are steering head bearings (already have all balls tapered on the way), fork seals (and maybe F3 internals if I can find some donor forks soon), and clutch plates (slipping when hot only under heavy load in low gears, second, third near redline). I may replace the clutch basket. I was told the "orbital" springs on the backside of the clutch basket are warn, causing a "broken connecting-rod like" knock sound at idle. No other symptoms. The knock sound goes away when the clutch lever is pulled-in at idle. These springs apparently keep the clutch basket stabilized at idle and when warn, allow the basket to bounce back and forth. Cause of the warn springs: abusive burn-outs by some dumb-dumb previous owner. I'll post what I can about the progress. I know there is already some good info here about the maintenance I need to do so I'll try to add value. And Pix.

Someone enlighten me to my stupidity. I replaced my clutch plates when I performed my last oil change. I scuffed up my metal plates, soaked the other plates in oil for 2 hours, and put everything back together with new springs. Easy cheesy. Now my clutch doesn't disengage. The only thing I can think of is that I didn't place clutch plate B in the right position. Any other ideas or recommendations on what to check?