Auspanglish

I didn't get the guides or shims, with my new chain... the ones that stop you from overpressing the faceplate on and binding the link up... anyone know the thickness of these guides so I can fab some homemade ones up...???

We want this project fully documented and photographed for posterity!!

The power/current draw will fry up your switch. Not sure how much is the amperage of the blower's motor but for sure the switch from the picture won't last for long. Not to mention that the blade-s made to have better efficiency in one direction only. Variable rot/min don't thing is an efficient idea. My thought is on lower set temp for the temp switch, manual override for on position and, if so much like, a VTR blade. I'm not so sure the switch won't last. One thing is for sure though, there is absolutely no point in reversing the stock fan's rotational direction, it will be very ineffecient. Gentlemen, let's all keep in mind that several folk from this forum have already performed many experiments in a very thorough manner. Swapping the thermoswitch out for one with a lower trigger temp has been tried and tested. The only thing one achieves with this mod is having the fan come on much more often, and this puts the electrical system under load, despite all the comments about it being an advantage running devices that use up the power the stator puts out in order to save the R/R from having to shunt it off to the frame... in theory it sounds good but I quick reminder to folks that the VTEC is famous for having a rather delicate wiring harness and many folks have seen how turning on the highbeams has fried their bike's electrical installation. Even if it is truly an advantage and does provide respite to the R/R, the problem isn't whether the fan comes on or not, it's being able to control WHEN it comes on, according to the conditions: slow traffic, traffic jams, lots of red lights, as when the bike has already heated up and the fan cycled 5 or 6 times, it has been demonstrated that it then becomes much more difficult for the fan to lower the temperature... it gets to a point where the fan is rendered useless (the temp no longer drops)... especially in hot climates like southern Spain or southern US. The fan is also rendered useless once the bike is in forward motion. I have confirmed this time and time again on both my 5th gen and 6th gen. Above 25 km/h (approx), the two opposing flows cancel out. Nill effectiveness. Reversing the fan's direction will not help, if it doesn't match the natural airlfow it will only hinder the latter (at higher speeds... at lower speeds it does improve the cooling effect). It is far more effective to have the fan shut down. Obvoiusly there is a danger to leaving the fan off. A timer or some other variable that would automatically revert the fan to normal OEM functioning would be ideal... in the absence of that, an idiot light would also be advisable. So there is an advantage to being able to control the fan on demand, both forcing it on when off and forcing it off when on as previous posters have explained. Tightwad's idea is most excellent... especially the idea of the device advising the rider that the bike's OEM installation would prefer the fan were on, and also some sort of failproof function that reverts a manual override (off when on) after either a specified period of time or some other sort of parameter like a higher, more critical temp... Obviously it is a perfectly attainable project... I have personally swapped the OEM fan blade out for the VTR one which creates an airflow in the opposite direction, which favours the natural incoming airflow when the bike is in motion... up to a certain speed... once up at over 80 km/h, it's better to just have the fan turn off. On the other hand, with the bike at a standstill, it is hardly effective at all... if the weather is warm to hot, it works for maybe 2 cycles and then the temp just climbs ever so slowly. The fan never turns off... I don't know about the shunting business but my VFR has burnt out TWO stators so far. Hopefully Josh will have one free hand someday and get this project up off the ground... I reckon it'll sell.

Holleros isn't here!! Is he??

A friend of mine has The Ducati Panigale, virtually every parameter is adjustable on that baby.. including engine braking.. and IIRR this adjustment was achieved by the system modifying The exhaust valve position.

cool!!

why not just tap into The front parking lights.. they're switched.. and that way If something goes wrong, you won't End up without headlights

Bimetal spring... the spring contracts and relaxes according to temp... pulling on the starter valves to allow more or less air into the mixture just as a choke would.

In my experience the idle drops when the bike's instrument panel starts to register a temperature. Which means around 36ºC. Below this temperature my VTEC's screen displays two hyphens. As soon as 36ºC pops up, the idle drops to the regular rpm I have my idle set to. Lately my bike is NOT activating the fast idle as it should (temps are cold enough). SOMETIMES IT DOES AND SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T. The only thing I've done to the bike lately was to synch the starter valves and I wish I hadn't, even though it was idling rough and had a lumpy response to subtle on-off-the-gas throttle inputs... 'cause since I did, the bike started backfiring and then when I resynched (had gone too far with the front left adjuster), the fast idle stopped working. The only thing I've managed to find is the rod that connects front row to rear row was slightly bent. Oh yeah, and now my idle adjuster doesn't want to be turned. Bloody VTECs... someone should blow VTECs up!! BTW Kal... no wax in that unit... it is apparently some sort of layered sandwich of unusual sounding metals that undergo some sort of change in shape or properties at different temps... read about some guy who took his apart with the idea of cleaning it and found there was no sight of wax... and on investigating he said that at some stage in the past, wax was used in such devices

More a MotoGP mod than a WSBK one!! That bike is too sexy to call it a Mr...

That shock has the same adjustability as the stock shock... preload and rebound. Fullstop.

That's what I do at the security gate at work... enter in at a slight angle and lean the bike one way, shuffle forward, and then lean it the other way and shuffle forward again... I can confirm that constantly folding them in n out will lossen them and see them fold back at speed on the road...

I thought OEM items were precision made ones... at least you claim their stators are.

Bonded onto the tip? And what if it breaks off?? :unsure:

Hola a todos: Thinking of purchasing a magnetic oil sump bolt. Have seen several on Ebay. One thing's clear is they are a M12X1.50 bolt. I have seen them available in several materials: steel, billet aluminium and the other seems to be some sort of bronze nickel coloured metal. Which material should I go with? (Price seems to be +/- US$2)

'Nother question... is there a guide on here as to how many links if going up or down on number of teeth up front or up back or both or all cases... 16/43 = 110 links Stock/+1 = ?? Stock/+2 = ?? -1/Stock = ?? -1/+1 = ?? -1/+2 = ??

Do we have a spreadsheet on the differences in speed compared to stock for each of these combos?? How do I work that out on paper (or in my head, or on a calculator...) Say for example 120 km/h stock set up = XXX km/h with -1/+2, etc...