COS_VFR

Hi COS_VFR,

Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

The photo is on VFRD, but hard to find.  When I am searching for pictures on VFRD I use google and the site: option, like this:

site: www.vfrdiscussion.com       carb

Then pick images at the top of the page that google returns.

The site: option will just search the website that comes after 'site:'

If you take a look at this picture, I think that #10 and #12 are between the throttle linkages.  I drew an arrow pointing to the one  on the right. The one on the left is hidden in this picture.

Its hard to tell how big it is, but there are some springs between the throttle linkages, look at #10 and #12 on this picture.

Hi COS_VFR,

Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Rangemaster and I made it across Nebraska and most of East Colorado, parting ways at 2:40p in Limon, CO. I just rolled into the garage at 4p.

Tony was right it was a great event.

And as one cancels , another one finally gets off the fence and confirms.  Brenda tells me that the Rocket Motel has one Queen room left and two family rooms left if anyone else  is out there trying to decide.

Hi COS_VFR,

Thank you for your donation of 100.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

I stumbled across this NC30 Fuel injection project:

https://blog.familjenjonsson.org/blog/2015/05/22/microsquirting-the-nc30-part-1-of-many/

A long but detailed account.

-Gordon

Have you considered heavier bar ends, some people think that it reduces the vibration.  Others think that it just changes the frequency, either one might help your problem.

Hi COS_VFR,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Does anyone have any experience fitting a set of Hawk bars on a 4th Gen? I bought a set and am now trying to fit them on the bike. They hit the upper fairing because they are so tall. I also have a Airtech competition upper that I'm putting on as well and it doesn't seem to be molded quite right. The bars are mainly hitting on the left bar side(clutch side). If anyone has any suggestions as to make this work I would greatly appreciate it.

I tried to fit Hawk Bars to my '96 and found they were to high. I found a set of 2000 bars that are higher than 4th Gen but still fit under the upper fairing.

Personally, I am just in the habit of tapping my brakes to let the people behind me know i am slowing down. I like a manual trans in both my cage and bike and have noticed that since most cages are auto trans, most cage drivers are used to seeing brake lights when a car is slowing down. I can be a slow learner sometimes and I have been rearended 3 times in a cage while driving in slow moving, traffic-light to traffic-light driving. I think the fact I was slowing down, but did not have the brakes on contributed to idiots behind me not paying attention. That and stopping for a redlight

what kind of glue is used? i wanna do this with my cbr954

I used silicon on the first two bikes I did, but because some people said silicon could wreck O2 sensors, I used hot-melt glue on the VFR800.

How hot does hot-melt glue need to melt?

How hot does the air filter get ?

Anyone have a problem using hot-melt glue?

Gaaaa!! All this talk has got me wanting to farkle again. I'm thinking of having a go at wiring it through the headlight flasher, and powering it from the bike's battery rather than an internal one.

By the way - this isn't my idea, so I can't take credit for it. I copied someone else's initial idea, but just did it slightly differently.

I got it working through the high beams. The contacts in my remote acted only momentarily when the button is pressed - the door doesn't continuously open and close if you hold the button down. I assume that's built in the circuitry. I took the two leads from the contact switch straight to a relay which is triggered off the high beam circuit. Even if you run with high beams it's only going to momentarily activate the opener remote.

The last time I replaced the battery in my remote I noticed that it was a 12V battery. What if you permanently shorted the switch, but then power the remote from the high beam circuit? Every time you flashed your high beams, the remote would get power and the switch would be on. Does anyone think this would work? Maybe use the horn instead.

Miguel,

I seem to remember you using a small computer, libretto maybe in your tankbag. Is the GPS to replace this?

Gordon

Yes you would be correct. Just about a month ago, I locked her down to only me, and we are to be married Oct 7th next year.

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Congratulations, yesterday marked 23yrs for the missus and me.

I dunno, can you provide more pictures of your lovely and talented spokesmodel who is carefully displaying the airbox lid?? :salesman:

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I would assume that is her in some of his gallery pictures.

I am planning on doing this mod over the winter. I have been thinking of making an adjustable spacer. What do you think?

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shock spacer

The outside dimension is 25mm across the flats. The small hole is 10mm threaded to fit the bracket mounting bolt. The Large hole is 18mm threaded to provide the adjustabe length. Minimum length is 30mm. Maximum is approximately 42mm with the half of the threaded portion inside. My first choice for material is aluminum since it would be easy to machine. Not sure if it would strong enough.

What do you think?

I have the Motion Pro carb tool, but I'm wondering if the inline restrictors are even necessary.  I agree they're recommended to keep the fluid from entering the engine (mercury in my case too), but are they needed if you don't rev the engine past 3000 or so?  Would the engine pull more vacuum on the tool if the restrictors are removed?

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