spud786

I only change filters about twice per year, but about 6 or 7 oil changes(always) under hot conditions , fairing removal, allows other clean up and checking during that time.

lol, I've given up on the clips at the bottom of the fairings and just run a long zip tie through, connecting the two of them. Learned this from back when my RC51 would loose them or I'd break them while removing the fairings. You can get very nice usable clips at autozone, no need to zip tye stuff

Commuting and touring, Ppower not the best choice, atleast on the rear. Id cross that one off. The rear road 2 cant be beat for Life + performance, Michelin is dominant in this regard. The front, a road 2 or My preferable original Ppower on the front.

Going off memory, and I could be wrong)only seen them once and werent on my list to BUY, the road 3 rear has a more triangular or more narrow profile than the road2, If my memory is correct, it may remove the slower turn in of the road 2 rear, but its just Babble unless I run one to test. But maybe , my memory remarks here, catches a thought, with someone whos ran both?

The R1 has more body room, but it does need heli bars, unless you want to lay on the tank

Well its the rear Id be after, course that 1300 bike is much heavier and longer, dont know how that factors in. I bought the last proad2 a couple weeks ago Locally, they may become scarce, the road 3 was about 10 or $15 more. Ive still have that tire on hand ready for mount, just squeaking the last few miles. But next time, I maybe ply Guinea, and maybe not >G Thanks for da Info!

One of my long time riding buddies is running the PR3 on his K1300 and he doesn't like them as much as the 2 when pushing them. BR, do you gather its a front tire thing or the rear?

I rode the bt23 GT, and I'll never get a BT 23 again, too slick on the sides , fine on straightline or big sweepers. If all one does is ride interstates and Highways, should be fine. But in the tight stuff with slick road, the 23 shows its weakness on the sides. Luckily I didnt have to ride in any real inclement cold rainy weather, it was during the summer. The bt 21 rear, which I like, stands head a shoulders over a BT23 traction wise and cut in wise. But Bridstone was after a life increase, that did happen, but the tire is not as good performance wise from my experience, not even close. NOw somebody wanted a BT23gt, cause they do 2 up alot, that situation, would probably work well, cause its a Pure tractor tire, stout son on B, worse tire I ever had to mount!

I broke my New vfr in on Rotella 5w40 syn. after about 7 oil changes, and about 8,000 miles total, I sent it to be tested. The weight had degrade to a 30 weight in 1100 miles. The wear metals were right around idea time to change, but I like atleast 2500 mile on the changes, so I beefed up the oil. End results, Rotella 5w40 in a Motorcycle, is about like a 10w40 car oil The next testing sent in, was Amsoil 15w40, with 2000 mile on the oil. Identical wear numbers on the oil as Rotella, but it also had double the milege

30psi on vfr there ya go thats why unusual, I just bought a proad 2 rear $139, Ppower rear was $120, thats $19 difference. Not double, whats the best deal you can find.

In The wet is much stronger on the power too, but I really dont care for the rear ppower for a street tire, the road 2 rear is more supportive of the weight IMO. Especially once the tire is past half life, quality of feel degrades too much. I was really dissapointed with Power rear on the back, espcially, being a 2000 mile tire in addition. The Power front and road two rear is my longevity package to keep costs down, My favorite is the power front with BT21 rear, Its such a Quick turn in package , I have a blast every time I run it. IMO, the BT21 rear, is a better option than Ppower rear for the street.

There are all sorts of ways to raise the boiling temp of the coolant, but that doesn't solve the issue of running hot and eventually overheating. )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) Ive never ever over heated and Im in Southern Texas , Not california So why not fix what youve created, or thats wrong with the bike. Cause I can tell ya there is no overheating if everythings right.

You really need the high swept peg set up for a severe lean angle or you body is going to be bent too much in the mid section, that will eventually cause you problems health wise.

THe VFR has the best throttle pull on the market, it doesn get any better, unless yours is screwed up. So benefit will not come from there. Ive said many times, twisting the bars forward and reducing the rear sweep does wonders, or get heli bars. Its that simple!

Those cheap mouse glue bords work really well in the garge for bugs and mice. One time I was working in my garage, and listening to the radio, occasionally Id hear this squeal, what is that. I looked down at the floor behind my work bench and sure ennough a mouse was stuck on the glue board with a tiny peice of cheese at his mouth, time for some crossman Pump action. but the cheap glue boards at the corners of garage door, work really well for bugs, too. I always use them.

Does your bike have the snorkel in place?

Good Job on your Video

Are stock VFR wideband or Narrow? Im totally stock, ive not messed with them at all. Sounds like the new optomisers are there in order to use the 02 sensor inputs? It would seem to me, for an auto tune to work, the o2 sensors have to also be working

When the vfr was new , after the first 300 mile dump, I ran 5w40 rotella, the oil at 1100 mile intervals till about 7,000 miles total. There are better oils to run and a hole lot cheaper , I also had the rotella tested at 1100 miles, degraded about like a 10w40 car oil in the vfr.

Negative... it's not the flim but the additives that protect lodes... until you mic the cams you're just guessing about wear... Guessing about the amount of wear I agree , there was wear, I just dont know how much . When steep squared edge cam lobes, become very rounded to tell by the eyeball, its pretty easy to notice there is wear. I ran high end group 4 synthetic in that bike for the 40,000 mile I had it , inoted at 27 ,000 mile there were signs of lobe wear, by 40,000 mile it was obvious in the rounding.

For a thousand bucks it ought to be plug and play, no adjustment necessary, nice write up though, Id rather go ride the reliable stock unit, than fk with that chit. Thankyou for saving Us >G

Well, you went from a battery that is barely addequate at 12 amp hour, to one that is defintiely sub par at 9. Cycle gear is not competive on batteries. Batterystuff.com is a good place

Id use GE brand Bulbs , avoid Phillips , and silver stars are known high failure, the ultras might be a little better. But the cost of those bulbs , is a gamble. But ive had Ge walmart in my bike for the last 50 or 60,000 miles, where I was blowing the phillips every few months.

The fan is dsigned to keep the heat off the rider, it works really well if the bike is working as it should. If your sitting in 100 degree traffic, at 223 degrees, the fan should kick in and take temp to the lower 200.s . I find the fan very effective sitting in traffic in its ability to drop the heat. But 100 degree in san antone or Austin will be hot no matter. Turn the fan the other way, the Hot air will be hitting you in the face

THe main purpose of the key is after you wind up the cct for replacement, it will lock it so it doesnt uncoil. You dont have to use it removing a cct , but you can and it will lock it while removing,