Jump to content

spud786

Members
  • Posts

    2,408
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by spud786

  1. What engine modifications did you have prior to installing the plates?
  2. Do you have aftermarket pipes, Im totally stock and Ive never seen any decel popping at all (ever)?
  3. Im totally stock, without rough running issues(never felt the need to depair), so I know the design works with out issues, the question is what is your issue.
  4. Welcome to the aftermarket stator world, it can be hit or miss,
  5. Out of the 5 tensioners Ive had, whether they made noise or not, I really couldn't tell any difference tension wise, going from old to new, they seemed about the same. The rear tensioner I had go out around 90,000 miles, had more of a knock knock sound than a rattle, the front ones have been the rattley ones.
  6. I've probably been through half dozen stock air filters running near double the recommend and none have come close to that dirty, actually have to hold them up to the light to see how dirty they are. So I cant say why yours is so bad. Being a K&N it may have sucked the nest right through the filter.
  7. A rattling cct sounds like clack , clack, clack, which the common assumption is a loose chain, this is 99% on the vfr noise issue, poses no threat to failure(atleast on the vfr no real cases of such), other than a lot of intermittent noise at times. The wind up type tensioners have been used for years on different models, Suzuki has a compression spring tensioner they produced to replace their wind up types. The compression spring tensioner provides a lot stronger direct tension, compared to the more complicated windup spring types. Chain life seems to suffer more with the compression spring types. as fas as turning out counter clockwise, how far could you turn an 1/8th turn or so(that's pretty normal), you've temporarily extend the plunger, but without the spring tension holding it out there, vibration will cause it to rotate back to nominal . If your chain was loose due to lack of tension , I would expect to see a half to a full turn ccw wise atleast and that would be extremely uncommon to see without a broken spring.
  8. The rear cct, are normally the best on longevity, the fronts are much more chronic. and without a stethoscope its really hard to tell which bank it is. Even with a stethoscope it can be a tedious to tell. The reason I know the internals of the tensioner that makes the noise is because I ran a test, to where the chain was tight enough, I could hear it rubbing hard against the guide. Did this by loosening the mounting bolts on the tensioner 2mm, this allowed the tensioner to extend taking up the slack. Then I retighten the tensioner mounting bolts forcing the tensioner even tighter, still made the noise (not a rattle now but more a knock knock rattle) and obviously the chain was very tight cause I could hear it rubbing excessively against the guide(as in dragging sound). That's how I knew, its not a loose chain causing the noise, but the tensioner itself. While the rears can eventually have issue, the fronts don't see near the fresh oil supply. Although the rear also has the same limited oil supply, its angle allows for oil to pool much more than the front. So Im not saying that you couldn't have something wrong with a low miled rear tensioner. I'm saying increasing longevity via oil flow will aide with noise and extend their lives as a means when you replace these tensioners. The oil port entering the tensioner is about 5mm, the gasket on these tensioners only allow for .5mm flow . Without good oil flow , they wear and vibrate, and many times right off the bat(at least with the fronts). Increasing that gasket hole from .5mm to 2.75mm eliminates the oil flow issue, via my testing and inspection. I wouldn't increase the oil flow more than that, but I have been building several thousand miles on the mod, on a bike that sees a lot of tight track gun and run exposure. Ive been very pleased. As to the turn out ccw I tried that about 90,000 miles ago, its a very old trick, didn't do much in my case.
  9. The old turn the cct ccw is an old trick with little to zero merit, and there is no chain noise from a loose front chain, its the body of the cct itself that rattles. Several have replaced cct's this year, I expect them all to rattle if that arnt already, definitely by winter time. Increasing the lubrication flow to the cct, is the best solve Ive seen to date, Once you ran the tentioner dry for any period its too late.
  10. The pleated filters have more surface area, so they should last longer, works the same way with AC filters. Ive ran the oem filters up to 20,000 miles, and even on replacement I cant tell a difference performance wise. Course I don't live in a dust storm area. But the EMGO, totally eliminates the pain of oem cost, and it is identical.
  11. Nope, I never found what I was looking for, it sounds like he used a worm, which is a copper wire with a 4mm magnet. I couldn't find anything with it though. Course mine was a front one missing, Im not sure if the rear one has a safe zone for the cap to hide, so glad he found it.
  12. Hello, look up the EMGO airfilter, its a direct oem copy and fit ,and they can be found for about $30 or less.
  13. Congratulations on your success!!! I can appreciate that feeling Did you hit the cap fairly easily, the hard part just getting it out?
  14. You could just squeeze the sides of the metal cap, it will fit tighter that way. Recently I ran without a cap for a few thousand miles, this pressure on the rubber tip evidently expanded it slightly, the cap I installed, fit really nice, and fairly tight, tighter than Id ever seen one fit, which is normaly just snug enough not to fall off if you turn it upside down.
  15. You might try some real Heavy weed wacker plastic string, and cut off a telescopic magnet (about 1 inch long) and duct tape it to the string. Im not sure if the rear cap has a safe zone hiding place like the front , if it falls off.
  16. The 03 drops in and out of vtec at 6800 rpm, the 06 plus goes in vtec at 6400 and goes out at 6100 rpm, that makes crusing in vtec ranges less an issue on the 06+ with dropping in and out, including getting into vtec alittle earlier. Personally it wouldnt bother me if vtec was in the 5,000 rpm range. Smoothness seems to vary from bike to bike, a purely stock bike can be smoother than a pc5 bike and vice versa. I think the lash on the vtec valves themselves aides with smoothness as they tighten. I had a friend who had his valves adjusted and that included a couple buckets on the vtecs, and he swears his vtec engagement became harsher. As for recalls, 06 plus hasn't had any recalls, so all retrofits installed are factory direct.
  17. That stator doesn't look like it has too many miles on it, are you sure its bad? Ive never seen one that nice that wasnt brand new, is it defective.
  18. It doesnt take long within an hour start to finish(i take my time) just lift the tank and remove the right side panel(disconnect stator), not hard to get it out, harder going in. I take dental floss and kind of wrap the gasket and a screw(washer) in place together. Once in place you have to cut the floss so i streams out, so how you tie it, matters. basically the floss ties the screw gasket and tentioner together then lower it down in place. Technique sensitive, but can be done. Really at most, the airbox removal would aide alot, but throttle bodies unecessary.
  19. Im about to replace another front tentioner, it has around 75,000 miles on it. Lets hope I get lucky with this next one. I had to replace a rear one, around 90,000 miles it was bad enough to make a hard knock noise, (id never had any trouble out of it till then, the front ones though have been finicky. I've going to try something this time, the pin hole in the gasket for oil passage, I enlaged it to about 2.5 to 3mm, many have been wondering about this and me too. My theory the rear is so much less an issue, cause its flooded in oil, so more oil might benefit the front to. Presently, I start the bike cold, and not noise till about a minute, then clack clack. ride 5 miles , no more noise Im think it takes time for oil to fill in that body, maybe bigger hole will aide. But at 75,000 miles on that tentioner, is probably weaking also. I damn near went manual, but I can do the autos, without removing the airbox, Ive put this off for a while(ignored it but ) 10,000 miles, I pulled into a gas station and after ride, filled up started off to head out in first gear and when I let off the gas, heavy rattle rattle, so I better just go ahead and waist $80.
  20. Just an FYI, I replaced the front tentioner, not only did i not remove the throttle bodies, I didnt even remove the air box.
  21. Yeah, I usually get 40,000 miles out of right front set(non linked), but the left side and the rear, much less(they are linked), usually about 20,000 miles on the rears and about 30,000 on the left fronts.
  22. fa 261hh is the correct rears for 6th gen from EBC also. But you originally receiced fa1261/2 , wonder what they fit? a month or so ago, my rear pads were worn, I had an old set with a few mms left, so Installed. Forgot that id done this, and sunday after riding spun my back wheel and skreech scheerch, I was down to the rotor, Oh crap. caliper was hot and so was the rotors. Had to get ebc, no one had stock. I did install the heat insulators from stock pads, ebc doesnt come with them, Anyway, when I took the pads off, I had maybe , ,0002ths of pad left, and the rotor was just kissing in one small small spot, that was enough to make everything super hot though, evidently. I guess the thickeness of the pads also effect heat build up.
  23. not really, you have to see the visual and reconize, thats time consuming, compared to immediate blast to hard wired ear. and you see have to see it The same if you saw a deer, see the visual and react, an ear connected RD is the quickest in alert
  24. When it comes to radar detector, you need the best of the best and lighting reaction time, its hard to beat a direct wire to the ear, you dont have to see it and reconise, by ear is instaneous input. Of course, then its all reaction time, in clutch situations. While I do understand the hard system desire for no wire, if I were to be tested and risked loss of money, hard to beat direct wire to the ear. As far as mounted on the Cowl area, how often do you actually look there, not often enough if you enter one of those clutch situations, but I guess better than nothing.
  25. I beg to differ, the nylon ones do have some flexibility, with mounting on the shaft. Its pretty easy to misalign and have it wobbling, Probably the reason some have only seen 6,000 miles. WHAT???? how do the nylon ones adjust?? its one solid chunk of junk mine was dead before 6000 miles.. forget 60,000!! Im over 100,000 miles and on my second one, never had one fail yet, just replaced as a proactive measure from wear.. the nylon one is a press fit , that offers some flexibility with mounting, I doubt the aftermarket aluminum would offer the same tight but flexible fit. yes they are press in.. the nylons are NOT flexible at all. they are rock hard. and every one i have replaced has been the same. not that many .. but i was working as the head tech in a honda stealership
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.