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spud786

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Posts posted by spud786

  1. I have  oem rear set on order, so we'll try this again.  In my haste of bouncing around finding an oem deal, I smudged over whether they were actually for the rear , those right fronts were $47,  its costing me $59 for these rears i just ordered, but I need them to get it done.

     

    I dont ride this bike enough, for the right front pads not to sit for years, but if I can use them on the Left Front, that lessens the pain of throwing out $50 , and not being needed.

  2. On 11/16/2023 at 2:50 PM, Lorne said:

     

    Fwiw, according to Partzilla, Honda list three different brake pads for 6th gen VFR800s:

    left front:     06456-MCW-H02

    right front:   06455-MCW-H02

    rear:             06435-MAT-016

    its a 2006 ABS model,  that would be great if the right pads will fit the left front,  I would need left pads before the right fronts.

  3. On 11/16/2023 at 2:50 PM, Lorne said:

     

    Fwiw, according to Partzilla, Honda list three different brake pads for 6th gen VFR800s:

    left front:     06456-MCW-H02

    right front:   06455-MCW-H02

    rear:             06435-MAT-016

    on abs model  L  front is a different composite, non abs both front the same.

     

    Im thinking left front softer composite, it also wears faster than right front on abs model

  4. I ordered the oem pads, found an ebay deal, and then discovered they were right fronts(non returnable).  But EBC shows same part number for their pad line(front and rear), which means the oem front pads will Physically fit on the rear, pad compound likely differnt , but I should be able to use them .

     

    Thanks for the help

  5. BLS runs mobil 5w30 , Im kinda surprised people didn't catch on, when those uoa's were posted , and how little time he had on the oil, A normal timed oil change, his numbers would have been ugly.

    They didn't look to bad , for 500 to 700 miles(that actually made them look better than they really were).

  6. , so after reading this data I'm afraid of how low my wear protection dropped on that trip.>>>>>>>

    My experience, the difference between a 5w40 and a 20w50 on (max water temps) in 100 degree heat, is one or 2 degree max. Actually to close to call as any effect at all. My vfr never sees more than 227 dgree max ever, there was one time I saw 230 degree, just a non issue.

    However I tend to run standard coolant (prestone 60 to 70% mix), where many riders are trying various concoctions, from engine ice , to water wetter and water.

    Just an non issue for me, ever, I run the same stuff in my KTM race motor also, where others seem to always have issues with boil over, although good mapping or jetting plays a role too in motor heat.

    When my KTM 500 single cylinder was new *(less than 3,000 miles), I produced less metal in a uoa with more mileage than BLS's 50,000 plus v4 , that is damn near funny. Yet he continues his quest. to enlighten.

    However my experience with light weights and high sustained rpms , light weight oils show earlier cam lobe wear , and the reason I don't run 30 weights in High Rpm Motorcycles.

    • Like 1
  7. I moved from the Rotella T6 5w-40 to Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended Performance due to the wear protection capability test data ranking M1 5w30 4th out of 176 oils tested.

    Was that in a motorcycle engine or car?

    Or if you were using Busy little shops numbers, from his uoa's, that show a lot of metal for a 700 mile max interval and really unsatisfactory. Yet he still spews the nonsense.

    Im just wondering where your getting your information from.

  8. Well, there were a few challenging things with my forks on the bike "30 minute" fork oil change. It ended up taking me hours. I need some advice on whether or not I need do it over or not.

    I'll cut out most of the details and hiccups accept for the few things that concern me with the job I did. It is a bit hard to explain but I will do my best.

    Tire off, fork oil drained. No problems. Cartridge assembly out (the oil lock piece from the bottom of the tube came up with it. Great). Everything looked good inside. Now we come to the issues.

    A. Because the forks were left on the bike and because I didn't have a long enough tool that could reach down and grab the damper rod to pump the cartridge full of oil (once there was oil in there) I ended up keeping the cartridge assembly in one piece and then just measured exactly 457ml of fork oil (as stated in the manual) using a syringe. Because I left the cartridge assembly in one piece I could not measure down 130mm into the fork tube. I just went with the 457ml.

    1. Is using the stated volume (457ml) instead of measuring down to the fork oil (130mm) going to be a problem?

    B. Because I wasn't able to pre-pump the cartridge with oil (because I didn't have a long enough tool to grab the damper rod and I because I left the cartridge assembly in one piece) I chose to just add the 457ml of fork oil and then screw on the fork cap.

    1. Is it imperative that I pre-load the cartridge with oil?

    2. I figured I could just compress the forks once everything is capped off and everything would work itself out internally? Am I wrong?

    3. Do I need to do it over and/or open the cap to relieve pressure or something? Or is this a non-issue?

    C. My spanner wrenches were so thick that I couldn't get one on the damper adjuster and one on the lock nut. The wrench would overlap because the nuts were so close. I ended up hand tightening and then doing my best to get them tight with the wrenches. I don't know how successful I was at getting them tight. I don't know that I really got them that tight.

    1. Is it going to be a problem if that nut isn't torqued down?

    D. For some reason the left drain lock bolt (on the bottom of the fork) didn't seem to go back in as deep as the one on the right side. Maybe by 1-2mm. I started them by hand so I don't think they are cross threaded.

    1. Is this acceptable?

    I rode it around the block a few times doing some hard braking and compressing the forks. It didn't bottom out or really feel any different than before the oil change. I really am not enough of a suspension expert to even know what to look or feel for when evaluating suspension. And again, I don't know if the method I used to change the oil was acceptable.

    That's all screwed up as far as im concerned for cartridge fork set up, they need to be pumped bled and oil height measured .

    and anytime you break the seals, best to replace(that's one issue I have with 30 minute oil change(your just risking seal issue). also you don't even have to even separate the forks, just to change oil., you do have to remove the legs, and the top caps and spring. No need to touch bottom fork bolt, unless your doing a complete disassembly.

  9. Having two bikes is hard, trying to find time to ride one or the other can be difficult but now that I have three,

    Its hard to make sure all get ridden, cause you normally want to reach for your favorite every ride. The displine is in doing those routine mercy rides on the others.

    Don't get rid of the vfr though, till your sure its no longer needed, a good vfr can be very difficult to replace, and may not even exist.

    I would not get rid of mine, cause its everything I need in a street bike, and it would cost me 14 grand to replace it. But its not my favorite bike I look to ride.

  10. I was just on a major quest to shed weight and the thought of never having to buy another sprocket again sold me.

    Your not going to beat the oem steel sprocket longevity(ever) its futile. Marketing and cool colors will not change that . Sidewinder built its reputation of T7076 aluminum sprockets, nice for weight but offer nothing compared to even cheap steel in longevity.

  11. When i check the internet, apparently these states adhere to California Emissions Standards

    "Other states which currently adhere to California emissions rules may choose to adopt the same mandate as well; those states include Connecticut, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Rhode Island, and Vermont."

    Does anyone positively know whether Honda places California cams or 49 state cams in bikes that were originally sold in these 9 states.

    When it comes to the vfr 6th gen, as switch mentioned they are all the same in Cal and the rest of the states.. Now when it comes to other bikes, its normally not the cams that are different but the emissions, usually a pair valve system and fuel vapor recovery sytem, required to meet Cal specs, but not necessary in other states.

  12. (((((When i removed the pair valves the metal diaphragm was crack on both heads)))))

    Maybe that was the reason, at 110,000 miles Ive never had any popping decel issues at all, deceling in any gear from high rpm, at idle or otherwise. So its strange that some bikes have issue and some bikes don't. Your case I guess the peddles weren't working correctly.

  13. I notice this is a floating disc system isn't there some play in the 'buttons ' that join the carrier to the disc?

    Before floating rotors, they were hard mounted . the floaters are not hard fixed and may show out of round till you get on the brakes and they align. Unless of course they are severely bent. That's what the rivets are for, to allow flexing to properly align.

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