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Lorne

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Posts posted by Lorne

  1. 9 minutes ago, timmythecop said:

    I also think these look wider than they are because they are buck nekkid. lines are sorted. cables are prolly OK. adapting the throttlemeisters to the bars will be the real challenge.

     

    I thought the only trouble with Throttlemeister bar ends was trying to fit them to aluminum bars, being thicker than steel.

  2. 8 minutes ago, SEBSPEED said:

     

    Possibly. Have you tried it?

     

     

    You are correct, my mistake. If the risers were rotated 180° the centre of the handlebar would still be behind the ignition switch. 

    Interference with the fork tops may be an issue, as you noted earlier.

    • Like 1
  3. Did you rotate the forks with these 'bars and check for clearance at full lock?

     

    Hard to tell from the photo just how wide your 'bars are, but they look wider than the set I got from LSL. If so, you'll probably run into issues with not just the throttle cables, but also the clutch line and the wiring harness. Take your time and double-check lock-to-lock to be sure that there are no surprises with any of these.

     

    Lorne 

     

    7 hours ago, timmythecop said:

     

    Gonna go with these and see what it feels like.  I am very interested in how the extra leverage will affect cornering.

    20190122_130651.thumb.jpg.84a797c511b8ae1519eec92d15291485.jpg

     

  4. 5 hours ago, SEBSPEED said:

    I've also found the mounting location of the bar in relation to the forks and stem changes road feel quite a bit.

     

    By itself, the mounting location has zero to do with road feel. Where your hands are located, relative to the stock position, is what matters. And that is determined by the shape of the handlebar + the mounting location.

  5. Like you, I didn't know what bend of handlebar to get. In the end I opted for LSL's AN1 bar. Not sure of the dimensions but it turns out that they suit me just fine so I haven't tried any alternatives.

     

    I found the throttle cables too short and ended up buying a set for the ST1300. Perhaps more patience and alternate routing would have resolved the problem.

     

    There is just a slight contact with the upper cowl at full lock, but no issues with the fuel tank.

     

    I still haven't gotten around to fitting bar-end weights. The AN1 bar is aluminum and the wall thickness prevents fitting the oe weights, and I haven't yet found a good alternative. Even so, the alloy bars still have much less vibration than the oe Honda 'bars. Vibration the more important reason I went to a tubular 'bar in the first place.

     

    Below is pic of my setup.

     

    Good luck,

    Df-K24356.JPG

    • Like 1
  6. 7 hours ago, Veefer800Canuck said:

    Got the fuel injectors back and reassembled everything. 

     

    Waiting on my fuel tank from Japan now, it’s the last thing I need. Been 3 months on backorder

     

    Replacing the crusty original tank, eh? Is that because you didn't trust that the interior corrosion could be sorted, or did you find a tidy replacement for a fair price?

  7. 9 hours ago, Veefer800Canuck said:

    -New Pilot Power 3’s 

     

    Rob, curious if you considered the newer Power RS. I got a set for my VTec last spring and like them a lot. The lack of tread grooves was disconcerting but not noticeable even on damp roads. Steering was a little heavier than remembered with PP3 or 2CT, I assume due to the rounder front profile. Lifespan looks to be better - 7300 km so far (most during last years trek to Monterey).

  8. 7 hours ago, bykemike said:

    I understand the why and wont ask that, myself, I would be thinking it might be more successful getting an FI engine from a later bike and installing the whole deal in the gen 4.

     

    No-can-do, BM, the RC36 and RC46 motors are too different physically. You'd have better luck trying to swap bodywork, i.e. no chance at all. Or at least no chance to have anything other than a dog's breakfast as a result.

  9. BiKenG, I admire your optimism. The oe VFR800 ECU may be persnickety if it doesn't see everything normally connected - the instrument panel for example. To minimize had scratching, it seems prudent to avoid any unnecessary complications so deep-6 the Pc or other modifier 'til after you are able to fire it up. Ideally, you have a running donor bike to play around with before committing surgery.

     

    Camshafts rotate at half the speed of the crankshaft so that is probably a no-go. The cam sensor also requires accurate positioning. 

    Another task will be fitting the fuel pump into the 4th gens tank, along with the supply and return lines.

     

    Btw, the boys at Mighty Car Mods have fit FI to a lot of projects (none motorcycles, sadly) but they provide some context. They use aftermarket ECUs from Haltech which greatly simplifies tuning & set-up.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/mightycarmods  (look for parts 7 & 9 of Gramps the 11 Second Car) Actually if you have time watch all their videos.

    http://www.haltech.com/tech/

     

    Good luck, I look forward to your odyssey.

  10. Congratulations on finding such a tidy VTR, Rob. It looks fantastic as is, but I can see it has an awesome future in store.

    SP1 or SP2? I've read good arguments in favour of each. A Brit mag recently called them under appreciated classics that will only rise in value. 

    Terrific choice of wheels, btw.

     

    This Sport Rider article might give a few more ideas, though you've no doubt done massive research already:

    http://www.sportrider.com/honda-rc51-rvt1000r-great-sportbikes-past

    • Like 1
  11. Thanks, John. I was surprised to see that the VTEC used a 16T sprocket and the 5th gen. 800 used a 17T. Then I remembered that one of the changes to the VTEC series was to the transmission gearing. Sure enough, the service manuals show that the VTEC has marginally lower gearing in 3rd through 6th. The result being near identical mph/1000 rpm in top gear. Nice to know that I could swap a 17T into my VTEC and reduces revs on the highway.

  12. Iirc, there was a lot of sturm und drang regarding the additives thought necessary for motorcycle gearboxes & wet clutch. And that the lighter oils are least likely to contain them. As I recall that is when some argued in favour of diesel-rated oil.

    Personally, I've been using Motul 10/40 semi but you have me thinking it might be time to go light.

  13. Today's wx made for a good rainy day project - new front brake pads for my 2009 VFR800 - fwiw, I used Galfer FD344-G1380.

    A couple of notes:

    1.The new pads might be ever so slightly thicker as it was a bear to get enough clearance to fit the new ones. Might be worthwhile pulling the calipers for a good cleaning next time.

    2. The pad pin on my '09 is one piece, with a 6 mm bolt head. No rubber/metal plug hiding an allen bolt.

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