-
Posts
1,833 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
119
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Gallery
Blogs
Downloads
Events
Everything posted by Captain 80s
-
Yes. Gotta have something that can survive a fuel spill on the gas tank and graphics. This a true 2 part clear that you "activate" by punching a button to let the 2 parts mix. You have about 24 hours to use it after activating, but I have used a leftover can a few days later on small brackets.
-
I'm not a pro painter, but a pretty damn decent self taught. I would prob scuff the whole tank and and sand-prime-sand/scuff just the area under the petcock. Mask and paint from the new line down and re-scuff the new paint and sand the masking line down. Lay down your graphics and 2K clear the whole tank.
-
Well... I'll know about a match fairly soon. Probably shoot the VFR fender on the VF1000R. If it's not a perfect match, it won't really matter. It's not sharing a panel seam with something else that is Shasta White. Maybe I'll do a small spray out on something when I'm shooting some 1992 VFR stuff hopefully this weekend.
-
Go for it. Everything you've done so far is pretty sano. If you don't like it, you'll know.
-
Is the temp gauge as deep? Maybe swap locations.
-
I think it's kinda cool. Def unique. But would you have to modify an inner fairing panel for clearance?
-
What rear tire are you gonna mate up with that bias front? That's a 4.5x17 rear? And a 2.5x16 front?
-
Very nice!! I hope the very oddly placed HRC sticker on the forks came off, not on. Either way, sweet VFR. Enjoy.
-
Why don't you just jump the bike with your known good independent 12V supply and see if it cranks and starts normally? Or did I miss that you already tried?
-
Sure sounds like a weak / bad battery. Classic.
-
If by "this" you are referring to the 86/87 VFR bodywork on the Airtech site... then, yes. Again, REMEMBER, it is NOT bolt on. There are no holes drilled, no mounting hardware supplied. no mounts for the headlight. This is racing bodywork that CAN be made to work on a street bike. I think your time an and money will be better spent sourcing some original bodywork off of eBay, even if it is scraped and cracked. They can be repaired and will mount much easier and better. But, it's your time and money. Good luck. Get the bike running good first, I don't think "water" is/was your problem.
-
Yeah, mentioned earlier... Riding the bicycle watching motorcycle racing. Have to get my cardio and weights done in the morning, or it doesn't happen.
-
-
-
-
I always wanted one since working at the Honda shop starting in the early 90s. Got to ride them and work on them. Was just always waiting for the right one, in the right shape (solid bones, but not nice enough to demand all the money). Well the first came along and was the perfect candidate, and I got to do the mods I always wanted to do. Absolutely love it. The second one was exactly why I have multiple VFRs. Not actively pursuing, but opportunities present themselves that you just can't afford to let get away.
-
Actually... hold on! You have to standing above for the lines to match. All original paint and graphics.
-
-
Paints that don't require a multiple stages to get the color right. Like a colored base coat and/or a special top coat, like a very translucent pearl. Sold white, no pearl or metallic, is pretty easy to shoot, and hides flaws and contamination really good. Your tape lines look pretty on. I'll compare a straight side look on my 86, but Honda usually has it's stripes configured for straight from the side. Look for a Duplicolor non-metallic white in a can to match up. They offer quite a few. I've got one I am gonna try for that white fairly soon. Not sure which one I picked out (will verify), but GM Arctic White is supposed to be pretty damn close to Shasta White.