Captain 80s

4 hours ago, Bombax said:

In addition to this, there is one full of gasoline that wasn't there.

"one" what?

Is this bike coming out of Winter storage for Spring by any chance?

Sounds like you need the carbs cleaned/rebuilt. 

Yes, and...

After changing the oil, you need to RIDE for a good 45 minutes at full operating temperature to remove any moisture from the crankcases (provided you do not have any issues).  Running a bike in the driveway, even until the fans come on, typically introduces moisture.  That's why short trips on vehicles is so bad for them and their exhaust systems.

Well, shit.

With a way to support the bike, and get it back up after, remove the fork caps and lower the front of the bike as far as it will go.

The room you have left is where a radiator needs to fit.

I don't know, but according to the writing on the tank, Stephanie gives all her love.

38 minutes ago, Lorne said:

Despite appearances, I am not praying but it's clear why I never had an acting career.

 

 

Because you were trying to act like you were praying?

If you are going to try that route, be sure to bend that damaged part of the bracket back down so it doesn't interfere with the fuel sender plate and prevent it from compressing the new o-ring as much as possible.  Probably bend it down a little farther than it's original position, but still allow the flange to install.  

Fill the tank with a good amount of fuel and set it on some newspaper over night somewhere that possible fumes would be ok.  You'll know if it leaks or not.  And don't try and use any sealant, it won't help. 

The "nut" is what came off of the stud.

Judging by the interior of that tank, this may may the smaller problem.  But if you could cut the stud off flush and get it to release from the bracket, you maybe be able to slide a nut under and then use the perfect length bolt to secure that corner.

You also might be able to use an SAE die instead of metric and get some decent threads for an SAE nut.  CAREFULLY "tighten" that one first with good Loc-Tite.  Let it cure overnight and then tighten the remaining 3 good nuts / studs.

There is also a good chance that with a brand new o-ring, 3 good mounts might compress and seal. 

How about a better shot from the side clearly showing the damage

You can get some pre-formed reinforced fuel tubing in different sizes that comes in a piece with varying angles and bends.  Something might be workable.

Also when I just Googled "preformed fuel line" some interesting stuff came up too.

30 minutes ago, Mohawk said:

☹️  Discovered I have a broken Carbon rear wheel 😳 😭

Ouch.  Sorry dude.

Oops you're right.  Got mixed up.  Just confirmed here too.  90 - 97 VFR then.

8 hours ago, keny said:

Thanks for this information, for some reason I did miss you post.

When you say you could have used a later VFR upper triple you referring to a 5th gen? Interesting if it has same offset.

How much is the offsets difference between the 88-89 VFR triple to the cbr600/1000/vfr750 90-> ?

 

The 88/89 VFR shares the same width / offset as the 90 - 97 VFR and the 90 - 96 CBR1000.

The 91 - 98 CBR600 is different.  Same width, less offset.

Hi Captain 80s,

Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

On 86/87 RC24 VFRs to use the CBR wheel with the stock forks you have to have about 5-6 mm machined off of the disc mounts.

Not worth over hauling, and if its "stuck" there's nothing you can do about it.  Damping circuits are internal.

Either try and find a used aftermarket (Fox, Works, Ohlins, etc) and have it rebuilt or go with something new (YSS, Hagon, Wilburs, etc).

I go both routes and have rebuilt Fox and Ohlins on a few bikes, but I have also put YSS on about six bikes and am very happy.  Great value.

biketyresuk eBay seller is the store front for the UK R&D Center for YSS, Firefox Racing.  I have bought them all thru them and have had great service.

Those are cool bars, love the hinge.

Whats the plan for handlebars?

Looking so good!!   Very cool.  Loving it.

I know exactly what you're talking about.  That epoxy job was a "oh shit, I need this done right now for tomorrow" job, always meant to be revisited and correctly redone.  The epoxy was the right stuff, just no reinforcement plan in the moment.  Was just trying to keep the pieces from literally falling apart.  The fact that it lasted this long is pretty remarkable.  That plastic and that epoxy are perfect mates.

I think that "fabric" is a good application for those areas.  I was even planning on making some plastic "donuts" to go around the mounts on the back side for additional strength.

1 minute ago, tsmitty said:

Too cold in the garage to spray the clear...and waiting for the UPS dude...

Yeah, don't waste a can in too cold / humid conditions.

I typically put my fan switches on the left so I can "work the controls" in flight.  But it's not like I'm constantly on / off either.  And I usually reach down sitting at a light anyway.

Looks good! 

Heavy Metal       <click me

Congrats.  Have a great Spring and Summer.

The Snow Blower is just glad to have another Honda to talk to at night.

4 minutes ago, tsmitty said:

The black wheel paint says 6 days to cure. Do I have to wait until then to apply that 2x clear? 

Nah.  I've done it after a couple days on the 1992 VFR footpeg brackets and pedals.