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JES_VFR

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Posts posted by JES_VFR

  1. Sorry if I'm asking questions that have been answered in this or the other threads, but I'm just getting back to this after last years crash.

    Finally got the '01 back and the autotune module is dead, so I have to do something about the tuning.

    Now I can't say I'm not shocked and surprised that the RB units can not do gear by gear on the VFR. The PCV can do it without the gear position sensor, they just tap into the Tach signal and the speed sensor and compare to some stored gear ranges and know the gear your in.

    Why can't the RB units do the same??

    Also is the issue with the 5th gen's narrow band sensors not trimming fuel related to how seldom the 5th gen ECM is in closed loop mode? The 6th gens go into closed loop mode a lot more often to meet the later emissions standards.

  2. I went ahead and buttoned everything up and put a "T" in my fuel feed line permanently for easy fuel pressure readings later. I now have 40.5 psi fuel pressure (up from 36 psi stock. Shoot for about a 3.6-5 psi increase with this mod, or approx 10% over stock pressure), and the bike starts and runs beautifully.

    Can you give us a picture of the "T" fitting in the fuel line??

    I need to check the pressure on my '01.

    I will probably want to do it on the '99, as well as a C14 that I'm instrumenting for some research work.

    KISS principle would be best to get gauges on these bikes.

  3. I cant find the FPR for my 01 vfr800 fi can you send me a link or do they still sell them?

    Turbo City no longer makes them.

    But since they were just a squished OEM FPR your best bet would be just squish the one on your bike.

    I have a spare I'm going to try mashing, then see how it does on my '01.

    The PCV I have is running Autotune, so the FPR should just sharpen the tune.

  4. Update: Bike with PCIII runs great; bike with PCV runs bad (same A&A-modified base map, which was created as a PCIII map). I've converted the PCIII map using the PCV software a couple of times, so at least it is consistently bad, but I have no idea what is wrong at this point.

    One potential cause I'm considering is the PCV's requirement (?) to tap into the speed sensor and water temperature sender wires on the VFR: the PCV instructions are written for an '09 VTEC, but I've determined which of my Y2k's wires are the equivalent (it was pretty easy, given access to wiring diagrams for both bikes and the fact that Honda used the same wire colors) and tapped into those wires at the gray PGM-FI connector. However, I managed to damage my gray connector whilst removing the wire terminals, such that one of these wires backs out of the connector when it is attached to the PGM-FI unit. Accordingly, my speedo readout and odometer do not get the speed signal. (Wiring harness from eBay on its way...) When I first got the bike running with the PCV I did not have either of these sender wires connected, either, so I'm wondering if the problem isn't the PCV map conversion, but the lack of these signals being fed to the PCV?

    One other thing I can try is to take the Autotune out of the circuit (I'm not sure it's even working at this point), but I think I tried that in the beginning with no difference.

    Ho hum, another project bike day at the office... smile.png

    Ciao,

    I'd bet that there are a bunch of cells that have funky trims after the conversion from the pcIII map.

    When I got my PCV on my VFR, I forget who's map I copied and converted, only to have it run like crap.

    Then I hand copied the cells from the PCIII to the PCV and surprise it was a world better.

    Also don't forget to get Coderiter's vacuum switch to cycle the autotune off on long closed throttle operations.

    Otherwise you will have a stumble that seems to move all over the place.

    I wish there was a way to convert PCIII map to a target AF table.

    My '99 is supposed to have one of the best PCIII maps in existence for TBR exhaust.

    But if I want to run the Autotune, I have to translate each of the cells to an AF ratio.

    Anybody out their have a way to do that???

  5. In my experience, more bikes just means more unfinished projects! :tongue:

    I just realised that I probably don't have a map installed in the PCV, which could explain the poor fueling... :ohmy: This is what happens when there are long delays between days working on the install, I guess. Time to steal the wife's laptop for a little garage action!

    As for the next stage, it will probably be the front forks, as the Penske out back is making the OEM front forks feel entirely inadequate. Hope I've got all of the RC51 swap parts...

    Ciao,

    Oh agreed, more bikes or more anything else equals more projects....

    That's why I'm swapping my RC51 that I never had time to make a track bike out of for a second 5th gen.

    It not gaining a new bike so much as gaining another VFR.

    It will be good for running around town on AND as a mockup dummy for projects.

  6. Well if you put it on the dyno, You should be able to see the flat spot you mentioned.

    As well as deal with any single cell anomalies in the PCV map worked out.

    Congratulations on getting it running in the end. I just had a freshly cleaned injector fail on a friends car, sticking wide opened.

    It's very frustrating when that happens, particularly when its a vendor you deal with often and they do provide before/ after documentation.

    I'm about to swap the RC51 for another 5th gen, so that I can keep riding while I take care of projects.

    Any updates on the HID projectors??

  7. Killer bike mods but who's in peril? ...sorry... ?

    I'm guessing mostly his driver's license . . . biggrin.gif

    Having gotten to compare the Phase I Torocharger to a stock bike, I'd say that punk up the road on a zx10/gsxr1000 or that ilk.

    Sorry for the delay but I will check with Dan in about a week to see if he'd be interested in fabing up headers.

    Please do as finding copies of the Erion or TBR headers is getting harder and harder

    I'd love a reasonably priced copy of the Erion or TBR. I'd love to do the underseat exhaust, but I've already seconded that space for my HHO cell so I'm stuck with either a narrow oval high pipe or standard angle low pipe option.

    Digging the coolant hoses! I have to do mine as I have a leak in the V (again). Thinking of going this route.

    Any tips? I culled the list from the thread you mentioned, I'll source them locally if I can.

    Any additions to the list above?

    JZH said there was a smaller diameter hose that needed a 180 bend that he did not source.

    And Trav, can you post where you manage to source them please?

    My local source is hung up on the Samco hoses.

  8. Well I swapped out the back ground panel bulbs for these

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-xHP5.htm

    And 3 of the idiot lights with these

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F74-xHP.html

    And for the turnsignal idicators on I used these.

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FWLED-x4.htm

    My flashers were already cycling fast because I have LED's in the back, and I'm adding flush mounted led lights upfront, so I also grabbed one of these.

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FLFS-1-FLAT.html

    This module plugged right into the '01 harness and the flashing is slowed back down to a normal rate.

    The only bulb I did not replace was the FI light.

    As others have said it glows all time when you try to use a LED.

    I still have a couple of extra 74 base LED's so I may try adding some resistance to the FI circuit to make it work with the LED.

    but for now everything in the panel works so I'd rather just get it back together.

  9. Well, if you gona do it, make sure that you pick the ones with diffuser at the top. If you don't you will have some very bright spots shining through. Those things are BRIIIIGHT! And if you try to use dremel to create said diffuser after you've soldered them in, they will come out along with the track of the PCB. Ask me how I know...

    P.S.

    I'm not sure about lower wattage. Same voltage, same resistance (achieved by using extra resistor) = same wattage. No?

    Well I've used some 4 led, side firing ones in my cars and they worked well, very bright, but even lighting.

    I'm trying to find them again, but so far no luck.

    As for lower wattage, I don't use load resistors or the LEDS that have them. Mostly because as KPerham said, it just defeats the purpose.

    Now for the FI light and/or the turnsignals, I'm surprised there is that much voltage in what should be a switched circuit.

    I wonder if it is some sort of back current, given the crappy grounds of the 5th gen.

    Anyway thanks for the input everyone

  10. Well, I've got one dead 194 bulb behind both the speedo and tach, so they both have been sort of dim at night.

    I'm lazy enough that I was in no rush to dig in and replace it, but since I have the instrument panel out in the middle of repairs from the crash, I should take care of it.

    I just figured that I've had better luck with led's in two of my cars and they use less wattage compared to the regular lights.

    I'm not going blue, but I'll probably go bright white.

  11. While I have the Meters out of the bike, I'm going to change the bulbs for LED's

    I found the printed copy of KPerham's led list, which seems to have been lost.

    I notice that he says not to use LEDs for the FI light and the turn signal indicators.

    Did this ever get sorted out??

    Also does using a non-load sensitive flasher solve the problem.

  12. Nice work,

    I do like the gear indicator as it might keep me from hunting for that 7th gear on long slab rides.

    But that's just another farkle that will go on the never ending list.

  13. I thought that Scott had already checked the peak primary voltage and current.

    Not yet - me and Kostritzer were giving suggestions on how to go about it locally. I mean, heck I've got an oscilloscope and low amp current probe but I'm a bit far away. :)

    Oh yeah, you mentioned a small inexpensive oscilloscope didn't you.

    Can you shoot me a PM with the brand and if possible a link of a vendor to purchase it from?

    The shop ones I keep seeing are way beyond the tool budget for now.

  14. Never mind what the GSXR uses for a plug gap!!

    IF you test one of these COP's connected to the VFR, what does the spark look like??

    Is it bright blue white with a vicious snap?

    Hang on. What you're saying means that you know that over-charging the primary coil results in a higher voltage in the secondary winding. Which also means that we're assuming that over-charging the coil is cool.

    Shouldn't we focus on confirming that's fine first, and then worry about the spark gap adjustment to compensate for the higher voltage?

    I wasn't suggesting overcharging the primary. I thought that Scott had already checked the peak primary voltage and current.

    Yes lets make sure that the primary is operating at the correct current. Then look at the spark gap to peak the secondary windings output.

    If I've jumped ahead, sorry my bad...

    My point was that Scott has changed the coil, so he has to look at what he has on the VFR, not what the coil is supposed to work with on the GSXR.

  15. No because I believe the gsxr uses the same gapping. I'll double check once I get back into town.

    Never mind what the GSXR uses for a plug gap!!

    IF you test one of these COP's connected to the VFR, what does the spark look like??

    Is it bright blue white with a vicious snap?

  16. Just a thought here, mostly directed to rangerscott69

    Did you change the spark plug gap at all?

    the lower resistance in the primary winding of the COP will increase the potential high voltage in the secondary coil.

    If you don't open up the spark plug gap, your going to get a long yellowish buzzing spark, which you don't want.

    You want to open up that gap a few thousands (I'd try steps of .002"), to get that spark back to a nice bright blue white arc that "snaps".

    I see it all the time with the younger guys in my car clubs.

    The get new heavy duty COP's with low resistance primary windings and then complain that their rides are sluggish.

    The ford/lincoln guys particularly seem to suffer from this as OEM ford COP's are crap.

  17. Sorry, I've been busy planning a carb rebuild and a usd fork conversion on my son Alex's GS700e.

    Well, the lenses are not glass... Still, the plastic could melt or discolour--which would be bad!

    Yes that would be bad, I'd hate to have polish my bike's headlight 'glass' as often as I have to do my car's.

    The OEM projectors I've seen are all designed to be sealed into a waterproof plastic housing. Mine are bare metal, for sure. I would not consider them weatherproof.

    Okay, had not thought of that, I thought that the back halves were sealed like the back half of a conventional head light.

    Yes, I discussed these below. Mine don't have two adjustment systems--the projectors are adjusted using the OEM adjusters.

    Okay I've got it now, It just wasn't 100% clear before which adjustment system you were planning on using.

    That would effect how far out the back of the headlight you can go with the projector housing as well I guess.

    Who do you think I am, Mr Wizard? :laughing6-hehe:

    Mr Wizard? No, I just thought that you'd be proactive and test it with say steam from a tea kettle or a cool humidifier before its all bolted back into the bike and fixing a leak becomes a double effort.

    I've been there with the clear lenses on my last two fords products. One the oem sealant gave up three times (dealer reapplied it the first time, I did the second) before I just decided to use an epoxy putty to bond and seal the lens to the reflector housing. If I ever decide to put HID projectors into those lights, I'll have to land a new set on ebay first as those are never coming apart.

    I'm working with Matt of The Retrofit Source on this issue now. The Mitsubishi igniters are more like D1S bulb units, AFAIK, so their ballasts are like D1S ballasts. That means that the small aftermarket ballasts (which are nearly all designed for D2S) won't work. I have some D1S ballasts already, so those might work. Size is one consideration, but also connectors and sealing are important. Still researching this...

    Just offering since I live right around the corner from the vendor that we sourced HID components from when I worked at the dealerships.

    I've looked into the delay relays Tightwad is using, but I think I'll just use a UK-spec headlight switch instead. Which means I just leave the headlights off until the bike starts, and then switch them on. However, I have also noticed that on some cars, such as my wife's '08 Golf R32, when the lights are set to "Automatic" the OEM xenons are allowed to go on and off willy nilly when the doors are unlocked, and also when the car starts, so clearly something is different with the newer OEM xenon systems or the manufacturers have decided the "bulb-life problem" is a non-issue after all. Maybe they just want to sell more HID capsules! In any case, the amount my bikes are actually ridden it won't matter one jot... :biggrin:

    My buddies Mitsu waits about 10 seconds after startup before the headlights will come on.

    I can't tell on another friend's Lincoln since the automatic eye for lights was knocked out by an overly aggressive windshield glass repairmen.

  18. Why did you install them so far forward in the housing?

    I understand these lights don't need the reflectors at all to focus the light pattern, so their position fore/aft is not critical to the pattern produced, but I would have tried to move them as far aft in the housing as possible to disperse the hot spot on the front lens as much as possible. There is some space behind the headlight housing and the front forks on the VFR, space I would think would greatly help manage any heat issues.

    I realize they are mounted fairly far forward, and TBH I don't know if that will create a problem with heat. However, HIDs don't get that hot, as a rule, and the potential heat source is quite far back from the front of the glass projector lens. The location was the result of positioning the projectors so that they didn't stick out the back of the headlamp housing. That is important for three reasons, the first being sealing, the second being clearance for adjustment and the third being interchangeability with my ST1300.

    I wasn't thinking about the heat from the HID in the projector, I was thinking about the heat generated by light focused on the headlight assembly glass. I've cracked headlight glass using a scratch and a magnifying glass on a bright sunny day (ssshhh don't tell).

    It is very important to be able to re-seal the headlamp unit if you want to have the retrofit last for any length of time in the real world. I've found some Hella rubber caps that fit over the OEM headlamp's bulb access openings and completely seal the housing. I could also have used the OEM rubber caps with some sort of bottle cap-type plug wire-tied in the middle, but this way there is nothing protruding from the back (I also did not know how much room I had to play with behind the unit).

    Secondly, with parts sticking through the rear opening, there could be interference with the adjustability of the projectors--at least in theory--though this could be ruled out once everything is mounted to a bike and tested. Finally, I wanted to use the same set-up for my ST1300, which uses the exact same reflectors and a similar adjustment system.

    Perhaps with shorter projectors, I could move them back a bit (it would just require making some shorter alloy mounting posts and making a bigger hole in the mounting plate).

    Well I understand the need to seal the housing against the elements, but I thought the back of the g35 units were already weather proof, so you just needed a through gasket like the h4's use. Heck if the back of the projector is already sealed, you would just need to open up the oem boot.

    Did you look at any of the mini projector replacement kits? or are there too many compromises in their designs compared to using the full size units? I mean a pair of the one company's superbike kits would run $300 and would not involve as much fabrication..

    No, I haven't. However, I've seen a few aftermarket products over the years and most left something to be desired with respect to quality of manufacture. The OEM G35 projectors I'm using are miles ahead of the aftermarket "FX-R" replicas sold by The Retrofit Source, for example (I have a pair of these as well). They might work just fine, though!

    I wasn't even considering copies of the oem projectors, but the mini Bi-xenon projectors caught my eye. They don't have aiming built into their housings, just the Hi/lo cutoff. They essentially bolt into the standard h4 bulb mounting with a pretty secure threaded clamp system and use the standard headlight housing adjusters for aiming.

    Seemed a simpler solution to the issues of modifying the housing and then having two adjustment systems..

    Have you tested the headlight to make sure that you got it resealed? I have enough issues with US OEM car headlights leaking, that I don't want to open myself up to a leaking VFR headlight.

    See response #1!

    I did not mean light leakage, I was referring to moisture leakage. I just thought you would have tried some sort of misting or fogging test on the bench with humidfier and/or spray bottle.

    Made any decisions on where you are going to mount the ballasts and relays??

    I will have to sort that out once I've got the fairing off. I have decided I will need to use Acura/Mitsubishi D2S igniters, which means I will need to buy some different ballasts--hopefully compact ones!

    There are lots of compact ballasts out there. I could check with my sources and see what they recommend for d2s capsules.

    Good luck! There's loads of good info on the HIDPlanet forum, but a lot of noise as well.

    These chinese projector kits seem to be pretty good. Plus they're a lot smaller than those OEM ones out of vehicles.

    Yes, I suppose it was only a matter of time before the Chinese responded to a clear market niche!

    I have no idea about how the quality of those small projectors compares to OEM projectors, but at least the mounting sysem makes sense to me. It looks like the projectors would be adequately centred, solidly mounted and re-sealable, with the only issues being where to mount the ballasts and (for some) opening the headlamp units. Could be a winner? I'm going to continue with my OEMs, though.

    Those are the ones I was talking about, they do appear to be solidly mounted and their smaller size won't require some crazy huge bezel, so they can still retain a certain level of stealth. I'd seen a few projector conversions done on both cars and bikes, and they all screamed "ghetto" to me with the obvious retro fit looks of the final product. Particularly the ones on bikes where they fill the headlight panel and just have the small rounds for the projector (like certain Ducati's have oem).

    I also worried about the HID conversions that just put a capsule in the standard housing.

    But then I saw a some projector conversions done on a C14 (a police unit prototype no less) plus a couple of Suzuki's and now I'm sold.

    Now that my state is not doing their annual (and anal) safety inspections any more, it is possible to install a projector system like this and not have inspection issues.

    Before that the capsule conversions were barely legal; you had to get a guy that did not want to look too hard at what was in the stock bulb position.

    One last question,.. Are you going to use a delay for starting (at least on the US VFR!), similar to the delay relay's that tightwad is using, to maximize the life of the HID capsules??

  19. OK, so AC voltage checks out on both RC and PC. However, the book also suggests checking for continuity between the stator plug and ground. Should NOT be continuity. It seems as though both bikes DO have continuity to ground on all three connectors. Low continuity plus the AC voltage being ok leads me to surmise that the stators both charge, but not at full capacity. Which is where I'm at currently. Haha, currently! Get it?!

    The VFR, by the way, with new Ricks stator has zero continuity on the plug. That tells me I'm performing the test correctly, at least.

    So, seriously? I need Two new stators at the same time? The only similarity between the circumstances being the MOTY. Coincidence? Five years and over 55,000 miles difference in the two machines.

    Thoughts?

    Well continuity to ground is a sure sign that the stators are Tango Uniform..

    Why, who knows.

    as for your comments on your RC having previously been a good charging machine, I don't know what to tell you.

    My SP2 just about makes 12.8 at the battery, at idle..

    I have yet to have a battery sit in it connected, for more than a couple of weeks without needing a recharge.

    So you know the next time I'm in doing any electrical work on that beast, Its going to get a new stator, a new rick's R&R, all grounds tied together and the positives from the R&R run directly to the battery.

    I keep planning on tying all the VFR's grounds to a common point and running the positive from the R&R directly to the battery.

  20. I'd be interested in the plates.

    Okay, I spent a little more time looking around at these retrofits and now I have some more questions for you.

    Why did you install them so far forward in the housing?

    I understand these lights don't need the reflectors at all to focus the light pattern, so their position fore/aft is not critical to the pattern produced, but I would have tried to move them as far aft in the housing as possible to disperse the hot spot on the front lens as much as possible. There is some space behind the headlight housing and the front forks on the VFR, space I would think would greatly help manage any heat issues.

    Why did you leave in the reflector? Or are am I not believing my eyes when I look at the reassembled headlight and don't see the reflectors.. When I looked at it before it looked like you were only leaving the reflector for appearances. It looked to me like your mounting plate was a complete replacement for the reflector.. Am I missing something here?

    Did you look at any of the mini projector replacement kits? or are there too many compromises in their designs compared to using the full size units? I mean a pair of the one company's superbike kits would run $300 and would not involve as much fabrication..

    Have you tested the headlight to make sure that you got it resealed? I have enough issues with US OEM car headlights leaking, that I don't want to open myself up to a leaking VFR headlight.

    Made any decisions on where you are going to mount the ballasts and relays??

    Seeing the H4 to bi-xenon projector kit, has me thinking about this a lot.

    Whether I do a full size set of projectors like your are doing, or just go with the H4 style ones, I think I'm hooked.

    70W of power to the headlights is a lot better than the 110w/120W that I'm currently drawing.

    Add in the much greater output and its a no brainer..

    Now, I'm off to find a spare headlight.....

  21. I have not read the entire post yet.

    Which way does your car fan run? Does it pull cooler air toward the engine or does it blow hot air from the engine to the cooler ambient air outside of the car?

    Bikes are not diesel trucks ,the small capacity of a bikes cooling system are not made to cope with the traffic conditions that we find ourselves in.

    Actually it matters not if the fan moves the air over the engine or not. What matters is that it draws the coolest air it can find across the fins of the radiator.

    In you cars case the coolest air it can find is at the front of the vehicle.

    The coolest air that both radiators can find on the VFR is still at the front of the bike. What happens when the oem sucker fan runs is that it pulls air from the left side of the bike, heats it with the left rad and then heats it again with the engine & header then pushes it out the front of the bike. The right side rad gets next to no flow and what it does get is already much hotter than ambient so the right rad just becomes a heat mass, not a heat sink.

    The fan is dsigned to keep the heat off the rider, it works really well if the bike is working as it should. If your sitting in 100 degree traffic, at 223 degrees, the fan should kick in and take temp to the lower 200.s . I find the fan very effective sitting in traffic in its ability to drop the heat. But 100 degree in san antone or Austin will be hot no matter.

    Turn the fan the other way, the Hot air will be hitting you in the face

    I don't find it hitting me in the face. It used to rise up around the triples and bake both my hands, but now only my left calf and my left elbow get warm. I'd rather put up with that instead of overheating my motor.

    In fact the only issue I still have with the heat on the VFR is that if I'm really stuck in hot traffic, the bike will go into the state where the fan constantly runs.

    I think I may make some sort of extractor duct to make sure that all the heated air from the rads is ejected to the atmosphere and none can find a stagnant spot behind the fairing.

  22. Not much to report here, as the roads around here are just getting back to rideable.

    I had to repair one of the terminals in the VFR's pcm connector as the tab on it was broken, So the wire kept coming out of the connector, triggering the FI light.

    I found a close match to the Honda terminal, in a surplus stereo installation kit. It was for a Pioneer radio to patch into a oem amp system. The socket was the correct size to connect with the pins in the pcm, but is was just a little bit shorter. Since that was not a problem once it snapped into the pcm, I chose to go with it.

    One little soldered splice and a bit of heat shrink later, the FI light is gone. No more wedging fingers up under right side of the seat cowl and blindly pressing at the connector to "fix" the problem.

    FIXED..

    But the circulating pump was blowing fuses, Something was wrong with the wire where it enters the pump.

    It has no real strain relief designed into the case, so all the fiddling around the pump, and with it, caused some internal short.

    I got another pump from a marine supply (as they seem to be the only ones that stock the all plastic bodied versions of these pumps) and installed it with a molex two pin connector.

    Still no strain relief on the pump body for the wires (and I may put some RTV around it), but now the pump won't ever end up hanging on its wiring.

    This weekend I hope will be the one to break the cabin fever and start rubbing off the rust.

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