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SEBSPEED

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Everything posted by SEBSPEED

  1. Unfortunately, I don't. That would solve a lot of my problems. Christmas is coming though, if I can get rid of the cam I have for a better one... hmm...
  2. No... I think I was still in awe of the tar snakes... :blink:
  3. I absolutely know I'm going to regret this but this is the video that inspired Trav and I tossing this idea around. I had literally duct taped a camera tripod to my Givi rack, hit record and went for a ride around the block. If it's good for a laugh I'm all for it, even at my own expense. This is more or less to give you an idea of what your view might look like. The camera could easily be spun around to point backwards. Not a bad idea to mount it on the trunk, a little farther back would have been better. I'm hoping that a piece of foam taped over the mic will take care of most of the wind noise... ? Oh, and - Holy Tar Snakes Batman!! :blink:
  4. ......and the BR crash........and you guys keep tellin' me how much fun I could have on track days.....Boy, it sure sounds like a barrel of fun......somehow "fun" and "crash" don't acclimate well with me...........sounds like the camera needs to be mounted to a full rollcage....... :unsure: I still say roll cage mount.....save both of you and your cameras............... :blink: That would involve a seat belt to keep from being tangled in the bars... what're you REALLY trying to say Skuuter??? :goofy:
  5. Kinda like this very rough sketch: More weight, but not much. Maybe 2lbs. There is enough clearance between the tabs and the bike to allow for the brace.
  6. New idea, after taking a walk to the garage... lay up fiberglass mat, about 3/8" thick, on the top surface of the cowl, in a fat 'T' shape. The top of the T will face forward, and the perpendicular arms can lay on the sides of the cowl, by the tabs, where I can mold in two thin aluminum straps bent in an L shape to fit over the tabs, reinforcing them. Coupla' countersunk bolts from the underside threading into some molded-in nuts... no worries about broken tabs. The next episode will be brought to you by the letter 'S'. :blink:
  7. Butthead. <_< :blink: Looks like a good effort there, probably makes a good roll cage too! :lol:
  8. No layup for the VFR, I have the cowl for that already. The CBR cowls run ~$100... forget that! A piece of foam between the seat and cowl will help spread out some of the load, but ultimately put more stress on the tabs. The seat cowl will already be a stressed member, but the plan is to cut and hand form the AL baseplate in such a way that the stresses are applied evenly across and through the whole part. Like walking on thin ice. You don't. You get on your belly and spread out... Rearward force on the camera will create lift on the front of the baseplate, which would try to pull itself away from the cowl. If the plate is attached in such a way that the pull is spread over a larger area, it should not rip off the cowl, and cowl should not break.
  9. The Sargent seat has a more scooped surface for the passenger than the stocker, there is room between the cowl and the seat for an aluminum plate that matches the base plate, to spread out the load. I highly doubt the tabs on the cowl are going to break, but I can reinforce them if I install this thing and they feel like a weak link. Chev, I see you. Need some measurements? Lol.
  10. As always, this is a budget job. I put more faith in a $.20 1/4-20 screw than I do a $50 mount. No need to buy a mount from Ken, I don't always ride with the grab handles!
  11. :lol: If only I were so lucky... The mount is very solid, the cowl will have to break first. Wait till you guys see the rest of it, before passing final judgment. The view from the cam: And a second cowl that I made for my F4i, might use the same idea with a shorter ladder... :offtopic:
  12. I forgot to mention that the ladder portion stands 14" high.
  13. All you will see with Ken's bracket is your butt... still need to raise the camera up. My seat cowl fits pretty tight, the Sargent seat is a little bigger than the stock seat and firms the fit up quite a bit. I did think of bridging the grab rails, but like the idea of having the quick-release of the seat cowl. Having a cowl pop up for free the very next day sealed the deal for me! I may do another variation on this by spring, for rear view only. I had in mind to make a backrest for my wife from steel tubing that linked into the grab rails, I wanted to incorporate a removable pouch/ bag on it and a mount for a cam at the top... one thing at a time!
  14. I've been fiddling around with my minidv cam for the better part of this year, and decided I wanted to try some new views. But I have to be different. So instead of hanging it off a fork leg, duct taping it to a fairing or saddlebag, or mounting it on the tank (like I have been), here's what I came up with. My main goal was to get a view that included me in the frame, so I could evaluate my body position on the bike, which meant I had to mount it behind me. Doing this offers the bonus of having a clear view out the back of the bike, so objective B was to be able to spin the camera around on the mount for rear-facing video. I thought the best idea for that would be to come up with a mount that bolted to the stock seat cowl on my VTEC. So, I need a plate to mount the camera to, a base plate to attach securely to the seat cowl, and something relatively stiff in between that wouldn't be affected too much by changing air streams(wind buffeting). Lucky me, I work in a high-end sheetmetal shop... after doing some sketching on the ole' mental notepad, I gathered up some titanium scraps and had at it. Tacked together: Ready to add a little filler: Done.(see the motivation on the wall? ) That would be the mid section, the stanchion between the two plates. .080" 6-4 titanium. Very stiff, and pretty light. I needed a strong block that would provide a mounting point for the 'ladder', and that would spread forces of movement over the base plate - I used a piece of scrap 1" aluminum, squared up on a mill.(I used the same block to space the ladder while I tack welded it together, for a tight fit). Here it is getting some holes drilled in it: And the corresponding holes in the ladder: Gives me this: The base plate will be larger than the piece of cardboard shown; I just needed something to set it on for the pic. It will be about the same width, but longer towards the front of the bike, possibly with some strategic cutouts. To add some flexibility to the setup, I drilled a third hole in the block, allowing the ladder to angle towards the rear of the bike to almost 45 degrees. I folded the ladder back until the first 'rung' hit the block, then tightened the bolt and drilled the third hole. Should be real stable in that position, it should give a better view when the camera faces back, and should catch the sounds of the exhaust and throttle changes this way. :music: I need to do some trim work on the bottom and top of the ladder, to allow it to swing to that second angle when mounted. I need to make the base plate for the seat cowl, and the mount plate for the camera. Then clean the parts and apply a finish that I haven't picked yet. It will be mounted on this spare seat cowl that member Crazybrother offered up for grabs a little while back(thanks again dude!!). Dunno yet if I'll paint it flat black, red to match, or just leave it alone??? Decisions, decisions. Now that the hard part is out of the way, I have the weather and road conditions to deal with; I may not get to test this thing out for a WHILE. I do know that if the minidv camera proves to heavy for the mount(it'll be very susceptible to acceleration and braking forces in that location), I'll get one of those small Oregon Scientific SD-card cameras that seem to be getting good reviews. Then I could run the dv cam on the tank mount, and edit both views together later... oh the possibilities! Anyway, just wanted to share, get feedback, etc... I'll post more as I get it done. :thumbsup: :offtopic:
  15. You are *so* going to kick yourself... LINK! :sleep:
  16. Wow! Nice, I was just looking at those yesterday too... please keep us posted on how well they hold up!
  17. I have two spare helmet locks from my '83 and '85 Interceptors That I won't be using; they're similar in design, and available to anyone else who wants to try this mod. Just have to have extra keys made. Cool mod by the way. :thumbsup:
  18. It would need to be a 0 to 2 ohm pot, and handle at least 10 watts. I don't think there is anything like it out there. If there were, it would be BIG! How big? The heat-troller unit isn't very big. The heat troller is a chip that turns the power on and off very fast. The potentiometer (sp) would drop voltage over it, just like a resistor. So they work very differently. Have you ever seen a remote control car with a speed controller in it? (not the computerized kind) It's the kind that takes a servo to move a conductor back and fourth against a large resistor. Probably nothing like it for our application... I think you could fit a mechanical speed control into a box the size of a heat troller, if not smaller. It would just have to be made of aluminum(the box), with some perforations or venting. And on that note, you'd need to find an older one, the newer types are only two or three points of contact, aren't they? I think I might have an old Tamiya one in my r/c box up in the attic of the garage, might even have an electronic one in there. Can they handle 12 volts? Most of those battery packs are 7.2v, and 1.2-2 amps(I'm sure they go much higher now). A mechanical one could be cost effective, I guess? :unsure: edit: it would have to be a mechanical one too, since the electronic/digital ones take their signal directly from the receiver, but if the msc can handle the 12v load, it could be triggered with a relay and operated by hand with a knob instead of by servo... Ok! Who's gonna be first to try it?? (Don't all raise your hands at once...) :unsure:
  19. Vid doesn't work for me? :unsure: I know what you mean about getting out, those days are precious this time of year. We don't have any salt or dirt down yet, so whenever the wind lets up I venture out. Monday looks nice, I might ride to work again.
  20. It would need to be a 0 to 2 ohm pot, and handle at least 10 watts. I don't think there is anything like it out there. If there were, it would be BIG! How big? The heat-troller unit isn't very big.
  21. Though on the other hand, that cross brace looks like a good spot to mount GPS, radar, cup holder( :unsure: ), etc.
  22. I wonder if a volume knob from a car radio could be made into a variable 'heat troller'? (I posted a topic long ago on possible cheaper alternatives to the Heat Troller, but didn't think of this option back then) :unsure:
  23. In the case of my '83, I'm doing this mod to replicate what Honda did to their race bikes back in the day(although I'm keeping the stock gauges). Stock: Race setup: They must have used the small round res for a reason, because the stock one would have bolted on just as easily...
  24. Some bikes come like that in the first place, others change them when changing brake calipers(to match piston sizes). Others may do it for the weight savings, and/or to lend a racing look to the controls.
  25. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GOLD-MOTORC...71133QQtcZphoto So as you can see from the price of these bars plus the mounts, you're looking at less than 1/4 the price of LSL setups if you don't need longer throttle cables or brake lines. Inspecting the basically identical handlebar setup on my former Bandit1200S is what got me to try this myself and I've done it to each bike I've owned since then. :thumbsup: Thanks! I'm keeping my eyes out for used risers from a dirt bike to use for this mod... should be able to find them for the least amount of $$$.
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