SEBSPEED

It is similar, but different in a few areas. 

On 4/9/2024 at 4:11 PM, WackenSS said:

Shoot me an email with the file and what you want and I'll see if its open for me to adjust 🙂

Email sent to you...

Last year, I discovered that squeezing the belt by hand (increasing/decreasing tension) showed movement in the rotrex bracket assembly -  I went through and re-tightened/re-tensioned everything. It's worth checking as a maintenance item...

7 minutes ago, WackenSS said:

I am a dealer so got the pro version eventually. If you need any adjustments made I can help you with those "out of reach" numbers from the freeware 🙂

Just tell me what you need.

It is rarely needed with the self adaptive feature, but for heavy modifications there is no way around. This does not replace a Dyno! Do you use the target afr from Dan?

I am using 2 maps which the previous owner of my kit (Arrow here on VFRD) had developed on a dyno in NL. I haven't done much other than turn off the engine braking and turn on the automatic tuning.  I'd like to raise the rpm limit. Yaman wanted me to send him my unit for the update, and I didn't feel like taking the bike down for that. 

2 hours ago, Duc2V4 said:

I was able to download the RB software from their website. I don't recall if I had to provide a serial number or not. Message me, I have an install file from Dec 2023, if you still need/want it.

 

D

I have the free software so I can view and make the basic changes, thanks

Did RB/Dimsport help with that, or were you able to find software so you could DIY?

I'm interested in the software, if you can assist with that...

Front fender looks like it will have tire contact when you install a new tire & run it up to speed... 

As mentioned above, download the manual here or get your hands on a hard copy. It's invaluable if you are a diy type. 

Once you pull the clutch cover, use a q-tip soaked in simple green or wd-40 to clean the metal shield and the inside of the sight glass. This is the fastest & easiest way I have found after doing hundreds of them. 

The sight glasses and shields do build up with grime after high mileage and/or infrequent maintenance. 

20 hours ago, tsmitty said:

Whats the secret for removing the gauge hands?

Gently pry up on it using 2 thin flathead screwdrivers or butter knives. They are press fit to the motor shafts. Make sure the needles remain in the "power off" position when removing and reinstalling. You do not want to rotate or twist them, especially when reinstalling.

We have a member here that goes by Throttlepimp. His name is Kevin Sigler, he does graphic design and has been creating and fabbing gauge faces and decals for a long time. He's supplied all my decal and gauge face mods for my business and bike projects for almost 15yrs. Countless transactions with nothing but good results - including a set of gauge faces for a second gen VFR like yours to replace sun faded ones. 

He's not on here much, so shoot him an email at throttlepimp@gmail.com. Tell him you are a VFRD member, and that I sent you. He already has files and color match for your gauges saved from my project. Customizing a face for your voltmeter will be very easy for him. 

You can upgrade the 6th gen with oil injection by using an 8th gen cover and drilling 1 hole in your engine...

21 hours ago, Presson said:

Thanks Sebspeed; a comprehensive list of questions but I'm not chasing a problem, just wondering about slightly increasing sensitivity to input.

 

Since you ask tyres a Michelin Road 6 with only 2k miles on and pressure as standard (36/42), forks serviced 500 miles back, head bearings are stock as the bike has only 12k miles on it and same for the shock. Been riding for 40 years. If there's a problem it's the state of roads in UK with potholes and loose gravel appearing right on line when pressing on through corners.

Since we don't know each other, it's safer to ask.

At 12kmi, your standard head bearings are in need of service and possible replacement. Were they inspected when the forks were serviced?

Have you set the suspension up properly for your weight and riding style?

The short answer is yes, lowering the front end of your bike will steepen the rake angle and shrink the trail value which will make the bike steer quicker. 3mm is not a significant change.

Conversely, if your rear shock is collapsed, overworked, or otherwise insufficient for the task(as most oem are), the rear of your bike will be sitting lower than intended. This will cause the opposite of the effect you're looking for. Compensating for this by lowering the front is a band aid fix and can cause other issues like ground clearance and wallowing of the chassis. 

I'm not trying to talk you out of modifying or improving your bike... I've got more money and time and extra parts in my VFR than anyone really should... I'm trying to help you make it the best it can be... 

What tires have you mounted?

What is the pressure in them?

When were your forks last serviced?

When were your head bearings last serviced?

What type of head bearing is installed?

What condition is your rear shock in?

What amount of experience do you have?

Do you keep a tight or loose grip on the handlebars?

How worn is your chain?

What sprocket combination is installed?

All those things need to be considered before you mess around with changing the geometry. 

Not that you can't or shouldn't change it... it's just a bit pointless and/or creating new problems if you haven't addressed that list first. 

1 hour ago, WackenSS said:

I have the springs Dan supplied and I don't suspect them to be done for but I'll just change them while I'm in there. I seem to remember some slippage wich I never could replicate so I'm going total refreshon the system as a whole!

Barnett as the www seem to aggree that this is top shelf. Also time to inspect the slave!

Still waiting for 4 more plates as they are on backorder.

The springs are "+15% stiffer than oem" ebc - no specs mentioned and to make it impossible to understand they also have another kit wich is just stronger with a different part# 🤷

I'll compare with Dan's.

Some additional (anecdotal) information re: spring pressures here:

Cool. I see some new clutch springs there, what is the pressure rating on them?

I am using the Barnett 100lb springs that Toecutter on VFRWorld used. I have had absolutely zero slip. ALL of the torque makes it to the road... my rear tires and wallet can confirm!

Any updates here? 

I found this thread while looking into injector options for my supercharged 6th gen setup. I want more juice! 🙂

It seems I should be looking for Hayabusa injectors? The Blackbird units are almost non-existent on ebay...

6 hours ago, Morados said:

I would gladly rework it to fit my bike as I am now out of luck on my search for wiring loom for my Gen 8 Cross, Even for the interceptor gen 8 is nowhere to be found, Maybe the gen 6 cable will do if ecm sockets and sensors are the same

If you're going to go that far, you can buy a spare VFR harness and steal the connectors you need for your install. 

The connections may all be the same, but if the subframes are different then the wiring lengths could very well be different due to different routing. 

Be aware, if you decide to buy one and rework it to fit your bike, RapidBike will not help you once you modify the parts. At least, not RapidBike USA. 

If you are within riding distance of a RB dealer, you should go there personally and ask them to offer a trial fit of the Interceptor part and/or ask them to make a factory made harness for your specs. 

Hi Jim! Good luck with your surgery!

3 hours ago, Mohawk said:

😂😂 Aha achieved the same with an adjustable length shock !  
🎅Merry Xmas 🎅

Similar, but I can accomplish more chassis correction with the link. A lengthened shock will interfere with the standard link before reaching the values I have with my link. 

I have to hold my cards close for now. A couple of my test riders are members here and testing is not yet complete. I'm soliciting unbiased results before releasing full info.

I have something in the works for next season. Fabrication of a handful of prototypes is done, and I hope to have test results to share soon. 

If nothing else, we have some eye candy 🙂

@VFRBeast I'm just seeing your post now - I think we already caught up via one of my social media pages - good luck with your project

Worth noting, the width of the dogbone is less important than the width(length) of the steel bushes that ride in the bearings. The bushes are what set the spacing of the link plates. The aluminum dogbone just carries the bearings and sets the spacing. 

Referencing data I collected for my 2005 build, but it may be of some help:

My stock 6g dogbone was spaced 115mm center to center. 

I replaced it with a CBR600F3 dogbone which was otherwise equal, but spaced at 110mm. The 5mm difference resulted in a swingarm angle change of -1.7 degrees. 

I have drawn up a couple new versions and will be machining a few new parts with even smaller spacing over this winter. I am making this effort to further increase my swingarm droop to combat rear suspension squat under acceleration. 

Done

I'm very sorry to hear of this tragic loss to you Darryl, and the VFR community. 

I am willing and able to make & engrave a commemorative plate/plaque for your header build Darryl. You know where to reach me when you're ready.

Godspeed Lance & best wishes to all affected.