V4 Rosso

I don't think upside down forks on a pre veefalo VFR are a good idea:

Looks like an easy way to clean the chain :fing02: Here they sell a similar product: Kettenmax that also has a container to catch the dirty cleaning fluid.

I didn't like it at first but it turned out very well :fing02:

On what trace said (both versions :biggrin: )

John, when I search for some sientific data that backs up all the claims I only find websites that say:

Hydrogen Injection -The technology of using hydrogen as a combustion enhancement in internal combustion engines has been researched and proven for many years. The benefits are factual and well documented.

Do you have any links that point to some scientific studies that contain factual data? The use of hydroxy boosters has been studied since WW1 but most of the researches come up with youtube vids

to show how well their system works. Haha, holding a white pice of paper close to the exhaust pipe and claiming (i'll translate here) it spits out zero soot, zero CO, zero HC and 30% fuel saving and CO2 reduction! Instead of backing up claims by mentionig mpg and holding white pieces of paper near the exhaust pipe, why not put the engine on a dynometer or sticking an exhaust gas analiser in the can?

What is different about your setup compared to the kits allready available on the market that justifies spending $250.000 in R&D?

Well done, she looks great :cheerleader:

Lacy, thanks for starting the list. I thought it was JZH that had to be credited for it, my bad.

I would take those Internet sources as a rough guide, and trust "primary sources" such as Seb's measurements of the CBR forks as the most accurate:

I agree. Unfortunately this kind of info is not available through manufacturer service manuals. For fork length you always took the length between the top of the fork leg and the centre of the axle?

I'll add SEB's data too, thanks SEB :fing02: I'd also like to add data like brake disc size and offset and I see SEB has allready added some of that to his spreadsheet.

I'm glad the spreadsheet is finding some use and being built upon. If anyone is curious about the reliability of any of the numbers or sources listed, I can give an idea about which ones I think are 100% correct and which ones may be less than perfect.

Please do. And if anyone else can contribute please do too. Currently the spreadsheet can be edited directly by anyone. I realise that this may lead to unreliable data being added, have to look in how to minimise that risk.

Anyone attempted the swap using CBR1000RR (06-07) forks or know of a reason they wouldn't work? The length looks to be right

Do you know what the exact length is? (top to centre of axle)

Negative, they are the same. I have successfully mix & matched 929/954 & 1000RR triples. Bottoms with tops and tops with bottoms.

According to JZH's list the 08/09 Fireblade has different fork spacing than earlier models.

Here is the list originally made by JZH. He took his list offline because some suorces proved to be unreliable so it may still contain some errors. If you have any reliable info to contribute or see any errors please add or correct the data.

That is so cool. I bet it is a blast to ride too :fing02:

When I ride, my front tire seams to jump continously. ...I do have the impression that the tire has bumps in it but i dont think it could cause such bumping.

I would recommmend checking the oil level in the forks (100mm/3.9"), it doesn't take much time. Also have a good look at the tires as it sounds like there maybe something wrong with the cords. Got a pic of the bumps on the tire?

:fing02:

I am sceptic too but look forward to seeing some numbers.

That looks great, well done. :goofy:

I think we might like to see pictures of the work in progress, rather than just the finished product.

:fing02:

:blink: Wow, just wow :rolleyes: :blink: :unsure: :lobby: :ph34r:

Looks good Larry :cheerleader: How many hours were needed to fabricate these parts?

Your actual weight on the forks when you do a stoppie is dependent on the angle of your stoppie...

I realise it's more complex with the forks not being vertical. Decellerating with the rear just of the ground adds even more load on the front than just the weight of the bike and rider.

The less air the less it will compress upon fork compression the less it will fight back. The more air the more it will compress and the more it will fight back upon compression.

It's just the opposite. The smaller the initial air chamber the higher the progressive rate of the air spring will be.

This thread to me has been mostly about the "balance" of a bike more so than tuning per se, but being such an awesome thread it may be a good idea to talk about the air a little bit.

That is why I brought this up. How can you talk about balance if you only focus on coil springs and more or less ignore the air spring? Swapping fork springs means altering the air spring too as every coil spring takes up a different volume. Like I said, the new rear spring on my 3rd gen is now 21kg instead of the 16kg stock yet the rate of the front springs has decreased from 0.69 to 0.67 but they have to be installed with a little more preload (+4mm) and a smaller air chaimber. With the lower rate springs and smaller air chamber I was now able to get correct sag numbers that I could not with the stiffer stock fork springs, stock air chamber and the preload adjuster maxed out (The new springs have more preload because they are 10mm longer than stock so I could back out the preload adjuster by 6mm).

Hopefully Jamie Dougherty will share some of his wisdom, not that I don't value your wisdom on this matter :pinocchio:, but in another post he mentioned using a 120mm air chaimber in 3rd gen forks instead of the stock 178mm and it would be interesting to know how/why he decided on reducing the air chamber by that large(?) amount.

I can see it acts as a progressive spring. Only I hadn't given it any thought before and to me it seems it plays a very important role, not only in the final stroke of the suspension travel, yet I see it hardly being discussed in topics like this. I have progressive aftermarket springs suited for my weight (230lbs) and riding style (relaxed) and for the first two thirds of suspension travel the rate is 0.67 (rear is 21kg/mm) so it is pretty close to stock but the instructions that came with it mentioned to set the air chamber to 170mm instead of the stock 178mm. The new springs take up 60% more volume than the stock springs so in all the air chamber has decreased considerably. The last one third of suspension travel the spring has a rate of 1.1kg/mm still far off from the average of 1.3kg/mm.

How come when I pull a stoppie, so all the weight is on the fork, it doesn't bottom out? The combined weight of me and the VFR is 350kg, say the front springs are 0.9 (stock is 0.63) then I need 194mm-16mm(preload) of travel or 350/(136*2) (120mm fork travel +16mm preload * 2 parallel springs)) = 1.3kg/mm springs. What role does the air chamber play here? Seems to me it is very significant and I do not see the need to have full range of springs in very small increments.

Anyone that can share some insight on this?

So where do you install the fart sensor and what did you have for lunch that you managed to get 388km/h, bats?

:goofy:

FIrst I would let it soak for a while. If it still doesn't budge, heat the oil bath up a bit (au bain marie). If it still won't come loose, clean it as much as possible and ask at the local jewelry store if they are willing to soak it in in their ultrasonic cleaner.

So does Honda :fing02:

@Phantom: Looks awesome, can't wait to see the finished bike (but I'll know have to be patient :laugh:)

:laugh: :laugh:

On my second ride after installing a HID I had a cager turning left just in front of me. Long and straight rural road, she turned into her driveway leading to the farm. :goofy: Before that I had only heard about cagers pulling stupid moves like this :beer:

Btw , I had to modify the HID (Pilot) slightly to get a good pattern on a headlight tester.

JZH, how's your projector beam HID setup coming along, any development now you have a big garage?

Good tip :fing02: I will try that on a stuck cable stop on my Giant.

Don't know if it's my picture or what making you believe there different because there is NO drain bolt on the side of the F4i fork?

Maybe Auspañol thinks the compression valve is a drain bolt. It is in the same postion as where the drain bolts are on 3rd gen. fork lowers.

Pump the forks a few times w/the brake on and tighten the last axle pinch bolt and your done!

Next time try to pump the forks without putting pressure on the brakes but by putting some 2x4 in front of the front tire. Can really reduce fork sticktion.

6K same temperature as the sunlight. I have used them, they are great and work better in fog. Unfortunately in Europe are not legal.

Not all of Europe. I have 6K and and here you can have a colour temperature up to 8K. If I have to replace the bulb it will be a lower temp bulb.

What do you typically get on other chains with VFR with no luber?

35K kms max and then the chain and sprockets were toast. Riding on dirt roads and salt during the winter months doesn't do the chain any good. But Like others mentioned it is not just about chain life, it is about not having to clean the chain every week (or multiple times a week this time of year). Good chain maintenence will always improve chain life wheterh usig lube or oil. Lube doesn't stay on a chain when riding through a rainstorm for an hour with the oiler you just push a button/pull a lever for some extra chain maintenence while you ride. But most auto oiler topics end in oiler versus lube debate and by looking at the topic title the OP asked to keep that out of this thread.

Is this yours? If not, who? I would love to know more. Thanks!

No not mine and I do not have any contact info on the guy who made it. I do have another pic though

All I know is it has a little hole in the bottom through which the oil is able to escape and it did reduce the amount of fling off getting on the bike. I was thinking of making something similar as the hugger/chainguard I have on my VFR right now is shorter than stock and doesn't cover the rear sprocket at all.

K.I.S.S. method :blink: