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V4 Rosso

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Posts posted by V4 Rosso

  1. The CR9EH-9 plugs are the right heat range for your bike, having regular coils or COPs makes no difference. Maybe the COPs just got too hot. On a trip a few years ago one was riding a frankenviffer where the original coils were relocated, sitting very close to the rear headers. In very warm conditions the coils would overheat makeing the bike stumble and even stall at some point. After putting a bit more space between the coils and the headers all was fine.

    Was it only the COPs on the rear cilinders that caused the stumbling?

    • Like 1
  2. I have changed out lots of sets, they are great bearings,

    If they are great bearings you should hardly have to change them that often :wink:

    All Balls is just a reseller isn't it?

    For the head bearings I don't care much about the manufacturer, but for e.g. wheel bearings I prefer bearings from a reputable brand like SKF or FAG.

  3. NTV650 = Deauville

    The NTV650 Deauville is the succesor of the NTV650 and might have the same dimensions top yoke. The dash in the previous NTV650 pic obscures some of the yoke so it is hard to tell if they are different. The yoke of the Deauville you posted looks exactly the same as that of the top yoke a member of the Dutch VFROC put on his 3rd gen. The yoke was sold to him as being from an NTV650.

    NTV650 (Deauville) top yoke on a 3rd gen VFR fork:

    vfr_ntv.jpg

    foto2.jpg

    edit: Found a pic of a cleaned up NTV650 yoke and it has two extra tabs to hold the dash. So it seems Veefer800canuck is right and the correct yoke comes from a NTV650 Deauville.

    gallery_5310_4809_149885.jpg

    Bottom yoke in the picture is from a NTV650

  4. According to this wikipedia article a slightly modified version (e.g. chain drive instead of shaft drive) was sold in the US with the name Hawk GT.

    My notes show the top yoke dimensions of the 5th gen are the same as that of the 3rd and 4th gen so the NTV yoke should also fit the 5th gen VFR.

  5. yes once you get to a 530 chain and higher, they will break most chain breakers, grinding the rivet heads totall flush you can usually pop off side plate with a large screwdriver. I dont own a chain breaker, not a must have tool,

    I have a chain tool and allways grind the rivet head flush before using the breaker pin of the tool. What's nice about the DID tool isthat it puts the side plate at exactly the right position, not putting too much pressure on the X-rings so they last long and keep the grease inside and dirt outside the chain.
  6. Try as others suggested to contact Honda Japan. As the disclaimer below the email says, the answer you got is striclty that of the person that happened to be sitting behind the computer at that time, not that of Honda (Huh?)

    Any views or opinions presented are

    solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Honda

    Motor Europe Ltd. or any of its group of companies.

    Honda UK's e-mail is the normal "computer says no" response, happens all the time.

    :laugh:

    http://youtu.be/0n_Ty_72Qds

  7. the tire is seated, its just too skinny, aka putting a 150 on the stock rim.

    Yeah, it is quite common on those fast and furious wanabee racers :biggrin: I think it looks funny.

    if you look at a car tire/ rim vs a motorcycle tire/ rim there 2 different designs

    :+1:

    There are actually quite a few bead en hump designs. Here is a page that has some more in depth information.

    What I need though... is someone dodgy, willing to go a little further than the normal safety limits allow,

    Heated tires can blow out at less than double the max rated pressure. Granted, you do not heat them before installation, but tripling the pressure is recipe for disaster.

    http://www.kentool.com/demos/cage_demo.mpg

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