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V4 Rosso

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Posts posted by V4 Rosso

  1. Not all have twin low beams as shown in the schematic below of the 4th gen for a couple of markets (most of europe)

    VFR750-F-F-SW-H-ED-G.png

     

    @weerab: The conversion can be as simple as adding a third prong to the right headlight connector splicing into the left connector. But make sure the current low beam is switched using a relay and not directly from the headlight switch (as shown in the above schematic).

    • Like 1
  2. I would go with the air gap recommended by YSS.  The length of the spring is of no influence on the oil displacement, wire thickness and number of coils per cm do. I have set the air gap on mine to 130mm to make the combined front spring rate a bit more progressive.

  3. 1 hour ago, mk2dave said:

    I'm assuming fuel pressure isn't that important to get it running since it runs with starting fluid sprayed into the airbox.  If FP is not correct, it wont run well, but it should run even if barely.

    Starting fluid comes out of the spray can because the can is pressurised 🤓

    Check if there is fuel coming out of the injectors.

  4. You are sure you installed the friction plates in the right order, starting with the one with the larger ID that fits over the friction spring? And the outer friction plate one slot offset to the other friction plates?

    • Like 1
  5. On 5/20/2022 at 8:21 PM, thet2 said:

    Any ideas what to look at? slave clutch?

    Maybe the clutch pushrod got misaligned when you installed the pressure plate.

     

    On 5/22/2022 at 9:00 PM, BusyLittleShop said:

    As you can see in the drawings the zip tie suggestion doesn't
    accomplish much because as you squeeze the lever the piston blocks the
    path of bubbles (blue) from reaching the reservoir... but if you leave
    the lever at rest the piston retracts enough to uncover the port so
    the bubbles (blue) can travel all the way to the reservoir...

    The zip tie method puts the system under pressure making the air bubbles smaller. Smaller air bubbles can travel around tighter corners (inside banjo bolts) and smaller orifices. The bubbles will accumulate just in front of the master cilinder and travel further up to the reservoir as soon as the zip tie is removed. Make sure the steerer is turned to the right

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