V4 Rosso

I agree with VFR78: remove the bearing holder and clean up the teeth. Also a great opportunity to repack the bearings with new grease.

I would go with the air gap recommended by YSS.  The length of the spring is of no influence on the oil displacement, wire thickness and number of coils per cm do. I have set the air gap on mine to 130mm to make the combined front spring rate a bit more progressive.

22 hours ago, mk2dave said:

Is there a way to see the injectors spraying fuel without removing the injectors if the throttle butterflies are held open?

Yo may have to remove the airbox to get a good view

1 hour ago, mk2dave said:

I'm assuming fuel pressure isn't that important to get it running since it runs with starting fluid sprayed into the airbox.  If FP is not correct, it wont run well, but it should run even if barely.

Starting fluid comes out of the spray can because the can is pressurised 🤓

Check if there is fuel coming out of the injectors.

Quite a transformation, it looks brand new. Excellent write-up too.

On 9/21/2023 at 10:26 AM, keny said:

Can actually be it's a bike made to look like a US/Canada RWB bike, thro it has the right instrument as top triple as engine covers.

A set of round clocks is on it's way to you. 

To me still the best looking VFR.

No side stand fairing left in your parts bin?

cycleterminal may have some in stock.

Ouch. Are replacements still available?

Never seen a disc rotor with a mirror finish like that one 😎

Fuel pump with a bypass?

It's not OEM. Looks like the socket is for a BMW/European style jack plug.

5 hours ago, Meatball74 said:

3) there is spark from what I can tell - it will give me a thump in time with each cylinder but won't "catch" - won't fire up, saying that, I guess it's not confirmed in each cylinder - I'll look into this.

Does it fire when you spray some starter fluid or brake cleaner into the airbox?

Are the plug caps properly seated?

If the reservoir is empty the bladder most often takes up most of the empty space in the reservoir. Are you sure the reservoir is completely empty?

11 hours ago, gropula said:

The lever has rotational movement, while the actuator and the movable stacks have linear movement (yellow arrows).

The stacks don't need to have linear movement, do they? Or can you otherwise not get enough clearance?

Wow, that's quite an ordeal you went through. Best wishes on #3 👍

On 1/13/2023 at 3:39 PM, jefferson said:

Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue.

I often had success whacking a torx bit into the stripped allen head.

On 11/16/2022 at 6:46 PM, Hingley said:

Oil has changed a great deal and I can see the oil companies are designing oils for the car masses and the motorcycle side of it is just a sideline, ( in comparison )

Not Putoline. Putoline only makes lubricants and coolants for motorcycles, scooters and quads.

Nice! Will you be visiting the classic TT next month?

Coming together nicely 👍👌

The service manual only mentions the thickness of the friction plates: 2.92-3.08 (0.115- 0. 121)

You can find even better diagrams & more in the factory service manual:

You are sure you installed the friction plates in the right order, starting with the one with the larger ID that fits over the friction spring? And the outer friction plate one slot offset to the other friction plates?

On 5/20/2022 at 8:21 PM, thet2 said:

Any ideas what to look at? slave clutch?

Maybe the clutch pushrod got misaligned when you installed the pressure plate.

On 5/22/2022 at 9:00 PM, BusyLittleShop said:

As you can see in the drawings the zip tie suggestion doesn't
accomplish much because as you squeeze the lever the piston blocks the
path of bubbles (blue) from reaching the reservoir... but if you leave
the lever at rest the piston retracts enough to uncover the port so
the bubbles (blue) can travel all the way to the reservoir...

The zip tie method puts the system under pressure making the air bubbles smaller. Smaller air bubbles can travel around tighter corners (inside banjo bolts) and smaller orifices. The bubbles will accumulate just in front of the master cilinder and travel further up to the reservoir as soon as the zip tie is removed. Make sure the steerer is turned to the right