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V4 Rosso

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Posts posted by V4 Rosso

  1. I would go with the air gap recommended by YSS.  The length of the spring is of no influence on the oil displacement, wire thickness and number of coils per cm do. I have set the air gap on mine to 130mm to make the combined front spring rate a bit more progressive.

  2. 1 hour ago, mk2dave said:

    I'm assuming fuel pressure isn't that important to get it running since it runs with starting fluid sprayed into the airbox.  If FP is not correct, it wont run well, but it should run even if barely.

    Starting fluid comes out of the spray can because the can is pressurised 🤓

    Check if there is fuel coming out of the injectors.

  3. On 9/21/2023 at 10:26 AM, keny said:

    Can actually be it's a bike made to look like a US/Canada RWB bike, thro it has the right instrument as top triple as engine covers.

    A set of round clocks is on it's way to you. 

    • Like 2
  4. 5 hours ago, Meatball74 said:

    3) there is spark from what I can tell - it will give me a thump in time with each cylinder but won't "catch" - won't fire up, saying that, I guess it's not confirmed in each cylinder - I'll look into this.

    Does it fire when you spray some starter fluid or brake cleaner into the airbox?

  5. 11 hours ago, gropula said:

    The lever has rotational movement, while the actuator and the movable stacks have linear movement (yellow arrows).

    The stacks don't need to have linear movement, do they? Or can you otherwise not get enough clearance?

  6. You are sure you installed the friction plates in the right order, starting with the one with the larger ID that fits over the friction spring? And the outer friction plate one slot offset to the other friction plates?

    • Like 1
  7. On 5/20/2022 at 8:21 PM, thet2 said:

    Any ideas what to look at? slave clutch?

    Maybe the clutch pushrod got misaligned when you installed the pressure plate.


    On 5/22/2022 at 9:00 PM, BusyLittleShop said:

    As you can see in the drawings the zip tie suggestion doesn't
    accomplish much because as you squeeze the lever the piston blocks the
    path of bubbles (blue) from reaching the reservoir... but if you leave
    the lever at rest the piston retracts enough to uncover the port so
    the bubbles (blue) can travel all the way to the reservoir...

    The zip tie method puts the system under pressure making the air bubbles smaller. Smaller air bubbles can travel around tighter corners (inside banjo bolts) and smaller orifices. The bubbles will accumulate just in front of the master cilinder and travel further up to the reservoir as soon as the zip tie is removed. Make sure the steerer is turned to the right

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