HispanicSlammer

From what I read about the moko sliders the overflow tank max coolant line is well below where it is drilled, do they not provide a smaller tank, I thought they did. ?I have seen one that was modified with a piece of PVC tube where the sliders go. That was a good 2" above the max coolant line. It is just an overflow tank anyway, I dont see how they can claim it is the cause of any problem if there is coolant there. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> (screen.width/1.75)){this.width = (this.width/1.75)}" onclick="java script:if(this.width > (screen.width/1.75)){this.width = (this.width/1.75)} else {this.width = (this.width*1.75)}" border="0" alt='Posted image: Click to resize'>

Are you kidding, your warranty wont cover you if you install sliders? What about all the stuff I did?

Larry did you ever install those sliders?

Yea like I said in the first post 35mm.

Tankslapper? Perhaps your geometry is too far forward and your getting oversteer, take some preload off the back, get a more neutral feel. 30mm is too high for street riding everything I have read has 32mm as the upper limit for street sag, maybe of you set it to around 35mm you will get a better feel. Just make small adjustments until you get the feel you want.

I should point out that 1.0 kg/mm springs are the stiffest spring they sell.

Installing Race Tech Springs I am a rather heavy guy. I come in about 220lbs and dropping :D ! I found that my bike is bouncy - from mostly the front. Last year I changed the fork oil and that seemed to help with the front end diving under braking but the bike is still bouncy. In order for me to get a smooth ride I would have to take off some preload, however in tight twisties it would wallow.The sag was set at 42mm for my trip across country so I could get a smooth ride. I would crank up the preload to a line or 2 showing and get my sag to around 32mm for the tight stuff but then it would get bouncy on the rough roads. So I bought some stiffer springs from race tech to remedy this. Race tech has an interactive website that will help you determine what kind of suspension pieces you need for your weight and riding style. I used the site to determine the correct spring rate I should use.The Race Tech website Calculated 1.0 kg/mm for me, compare that to the OEM springs which are 0.75 kg/mm. The 98VFR has softer springs than the VTEC. http://www.race-tech.com Here is a graph they include in the kit. The bike has a curb weight of (516lbs) + Rider (220lbs) + Equipment (helm, suit, clothes, tank-bag) (16lbs) = 752lbs I used a jack to support the bike while I removed the old springs. I unscrewed the fork caps with a socket and then lowered the jack slow enough to get at the spacers, cap, washers and springs. The instructions have some complicated details on how to find the correct spacer size. The Race Tech kit came with an aluminum tube for spacers, washers, 2 springs, instructions, and a bunch of stickers. The Race tech springs are 1 1/2" shorter than the OEM springs and they are not progressive wound, (they don't get tighter at the bottom like the OEM) just strait wound. I just measured the old springs minus the new spring length, then measured the old spacer and added the difference in spring length to that number (see the pad) and cut off new spacers. Everything was actually 1/16" shorter so I just rounded up and then remembered when I made my cut lines. I cut off a small portion on the top because the ends were not square then I cut the pipe to length. I used the first cut to measure the second spacer Side by side comparison You can see the thicker and shorter windings of the Race tech springs compared to the OEM springs. To finish up I put in the new springs, put the old washers back on, the new spacers, and shims, then I screwed the caps back on. There was some oil loss when I took the old ones out, but very little I let them drip off into the tube when I removed them. When I put the caps back on I measured the sag at the same settings I had the old springs at. (27mm) is what I came up with. The old one were set at 35mm and I could not get them to sag any less than that. I cranked off 3 lines of preload and the sag came to within 35mm of sag where I like it. I took the bike out for a short ride and lo and behold its a stiffer ride! :goof: no seriously no more bounciness like before. I still have not ridden on a bumpy road at speed yet but it feels much more stable!

Replace bad wheel bearings I have been getting my bike ready for riding season, I had a warped front brake disk and it tore up one of my wheel bearings from all the rattling when I used the brakes. I don't know if the disk warped first or the other way around. I just had a day of bike maintenance today, new chain, new tires, new bearings, new front disk, new pads. Here is my new disk, see how poor of shape the oil seal is. You can tell your bearings are bad if you can move them back and forth or in or out, they should spin but not float around inside there. Remove the brake disks 6mm hex 6 bolts. I pried out the oil seals with a large flat screwdriver, then pushed a rod thru the inside and made contact with the outer bearing and hammered it out. You have to move the rod around so you don't get the bearing twisted up. They were in bad shape that spacer needs to go back in, cleaned it up and greased it. It was rusty in there, I cleaned it up with some steel wool and greased it up. The new set $46 whew, I gotta find a cheaper source. My bearing hammer heads, I use the threaded rod to compress the bearings into the slot first. Make sure the bearing hammer is big enough to catch the outsides but not too big it wont fit. Compress The hammers have a handle on them you can attach and then bang the bearings in the rest of the way. I don't hammer them in right off the bat to keep them in strait and not damage them. Put in the spacer and do the other side.

Replace bad wheel bearings I have been getting my bike ready for riding season, I had a warped front brake disk and it tore up one of my wheel bearings from all the rattling when I used the brakes. I don't know if the disk warped first or the other way around. I just had a day of bike maintenance today, new chain, new tires, new bearings, new front disk, new pads. Here is my new disk, see how poor of shape the oil seal is. You can tell your bearings are bad if you can move them back and forth or in or out, they should spin but not float around inside there. Remove the brake disks 6mm hex 6 bolts. I pried out the oil seals with a large flat screwdriver, then pushed a rod thru the inside and made contact with the outer bearing and hammered it out. You have to move the rod around so you don't get the bearing twisted up. They were in bad shape that spacer needs to go back in, cleaned it up and greased it. It was rusty in there, I cleaned it up with some steel wool and greased it up. The new set $46 whew, I gotta find a cheaper source. My bearing hammer heads, I use the threaded rod to compress the bearings into the slot first. Make sure the bearing hammer is big enough to catch the outsides but not too big it wont fit. Compress The hammers have a handle on them you can attach and then bang the bearings in the rest of the way. I don't hammer them in right off the bat to keep them in strait and not damage them. Put in the spacer and do the other side.

Change Your CHAIN and Sprockets I bought an RK gold x ring CHAIN and sprocket kit from AZ motor-sports for $140, the sprockets are OEM size and steel. I decided that I was going to clean out all the gunk that has built up for the last 30k miles on my swing arm, CHAIN guides and whatever else needs cleaning. I took off my wheel and moved the exhaust out of the way. Loosen the 17mm pinch bolt I decided to take off the CHAIN guard so I can clean that too unscrew the 2 plastic fasteners and pull them out. Remove the Hose stays, they bone shaped backers will fall out so be careful not to loose them 4 screws 2 places Here is a tip - after you clean up your CHAIN guide use some tape to stick the bone shaped backers in place makes reinstalling much easier. Remove the 2 hex bolts and take off the CHAIN guide. I loosened the rear sprocket nuts Remove the 6 bolts that hold on the clutch slave and speed sensor to get to the front sprocket, make note of the which bolts go where, they are odd sizes. So thats what the speed sensor looks like, it just couples over the bolt on the sprocket. OH my God look at all that gunk! don't loose the dowel pins inside 2 of them. With the bike in 6th loosen the bolt, I forgot the size 14mm it think, its a normal bolt not reverse thread. WAY easier than those stupid Suzuki Hex bolt and nut combos. I removed the metal CHAIN guide the crescent shaped plate with the holes in it and cleaned it up, and cleared all that gunk out of there, I just unbolted the swing-arm pivot axle and removed the sprocket and CHAIN intact. I also have a CHAIN breaker that pushes out the pins but I did not use it since the kit CHAIN is the right length, its a pain to use. Here is the new stuff Remove the rear sprocket now Sprocket comparison, definitely had signs of wear, its hard to spot but these sprockets would have killed my new CHAIN if I had not changed them out too. The front does not look worn at first glance look again I made a huge mess cleaned up all the gunk inside the sprocket well, the metal CHAIN guide, the CHAIN guard, the rubber CHAIN guide I used my CHAIN press tool to press on the master link. Pressed on now it need to be peened out. don't forget to put the O-rings on first. Fit in a rivet peen on the CHAIN too and went at it I measured the staked area 5.82mm (5.55-5.85 limit) Replace everything and your good to go, the front bolt 38ft/lbs the rear nuts 25ft/lbs

Cool you finished up the writeup I will post this in the news section.

My friend Craig was having some problems with his bike, when he would stop he could hear a clunk when he grabbed brakes. I told him his steering bearings were probably loose. So he decided to tear the bike down, he removed the steering column and cleaned the races and bearing in some solvent. This picture is the steering head, he had already removed all that stuff before I came over. I told him since he had the forks off we should go ahead and change the fork oil since he has 50k miles on them. He said "I am way ahead of you bud" as he pulled out the new fork oil he bought. Here I am dumping out the old oil, it was the wrong stuff, it was the 10w honda oil! The 96 VFR calls for 5w clear, this stuff was red like mine which is 10w. Craig said when he took off the forks he noticed that the right fork was sitting 2mm higher than the left one! Whoever serviced the forks last time must have been an idiot! We could not get the cartridge out since the hex keys he has are the rounded ones and they stripped when we tried to get the bolts out of the bottom. We just pumped them out as best we could and added the new oil, 14.5oz to a height of 7" to the top of the fork I had to pour some out and add some to get the correct oil height. We counted the treads to make sure that the cap was screwed in the same spot on the damping rods for both forks, that way the preload would be the same for both forks. This is the top race, it was slightly pitted but nothing major, I told Craig he should replace them, he agreed but not for the moment. (The clean bearings before we repacked them with grease. we packed in new grease and slipped the steering column back on fitted on the bolt and hand tightened it made sure it was smooth and not too tight. Craig tapped on the pinch bolt and tightened it down then bent the clips back in place Here I am setting the forks to their CORRECT position in the triple tree 39mm to from the triple tree to the top of the fork crown. Here is Craig tightening the bottom pinch bolts after I set the forks We put the axle in to make sure the forks were not twisted in the triple tree made sure it lined up correctly. We put the wheel on, brakes, and fairings and then we set the sag to 35mm for front and back, he likes a slightly soft ride. Heh Craig rides really fast and I wonder just how fast he can ride with a bike that is actually set up correctly :goof: it is a wonder how he rode it like that the way he does

Well some of you may remember I hit a patch of dirt going thru a corner last summer I almost managed to gain control but before I could stop my foot-peg jammed into the side of the road and I was thrown off the bike. There was some damage to the fairing but the worse part was that the rear fender had torn loose from one of the bolt points, I just shattered a hole where the bolt used to be. My brother in law told me his older brother rides a VFR like mine and he said he had a rear fender that was slightly scratched up but was in better shape than mine, when he came for Thanksgiving he brought it with him and just let me have it for nothing. Thanks Bro! Well it was cracked in several places but it did not have as severe damage as my fender so I decided I would try to repair it. I went to the welding supply shop, they sell a gas plastic welding kit, but I used a hot soldiering iron and some ABS plastic sticks, I just doped in some ABS over the cracks on both sides and smoothed it over as best I could, I had to do this over in a few places cause the extra plastic did not take hold in some cases. This is a pic of the where I busted a hole in my fender, its about 30 degrees outside so I just took this one inside, this is where it broke. Here is where I welded some of the cracks on the inside You can see where he scratched it The point where the rear brake lights was cracked on both sides, I really had to fuse in allot of ABS to fix the cracks I began to sand out the rough welds here It is nice having a free fender to experiment on! I don't think I would have attempted to do this on my own fender. Here I took a round file and shaped the welded part to make it look like it was before I welded it. A close up of where I filed it back to shape I have allot more sanding to do and some spots don't look quite right, the upper holes where the frankenbolts go need allot of work to get them smooth and round. I will post more pics as the work progresses.

I found that when I brake for a tight turn at slow speed I was getting chatter in the forks, its really unnerving so I decided to tackle the steering head bearings. ?Most of the work involved is taking parts off to get to the bearings. Removing Fairings The side fairings are rather easy to take off remove all the bolts and just pop it off nice and easy, there are a couple of plastic tabs in the wheel well and 2 more bolts in the scoop, 2 on the very bottom. ?It is the front fairing that can be tricky since there are hidden fasteners under other pieces. Remove the mirrors - 5mm hex bolts Under the mirror is a screw that must be removed Remove the screws on the inner moldings Another hidden screw inside the molding The front cowl is ready to be pulled loose Now you can unplug the two lights and turn signals Remove the fender Taking off the wheel loosening the axle bolt Loosening the axle pinch bolts Removing the brake calipers this side is 12mm bolts the other is 6mm hex I lifted the bike with a jack under the pipes and pulled off the wheel, then I started to remove the hose attachments and the horn assembly. Remove the horn assembly Take off the hose attachments 4 bolts one is behind the hose so its last I loosened the four pinch bolts on the triple clamp unbolted the clipons and slid out the forks, I took a card paper and used it to mark the height of the forks in the clamps for easy reference when reassembling. ?I used a large crescent wrench on the top clamp bolt, thats a no brainier it has to come off. Here is the steering column Bend the tabs flat and tap off the top pinch bolt with a hammer and a flat screwdriver. Honda sells an expensive socket for this but I dint have the time to find it. They are not on too tight Unscrew the bottom bolt and remove the clip, then the column just falls out careful not to let it drop, remove the old bearing sets. Hammering out the bottom race The races have to be hammered out, the frame has notches for you to do this, I used a metal rod and hammer and tapped on both sides until they popped out. Looking up you can see the notches The old races came out easy The old races where visibly pitted and that was the cause of my chattering forks, too much play in the column does that. You can see where the ball bearing pitted the race I gently clamped the column and started to hammer the race off This was a bit awkward, I used a rag in the vice and hammered on each side until the race came off, it took about five minutes. ?I did not use a torch since I tend to burn myself with those. ?It just took patients and evenly hammering it so it would not twist and bind on the column. Now its off I saved the old races to use as hammers to make contact with the strong part of the new bearings to keep from damaging the tapered rollers. New dust collar and slide on the new bearing The new bearings are binded with the outer races the old ones were separate pieces. I flipped the old race over and found a pipe that was long and wide enough to make contact and hammered the new bearing in. Using the old race to hammer in the new one The inside races are tapered not concave, I have a bearing hammer to use for those. Greased up race first then gently hammered them into place. Fitted the new race on the bottom Hammered it in the rest of the way I have a bearing hammer that has interchangeable heads for different sized bearings, this one fit the top race just right. Now the top race its in, now grease the race surface good. Pack grease on the new bearings Fit the column back in from the bottom Make sure the bearings are snug Put on the top dust seal I screwed on the flange and tightened it not too tight so that it turned easy but not loose, over tight could ruin your new bearings, too loose and your in trouble. ?It should take about 7 lbs of force to move the handle bar fully assembled you should not feel it grinding thats too tight. ?Just as IntAcepter suggested I followed his procedures for the most part. Now fitting all the other parts back on, ?I find the bike sits a bit higher now cause they are taller tapered bearings, so the bikes rides a might bit higher. ?I am going to back off some preload first and see how it feels, if it feels like it used to ?I will then lower the forkes about 5mm if the thats the case.</font>

ROTFLMAO........... put some playing cards on the spokes, bannana seat. heh Put the sensor on the rear swingarm and the magnet on the inside of the rear wheel out of sight. There is a how to with a picture of how somebody mounted his on the front disk brake.

The reason I never went about doing this mod is I like to try different tires, Dunlops, Bridgestones, Avons, ect to find the best setup. I understand the speed sensor is run off of the same shaft as the front sprocket. There is no permenent way of calibrating it since tires wear down, esp rear tires, front tires spins a different rate as the rear around corners. Say you install the yellow box and calibrate it to some outside source like a radar gun or a GPS (set up hi or low from the dip switches 5%,10% or more) and then you ride it for 3000miles it will be off again because you wore off 1/4" of rubber, so now the tire profile is smaller your going slower than indicated because you calibrated it with a tire that was 1/4" thicker in diameter. So you put on new tires again and the dynamics change yet again. There is alot of uncertainty in the whole idea! nah I can deal with the little bit of inaccuracy! But still show us the pictures of your install! I am interested in the whole thing!

I got an email from Andy at Kiasan tech I will share with you.

Brendan, Yes that is true, all you get on the hi beams is the same 45 watt output as lo. its just aimed differently. Take a look at the bulb in the picture see how they use a diffuser cup to spread the light out for the lo beam. My mod just turns them both on at the same time, its much cheaper than buying a set of outboard lights and gives a much wider field of view with greater depth. You can upgrade the bulbs to 55x55 watts and get even better lighting I did and the voltmeter does not drop significantly. Once I had my heated vest on hi, the heated grips on hi, and my headlights duel lighted and the volt meter stayed at 13.5volts, no dipping of light when I stopped at a stop light either. It was really cold out and dark that night, my visor was practically iced over. 30 degrees out but still dry thank God, no snow or icy conditions. Worked well, out on a lonley highway heading home from Denver, nobody on the road but me.

Nope works like a charm, man you really dug this one up from the dead! I posted this last July! It has a switch that you can turn it off or on, plus I dont ride with my brights on! maybe daytime but not superbrite! I have a voltmeter on the dash and when it turn it on its right about 13.5 volts, which is about normal for my bike.

I popped your write up on the news page!

Yea while I was in San Fran the fog would make it beep funny and the turn signal would light up constantly, as soon as the weather would clear up it would work agian, it does it when I wash the bike too. I still would rather have it than not I might take it apart and sqeeze some epoxy on the circuits so it does not short with mositure.

My unit still cancels the signal but in order to turn on my blinker again you have to manually cancel it, I understand that you have a running light override however when the unit cancles your signal can you just switch the signal on to get to blink again or do you have to push it in first (manually cancle it) My unit would freeze up in fog too, just one long light!

OH ok your unit is different than mine I thought it was somthing else. What the signal minder does is when you turn on your signal to go left or right, you have to cancel it manually to get it to shut off. If your like me you will leave it blinking for miles! The minder shuts it off after a programmed amount of time like 10 sec or 1 min, so you dont look like a jerk riding down the freeway with your merge blinker on the whole way to work! ?I have one of the first ones, what I dont like about mine is that if the signal minder turns off the signal because I forgot to, I still have to use the button like I was canceling the signal manuall to get it to blink again, hopefully they adressed this with your unit. They also have a brake light interupter so that when you are at a stop light signaling to turn, as long as the brake is set it wont cancel, for those really long stop lights. I hope you bought it off the website because the group gets a 10% discount for all Kisan products. Their shop is only a mile from where I live!

Is this a signal minder or a head light modulator? my signal minder was a simple plug into the old socket type of thing I am not sure whats going on here, why is that wire getting spliced? for the brake light interuption? I assume your not done adding comments?

Oil Change and Radiator Flush I began by first removing the 2 lower fairings with the bike on the center stand. First I drained the oil, position the drain pan below the oil plug. The manual says to warm up the engine to get the oil to flow better, I don't do that since I like my skin unburnt, I just let it flow out for a very long time! Remove the drain plug 17mm, Inspect it for pitting the soft metal washer might need to be replaced if it is pitted. When replacing the oil filter it is best to put a rag over the headers cause oil always spills out onto them. It is difficult to remove the oil filter by hand or using a ring type wrench, I use this Honda filter wrench $7.00 I removed the old filter but did not replace it yet since I need the room to do the radiator flush. I did however replace the oil plug. Flushing the Radiator Remove the drain plug from the water pump, make sure the bike is not hot! You will get burned! The bike was cold here, the fluid will not come out until you introduce air into the system. I drained the cylinder plug now, you can see why I did not put the oil filter back on, because it was in the way, make sure your bucket is positioned cause the old antifreeze squirts out about a foot and a half. Here is a better view of where that plug is It just starts gushing out, once its almost done go over to the other side of the bike and open the radiator cap, more will come gushing out. radiator cap open now At this point I began pouring in distilled water into the radiator cap, and watched until the fluid coming out was clear! put both drain plugs back in screw on the oil filter 7ft/lbs screw on the oil plug fill the oil up 3.5 quarts approx fill up the radiator with distilled water start the motor till it warms up then turn it off wait until it cools down check the motor oil level top it up to the level in the sight glrear remove the drain plug and radiator cap and drain out the distilled water Once all the water is removed from the radiator replace the drain and mix the antifreeze. I used simple ethylene glycol, Wall-Mart brand, its aluminum block radiator/motor safe, and it contains no silicates, you don't want to use a brand that is not rated for aluminum engines. Silicates can damage your water pump, most major brands do use silicates so read the label. You can use the Honda brand, its made by the same company that makes Citgo gas (Seven Eleven stores brand), Citgo also makes the Honda brand oil. The Wal-Mart stuff is fine, aluminum safe and no silicates (read the owners manual its all there). I mixed it 50% antifreeze and 50% water, that 70/30 is the best concentration for the greatest temperature extremes. 50/50 is as low as you want to go but gives the best cooling in the summer. DON'T USE TAP WATER the minerals will build up and cause blockages, use distilled water. I poured it in my 50/50 mixture about a gallon till it filled to the brim of the cap, I also poured out the overflow fluid and replaced it with new fluid in the over flow jug. put the cap on start up the motor and rev it a bit, turn it off and check the level again, top it up if need be. A word about oil I usually change my oil about every 3000 miles, when I do I always change the filter too, I don't use expensive synthetic stuff since that oil is designed not to break down over longer periods of time, if you change your oil as often as I do the oil is usually still fairly clean, its a waste of money to use expensive oil. As long as it is the right weight 10w 40, no molybdenum or graphite additives as it harms the wet clutch. They say your oil does not need additives, don't use castor based, or non detergent, vegetable oils! Also since your riding a bike that has a wet clutch the friction plates of the clutch are soaked in oil, you want to change the oil often since the friction material of the wet clutch wears off and circulates thru the filter, don't wait more than the recommended 6k miles to change it.