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HispanicSlammer

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Everything posted by HispanicSlammer

  1. I had a warm day today so I shoed on a new set of Pilot Roads and set my sag. I had the preload backed pretty much all the way out and the forks only sagged 30mm. So I put a jack under the header and screwed off the fork caps till lowered it a bit to take off the cap. Pulled out the spacers and cut off about 8mm of each one. Put them back in and reset my sag. Now I have a bit more adjustment on my preload to work with. Sagging about 35mm up front and 32 in back with the preload showing 3 of 6 lines.
  2. HMM you can see the thicker ring even on the stock rebound valve here. border='0' alt='user posted image' />
  3. Do you mean can you use a compression valve for a rebound valve?? No the rebound valve has a large teflon strip while the compression has a small o-ring (cause its is static and does not move). If you look closer at them you will notice the difference when you look at the side profile.
  4. I double checked on the Race Tech sight, the F3/F4/VFR use the same gold valves. You can look up the part numbers on the race tech site. I am not sure how the F4 adjusts for compression so that may be different. I know the f3 I used did not have compression adjustment. But if its like the ajustment on the rebound the valve and shim stack are a seperate componet from the ajustment mechanism. I just swaped them out from the VFR to the F3 cartridge. I made an adjustment to make the compression shims a bit softer but that was because I thought they were a bit harsh even before I did the swap. For Race Tech Gold Valves Remember this, compression adjustment shim stacking is determined by the wieght of the rider Rebound stacks are determined by the spring rate only - I guess indirectly rebound it is determined by the wieght of the rider if you using a proper spring wieght for the load.
  5. Well the VTEC is the same thing, non adjustable, overdamped less undersprung for the big guys. The VTEC suspension is good but not as good as my Ohlins shock f3 racetech suspension is now!
  6. You cant remove the damping rod from the cartidge without tearing the cartidge apart, stamped together. so a bent one is just bent. Perhaps some heat to bent it strait but it might be stress cracked.
  7. I ended up removing the lower pinch bolt on the back of the master cyclinder. This frees up about 1/4 of play on the adjustment screw, which lowers the brake petal almost an inch. I lowered it so much the brake rod to the master cylinder was almost touching the brake lever. I suppose if I need more adjustment I will have to grind down the rod a few mm for clearance.
  8. This modification is actually pretty standard for upgrading VFR forks. To take the Cartridge/Fork Caps from a CBR and install them into a VFR. For a 5th Generation VFR such as my 1998 VFR the cartridge from an f3 will work, and for a VTEC the Cartridge from an F4 will work. I found a set of 96 F3 forks on Ebay that were sort of in bad shape. Tubes were bent a bit but not enough to bend the cartridges. The fork lowers also had some epoxy over a hole in the fork. I did not ask why I can only assume a collision with something. I did not need those parts anyways just what was inside. Here is how they arrived, unfortunately they came in a box that was the wrong size and was taped with Duct tape, one of the forks actually punctured the box and so there was some damage to the fork cap from impact with something hard. I only paid $75 bucks for the darn things so I did not complain, but not good feedback. But delivered as stated in the auction - I know I know for those of you who know about my problems with Ebay and VFRd I have since decided to move on and not try to fight Goliath anymore, not worth it. Call me a Hypocrite if you will for using it. The forks were missing the snap ring and the bushings and oil seal were loosely hanging out, and the epoxied fork bottom was pretty ugly. I removed the fork caps and slid the long adjustment tube out of the damping rods, removed the springs and spacers. This is where I ran into problems, apparently the guy who sold these to me had already tried to remove the cartridges cause all the oil was gone - fine with me less mess! However when I put my Allen wrench on the bottom of the fork to remove the bottom bolt it would just spin - I tried applying tension to the damping rod to get a bite on the screw but the bolt just continued to spin without unscrewing. I HAD TO GET MID-EVIL ON IT!! YUP thats a hacksaw! Look at that awful epoxy job. I just cut off the lower part of the fork to gain access to the cartridge. You see what was happening is the bolt had frozen into the compression valve body and was spinning the valve around inside the cartridge - nothing I could do but cut the thing open to get to the cartridge. Here you can see the cartridge bottom and the bottom of the fork cut off I was careful not to damage the actual cartridge itself. I pulled off the top of the fork body as much as I could The fork tube will not come off until the cartridge is unscrewed there is a flange that prevents it from coming off. What I did now was maneuver the cartridge bottom onto my vise so I could clamp the compression valve and prevent it from spinning. It worked, I was going to toss the F3 compression valve anyway. Two months ago I replaced the compression valves on my cartridge with Race Tech Gold Valves, they are the same size as the F3 valves so I just transplanted my Gold Valves into the F3 Cartridge. Here you can see the parts I needed The F3 cartridge, the fork cap and with the rebound adjustment rod are the parts I needed. looks almost the same as the VFR cartridge but with that adjustment rod that slides down the damping rod tube. After removing the locking clip on the bottom of the F3 cartridge I removed the Rebound and Compression Valves. You can see the rebound valve is a different design from the VFR valve but the compression valve is the same - no adjustment. This is a picture of the original VFR valves notice the difference. The F3 rebound valve has a hole that can be opened like a faucet, there is a long rod that can be moved up and down to open the hole to control the flow of oil. Here you can see a side by side comparison of the two cartridges The F3 is shorter but has a longer fork cap, the VFR also had a fork oil lock piece that serves as a spacer cause the forks extend longer on a VFR due to the difference in rake between the two bikes. Longer rake requires longer forks. Here I am transplanting my Gold-valves compression into the F3 fork. I also transplanted my Gold Rebound valves into the F3 forks. I decided to make an adjustment on the compression valve by removing one .15 x 17mm shim for a bit softer ride, the ride was still a bit harsh. Race Tech shim stacks are designed for racing and so can be a bit harsh on street applications, its just a matter of removing a shim to your liking. They actually provide a series of recipes for different shim stacks to give you a harder or softer ride - mostly its just a matter of adding a shim or taking one off from the recommended recipe. If your not quite sure what I am talking about I wrote a more detailed description of the VFR Valves in this Thread its a more detailed reference piece with diagrams and such, refer to it if you need more info. Intalling Race Tech Gold Valves All the pieces side by side The Springs side by side I thought I might need to adjust the size of the spacers on my springs - I use Race Tech springs designed for my weight. They are stiffer than the Honda Springs and are single rate. So I put the spacers and springs side by side and they turned out to be the same length together. so I did not cut the spacers to compensate. I may still need to cut some of the spacer to get the bike to sag right but from looking at them side by side I determined that they do not need to be cut as of yet. It all depends on if the bike sags properly when I get them back on the bike. I decided to put the oil lock piece from the VFR cartridge on the bottom of the F3 cartridge. The F3 just bolted right into the compression valve. The VFR had that lock piece in there between the compression valve and the bottom of the fork. All put together. It looks like the bike sits a bit high with the preload backed all the way out, I still have to measure the sag so I may still have to cut the spacers I will report on that later after I do my sag measurement. Springs, spacers, washers, lock-tip all installed. I also solved my oil leak by just buying a whole new oil pan. I stripped out the threads on the oil plug on the old one and tried to repair it with some metallic epoxy. Did not work! I called around to machine shops to bore it out and tap it for a larger plug. Ended up just as cheap to get a new oil pan! Brand New Oilpan
  9. I installed new Race Tech rebound and compression valves in my forks yesterday and put in new bushings and seals. My bike has clicked over to 55,000 miles so it was high time to rebuild my forks. I usually just freshen up the oil but this time I thought a complete rebuild was in order, along with new valving to make my bike handle better. The Parts Parts List Below Race Tech Fork Gold Valve (compression) Race Tech Fork Rebound Gold Valve 2 quarts of US-1 ultra slick fork oil (5w) Pair Fork Bushings Inner Pair Fork Bushings Outer Pair Showa Oil Seals Pair Showa Dust Seals Paul Thede's Technical Edge Video Parts came out to $477 with the VFRd 15% discount, I will have to give them a call to confirm the discount is still availible for all. Paul Thede is the guru at Race Tech who designs Race Tech parts and owns the business, he provides a very informative instructional video that has many tips to help your installation go smoothly, however our application is different than what is shown in the video but there are procedural protocols that are shared no matter what fork your rebuilding. Here is a closer look at the parts that come in the kit. All the parts are ordered separate but they give you a complete list on the website of what you need to rebuild your forks properly and valve them to your needs. Shown here are the two sets of valves labeled in the picture, many of the parts are for different types of cartridges, Showa, KYB. So there are parts you will not need or use. They sent me 3 sets of various shims to sort through, check valve springs, cupped washers with built in sleeves, O rings, baseplate shims, check valve shims, nuts, and thread lock compound. Oh and a boat load of Race Tech stickers, I have them all over my computer now. NOTE: I already had Race Tech springs installed from Last year, if your going through all the trouble of rebuilding your forks getting fork springs rated for your style and weight is a must - www.vfrdiscussion.com/scgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=13;t=1500%5DHere is the link to the Race Tech Spring How-To Prep Work - Getting Started Loosen the Clip on Bolts and remove them out of the way Pull off the clip ons Marking fork height Here is a tip - take a piece of paper and mark your set height on the forks, it is easier than remeasuring, especially if you have lowered them and like the way they are. If you don't own a vice than use the one available too you its already there - your own triple clamp, loosen the fork cap. Remove the front fender 4 @ 5mm Remove the axle bolt 21mm Remove the caliper bolts right side 2 @ 12mm I have a bunch of plastic buckets I use to toss the parts in so I don't loose them, some guys put them on a paper towel and sort them out, whatever you do just don't kick them under the counter like I did, PITA!! Gently slide the caliper off the brake disk DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE LEVER WHEN THE CALIPERS ARE OFF or it wont go back on easy Remove the Allen bolts on the Linked Brake System, notice the secondary master cylinder at the top that is what activates your rear linked brake. 2 @ 6mm remove the caliper. It is easier to start with this bolt first but I cant ever seem to remember that, it will try to lift the whole caliper as you turn otherwise. These Allen bolts often freeze on from the heat of the brakes being used. I would suggest buying the service manual for specs on torque settings, and more detailed procedures of removing these parts. It is an invaluable source of information. Take the time to inspect your bolts, every time these are removed and retorqued the bolt gets stretched, this one is shot as you can see the threads are stretched I will need to replace all these caliper bolts. Loosen but don't remove the 4 axle pinch bolts 4 @ 12mm total both forks Now I have loosened or removed the bolts before raising the wheel. I prefer not to go torquing on bolts when the bike is suspended by a jack. Rasing the front wheel is easy just a block of wood under the headers and a jack, with the center-stand down, it is stable. Just as it is spelled out in your owners manual I use a rod and rubber mallet to punch out the axle careful not to damage the inner threads or peen the soft axle metal so the bolt wont go back in (note I no longer do it this way - use a screw driver threaded through the holes in the axle - pull it out by twisting and gently pulling the axle out) Unbolt the brake hoses, start with this one cause the hose is in the way of the other two hanger bolts, 4 @ 10mm total Swing the hose out of the way and remove the brake line manifold The picture is moved out a bit so you can see the placement of the brake-lines There is no need to remove the fairings unless you want more working room, I did not but its up to you. Reach up with a wrench and loosen the lower triple clamp bolts on both sides 2 @14mm these are really cranked on, I use a pipe over the handle of my wrench for a bit more leverage. Loosen the upper clamp bolts now and begin to slide the forks out one by one out the bottom. NOTE: if you do not own a clamp you can use the triple clamps here to pull out the cartridge, loosen the bolt at bottom and let the oil drain out the bottom then pull off the fork cap here. I would find a vice if you can that has aluminum jaws that wont mar the forks, I don't so I used some soft wood. After you loosen the top clamp it should practically fall out. Make note of which fork goes on which side, a label on some masking tape will do nicely. I am quite familiar with them so I did not. REBUILDING THE FORKS Remove the bottom fork bolt careful not to lose it, notice the baseboard I used to clamp the forks in so they did not mar the metal. This was also the step I mentioned earlier about doing while still clamped to the bike. With the bottom bolt out you should be able to pull out the whole inner assembly after you screw off the fork cap, it will be oily so have some paper towels or rags available to clean up, put them in your oil pan. Note: it is easier to do this job with the fork cap already loose, I do that as soon as I remove the clip-ons with the forks clamped in the bike triple tree. I also screw the preload out all the way so that the top does not protrude out at all. Remove the fork cap from its pinch bolt 2 14mm wrenches should do the trick, back the preload all the way out while loosening the fork cap first this moves the cap out of the way of the pinch bolt and you can get enough clearance for the two wrenches, otherwise the cap covers up the wrench flats. Lay out the parts in order as they come out. NOW IS THE TIME TO CLEAN ALL YOUR PARTS! With a solvent of some sort to remove any grime or metal bits that could destroy your valves, o-rings, oil seals and such. Note: that little zip tie on the fork tube helps me set my sag when I am alone I tossed it and will put on a new one when I go to reset my sag. The Oil lock actually fits on the end of the cartridge and gets bolted with that bottom bolt you removed. You must remove the Oil Lock from the Cartridge in order to complete the work, it just slides off but may be full of junk. Also if you have trouble with that bottom bolt then the cartridge is spinning along with the bolt, it helps to pull on the damping rod to get a little tension on the bolt so it will remove instead of just spin while removing it from the fork. Replacing bushings and the oil seal Clamp the fork somehow so you can work on the thing, a vise is invaluable here If you don't have one I suppose you can leave it clamped on the bike but make sure the bike is secure so you can pull on it without falling over, again using a vice with aluminum jaws are best. I tapped on the fork protector until it popped off pry off the old dust seal, it may be reused if you inspect it and its looks good. I just replaced all that stuff Remove the metal retaining clip Now here is the fun part, make sure the fork bottom is firmly secured in your vice or whatever your using to hold it firm yank on the fork tube a few times until the whole thing comes out, like a ram rod. Fork tube is removed displaying the two bushings, back up ring, and the oil oil seal. The only part I decided to reuse was the back up ring, the bushings had the protective Teflon worn away and the oil seal had actually cracked and spring inside rusted a bit. The oil seal has two coiled springs that wrap around it to provide wiping tension on the seal. The busing are split down the side so they are easy to remove, push a flat head screwdriver in the gap and pry it apart then pop them off. The oil seal just slides off. You can see the crack in my seal and the rust, no wonder why I could feel every bump in the road the oil seal would not slide correctly on the fork tube. You should also inspect your fork tube for out of round and any nicks or rock pits, sand them out smoothly with 400 grit or better sandpaper to remove any sharp edges that would destroy your new seals. If its bent or nicked up too badly replace the whole thing. Paul instructs in the video to use a couple of V Blocks and a dial indicator, or roll the tube over some plate glass and check for gaps with a feeler Gage. Mine had a few rock dings so I sanded them out, mostly way up at the top where the fork hardly ever gets too. You can see the Teflon has worn off the sides but the inner bearing looks good, replaced it anyway. This bearing sits inside the recess on the fork tube. The upper slider bearing was completely trashed, the Teflon had come off pretty much evenly over the entire leading edge of the surface. If there are large chunks of Teflon missing on your bearing that could indicate a dent in your fork tube. Slide on the new parts Paul instructs on the video that before sliding on the new oil seal, to cut the end off a plastic bag and fit it over the fork tube to keep the seal from being damaged as you slide it over the inner bearing recess. Me I just popped it on from the other side and avoided sliding it over the recess. Make sure you put it on the right way and not back-wards. There is printing on the side that shows up, the non printed side goes down or inside the fork bottom. You should take note of this as you remove the old parts. Push the parts in as far as they can go, then you will need to drive them in. Race tech sells a fork seal driver, he drives in the bushings first then the oil seal, using the driver on the back up ring first then drives in the seal. I do not have that fancy seal, you can find a pipe of the right diameter to drive it in but I could not find one either so I just used the old oil seal at a driver and tapped on it with a hammer making sure to go around the entire surface and not drive in the seal crooked and ruin it. I put some plastic on the fork tube so I would not scratch that as I tapped the oil seal in. Slide the old seal on as a driver Here I am tapping the seals in I could not get the plastic to stay on as I took the picture, but you need to be careful not to damage the fork tube or the seal by going at it too hard. You need to tap in that seal far enough to get the retaining clip back in. The dust seal and the fork protector just slide on finger tight, there is a notch on the protector that slides into a groove on the fork bottom make sure to line them up first and tap it on gently with your hammer. Re-valving the cartridge You should be able to push the bottom of the cartridge in with your thumb, this reveals the retaining clip. Remove the retaining clip gently you can break it pretty easy if you manhandle it. Now you can push on the damping rod and the compression valve should pop out the end. This is how they are oriented as you push them out the bottom of the cartridge. Closeup of the compression valve stock form. look at the flimsy shim stack, those shims were so thin, like .08 mm in thickness and not as many as Race Tech calls for. The rebound valve on the end of the damping rod. You will need to clamp on the body of the compression valve in order to remove the retaining bolt, this one is an Allen bolt, 5mm and it was on tight with lock-tight. You must be careful not to damage the body or it wont go back into the cartridge, I ended up clamping on the very end where it was recessed to get enough clamping force to hold it firm enough. A digital micrometer or a tool like this is invaluable for sorting shims, I bought this one for $20 bucks at Harbor Freight tools I took apart the stock valve and laid out the pieces in order on a paper towel and determined that I would need to reuse the base plate, and the cupped washer with the built in spring washer and of course the Allen bolt the rest I would use from the Race Tech kit. Here is a diagram of how the compression valve is set up. Here is the custom valving stack recommended by Race Tech it consists of the shims displayed. There were several shims to sort out in the kit and I sorted and measured them all. These shim kits are designed to work with the gold valves so trying to use them with the stock valves would net a bad result, they are thicker than stock and there are more of them. Basically Race Tech has 10 recipes for street applications of shim stacks which vary the number of.15x17 shims used and create a different stiffness profile. I used the c33 recipe layed out in the picture. It is a tiered stack that is supposed to give you a bit of flexibility with high and low speed damping, the speed pertaining to how fast the wheel travels up and down as it rides over the road, it is tired so you get more damping at low speed and less at high-speed. flexing those shims in an ever decreasing manner as it encounters then next shim. The faster the fluid travels though the ports the more the shims flex to let the fluid though the slower the less they flex so you have a tunable valving set for how you bike handles. Race Tech provides you with a code that you can plug into their website to get the custom shim stack you need. Here I am putting the shims on after I placed the gold valve in There is a recess on the top of the gold valve that fits neatly onto the sleeve of the "top hat" or cupped washer, this one has a built in spring washer but you have to make sure that the sleeve clears the check valve plate and does not sit on it cause that check valve must float freely or else you ruin your ride. The check valve plate looks just like any other shim but it is thicker and it has a bigger hole in the center to accommodate the thickness of the sleeve. Make darn sure your check valve plate is free! :media: www.vfrdiscussion.com/uploads/2004_11_15goldvalve/checkvalve.wmv%5DCheck valve inspection video I made this little movie to demonstrate how the check valve must float freely if you cant move it with your fingers then the sleeve is most likely clamping it down and you will have to take it apart to free it. I used a replacement instead of reusing this one. Make sure the sides of the valve sit flat with the plate, sand the valve with some 400 grit paper if there are nicks on the valve. The video from Race Tech explains to use a plate glass and sand the valve in a figure 8 motion till its perfectly flat. Locktight the threads, then screw it into the body, torque the bolt to 30 INCH pounds, or 2.4 FOOT lbs. Its not much! Here is a side by side comparison of the two compression valves note the small holes of the stock one. Most of the valving action is done by the shims on the Race Tech version since the fork is non adjustable you must drill a small bleed hole into the gold valve, pointed out where in the drawing above. Race Tech calls for a 1.3mm hole to be drilled into the valve to bleed the valve. This is done with a #55 drill bit that are hard to find, I had to go to a hobby shop to find one. One of those places that sell model trains and such, they had them for cents a piece. For racing they say to use a #53 drill at 1mm. You can see the bleed hole on the right side of the O ring, it is necessary otherwise your bike will not be damped correctly. Make sure to clean out the metal bits and blow it out. Its important that the parts be clean of any grime and metal bits Here is a tip from the Race Tech video, sort out your shims and store them this way for your next fork Rebound Valves The end of the rebound bolt is peened over at the factory so you have to file it flat to get the nut off easy. Time to get serious, Dremel tool and safety glasses! Now you should be able to get the nut off, 10mm nut Chamfer the end to get the new bolt on easy Compare the rebound valves, notice the large gray Teflon band on the new gold-valve Rebound gold-valves use a bigger shim stack than the compression valves 11 shims most of them are .15 x 17 and this stack is also tunable, Race Tech determines this by the spring rate of your fork spring. They give you an array of spring rates and a formula to determine how many shim to put on, its pretty simple. This is based on only the spring rate and not how fat you are heh :goof: I had the r20 recipe that uses 10 @ .15 x 17mm shims and 1 @ .10 x9mm shim. The formula takes into account the oil weight and the rate of the fork spring, and diameter of the damping rod, ours is a 10mm rod. You get a nice little cheat sheet to figure it all out with. Flipped over Here I used mostly new parts with the exception of a spacing shim near the bolt. New bolt too also torqued to 30 INCH pounds and treated with locktight. Here I am drilling a #55 bleed hole into the rebound valve. You must also drill a hole into the rebound valve since it is not adjustable, again 1.3mm or #55 drill bit size, these bleed holes are oriented to face the inside chamber of the cartridge. Make sure you blow out the metal bits and clean it up. Slide the valves back in the way they went in and put in the retaining clip. Put the oil lock piece on the bottom and slide it into the fork tube, then put on a new copper washer on the bottom fork bolt and tighten the cartridge to the bottom of the fork. Fill the oil level of the fork to 120mm after pumping the damping road to bleed the air out of the cartridge until you feel resistance, make sure the fork tubes are compressed when filling the fork oil to level. Everything pretty much goes back on the way it came off, don't over-tighten the fork cap to the fork tube it only needs 6ft/lbs but the pinch nut and fork cap inside should be 14ft/lbs Set your sag correctly 30 - 35 mm.
  10. Even so I keep the bike in a locked shed, dont leave it out much. The dzus clips are really handy for quick work.
  11. MY fairings? I guess you havent seen them up close, lowsided on some ice last year.
  12. Well I have about 35k miles on this fan I installed, it just pooped out on me. Thats 4 cents a mile!
  13. Craigs bike a 2002 VTEC was constantly spewing antifreeze out of the overflow tube, sometimes onto the rear tire while riding into turns. He reported that twice at our last track day that he slipped from this happening. Our trip to Maroon Bells following him I could see water pouring out of the tube. He would refill the overflow tank with water at each stop, and the left side radiator was not hot. A sure sign that the thermostat was stuck closed. Click Here for a large picture with text labels Craig had already removed the tank and the air-box when I arrived at his house. He moved the tank to the seat and placed it back-wards, unplugging the fuel pump and fuel sensor. He unplugged the Map sensor and removed the vacuum tube, he unplugged the air box temperature sensor and unplugged the two crank case breather tubes. He Removed the air filter and the four velocity stacks, he had the taller ones in the back short ones in the front. Craig removed the tank and air box After removing the tow side fairings, on the left side is a hole for you to probe a long screwdriver, it needs a very long Phillips to loosen the clamps on the intakes. Sticking in the screwdriver to loosen the intake clamps Shine a light down to see the clamp and loosen it, that cylinder on the left is the wax element. Loosen the four bottom clamps, this is the left front Remove the drain plug and screw off the radiator cap to let out all the antifreeze Gently pull on the fuel rails to lift the throttle body out, be very careful here not to force anything. There are two hoses connected to the wax element that need to be removed, the idle speed cable must be threaded from the right side and allowed to come loose careful not to break it. There are several wires in the throttle body for the fuel injection you can leave them on. We removed them to treat them with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Make note of which connectors go where most are unique but the fuel injector connectors can get confused. You will need to remove the throttle cables by removing the two hex nuts on the throttle cable bracket and then popping the cables from the throttle wheel. Gently lift the throttle body out carefully not to force anything I removed the throttle cables and Craig threaded the idle screw cable free, here I am removing the two hoses to the wax element With the throttle bodies free we unhooked the wire harness and exposed the thermostat housing. Most of the clamps were facing down so we had to remove the housing from the other side of the hose. Tape over the intakes so nothing gets inside the engine Remove the old thermostat, there are two 8 mm bolts to loosen on the bottom and it cracks open like a clam Craig seats the new thermostat in the housing The O ring is a bit tricky its larger than the seat it fits into, with little nubs to pinch the ring into place. We turned all the clamps facing up and fitted all the hoses back on, tightened and re-tightened each one. Then reinstalled the hoses to the wax unit, threaded the idle cable back in place, connected all the electrical connectors, and gently pushed the throttle body into place. With a flash light we inspected the intakes to make sure the rubber boots were seated and began to tighten the clamps. Gently Craig seats the throttle body back onto the intakes. I am flashing a light onto the clamps as Craig works the screwdriver onto the clamp screws, they are supposed to be 7mm from nut to bolt tight. We slid the air box into place connected the temp sensor, the map sensor and the vacuum tube, connected the flapper solenoid and vacuum tube. Craig decided to leave the flapper tube disconnected and stopped it up with a screw in the hose. We replaced the air stacks tall in back and short in front. Replaced the filter, hooked up the crankcase breathers, and screwed on the top. Hooked up the gas pump and tank sensor and put the tank back in place. Filled up the radiator with 50/50 prestone no silica. We started it up - no fuel injector light so the electrical connections were correct, then we let it heat up, I put my hand on the left radiator and at 175 it started to heat up so the thermostat was working. Then we opened up the radiator cap and filled it all the way, turned on the motor and blipped the throttle until the all the air was burped out of the system. Craig put the cap on and we ran it to full temp all the way to 220 when the fan came on and the temperature leveled out. we watched the level of the overflow tank after filling it to the top line. It stayed at the same level. I think his problems with antifreeze on his rear tire are over.
  14. Are you going to fix this topic cause if not I will delete it otherwise. Dead pictures with text refering to the dead pictures.
  15. 20 amps on the VTEC its 10 amps on my 98, the switch is rated for 10 amps that I have.
  16. OK redid the writeup added the pictures into the original post.
  17. Unbolting the hangers My D&D is sounding rather blown out these days, after about two years of general abuse I decided to finally repack the can. Start by removing the exhaust from the bike. Loosen all the straps Nasty! Road Grime Take off the lead pipe I used some OO steel wool and cleaned off the caked on road grime then some Mothers Polish to polish it back to shine. Take off the rest of the pipe You have to drill out the old rivets. Drilling off the rivet heads Punch out the rest of the rivet bodies Once the rivets are punched out you can take off the end caps. ?The D&D is one solid unit with both end caps welded on, some other units have sews and are easy to get apart. ?I had to use a rubber mallet and a soft piece of pine to push the end caps out of the tube. You can see the core is blown out I used a utility knife to cut into the old packing, you can see the blown out parts Use a wire brush to clean the core I wrapped the core with steel wool to prevent blowouts I read that wrapping steel wool around the core first prevents the new packing from getting blown out. You can get stainless steel wool here. If you use plain steel wool it will rust and desintigrate. http://www.steel-wool.com Fiberglass Pack kit ready! I was going to use wire to hold the packing in but the kit said to use masking tape - so I did. Compress the packing Pop Rivet the core back in I lined up the holes and tapped the core back into the tube, I used some high temp RTV on the end caps to seal them up, I had to pop rivet them on from below cause the pins would fall into the can if I did them from above. I hammered the rivet caps flat and then cleaned the pipe and polished the whole thing with mothers polish until it shined! ?I also removed the headers and cleaned it up with a wire cup on my electric polisher. ?Painted the headers with 1200 degree black ceramic paint. Sealed up the connectors and put in new gaskets.
  18. sombody asked about how to do this in another thread
  19. I used to have the bike shimmed I took them out, It flicks better without the shims. ?I just lowered the front about 5mm instead same effect lower center of gravity. ?I did that shim a long time ago, it still a good solution for guys who cant seem to stop scraping hardparts and need more clearance.
  20. The reason for the extra relay is to make a ground circuit that works WITH the hi lo switch on your left handle bar. The extra relay is wired to the Hi circuit, and switched to dual burn when you turn on the dual burn switch, that way when you ride past a car and you need lo beams it will switch to low beam only. The third relay turns off the extra circuit off when the hi lo switch is on lo! The way you describing to get lo beam only (with just a manual switch and no extra relay), you would have to switch the main hi lo switch to lo, AND turn off the extra switch for the dual circuit at the same time. The relay takes out the extra step and makes it automatic.
  21. Where to start starting with the chain All my parts arrived one by one, the chain and sprocket set first, then the brake pads, fork oil, fork seals, and various other things. I decided to replace the cradle on my Zumo and with it install a bmw style plug in the head tube from Powerlet. They make a vfr kit so I bought it, using the existing molex setup I had before I just solidered the molex wires to the kit and then taped it all up good. I figure I need a disconnect if I want to use the new head stand I bought, I will need to move the wires out to use it. I took a look at my brakes and boy they look good up front, I decided to keep them on since the new ones are not much thicker. I was under the impression that my brakes were in bad shape when I bought the parts, not the case. So I set about removing the front wheel and taking out the forks. Fork service has become easy for me, lots of practice with the dirt bike and my vfr, buddies bikes too I have done it a number of times. My fork oil was dark and dirty as it can get. I removed all the parts and cleaned it up best as I could and then replaced the bushing and slider with new parts, new seals and topped it up with new fork oil. I thought perhaps my forks were a little harsh so I checked the spec with racetech and sure enough I had too much oil in there, I must have used stock oil hieght - I used 120 mm for the gold valve/racetech setup I have. Should be a bit less harsh on the bumps with a larger air pocket. It took me an hour to finish both forks off and anther half an hour reinstalling the front end and torquing it to spec. Country music blasting in the garage cause I cant stand Prarie Home Companion - sombody please tell that guy Garrison Keeler that he cant sing for squat, please stop! Sometimes its funny the skits but I dont agree with the guys point of view - So I changed the station. I never listen to Country music let alone a nationally syndicated program from Nashville but for most the night it was kind of fun easy listening, the longer the night the twangier it got. I got the forks done and decided to make a how-to-video (not yet edited) on chain and sproket replacement. I did not think I had time for the fork service, to stop and go over every step and deal with the camera so I skipped that. Changing sprokets is a messy job. On into the 3am region (I work nights so its old hat for me) I was done by 5am. The garage was a disaster area and grease and grime everywhere. Sounds like an opportunity to change the radiator fluid, I sort of lost my fan switch this summer and so I was boiling off on a trip to New Mexico, I used alot of water to replace the boiled off stuff, I fixed the fan switch but by then I had spit out a good portion of my coolant onto the road. A stop at the grocery store in some small town and a bottle of distilled water topped me back up. Its been super cold lately and so I started it up to see - what if I got too much water in there and not enough antifreeze? I wasnt about to chance it for the rest of the winter, the worst is yet to come! So I changed the antifreeze. I did a great job on it tightended the plug so much that it got easier as I went, so easy in fact that it came right off! Snapped - damn it! I did not have the correct size and my easy out was not getting the broken part out. Good thing I had a bucket handy I just drained off all the coolant, a sort of half ass flush job all over the garage floor. I did manage to get most of it into the bucket. I took the cover off and drilled out the hole and then tapped it with a larger plug, works doesnt leak and it did not snap off this time! ' Much more work to go, need to remove the shock and get it serviced, my old Ohlins has 70k on it now! wow time flies. My plastics are in bad bad shape and my tank is too. In think I need to replace them, I cant paint for shit so I wont even try that! Unless anybody is a painter wizz on the forum? I happen to like red! I could put some VFRD graphics on it! That would be cool eh? Removing the speed sensor Removing the clutch slave cylinder
  22. Could you clarify what you mean by both headlights? I am wondering if your 94 only has one side light up on low, like an RC51 does? Mine does indeed turn on both headlights (both sides) on the low setting, this is standard here, my friend Craig owned a 96 that also had a similar setup - I am sure the 94-97 has the same wireing circuit as my 98 and this mod can be preformed. Just consider that your adding at least 45 watts more draw. I has to be managed on and off to conserve battery power, never leave them both on without the bike running. In the US it is law that motorcycle headlights be turned on at all times. I know in Europe and the UK there is a switch to turn off your headlights.
  23. It works too good actually, too hot on hi. It heats up faster through. ?I was going to tear it open anyway and put some more stuffing in there since it has gotten worn. ?Why not try somthing like that? ?No offence taken Leo, just customizing my bike again. It is very comfortable on lo, nice little extra bit of warmth. somtimes I ride from Denver to Home and there is a section near a river that somtimes gets down to 25 degrees my lower hamstrings and butt for some reason feel the bite of the cold?
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