HispanicSlammer

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Jeez my summer is ruined for riding. I'm going to have to bow out. No big tours this year.

Mine failed over 2 years ago and cost me $2000 in repair cost, I wish the recall came out earlier.

I just got my recall notice, in it there is a provision and form for owners who have had theirs repaired to get reimbursed. Check that out. Of course my notice came from American Honda, so you will have to get the notice and reimbursement form perhaps from the dealer who sold you the bike.

I simply cannot commit at this time my employer is in the process of a sale, dont know whats going on. I want to go but if I get laid off its not gonna happen.

I almost have 50k on this bike - I will get the work done but doubt it has an issue, it would have failed by now? She needs some loving care, shock rebuild, new rear brake disc ready to put on, replacing some plastic, new shoes, new tires. I will be ready this summer to ride.

That's coming to tmac right?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Well the clear clutch covers have been around a long time, pre sebspeed, pre thurn, just not on VFRS. Mostly a show bike thing, seen them on haybusas. I have seen all sorts of crazy stuff on Hayabusa bikes that just out of this world.

Getting ready to perform my second valve service this weekend, I just got my new spark plugs in the mail, this time I am going to keep the fuel rails attached to the thottle body, I dont want to have to replace orings I will just inspect them for leaking.

Dont you get distracted by the KM/h speedo at all? I am surprised you never sourced OR MADE an new imperial faceplate, saved the other for posterity, since well you live in the USA and none of the speed limit signs are in metric.

BTW Larry, I moved the post to the homepage to feature it, and copied a pic at the top so it will show up on the HP too. good post

Having read though the posts above, I think there is an error in the installation for the rebound valves, where there is talk of drilling a low speed bypass hole into the side of the Gold Valve.

I am intimately familiar with the inside of the 5th gen fork, and this definitely already has a bypass hole in it, basically oil passes through up through the hollow shaft and exits at right angles to the shaft. I have circled the hole in HS's image. If I am not mistaken it looks like the 6th gen compression valve also has the same set-up and I have circled that as well. So just a word of caution make sure that you need that drilled hole before you make it, otherwise you will end up with too little low speed compression damping. The 5th gen compression valve definitely needs to have the hole drilled through the valve body however.

Terry the holes that you pointed out are already there from the Honda factory yes, I did not drill those holes they come that way. The only hole I drilled was in the racetech gold valve itself. Racetech specified the weep hole in the gold valve in the instructions they supplied, and no they are not that hard to understand, I had to go to a hobby shop to find the correct drill bit. Racetech uses a completely different oil then OEM fork oil and have a different set of parameters so the weep hole I drilled was not a mistake. I just read the instructions.

I moved this thread to the PNW meet forum - in the major events catagory.

I forgot to mention to make sure the new nut is seated properly on the sprocket bolt head, if its not and you start torquing the bolts back in to the speed sensor, you will need a new one again! Also some new aftermarket sprockets that are not the same width could be an issue with the spacing of the nut and the bolt head, might not properly engage, an easy fix for that is just some washers.

Did you remove the front wheel? If so maybe you got the axle spacers in wrong? they go into the slot between the front wheel bearings and space the wheel away from the forks. if they are backwards, missing or switched it could be the cause of your brake caliper rubbing.

Loose, more likely for a rocker setup to get loose then a shim under bucket. The screws back out due to vibration, where the shim is not going anywhere not compressing and like you said wear out the valve seats.

Nice is it a smooth brake feel or is it grabby?

Good write up, I bought a stud remover tool, it was just a big cam that you put a wrench on and it would grab the stud and torque it out, but in the tight confines of the bike frame it was useless. I ended up having to drill it out with a carbide drill bit then put in an easy out till the damn thing came out. They get rusty cause they heat cycle so much, my stud snapped off flush, I HAD to drill it out after it broke the second time.

Some guys say use Copaslip high temp anti seize on the new studs? I just put them in dry and dont torque too much, they have low torque figures.

The heat grease might work but the fan will fail, they dont last long on a bike. Best thing to do is make sure you have good connectors, and they are clean! Its just a shitty design on the charging system!

thx for this HS, how do we burp the system? amount of coolant i need to buy to fill up the system?

Burping the system is simple, with the bike on the side stand, radiator cap off, turn on the engine for a moment, blip the throttle till air comes out, shut it off then top up the coolant. One of those big jugs of coolant is sufficient to fill a 5th gen or a 6th gen vfr.

Topic tags are added when starting the topic, an input box is just below the thread title box. You can also edit the topic tags by editing the top post with the full editor.

I rode HS 1200 at the Tmac for a little while and it is a beast!!! Love that engine, very addicting power.

BR

Mine has the zbomb, and a leo vince with no exhaust flapper.

Speedo correct, for use when running non standard sprockets. Since vfrs run the speedometer off the front sprocket. It digitally adjusts the speed sensor signal based on the switches on the pic, dont know what brand you have there?