VeeEffArah

I know the X14 & 15 and RF1200 & 1400 have removable chin strap covers. Also the HJC RHPA 11 and new 12 has. HJC RPHA 1N chin straps are NOT removeable, which is odd for their "top tier" racing helmet.

May be, but again, depending on who the "they" you were speaking of.

Curious as who is the "they" you speak of? Most all the helmet brands have the removable / washable chin strap covers.

To my knowledge, 5th fits 5th, 6th to 6th, etc. I have a set left over from my 2000. Will sent you a PM

Learning moment.... perhaps look at the part numbers, from the whatever brand you ordered, to see if they show fronts and rear are the same part number ? Or check with the old pads on the bike now, to see if they fit front to back?

THIS ^^^^^ After 5 decades riding motorcycles, I still love to ride but I'm to the point if it's cold enuff for heated vests, gloves, sox or seats, I'll be on the car with the heater on. But will say when I left the house this morning, temp was 45f and the heated grips on the FJR was rather comfy motoring down the 77 and 485.

The 2000 I bought earlier this year had sat for 2+ years and bought knowing the 50/50 chance of it being OK or some issue(s). not Once I did the services and necessary upgrades and got it running, that's when it's rattle issue revealed itself. While I would really like to figure it out and get it sorted, I'm just not at the point of liking it that much to take the time, energy and effort to drop the engine. Meaning behind all my blab is be ready to "live" with the traits and characteristics of the mighty VFR. These are truely special bikes with a following like no other motorbike.

Check that Green wire in blue connector?

Yup, on that 2000 I'm wanting to sell, seems I took it all off and capped the front and rear ports in about 40 minutes.

With that low of miles, it seems the motorbike has sat for some time. I would also investigate the fuel filter, but be advised it is inside of the tank. Simple checks such as the connectors to the ignition coils and also the main ground bolt is tight, right side of bike just under the rear cowl. Concerning the starter valve sync, I did my 2000 recently and noticed a huge difference in starting, idle and running, when adjusted "the new / corrected way". On my meter, #1 and #2 were steady at like 20, so I set #3 at 22 and #4 at 21. WORLD of difference versus the way the manual has it explained. Here is the link to that thread...

So are you wanting just the link pipe or an entire high mount slipon ?

Black Widow has a good setup for just the link pipe. https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/vfr800-98-03-rc46-high-level-exhaust-link-pipe-45534-p.asp

Does the HISS light come on then go off ? Maybe try the spare key? Does your bike have a Power Commander by chance?

Sounds to me like symptons of my friends 2005. Ended up being the dreaded green wire / blue connector problem. We jumped the green wire arounf the blue connector as first task and it started and ran as before.

Spider block - Yes, took off the cap / bridge and inspected the prongs and all the wires at the block base. All good, same as from March inspections. Charging voltage constant at 14 to 14.2v between 4-5000 rpm. The 5 LED display replacements are Amazon units. T10 / 194 5050 units that were like $9 for 6. All other bulbs in the gauges, turn and brake bulbs are OEM incandescents. Headlights are LED btw. Thanks for the insight and info. Will just keep adding miles to it.

2000 with 30k. Repalced the 5 main display bulbs with LED. Changed bulbs when I noticed some were burned out and display hard to see leaving at dawn in the mornings. Now when brake is applied or turn signal is on, the gauge panel has a noticable flicker. Can tell more on the digital display but all 3 panels do it. For brake, the flicker is just once when appled. T/S the flicker is with each blink. Battery is new. R/R is new FH020 with Roadster harness. Checked main RH ground and orange spider block. All good there. All other connecters were cleaned and gooped when I inspected them all over the spring. Bike runs great and no issues. Normal occurance and I didn't notice because the display bulbs were out? Or what else to check ?

About a half dozen posts below yours .... 😁

Obviously, that is their "yeah we don't wanna do it" price. They redid my front FJR1300 seat end of last year for like $185.

It's because of the extra forces and weight on the left side when you ride with your left hand on your hip.... taken from the "gixder forums".... 🤪

Any update on these kicks after the cross country trek?

Busy last few weeks, a bit at a time. Rear shock resprung with Hyperco spring. Linkage and related bearings lubed. Used rear fender / undertray fitted. ECU located to correct positon also. All 3 brake calipers cleaned, serviced and rebuilt. Front brake M/C cleaned and serviced. Today will be rear M/C clean and service and clutch M/C and slave cylinder.

I'll surely sell it and the hacked stock rear fender that goes with it.. 🫤

Saturday, the fuel pump parts finally arrived and got that installed and tank back on the bike. Removed the rear fender / undertail pieces that has the hidden compartment so I can replace with a used stocker. While that apart, removed the shock to swap the stock spring for the Hyperco spring I found at work. Not as bad of a job as I expected, but could be easier TBH. Rubber bump stop on the bottom s shot and crumbled away. Turning attention to the brake calipers, found the P/O ( or his shady shop ) had used red loctite on the caliper bolts and even the slide pins. Lotsa heat, 6 point socket and breaker bar to get the bolts loose. People !!! And what fluid that was in the lines and guessing in calipers, is red ? UGH.

Negative on the silver tank for Gen 5, just came as red for each year except the 2000 yellow for USA.