jeremy556

Buy the new battery to do the test. You are not going to fry the new battery in the time it takes to do the test. Just hook it up and turn it on and check the system voltage immediately. If it is under 16 volts, let it warm up and test it with high beams at 5500rpm. If it is over 16, check the R/R monitor wire, and go through the troubleshooting for the R/R and stator. If you are really worried about frying an expensive Yausa, any 12v battery will do, I think you can get generic 12v batteries at wall mart for $20-$30 that would work fine to test it out with.

you are replacing the thick red wire, the fuse holder, anf the red/white wire. clip off the connector on the wire harness side on the red/white wire. remove the fuse holder and thick red wire which goes to the battery+. connect your new wire to battery+ terminal and run it to your new fuse holder. from the new fuse holder solder splice to where you cut off the connector on the wire harness side just tuck the new fuse in where the old one was

Careful with that rear, front is much more effective

I had always heard that the XRs were bulletproof, the maintenance problems sound like you have an Italian bike.

So how did it get from red to black?

Do you like living in NYC? I have been there a few times on business and hate the place, I do everything I can to avoid having to go there for any reason.

I am now on my 3rd R/R on my 6th gen because of voltage of 16 or more. Seems, the voltage is in the 15.3-15.9 range for a couple of months and then it starts going up to 16 -16.5 causing ABS system to freak out and batteries to die, until a new R/R brings it back down to the 15s again. I have done all of the electrical system test including the stator and all have always checked out fine pointing to a bad R/R, but now that I have had 3 I think the problem lies elsewhere. My only guess is the stator so I am going to get a replacement. Is there any other possible causes that I am not thinking of?

What to do? OK, I have to replace my shock now. Rebuild/revalve/respring runs $400 and will leave me with no shock for over a week on my primary transportation. WP 4014 Fusion with remote res and preload is $850. Ohlins 46HRCS is similar, but not sure if it will fit vtec. Ohlins 46DRS is $650 and it fits VTEC. Which one should I get? Right now, I am slow, and ride in Florida. I should be moving to North GA in the next couple of months so will have good roads and should get better. I plan on doing some track days, but not racing. I know little about suspension other than that my shock sucks.

Here are my symptoms and solutions... Symptom: ABS light flashing when brights are turned on Solution: New R/R More Info: Read code from ABS ? charging system problem. Discovered 16+ volts when brights were on above 6K RPM. Normal voltage when brights were off. Symptom: Idle would drop to 600 for a few seconds and engine would stop. Solution: Replaced 30 amp fuse and wire at battery More Info: This would happen very randomly, only at idle. Not 100% sure the fuse is what fixed it, but it has not happened since it was replaced.

Good luck on the front sliders, but I doubt it is possible to have front sliders that would be strong enough to withstand a crash without cutting anything. You must also keep in mind balance points, and if a location would lever, for example the front end into the ground, etc, etc.

Did you highside or flip or something? My bike the lower part of the rear pegs toucheddown and a little on the rear fairing, didn't seem to come close to the exhaust. I am guessing you also got frame sliders for the front of the bike.

I compared all of the part numbers for all the wiring harnesses, battery, etc. between 2002 and 2005 models. The only changes were the part number for the battery was updated several times, no other wiring had changed according to the fiche at Ron Ayers. I am very glad that Baily brought this issue back to life as I had never noticed it before. After reading the initial posts in this and another thread on this topic I found my fuse was melted and the wires were very burned and brittle. I replaced that part with new 10g wire and some wire loom, and am working on cleaning and greasing all my electrical connections. I still have yet to do the ones under the front fairing but have the sides and rear done. I also just had to replace my R/R as it was putting out 16+ volts over 5500rpm with the brights on which may have contributed to the melted fuse. The bike is a 2002 with 32K miles, I bought it in September 05 with 14K miles.

i recently got the quest also, I like it so far. Make sure to go to Garmin's web site and order latest version of map software, you get one upgrade free. Also be sure and download the latest firmware, and if you want it, you need to download the latest voice software seperately and install it. I just got the version 2 voice and it is much less irritating than the one that came with mine.