jeremy556

That is one of the ground blocks. Others have had the same problem with them.

What kind of rotors are those?

kill it with fire IBTL

I think a couple members here have them, and at least 1 has tested them out and they did their job. They are incredibly expensive, and will be less effective than radar or r&g sliders.

I would go ahead and install, since it is plug and play with factory connectors it shouldn't be any issue.

I would say that Honda's recall is extremely unlikely to fix the monitor wire and the 30 amp fuse problem. They make no mention of these issues, and will only replace the main harness if it has damage from the ground issue at the blue connector. I was wrong. The recall does appear to fix the blue connector, r/r monitor wire, and 30 amp fuse problems.

Yep, that is it. I used some of those crimp on quick splices into the wire on each side of the connector and grounded it...

Easiest way to the monitor wire fix is to remove the wire from the connector on the R/R side with a small screw driver, then use an insulated female quick disconnect to connect to your fused wire from the battery.

Everyone that has seen them side by side says that much of the wiring has been changed/upgraded. I would still install a volt meter.

The volt meter will allow you to see low or high voltage before you get stranded or things fried, but it will do nothing to prevent or fix these problems. Excellent post and how-to talus :thumbsup:

You can measure the voltage at the batter terminals.

Ken pretty much summed it up. The R/R will see that your battery voltage is low and pump out higher voltage in order to charge it. As the faulty monitor wire gets worse it will give lower and lower voltages until the R/R is pumping out over 16 volts which will burn up wires, light bulbs, fuses, and your battery (probably not good for things like the PGM-FI either). If your R/R is putting out more than 15 volts at 5KRPM with the brights on, I would recommend doing this fix. I have so far not seen any 05+ model with this problem. I don’t know if that is because they fixed the wiring problem, or there are simply no bikes with enough miles to yet experience any symptoms. Mine took 20K miles before it had noticeable symptoms.

You need a wide angle lens :thumbsup:

I think their site is wrong. It is listed for a double swing arm, lists as fitting F4i also, and shows a wheel that uses bearings and has the sprocket mounted to it.

I just put 30amp fuses in them since thats what the factory harness has in it. The biggest change in voltage from what I've seen on my bike and others is when replacing that 'black' voltage monitor wire from the R/R. Theres a major major progressive resistance problem in that wire somewhere. Someday I want to take the front end off and track that wire down to see exactly whats the problem in the wire from the ignition to the R/R. Mine has a major issue with about 9.3 ohms of resistance from the monitor wire to ignition, which was upping voltage output to 16V +. Since replacing that wire, I can remove the fuses from positive side running to the regulator to the battery to test it and it only causes a 0.6v voltage drop. So basically by rerunning that black wire to my battery allowing correct voltage monitoring, solve a lot of overcharging issues in that alone. I seem to have somehow missed this thread for the last 2 months. Jason, regarding the monitor wire, the schematic in the service manual is BS, take a look at the wire harness than Ken was nice enough to cut apart for me to see where the monitor wire goes... Farking nowhere.

It probably won't hit. My res is mounted further forward than that attached to the sub frame and it doesn't seem to hit

After installing a new chain and sprockets today, I had developed a coolant leak which required me to take off my left side panel to track down a loose hose clamp. While I was in there I took a close look at the forward and rear engine mount bolts that the Radar/RG sliders use and that the Motovation sliders use. I had not noticed before, but the rear bolts are relatively small tabs coming off the frame and the bolt does not go all the way through, they just mount to more tabs coming off the engine case. The front bolt has a much larger tab from the frame and goes all the way through the engine. This sort of shows the difference in size of the rear mounting tab versus the front (this is also the hose clamp that was leaking) Where the rear engine mount bolts to a mounting tab on the engine case Forward engine mount bolt goes through the frame, all the way through the engine, and out the frame on the other side

awesome stuff!!! but why go to all that trouble to have an engine WHINE at you ? :warranty: To avoid having to replace cam chain tensioners?

Looks good, but damn that was pricey. You should have hired a couple tweekers to polish up the wheels, probably could have saved $400 on that part :thumbsup:

Just need to paint the frame, swingarm, fork legs, and get a dark smoke windscreen...

I predict a sharp near term increase in the price of 98-99 headers. :thumbsup: