jeremy556

I would think, not much. HPS brand were of a similar style - no cut needed, but had a bracket that was at least supported on two sides.

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame. A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled. I sit corrected. Damn, is that an R&G???? It was

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame. A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled.

Hole saw works just fine

The bike isn't throwing away electricity. The load on the engine from the stator is the resistance of the system attached to it. As you draw more amps, the stator will be harder to turn, using more fuel. No, the stator generates full output (for the rpms it is turning) at all times. You can't increase the load on it, you can only siphon off the power it generates (which is why we have a regulator to soak up the power that the bikes systems don't burn up). Anytime you hear words like "Can I just say" or "That's a very good question" or "let me tell you"... you're listening to either a politician or a spin doctor. You're right, permanent magnet generator, not field controlled generator on bikes.

The bike isn't throwing away electricity. The load on the engine from the stator is the resistance of the system attached to it. As you draw more amps, the stator will be harder to turn, using more fuel. Actually, it is, as the VFR, and most bikes used a fixed magnet generator, which is different than the type used on cars.

So you are going to make HHO from electrolysis, the electricity supplied by the burning HHO? Ya know, there are laws against this sort of thing

What are you trying to accomplish? Better mileage? More power? I never did read a clear explanation of goals. Explain to me again how adding a stoichiometric mixture of one fuel is going to reduce the unburned portion of the primary fuel. I am not seeing the change in the amount of free oxygen available to burn off the original excess primary fuel. Electrolizing water = 2H2O --> 2H2 + O2 (with the input of electrical energy from your motorcycle) Combusting those gasses = 2H2 + O2 --> 2H2O (with the creation of heat energy, some of which is lost to the atmosphere) You're converting water into gasses then converting them back into water, correct? But you've used electrical energy from your motorcycle to do it. Unfortunately you don't recieve all that power back, thanks to the SECOND LAW OF THERMODYNAMICS. Plus, you are taking up the finite space in the cylinder that could be filled with gasoline and air and substituting in a fuel that has a lower specific energy. It has been a long time since I have sat through a Chem lecture, so please feel free to point out any error in my understanding. Add in the pump that you are also running and what I'm seeing is a motorcycle that is less efficient than it was before. A motorcycle that has less power than it did before. And a motorcycle that is mechanically more complicated and argueably less safe than it was before. This about sums it up. Google "Brown's Gas" for a thorough debunking.

Disconnect the PAIR system to get rid of the popping. The back fire has always been there, you can just now hear the combustion that takes place in the headers as the PAIR valves open and allow oxygen to mix with unburned fuel and hot headers.

Kanadian Ken

I haven't checked the rule book, but I would say no. Don't see too many bikes without solid rear sets, and those are running stock parts.

Not the best pics, taken in the trailer while loading it up. Broken footpeg hanger, trashed center stand and shifter Upper and side fairing, bar end and lever of course. The crackling in the fuel tank paint is my crappy rattle can clear coat that didn't last very long after fixing damage from a previous crash. The fairing did not touch the tank, radiator, or frame in this case. What was left of the frame slider, and one of the reasons I would prefer Radar's. It is difficult to remove the slider when the nut and the engine mount bolt have become one. The bike took a very long slide, it never left the track, just slid on its side straight down the back straight at Jennings.

When you tip over, the fairing stay will bend, and the fairing will crush the fuel tank, radiator, and the frame itself. My bike was totaled for this exact reason, when the fairing scratched the frame.