Darth Bling

As far as I can recall, it was pretty easy actually. I was able to get a 10mm wrench on it and from behind the heel plate thingy without any trouble. You just don't have too much room too work; you know, moving the wrench 1/6 of a turn at a time.

Kickstand Clearance.JPG There really isn't any clearance issues that you need to worry about, unless you're using a kickstand that's shorter than stock.

Here are the boxes my Buell pegs came in: Part Numbers.JPG As you can see, the part numbers are N0520.1AD and N0521.1AD. I'm thinking the dealership you went to gave you the wrong parts, or there was a mix up somewhere and the wrong pegs got put into the wrong box. Here's where I found the part numbers for the XB9 footpegs: http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=26913

After doing some research, I decided to add some Buell footpegs to my 2002 VFR. After installing the pegs, my first impressions were very good. I can definitely feel a difference in my knees and the bike's overall feel seems less aggressive. I'm very happy with my choice. The Buell pegs are about an inch lower than stock. If you've been thinking about adding Buell footpegs but you can't decide to take the plunge, hopefully this little write-up will help you out. I know I was hesitant to buy the pegs because I wasn't sure what needed to be done to make the Buell footpegs fit. And to make things more difficult, nobody's posted any pictures yet of how to install the footpegs. Well, let's see if we can do something about that. :D I believe the footpegs I used are for the Buell XB9S. The part numbers are N0520.1AD and N0521.1AD. The total cost was about $34 or so. Now, the pegs are not a? perfect fit. As you can see in the first picture, they are shaped differently. Also, you'll notice that the pegs are too tall. The solution: grind the excess away! You can use a Dremel, but would take quite a bit of time (3 grinding bits and 3 hours to be exact). You could probably also use a regular file to shave down the pegs too (might be even faster than the Dremal actually. Of course, if you have a real grinder, this should only take a few minutes. Now, the stock bolts and mounting holes are 8mm. The Buell footpegs holes are 7/16 (You can see the difference in the first picture). So, you'll need to find some bushings/sleeves to fill in the gap. You have a few different options here. The easiest way would probably be to find a bushing with a 8mm inside diameter and, using power drill increase the diameter of the Buell footget to fit the bushing. Here are some before and after pictures: Right Peg Before.JPG Right Peg After.JPEG Left Peg Before.JPG Left Peg After.JPG Left Peg 2 Before.JPG Left Peg 2 After.JPG The Buell footpegs sit about an inch lower. As you can see in the next picture, the feelers on the Buell footpeg and VFR footpeg extended down to roughly the same height. Since I don't grind my pegs when I ride (I usually lean off the bike when I go around corners), I shouldn't have any ground clearance problems at all. All that's left to do now is adjust the shifter and brake lever and we're ready to ride. The shifter is super easy to adjust. The brake lever is another matter. Since I'm not exactly sure how to adjust the brake lever and it looks like it could be messy, I left the brake lever alone (for now). Otherwise, this mod was pretty simple and straightfoward. Just be patient when grinding down the pegs, and everything should be fine. It took me about 6 hours total to install the new footpegs (using a Dremal), so it's quite possible it'll take you less time.? :P As others noted in the original thread, a grinder or file is the best way to go. I used a Dremal and it took me hours to grind away enough metal. Others used a grinder or file and managed to grind down the pegs in only a few minutes.

Nope, no need to pull them out. The clicking is normal. :thumbsup:

I find it unlikely that both your speedometer and odometer are exactly off by 10%. The speedometer on the bike usually has a built in error (between 5%-10%) and the odometer is suppose to be dead-on accurate. More Info.

Me neither. I was just thinking out loud.

You know what, I just thinking about something. It would be kinda cool to set up the shift light to come on at the VTEC engagement point. That way, you don't have to worry about the VTEC transition sneaking up on you. Even better, if you had two shift lights, one at 5800 and another at 6200, you'll always know when VTEC is about to kick in.

Awesome job David. Your manometer looks great! :thumbsup: I'm glad everything went well. It really is amazing how much better the bike runs after synching the starter valves. I was having trouble starting my bike, but after the valve synch it starts great now.

Went down to the local hardware store (Truevalue). They have almost everything there.

Definitely a good idea! But, I found with motor oil and 7 foot long tubes, I have still have a very comfortable safety margin. The highest the oil ever made it up in any of the tubes in my manometer was about 2 feet, but I was screwing around with starter valves screws. I was thinking about adding some valves to each tube. That way I could balance the cylinders one at a time. (The first manometer I made had some serious design flaws. Actually, I should be taken out a back and beaten with a garden hose for thinking it would work.)

Yeah, that's what I meant. I was going to use the word "fluid", but settled on "light" for some reason.^_^

From what I remember reading on that forum, everyone thought it was a translation problem with the English service manual. But after getting someone in Japan to translate a Japanese VFR service manual for them, they found the manual was right and all the values should be set equal to the fourth cylinder. In any case, balancing the starter values with either of the two methods would probably be a vast improvement since most dealerships didn't synch them at all. The first manometer I made was a disaster. I found water to too light (almost sucked water into my engine :o ). Motor oil seems to work very well.