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That piece looks like a sheared off drive dog. From the main or countershaft gears in your transmission. I’m used to seeing surface wear on these and issues with shifting into certain gears and getting good engagement. Having a broken off piece is something else. Do let us know…

Hi everyone, My brother sourced this 1994-1997 VFR750 Supertrapp muffler for me. I have a 98’ 800 and never adapted the midpipe to fit. The 750 muffler has a round flare that mates to the 750 midpipe with a clamp. I ended up going with a Remus high mount solution on my bike and never used this one. The mounting bolts are present and will fit a 1994-1997 VFR 750 as is. It does clean up with polish. There is a small dent/crease on the outside towards the back. Hoping someone could use it! I have the same supertrapp muffler on the XR600R. Supertrapp’s have closed plates on the back and exhaust gasses exit through the vanes on the sides… they are adjustable here too. It’s a good can! Also, there is a Yoshimura RS3 muffler in the mix. This one has a 3 bolt flange to connect to a mid pipe. These were standard on the earlier GSXR’s - I believe this was intended for the 750 or 1000 model. Although it’s period-correct, I went with the Remus on mine and never mounted this one. You would need a mid pipe made with 3 bolt flange to mount this to a VFR. Size comparisons to a stock 1998 Muffler. Also looking to part with this if someone can use it. I’d take $100 for the muffler you want or make an offer… I am in Southern California 91304. Thanks!

If other replies come in I’m certainly curious to the answer. From what I understand, the stators in our VFR’s all have single windings. That’s the 3 yellow wires that put out high voltage AC. The rectifier portion of the R/R takes this AC and converts to DC, and the regulator keeps the voltage where it should be (around 12-14 volts) to prevent overcharging… I have a Honda dirt bike with a dual wound stator. The windings are on each half of the stator. There are two separate AC leads that could connect to separate R/R’s come out of that stator. However, running two R/R’s, the wattage wouldn’t increase. Each stator would only have half the power available - the number of windings on the stator determine this. Benefits are: if one side of the stator’s windings go bad while riding, one could switch to the other set of AC wires and continue riding without lights, as that bike has separate circuits with ignition separated from it’s headlight. I am running two R/R’s in this case, but they are small, it’s a dirt bike. It could get you home if you were stuck. Not as useful on a VFR. Plan for a tow if/when your charging system fails, and resolve it for good. To make the VFR’s charging system work well: Having a good stator with no shorts or opens and good uniform AC voltage across the 3 leads. A direct link with those yellow wires - no connectors, or a robust one if necessary. Corroded anything here won’t work - resistance means heat and that means parts failure. Get a good modern R/R. (Shindengen 847). Direct link from R/R to battery, fused, circumventing the wire harness. You’ll have a VFR that works well. Still curious if the single AC leads were to be connected to two R/R’s, and what would happen there. It certainly isn’t optimal but is a good question.

Fitting the front primaries. Fitting the midpipe. This lines up well after the welding work. Stock exhaust clamp now in use. A big plus: The midpipe can now be removed without first removing the rear wheel. Taking a look at how it all comes together. This is really nice. I've ordered three M18x1.5 o2 plugs. Everything else goes back together as normal. Note: Even if the rear primaries are slip fitted together and the header is in one piece. If you need to install or remove the centerstand it can be done by removing the header bolts at the engine. There is then enough flex to access the top right bolt for the centerstand. A parts diagram shows the assembly order of the spacers, flat and spring washers.

Removing the stock system is pretty straightforward. Remove tail plastic, remove rear wheel, remove Remus can and link pipe. Remove front fairings, loosen right foot stay, remove heat shield. Header bolts all loose, rear primaries disconnected, and the stock system shifts out just fine. Once the bike is back on the sidestand the centerstand can be removed. The bike certainly looks good with all of this stuff out of the way. I also cleaned up surfaces while the access was there. With everything ready, the first step was fitting the Delkevic copper gaskets. They're just a little big - but this is a good thing once all is assembled. You can see that the ring wouldn't just fit but needed a little manipulation to sit centered. My initial reaction was - oh no! Spend the time to make the entire gasket centered in the exhaust port. I noticed on the front ports there is some chipping of the external casting. Once fitted they stay in on their own and don't fall out unless disturbed. Looking at the rear ports, here are the gaskets fitted. I was told that the left rear primary slip joint was a tight fit. This is true - I had test fitted these before they went on the bike. The right slips on easily enough, while the left was quite tight. Wiggling and slightly twisting, it does slip on all the way though. Same thing removing the slip fitting. I put a marker dot on the slip fittings as an index, so I could tell when it was fitted all the way when on the bike. With the rear primaries loosely fitted and the same in the front. Here is the view before joining the slip fittings. A bit of strength to align these while lifting the header up, both began their slip fit. A moment of manipulating by hand and they fit as much as they would go. Out comes the ratchet strap with a piece of cloth to protect the surfaces. I squeezed the left joint first and then the right. Once the strap was pulling, light taps on the slip joint pulled them right into place. This was surprisingly easy considering how tight this appeared while test fitting. After these joints were fitted, the remaining 4 points attaching to the bike all lined up where they should. Very nice!

All right, it's that time! I recently acquired my set from the latest run. The very good news is everything is working as it should! I've just finished with the install and I have some photos to share. 😁 Here is my pair. Right now the rear primaries are just balanced in the slip fittings. I have a Remus high mount can - the link pipe is balanced where it should be. The Remus link pipe does not utilize the stock exhaust gasket. It has a built-in clamp. This is actually a very tight fit on the stock exhaust outlet. The diameter of these pipes are about the same. The muffler end of the remus link pipe would slip on as it should here. I knew this part would need to be addressed before the install. The first welding shop I went by was a fabrication specialist, I showed them what I was working with. They didn't have expanders or tubing material there and I was referred to another local shop. The second shop has cars parked inside and custom turbo header projects everywhere. This was the right place. The first attempt was to just expand it as is - the metal promptly cracked and tore open. He confirmed I do have a clamp that would work. A moment later, the end is cut off and there is a new piece of pipe that slip fits being welded on. These now fit properly and everything is clean inside and out. This aspect of the project could have gone many ways. I am very glad it worked as well as it did. It's a pretty weld and is the most visible one so good there too. Here is the starting point. The bike is a 1999 model. It hasn't been down before - the scrape on the stock header is from lean angle.

Post questions here. There also is a PM that goes out with info on deposit and payment info.

I sent an inquiry and heard back. The good news is the group buy is still going through and we are close to our 15. Also, the 42mm gaskets are back in stock. $32 shipped for the order. I'm picking up in preparation. https://delkevic.com/copper-gasket-42-mm/

This group buy is still in progress… I am one of those who has a deposit down. Any ideas going forward? I’d really like to make this still happen.

Speaking up, for a 99 model. A high mount link pipe is all thats left to find... Edit: found a Remus Grand Prix high mount that fits. 🙂