Jump to content

Presson

Members
  • Posts

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Presson

  1. Hey matey, so glad you got to try one. I was riding a GSXR 750 then at age 59 I suddenly found 2 hours in the saddle was too much for the wrists, hips and neck. My choice to go back to a Honda V4 was based on a memory from the 1980s and it sure felt strange initially; I fully understand that sitting in it feeling and inability to load the front tyre. I've got used to it now and am really enjoying my VFR. But hey you've got years of flexibility and strength ahead! Hope you find a mount that works for you.
  2. Not necessarily as there could be differences between no start situations between the different models. Here is the link to the service manual in the downloads section of this site. I strongly recommend putting the original ECU back in and then following the FI code process described by raYzerman and in the manual .
  3. Welcome Afeef! Can you post a photo of the ECU unit you swapped over. Also as Grum asks - With the Sidestand down, Ignition to On, what is the Fi code being flashed by the Fi light. It's the number of flashes in the sequence
  4. Is that a NS400R I can see in the background of the picture of your RC30?
  5. Welcome to the forum mrLoudy. That is a beautiful machine. Lucky you!
  6. Hey Johnnie, a final thought. Hopefully the bike you are considering is the Deluxe version as it has preload and rebound adjustment at both ends with a remote preload adjuster on the rear. The standard version only has preload adjustment; on the rear that is via use of C spanners. The Deluxe also has heated grips. Cheers
  7. Welcome to the forum Roguewilly. Tell us you drained out the 10.5 litres of oil and refilled correctly before you fired her up! Difficult to imagine why anyone would put so much oil in unless they thought it would act as a preservative..... What year VFR is it? Any photos?
  8. PS. The Kawasaki 1000SX, Suzuki GSX1000GT and VFR800F all lie in the 225-228kg weight range. Google it. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/110277-2014-vfr-800-cycle-world-test/ A read of this thread might help
  9. Welcome to VFRD Johnnie. The question you're asking is almost impossible to answer as it comes down to personal preferences and expectations. I think everyone on here is by definition a fan of the VFR line. I'll try to offer my perspective and I'm sure others will chip in. The VFR is a fantastically well designed and built machine and the 8 Gen you are thinking about includes a number of improvements on niggles from earlier versions. It handles very well in a neutral way and can easily walk tall among sportbikes on the road in the right hands. The VTEC transition is almost negligible now and in my mind gives you 2 engine characters in one machine; a softer response below 6500 for cruising about (and circa 60mpg), or a bit of a hooligan from 7000 up if you're going for it and plenty fast enough for the real world if you value your licence. Bags or torque and sublimely smooth. It is quite heavy compared to a GSXR or R1 but the weight disappears when moving. It's also a taller riding position than a superbike or supersport. This makes initiating turning a little bit more effort but it's also more stable - particularly noticeable when it's windy. The higher seat height also means you probably won't and don't need your knee on the floor with one cheek off the seat unless you're really pushing. So it really depends on your personal preference. If you want race style flickability and raging superbike acceleration in a light package that has you lying on the tank testing your knee and wrist joints on every ride, the VFR ain't it. On the other hand if you want a well mannered road bike that will get you where you want to go in comfort and then offer good scratching potential and fun on your favourite curves, the VFR fits the bill. If you can, try to ride before you buy.
  10. Or is that calcified deposits from washing with hard water? Perhaps that could cause sticktion
  11. Look at the photos you posted on Tuesday. Evidence of corrosion between the brass part and the steel actuator that might cause sticking
  12. Galvanic corrosion between the brass part and the steel actuator arm. If possible examine operation of the wax unit actuator arm by sight. When the engine is warm and the idle has risen, can you move the SV actuator arm using a screwdriver or pliers to apply pressure to overcome any corrosion induced 'sticktion'? If the wax unit has failed there should surely be some evidence of leakage via one of the o rings...? The rationale in the manual for not touching the wax unit locknut is to avoid fiddling with a number of settings and upsetting the relationship Terry describes above. If you only touch one setting you should be able to get back to where you are now
  13. Like Mohawk, I'd strongly recommend cleaning up the brass slider and the plates either side. IIRC You did say it was working correctly before winter. Most likely that corrosion is causing the actuator to stick and as the engine warms expansion of the rod increases the idle further. Perhaps measure from the end of the rod to the nut before disassembly to give you a starting point when you put it back together.
  14. I think you will be alright. I used to run a 110/90 on the front and 130/80 on the rear of my VF500 for 6 years (not the same set !). At the time I thought it better for grip.
  15. Surely it has to be the lower linkage, all other parts being equal. The only other possibility would be a rear subframe that has been damaged and repaired at a slightly different angle - enough to give different measurements to the axle. But you said getting the 330 length into position was a bi*@h which brings us back to the dogbone and link plates.....?
  16. Lovely machine. I used to yearn for one on my longer trips up North in the late 80s until I got to the A1 roundabouts and the VF500F2 just flicked through. Anyhow, that really is a sparklingly clean specimen for UK conditions - fantastic find.
  17. Thanks Bmart. It's an 8Gen but there is no problem with bike. It's more about personal preference. I'm grateful to everyone piling in with advice about geometry and suspension. I think this thread has run its course for my needs.
  18. Thanks Sebspeed, all understood and no offence taken. The head bearings were checked when the forks were serviced and found to be in good shape. I also had the suspension professionally set up last Summer ( well checked actually as I'd already got it almost bang on). I'm going to experiment with a little more pressure in the front tyre as raYzerman suggested to see what difference that makes. Depending on that, I'll then consider dropping the triples slightly and see what difference that makes. As I said earlier I'm only looking for a marginal change. Cheers!
  19. Thanks Sebspeed; a comprehensive list of questions but I'm not chasing a problem, just wondering about slightly increasing sensitivity to input. Since you ask tyres a Michelin Road 6 with only 2k miles on and pressure as standard (36/42), forks serviced 500 miles back, head bearings are stock as the bike has only 12k miles on it and same for the shock. Been riding for 40 years. If there's a problem it's the state of roads in UK with potholes and loose gravel appearing right on line when pressing on through corners.
  20. You must be almost on your nose! 😁 Thanks for the reassurance though. I'll work the triples down slowly.
  21. Yep, got and understood your real purpose; the cam you were using gives really good resolution at relatively low light levels. Nevertheless, I bet seeing her there was a bit of an 'oh shit' moment though...
  22. Just contemplating lowering the triple clamps by 3mm to make the effect of the steering input quicker. Any views? I like the stability of the bike but would like a bit extra responsiveness to adjust the line mid corner to avoid potholes and gravel. I jacked up the back of the GSXR by 5mm and got a massive improvement for 'flickability' without comprising straight line stability, but doing the same on the VFR is a bit more involved due to shock mount location. Alternatively I suppose I could go and do strength training...
  23. It's a woman holding a child.??? Strange place to try and cross.
  24. Others will have to advise on that. However if it was working before it was parked for winter wouldn't a stuck bit that just needs easing be the most likely fault? I suppose the other scenario could be failure of an o-ring and leakage of the wax and there might be telltales if that were the case. Bloody irritating and quite expensive for a new unit I see. Fingers crossed it's an easy fix; even if it does mean taking off stuff on top of the engine.
  25. I confess I've no actual experience of the wax unit, but could a stuck wax unit piston cause the problem you describe by keeping the SVs wide open? From reading around it sounds as though the wax units normally last over 100k miles.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.