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raYzerman

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Everything posted by raYzerman

  1. OK lesson learned..... checked other sources for the specific bike application.... spring rates are generally higher for VFR's, depending on your weight... 1000-1300 lbs/in. Carry on.... 🤐 😁
  2. ducnut, a 1300 lb. spring? You sure? Must ride like a rock..... a 200 lb. guy only needs an 850, or 900 at the most....... sometimes there's a number stamped on the spring, and it can be decoded, spring rate is usually the last few digits........
  3. Got one on my 5th Gen as well with a Givi windshield. Cheap and easy to try.
  4. Those rear shock spring rates recommended by Penske and RaceTech are plain crazy, way too harsh. For a 200 lb rider, shouldn't be more than 900. RaceTech gave me a shock for my FJR, a heavier bike, with an 1100 lb. spring, rode like a truck..... had it resprung to 850 and it was perfect. Their fork spring rates are good at .9-1.0, yes, straight rates only up front.....
  5. If you want more adjustability, try Convertibars.... I was lucky enough to find a used set... pretty rare they come up for sale. https://www.convertibars.com/Default.asp
  6. Beautious! Now you have the fastest colour...... does that plate read UGLYRED? LOL.
  7. Another series R/R is the SH775 (Polaris #4012941), and it would work well too. I would get the RoadsterCycle harness, as it is robust and good quality wire, circuit breaker and connectors..... you can't really build that much cheaper or as good yourself. Installing the Roadster harness totally eliminates stock wiring from the equation. Yet another SH series regulator is from a Versys 1000 2015-up. The Yamaha (FJR, FJ-09, etc.) used a mofset FH-020-AA.... they didn't have history of failing. What you may find is that used R/R's are half or more of what you can buy a new one at Roadster for........
  8. I think he means R/R and the appropriate harness with the right connectors for it...... forget the VFRness altogether, unneeded then.
  9. I'd keep the '98...... I'm not seeing why you'd want a '00-01 over that either.... why bother at all? I didn't see if the 2000 was yellow..... if that's the reason, move all the plastic and tank, keep the '98, sell the 2000.
  10. Plexus is a little too waxy for my taste, used quite a few things, but one can keep it simple with good old Honda Polish, leaves no residue even on black plastics, windshields,etc. Apply with a microfiber towel, then light buff with a clean microfiber towel. If you have a scuff or light scratch somewhere, use Novus #2 and some elbow grease, Novus #1 will also clean/shine up windshields, visors, etc.
  11. Be aware SS and TI don't play well with aluminum.... I'd recommend a little coating of anti-seize on the threads.
  12. raYzerman

    IMG_0054.JPG

    The Lolo Pass is fun. This one from 2016.
  13. Hi raYzerman, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  14. What mello dude says...... FYI, Yamaha uses the FH020AA on several models including FJR, FJ-07, FJ-09, etc. and they don't have problems.... I picked up a used one (not fearing they were faulty) and installed on my Gen5. You will need the proper connectors.... Eastern Beaver in Japan, I know stuff is flowing in from there. Not sure if Roadster Cycle will ship here, you'd have to ask him.... use USPS to avoid courier brokerage fees, but it might take a coupla weeks. If you're stuck, a small bribe and I can bring my spare set and R/R, you can replace it another day. All you will need is some good wire to hook it all up. My yellow stator wires appear to be 16ga (Honda what were you thinking?), Roadster Cycle's harness is 12ga. Can't see why 14ga. to the stator wires to R/R wouldn't work... maybe go 12ga from R/R to battery. I believe FJR has 14 ga. stator to R/R for reference. Another note, RM Stator stuff is Chinese, for whatever that's worth.
  15. It's the old story, if you want longevity, you want harder compounds and perhaps dual compounds. If you want grip and handling/confidence in the hard twisties, you want something softer. Your mileage is dependent on your riding style, right wrist, how hot you go into corners, etc. Use only others experience with similar style..... no way I'll ever get Grum's mileage out of tires. PR2's and RS3 are harder, just be more careful when it's cooler out (40-50's, spring/fall) and if wet. Good in the hot and dry. I prefer a little softer, so PR4/5, T31, Angel GT, Z6. I use Z6 fronts a lot, dual compound, will notice a band of the harder compound in the middle if you do lots of twisties. Currently running a Shinko Raven set on one of my bikes and they are darn good if I do say so, and cheap (don't let that fool you). Currently on the Gen5, have Angel GT rear (190/55) and Raven front.... probably next time would stick to 180/55 rear, but quite good. Dislike tread patterns that are prone to cupping/scalloping, PR4 fronts just begging for that. PR3's even softer, worse and I avoid both. Basically saying, not necessarily are sets good front/rear, but they can be. Most without their own tire changing equipment will think a little differently, I like being able to change tires out at will.
  16. I have cut many a filter apart to see quality of design/construction... also lots of internet cutaways. My unscientific small list I would avoid... K&N for reasons stated, Fram ExtraGard (OK but UltraGard or their other higher lines are good), Supertech (Walmart brand, used to be excellent, made by Champion, but latest are cheap crap), Purolator Pure One. The Pure One is too good, filter media is 20 microns which reduces flow by ~2+ gpm. Purolator also does not recommend them for bikes... you want flow in a high performance engine. Mostly when cold, if flow is restricted, the relief valve can go into bypass, meaning partial unfiltered. Most filters are 30-ish microns, Purolator Classic is too. Bosch owns Purolator, so essentially the same, made in the same factory. There are stainless washable re-usables that claim highest flow, but they filter at 36 microns. Good for a race engine with clean oil IMHO, but no need for us street guys, your choice, you can work out the economics and inconvenience of washing. Cost of OEM's is way high here, US guys seem to be able to buy multiples for decent money, comparable to other brands. Mobil1 an excellent filter. Your oil is changed frequently enough it really doesn't get that dirty. Most bike manufacturers say new filter every other oil change. Stress less, ride more, the aftermarket filters are mostly fine except for my list above. All my opinion of course, you have to do what lets you sleep at night, but you should. Just a wee story about an OEM Yamaha filter... many defend the OEM, no problem with me, except that one. It was a blob of compressed I dunno what, did the job, but once you saw that, you'd more than likely be turned off. The newer ones are just fine (all made by Denso), have traditional paper/synthetic media. Doesn't matter who makes the OEMs, it matters what specification they were given.
  17. You are correct on the situation Grum. If you take say a Mobi1 or OEM and compare it to the latest Purolator or Bosch by looking at the end cap, you'll see the Purolator and Bosch are much shallower. On the FJR, it does have a hex on the threaded adapter, the issue was solved by machining ~.060" off the face of the hex to allow the filter to screw on a bit further.... note, most cars likely don't need as much depth? Dunno. In any case, Vulgar didn't say what filter he had the leak with..... but again, I'll check the depth on my engine when I change my filter.
  18. More of a Yamaha situation where the adapter has a hex (so you can install/remove). From the VFR parts diagram, looks like no hex, it's just a double threaded pipe (as is Suzuki). The issue of not sealing was there was not enough depth for the latest "outie" Purolators and Bosch, thus it would not allow complete compression of the filter's gasket. Merely saying the explanation for a leaking filter on a VFR may be a similar situation of relative depth, I will check further when I get to my next oil change.
  19. New to VFR's but will relate to Purolators or Bosch leaking on my FJR..... not an issue on an ST1300 BTW. A couple of years ago there was a redesign by Purolator (who make the Bosch, owned by Bosch), the end cap was made into an outie vs. the old innie. There isn't enough depth to allow the filter to seal on some bikes, depending on their filter adapter, very simply, you can't screw it on far enough to compress the seal enough. So, I'm not sure what the filter adapter on a VFR is depth-wise into the block... the fix of course is to use somebody else's filters. On the FJR, removed the filter adapter, shaved some material off the face of the hex..... by the parts diagrams, doesn't look like the Honda one has a hex... hmmm. PS - I have cut apart a few filters, will say that Calsci data is old and incorrect. I would not recommend today's Supertech's from Walmart, manufacturer has changed, they are crap now. Champion is gone.
  20. Has anyone explored the straight rate spring options from RaceTech or some of the other North American suppliers like Sonic and Traxxion? A spring upgrade is likely on my list.......
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