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DannoXYZ

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Posts posted by DannoXYZ

  1. 19 hours ago, vfrgiving said:

    You're talking more about the fact it's squaring off?  I haven't noticed any significant difference over past tires I've ran.  They all get flat in the middle.   I don't get to commute to work on US 129.  As the flat becomes more pronounced with wear I can eventually tell tip in isn't as smooth as a fresh tire, but that doesn't keep me from taking it down to the wear bars.  Or maybe a little farther... 😁

     

    As for that little curled lip on the trailing edge of the siping, I think that has to due with the nature of the tread pattern and forces from acceleration.  Those side treads are more perpendicular and are taking forces broadside on the trailing edge.  I've burned through numerous sets of Bridgestones that had a very similar tread pattern and I'm on the last one on the 2nd VFR.  That also exhibits the trailing edge curl.

     

    IMG_20230522_201049_(1080_x_486_pixel).thumb.jpg.0682bad26b957c0f0dcf31cfe798ff38.jpg

    Feathering on edge of sipes more visible in previous photo:

    IMG_20230522_112703_(1080_x_1529_pixel).jpg

     

    I had that issue on mine too. Day 2 @ AMP on Q3+

    uc?export=download&id=1KfJxEH8cjBUxBDuDC

     

    Consulted with Dave Moss and he suggested I go 2/1psi less to 31F/28R. And increase rear rebound-damping. I added 1/4-turn per session and ended up 1 full turn more @ 2.75 turns compared to original 1.75. Much more even wear by 3rd day. Not much left, but definitely better. Also improved my times by 1.2s/lap, which is HUGE!

    uc?export=download&id=1Z-MtT3CC113a4VGTY

     

    Got set of KM1 in, looking forward to tyres that lasts more than 3-days!!! Especially at Attesa Podium Club track, which is much higher speeds. 🙂

    • Thanks 1
  2. 1 hour ago, VeeEffArah said:

    It's because of the extra forces and weight on the left side when you ride with your left hand on your hip.... taken from the "gixder forums".... 🤪

    I find it difficult to ride with right hand on hip to balance that out!

    Mine actually wears out left or right faster depending upon CW or CCW direction track is run. Some tracks only go in one direction, like Laguna Seca, so I wear out left side quicker.

  3. 10 hours ago, Captain 80s said:

     

    Every time a customer or friend has said, "I must have got a bad seal", my eyes can't  roll back in my head far enough. 

     

    "Did you inspect the tube for rock dings or nicks and stone them out?"

     

    Cue the dumbest, blankest look you can imagine right now.

    I don't like Honda's procedure of pounding in new bearings with hammer either! There's been many reports of bearings being loose in wheels after several replacements. I always use long bolt/all-thread or hydraulic press to gently push bearings in. With no angled cocking like you get when pounding in by hand.

  4. 1 hour ago, vfrgiving said:

    The Honda sticker pressures 36 - 42.  These are even cheaper now, Motosport has the 120/70, 180/55 complete set for $136 😲

    Ugh, that's corporate CYA pressure for max GVWR at continuous top-speed of bike! You're sacrificing tonne of grip and safety at those pressures.  Try 33/36 psi for much, much better braking and handling.

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  5. On 4/27/2023 at 2:39 AM, gropula said:

    Regarding the gaskets that go between the primaries and the cylinder head - delkevic is out of stock again. I tried finding an alternative. These will fit with some grinding EBAY LINK. They measured around 42.2mm OD so I used an angle grinder to narrow them down. It's possible to do so because they're not hollow like some other gaskets, they have material all the way through. They seal nicely and don't inhibit exhaust flow on my motad(ish) headers.

    What OD did you trim them down to in order to fit?

     

    I've used these on my RC24 & RC26 and they fit perfectly.

    Expands to about 41mm when crushed.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256805023890622.html

     

    Looks like 800 also uses 40mm gasket

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/195539730170

     

  6. Ok, you can get generic conveter cable and attach proper Honda DLC connector:

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Serial-Adapter-Signal-Prolific-Windows/dp/B07R8BQYW1/

     

    https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=341&category_id=54

     

    Pin-outs

    -Black/white > +12V
    -Orange/White > K-line
    -Brown > SCS can jumper to flash error codes
    -Green > ground

     

    The ECU does not speak OBD2 language, but much, much older analogue serial K-line protocol. Similar to modem AT commands for those familiar with dial-up modems. Downloading flash image .BIN file takes 15-minutes @110 baud !!! 😛

    14FAB3FA-FA68-4CBB-8344-FCDC3F75D518.jpeg

  7. Here's example of brand-new crimped connectors that burned up as well.

    uc?export=download&id=1TfhiZ7Cs0DmFDF20G

     

    Other than being new, it is not an improvement over Honda's selection of bare-brass uncoated connectors.

    uc?export=download&id=1UVtIxtxoY5yHMNZjT
    Highest-capacity 1/4" spade terminals I could find is rated for 24a. Honda uses that in many 30a circuits (starter-solenoid). Due to lack of contact surface-area, it heats up and burns well before hitting max-rating when tiniest amount of corrosion develops.  Soldering lowers temps significantly at wire to terminal joint and keeps out corrosion, but you still have limited contact surface-area between male-female connection.

     

    Ultimate solution is this:

    uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_z
    I did this on my RC24 10-yrs in. It's held up fine for past 27-yrs without any signs of overheating, much less burning. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Having worked in 2 of these fields, NASA & Army, I can confirm benefits.

     

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 2
  8. Orange combines multiple ground-wires for different circuits together. Corrosions here can cause ground-loops where each circuit may have different voltage drops from batt +pos. Results in a 3rd circuit that flows the difference. On newer models, Honda went to ring-terminals and bolted them together for better contact-pressure and keep out corrosion.

     

    Only problem with solder is if you use so much it wicks out past end of terminal. That's only case where it's different than crimp-only. Straw-man really as no one uses that much. And physical loads on wires don't even come close to fatigue-limits (except in case of large transitions). Just a little dab at tip to seal wire-end from moisture being wicked into wire and causing green/black wire disease. And fills air-space between strands to improve conductivity with much larger contact surface area.

     

    Most of wiring issues I've seen are from using generic crimps with generic squashing crimpers. Transition from small wire to large crimp causes much larger stress-riser than soldered connections.


    uc?export=download&id=1r0wMpb1IvRlVWEA2J

     

    In order for crimps to even come close to their potential (like used in those comparisons), you need a matching crimping frame+die +terminals system. Where die generates a W or hexagon shaped crimp which squeezed OD inwards to remove as much air from between wire-strands as possible. But not so much squeeze it takes metal of terminal past plastic/yield limits. I use these to build my harnesses

    https://www.newark.com/c/connectors/connector-tools-accessories/crimp-tool-dies?brand=amp-te-connectivity

     

    To make proper crimps like these:

    uc?export=download&id=1HAS38doAjPsZb9VTpuc?export=download&id=15K5-u79va7Ljhkyk_

     

    Then if you add a little dab of solder to seal end, but not so much you see it flow past crimp into strain-relief, that's even better! 🙂

     

    Here's guidelines to making good crimps. Without proper matching crimper die+terminal system, best to back it up with solder.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rl2jsBrLlF_GMpFynaE21_X0bIfOdWr3/view?usp=sharing

    • Thanks 3
  9. 7 minutes ago, WDIV said:

    I just did the visual inspection and shook the piss out of my headstock (with the key on and a jumper to ground on the thermistor plug) trying to get it to pop. I guess next is to throw the volt meter on and let that watch it for me.

     

    52820382309_c1db02eb67_c.jpg

    No need to watch. First measure resistance to chassis-ground of fan power-wire.  If it's not OL/infinite ohms, you've got short on that wire. Ends up drawing more power than just fan when termo-switch closes.

    • Like 1
  10. No need to swiss-cheese, just have open-space at ends to expose internal volume. The caps on yours is so spacer actually stops spring instead of dropping into centre and doing nothing (because pipe chosen was too small in diameter). Factory config uses wide washer in that place.

    uc?export=download&id=1we5PTW9FVsBtaOMwQ

     

    Spacers don't do anything but provide a stop for spring. Lower the stop (longer spacer) the more preload spring has and this lifts front-end. Shorter spacer lets spring relax more and has less preload and lowers front-end. 

     

    For example, factory spacer and spring on top of this photo.

    uc?export=download&id=1-2nGwnxYLd83fA4h2
     

    Stiffer upgrade spring on bottom has thicker and fewer coils, resulting in shorter overall length. Just need to keep overall total length same since fork is still same length. So make custom PVC spacer to result in exact same total length as stock.

     

    Softer springs have more coils and are longer. So to fit them, you need shorter spacer to give more room for spring with same overall length as stock. Basically going in opposite direction as above.

    • Like 2
  11. My '86 RC24 has 96K-miles on original clutch. I installed stiffer Barnett springs about 10-yrs in. I only use clutch for taking off in 1st, and downshifting. Haven't measured, but I suspect it's about 50% worn, going from mileage on clutches on my other bikes. I also have most of original OEM rear brake-pads too.

  12. I'm trying to find photo I saw and don't know where it is.

    • VFR was in someone's garage
    • on rear seat, it had one of those double-decker shogun-style rear wings you see on back of Japanese cars
    • probably temporarily put there while they moved stuff around

     

    Does someone have copy of this photo or have link to thread where it's posted

    Thanks!

     

     

  13. 6 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

    There is a way to see what your bike is like without the closed loop mode with the O2 sensors, discovered by that other forum.  Turn ignition key "ON" and then kill switch "ON."  Let pump prime (whining noise).  Turn ignition "OFF."

     

    Turn ignition "ON" and hit starter before the whining noise and dash light/pattern ends.  For one reason or another, this puts the bike in a completely open loop mode without the O2 sensors, riding to a fixed map.  

     

    Haven't ridden a 5th gen enough to know if it's noticeable, but a shitty thing about the 6th gen is there is clearly open loop logic on top of the closed loop control, where even with eliminators it will still dial back mixture in a noticeable way.  Whether the key/switch dance is an intentional bypass built in by Honda, or a flaw that faults out that logic, we don't know.  But it works.

    Thanks for info!

    Wait... if you remove O2-sensors on 6th-gen, it still pulls back mixtures?

    How does it know engine's running too rich?

    How does it know how much fuel to pull?

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